
£93 

Copyright^ L 



COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT. 




Lody 



Mr. Frank C. Clark 



40,000 MILES 
AROUND THE WORLD. 



A PERSONAL NARRATIVE OF THE EXPERIENCES 

AND IMPRESSIONS OF AN ENERGETIC 

TRAVELLER WHO CROSSED 

THE EQUATOR AND THE 

ARCTIC CIRCLE IN 

THE TOUR. 



BY 
GEO. T. BUSH, 
BELLEFONTE, 
PENNA. 



Copyrighted 1911, 
By 
GEO. T. BUSH. 



K° 



*Vi 



lb 



Howard Hustler Print, 
Howard, Pa. 






©CI. A 2976 18 



PREFACE. 

This account of my trip of Forty Thousand Miles Around the 
World was thought of and written after my return home at the re- 
quest of many friends and is a personally written history of my own 
experiences and deductions. I trust it will prove of interest to many, 
it is written more to give one an idea of what the world is, in run- 
ning around it, and gi v e many hints to those who anticipate journ- 
eys of the kind in the future; than to give just a recital of the regu- 
lar objects of interest which can be found in many guide books of 
all sorts. 

It was written mostly from memory and during odd hours, and I 
hope the many inaccuracies will be pardoned. I dedicated the book 
to Mr. Frank Clark, for the simple reason it all was 
made possible only through him to have such a fine time, and see 
so much in such an easy and comfortable manner and at a low cost. 
He accomplished something that has never been done before though 
it has been tried many times, and spared no expense to give his pas- 
senger tourists an enjoyable time as far as lay within his power. 

Had I known what the task would be before I began, I would 
never have started the story, but have tried to accomplish some- 
thing despite the many difficulties that have arisen and trust it will 
be interesting, and appreciated for what it is worth. Pardon the typo- 
graphy, through unavoidable circumstances. 

The illustrations are from photographs taken by myself and 
members of the cruise for which thanks are here given for their as- 
sistance. I also wish to thank Dr. Phillips, Mr. H. H. Herschberger, 
Mr. Junkin and others for some of the helps given me in the way of 
data etc. GEO. T. BUSH, 

Sept. 1911. , Bellefonte, Pa. 



THIS BOOK IS RESPECTFULLY 
DEDICATED TO MY FRIEND Mr. FRANK 
C. CLARK THROUGH WHOSE ENERGY 
AND FORESIGHT THE FORE PART OF 
THE TOUR WAS MADE SO PLEASANT. 



CONTENTS. 

•Chapter. Page, 

I Westward Ho, 1 

II Off on the Pacific, 6 

III Honolulu, 12 

IV Yokohoma 20 

V Tokio, Kamakura and Nikko 25 

VI Kobe. Osaka and Kioto, 31 

VII Inland Sea and Nagasaki, 38 

VIII Canton and Hongkong, 45 

IX The Phillipines, 52 

X Borneo and Across the Equato r, 59 

XI Java and Singapore, 67 

XII Rangoon in Burma. 73 

XIII Calcutta, 78 

XIV Custom and caste in India » 86 

XV Ceylon, 90 

XVI Agra and The Taj Mahal, 98 

XVII Bombay and the Red Sea 107 

XVIII Cairo, 113 

XIX Jerusalem, 123 

XX Jaffa to Constantinople 131 

XXI Athens to Naples, 138 

XXII Rome to Venice, 143 

XXIII Venice to Oberammagau 149 

XXIV Vienna to Stockholm, 155 

XXV The Land of the Midnight Sun, 160 

XXVI Copenhagen to London via Holland and Paris, .. 165 

XXVII Around Great Britain and Home, 169 

Poems 174 

Personals. Notes and Lists, etc. 177 

Roster, 184 



"WESTWARD HO" 

CHAPTER i. 

The narrative will run from the time of leaving home on 
Jan. 15, 1910, with snow two feet deep on the ground, traveling west- 
ward across the United States, passing through of three winters and 
summers in the same season of the year, covering 40000 miles of sea 
and land, until my return home six months and ten days later. 

I tarried a couple of days in Pittsburg visiting friends and say- 
ing adieus to many of my Masonic acquaintances, and from there went 
to Cincinnati in an uneventful trip, and spent the day there with a 
friend, leaving there over the Louisville and Nashville road for two 
nights and a day trip to New Orleans. The events of that trip were 
not very interesting, except the stalling of the train during the 
night a couple of times, and the leaving of a poor brakeman, who 
had been sent back to flag; to hoof it back to the nearest station be- 
cause the train, after it finally got started could not stop to pick him 
up again. 

Birmingham, Alabama, the iron city of the South was passed 
through early in the evening, and was as interesting a sight as Pitts- 
burg only on a smaller scale; the fiery glows from the furnaces anil 
slag piles, making the country around about look like a small section 
of Dante's Inferno. The valuable feature of the iron industry then 
is the fact that the iron ore, limestone and coal, are all within a 
short distances of the furnace they using their own small tram 
loads to bring the raw materials to the furnaces. The 

city had several high office buildings. It seemed strange to see 
large twelve and fifteen story office buildings in any city in the south 
and shows the wonderful progress and growth that the south has 
made in commercial lines in the last decade or so. 

We arrived at New Orleans the next morning at seven after cross- 
ing through the swamps of the extensive Mississippi delta, and the tour 
of looking over that interesting city, of which there is none other 
like it in the United States began. Trade must be done on the slow 
3asy going plan of eat, drink, talk and visit for awhile before business 
xs thought of and the person who tries to change that order 
of things and rush it through, will find himself coming out at the 
shorter end of the horn as far as business is concerned. 

The things of most interest to me were the old shops with their 
stacks of curious, all claimed to be ancient, but many of them mod- 
ern, relics of the Spanish and Andrew Jackson days, the fine oil 



paintings, dishes, flags, arms, furniture, documents of various sorts 
^11 of historical interest. The old slave market in what was once a 
iiiagnificient building called the Hotel Royal, later Hotel St. Louis, 
xiow a ruin, where probably Uncle Tom of Harriet Beecher Stowe's 
-animus uook, was auctioned off to Simon Legree on the very block 
/-hat is slill intact, which is shown to visitors as the original one that 
nas been there for ninety years. The Hotel was built in 1816 and en- 
lenained many noted people. The narrow streets in the quarter of 
me city known as the French quarter copied after the narrow streets 
oi Paris bring the old parts of Paris to mind and more vividly so 
when you hear the French gab ble on every hand, though many, 
principally the younger element, can now speak English also. Oth- 
or things of interest were the French market, and particularly the 
cemeteries of 3New Orleans, the old ones, very much delapidated but 
oi great interest on account of their being built above the ground. 
i'he bodies were put into oven like vaults built in the low buildings 
and Mansoleums and around the thick walls. I noticed the tombs 
ui several Penna. people, soldiers and sailors who had died on ships 
and of fever during the war of 1812 and one in particular of a Lan- 
caster county, Penna., born lady who had lived to the age of 125 
years, and in that fever stricken country. 

There are many other points of interest of the usual order in 
cities, in the nature of public buildings, which it is not necessary to 
'-numerate here. I visited a commandery meeting of Knights Temp- 
lar on Friday evening the 21st and met many of the business and 
professional people of the city and spent a very pleasant evening; on 
Saturday evening a meeting of the Nobles of the Mystic Shrine at 
which thirty-five candidates were initiated and a merry time was 
had until nearly three A. M., before the gathering finally dispersed. 
There was many visitors present from various states and we were 
royally entertained and received. They were getting ready to receive 
the annual meeting of the Imperial Shrine which was to take place 
m April, and the slogan used, which was printed in large red letters 
L>n placards all over the city was "Glad U Kom". My friend Free- 
iand Kendrick of Lulu Temple, Philadelphia was elected into the line 
jf succession for Potentate of the United States at that session in 
April. He was also present on the evening of our session. 

The next day. Sunday at noon we took the train on the Southern 
Paciffic railway, and was ferried across the Mississippi for the 
long ride across the continent westward. When we arrived at New 
Ibernia, Louisanna, the train was an hour and a half late and we heard 
the sad news that a traveling man who had been waiting to take the 
train had been stabbed to death by a rum crazed nigger running a 
muck, showing how a little thing may change a life, for if the train 
had of been on time he would have been aboard and his life would 
have been saved. The train ride was interesting through this coun- 
try on account of the great Cyprus brake, that fine southern lumber 



that is used so much down there, and also the sugar cane fields with 
their railroads and mills dotting the flat landscape for miles around. 

The next point of interest was San Antonio, Texas, now a large 
prosperous city, containing the famous "Alamo" of Davy Crocket 
fame,kept in a good state of presevation as is possible. The train 
waited a couple of hours there, so time was had to visit the inter- 
esting relic of the days when Texas fought for her Independence. 

The train then sped on through the great veldt of western Texas 
with its sand and sage brush, to El ]\i:>o on the bordfrland of Mex- 
ico, a prosperous city, very much American now, with its huge smelt- 
ers of the metalic ores from neighboring states, Ten minutes ride 
takes you to Juarez across the bolder into old Mexico where bull 
fights take i>:noe, murders are often committed, and is as entirely dif- 
ferent as could be from El Paso. Gambling of all sorts flourishes and 
the mea: sbops sell you the beef of the bulls and horses killed in 
the bull fights. 

From El Paso the train runs across southern New Mexico and Ari- 
zona, a small part of it through some pretty mountain scenery along 
The Rio Grande River, over bridge 321 feet high and 2100 feet long, 
until it reaches the tableland where you get the sand storms and those 
marvelous mirages that have been the death of so many weary trav- 
elers. They lead him into the desert waste never to return alive, his 
bones finding a lonely grave covered over by the next sand storm 
that comes along. The mirages we saw were very beautiful, looking 
like pretty lakes of blue water with trees and islands, and a little 
imagination helped you to see people and houses also, a 
truly pretty picture to draw the weary wanderer on to his death. 
Between the windstorms and the suction of the train, the obser- 
vation platform on the rear of the Sunset express often had from six 
inches to a foot of sand on it. We were very glad to finally reach Cal 
ifornia which we did on Wednesday the 23rd passing that famous Sal- 
ton sea, 60 by 90 miles in extent; that body of land below sea level 
that the Southern Pacific R. R. Co. had inadverently turned the Colo- 
rado river into, and for a year or so could not stop it. It has final- 
ly been stopped and it is now again gradually drying up, in no place is 
it very deep, but it covers a great many square miles of land most of 
which was desert before, so that no great damage was done. 

We arrived at Los Angeles, California, in the afternoon and spent 
until the following Monday with friends visiting that interesting and 
growing city with its typical western hustle and the beautiful sur- 
rounding country, with its square miles of deciduous fruits and other 
tropical fruits and plants, that is making a garden spot out of that 
portion of the United States. There would be a much greater show- 
ing here but the railroad trusts have that country throttled and bound 
hand and foot. Until the country wakes up and takes those matters 
in hand the growth will be only a small portion of what this garden 
spot might become with irrigation and reasonable R. R. rates. All 
the way from and including New Orleans to Los Angeles we had 



fine lale spring weather, trees and flowers were in full bloom, or- 
anges were being picked and only a week before winter and snow in 
the north we now had summer, but that was soon to change again for 
leaving Lo& Angeles on Monday the 31st it became cold and some 
skiffs of snow, and an overcoat was very acceptable in San Francisco. 
While in Los Angelos we took many interesting automobile rides 
including the famous Busch Sunken Gardens, also the sea beach. 
which has quite a nice but small Atlantic City, there named Venice, 
One particular thing visited that was interesting, was the large os- 
Lrich farm where they have several hundred fine birds, many of 
them very large, weighing three hundred pounds, and the more fa- 
mous ones named after prominent people. There is quite an indus- 
try, many hands being employed, mostly girls and Japs cleaning and 
scouring and dying feathers, there are many beautiful ones. This is 
only a branch farm here, one back in the country having, it is said, 
two thousand birds. The finest feathers called plumes come from 
the wing and only a few from a bird, the birds are plucked every 
three months, the feathers growing very rapidly. 

The old mission church built in 1781 is also very interesting with 
curious paintings all round. The one old main altar was brought 
from Italy and is very well preserved. 

Their new park, that is being built in Los Angelos, promises to be 
a fine one in a few years. At the base of the hill on which the park 
is situated is the famous pigeon farm with what is said to be a million 
pigeons flying around, we were told that it takes a couple of car loads 
of grain a week to feed them. 

I went up the coast line of th e Southern Pacific passing the spot 
where so many of my Reading Shriner friends had been killed in 
that awful wreck, one of whom was so well known in Bellefonte be- 
ing a relative of Mr. Keller, namely: George Hagerman, of Reading, 
Pa. For quite a distance the coast line is rugged and rather pret- 
ty- It is full days ride from Los Angelos to San Francisco. 

Not having been in San Francisco since the Earthquake and hav- 
ing remembered it very well before I was very much surprised and 
pleased to see what a beautiful city had crept from out of the ruins 
there was hardly a familiar spot left of the flat quarter of the city 
at all, but was thickly rebuilded with many handsome business 
structures. The fire still showed the dreadful havoc it had created 
in the many vacant lots and ruins that lay on the hills surrounding 
that district but it was also dotted with new structures and no 
doubt in a few short years every trace of that dreadful catastrophe 
will have disappeared and San Francisco will have greatly benefit- 
ed. Nearly all the new structures are both fireproof and earthquake 
proof, steel construction having shown its ability to withstand the 
earthquakes in the few buildings that was undamaged by the shock 
but partially destroyed by the intense heat of the inflamable build- 
ings that adjoined them. 



The old evil smelling narrow streets of China Town are gone and 
in its place the new China Town has well built fireproof buildings 
mostly of Chinese architecture. Whether the many under ground 
passages of the old Chinatown, are in existance, in the new, is a 
problem, but it is much safer there now than it was then. Guides 
show you a few points of interest but there is nothing thrilling in 
the present day excursion. A new dive quarter has sprung up in an 
other section of the city named, "The Barbary Coast" where all 
the dance and drink halls thrive, but a person can go through them 
in comparative safety and not bernolested, except by the girls, if he 
minds his own business. The Gold-Gate Park trip is the one of most 
interest and is a very pretty ride around by the sight seeing trolley, 



CHAP TER II. 

OFF ON THE PACIFIC. 

On the morning of the 5th of February a suppressed excitement 
was noticed for that was the day we all were to sail on our long voy- 
age, at 2 o'clock in the aftternoon The hustle began right after break- 
fast, people loaded up the busses and cabs and hurried away to the 
wharf to look after the baggage and get it put away, say the long 
farewells, etc., The crowd began collecting about ten o'clock in the 
morning and kept increasing until it was conservatively estimated that 
when the "Cleveland" finally pulled not there were over fifteen thou- 
sand people to cheer her off, with seven hundred and fifty-two tour- 
ists on board who were leaving the shores of the U. S. A., for from 
five months to several years, some never to return again in life. 

The vessel was stuck pretty deep in the mud being one of the lar- 
gest draught vessels that had ever been in the harbor, the captain 
after trying quietly a couple of times to move her ordered full speed 
astern and then the mud began to churn and make the water like 
molasses, and in a short time thevessel moved slowly backward from 
her mud berth and was soon out in the bay and turned westward 
towards the beautiful Golden Gate, through which we passed in a 
eouple of hours toward our first stop Honolulu, nearly seven days 
journey away. 

Not very long after the Golden Gate was passed quite a swell was 
encountered, and the boat as Iargeas she was began to roll and plunge 
and before very long a heavy side wind also came up, and then 
the misery began for most of the passengers, a few of us were not 
sick in the least, but for two or three days the dining table was not a 
popular place at all, sometimes not more than two or three out of 
our table of ten appearing, and many tables had nobody at all at them, 

"I would like to quote with the kind permission of my friend P. 
S. Junkin, of Creston, Iowa, the following: 

The first day called up gravest thoughts that made me nervous heart- 
ed. 

The next day called up memories of friends from whom I parted. 

The third day called to mind the land where one is safely carted. 

The fourth day called up everything I'd eaten since I started." 



The following poems apropos of Uie trip across the Pacific was 
written and read by Mr. Loren A Sherman at a Travellers Club meet- 
ing- 

OUT UN i tiE PACIFIC. 

Out, through the rocL hung Golden Gate, 

Our ship sails wiih its human freight. 
Astern, faint in the twilight ray. 

The hillset city fades away; 
And at its farthest western strand 

Good byes we speak to our loved land. 
Thus, launched upon a trackless sea, 

A world encircling company; 
While waves run high and many feel 

Seclusion suited to their weal. 
Soon, southward merrily we go 

Where softened tropic breezes blow. 
Till, fair to our enraptured eyes. 

Hawia's mountain islands rise; 
A banner no injustice mars. 
These gems, set in a Summer sea, 

Give welcome to us royally. 
In mellow airs, perfumes with flowers. 

We while away the fleeting hours, 
Until, too soon, we sail away 

For quaint Japan and far Cathay. 

As he states the chronology is not exactly accurate but the de- 
scription w r as to the letter, of most of those on board. The boat- 
was perfectly seaworthy but just tossed and rolled enough to frigh— 
ten many. In a few days many of the passengers were able to get a 
round and begin to make each others acquaintance, for it was to be 
really a big house party of nearly four months duration and the more 
you were acquainted the more pleasant the voyage would be. The 
ship was chartered by Frank C. Clark of New York, the one who has 
for fifteen years conducted so successfully the fine Mediterranean 
cruises, and was a stupendous undertaking involving the handling of 
several millions of dollars. The great steamship companies and oth- 
er tourists agencies have tried time and again to carry a specially 
chartered ship for tourists around the w r orld, but have failed, and it 
i vmainod for Mr. Clark, the king of them all, to do so for the first 
time successfully. 

The ordinary tours of the world are in small parties and have none 
<>f the conveniences and luxuries of a great steamship fixed up spec- 
ially for that purpose, doing away with all baggage and landing troub- 
les and the many changes required in all sorts of vessels. 

Mr. Clark did all he could to make everybody as comfortable as pos 
sible all through the ship; to take 750 people from their homes all 



over the United States, nearly ev(ry state and nearly every condi- 
tion being represented, around the world, land them at the different 
places, give the carriage, rickshaw and other rides, visiting all points 
of interest in the places visited as well as many inland trips, keeping 
them where possible at hotels, the best on shore, providing all the 
guides etc., and bring all through satisfied was indeed a wonderful 
undertaking and worthy of great commendation. On board there 
was not a day passed that there was not something going on, card 
parties, lectures, experience meetings, dances, etc., something to en- 
tertain all the time. 

As there was only seating capacity for four hundred people in 
the two dining rooms the meals were served in two sittings each, 
the breakfasts 7;30 and 8;30, the two lunches 12 and 1 o'clock, and 
the evening dinners 5:30 and 7 o'clock respectively, while at 
eleven A. M. bouillion and salt wafers, and at three P. M. hot or 
cold tea and cakes, and then the night lunch of sandwiches,. 

A little German Band played on deck in the mornings, and alter- 
nated in the dining rooms in the evenings, and a very fine orchestra 
played in the ladies parlor in the afternoon and for the entertain- 
ments in the evenings. 

The officers and crew numbered about four hundred and fifty, so 
that it made a small town population, of about twelve hundred souls 
on board. The large majority of the officers and crew tried their 
best to make everything comfortable and pleasant, as possible to do, 
for such a large lot of people in such a small space, as it seemed, 
but to which all soon adjusted themselves. There were six decks let- 
tered A. B. G. D. E. F. ,and a top deck with an awning covering be- 
sides, E. and F. were down near water line, parts or all the oth- 
ers were open at some points on the vessel. But as large as all 
these decks were, when all the party had steamer chairs, they were 
pretty well filled up. 

There were two smoking rooms and three parlors, which in the 
main was plenty, for as we soon got in the tropics nearly all wish- 
ed to be outside most of the time. A fine steam laundry was equip- 
ped on the ship, the only traveling one of its kind in the world. 

Two rooms were given us for dark rooms and answered the pur- 
pose very well and enabled many to do all their photographic work, 
there being a great deal done on board the ship. The cabins were 
mostly all small some of them being but about 5X7 feet in size and 
these contained two bunks one above the other, a washstand, and a 
closet, so that generally only one person could dress at a time with 
any degree of comfort. The berths were about two feet wide and six 

and a half feet long. Electric fans were distributed all over the 
ship and had much to do in making it comfortable in the tropics. 

To show the necessity of what a large lot of provisions was needed 
on a cruise of this kind I will give below a part of what was taken on 
at San Francisco besides a large quantity that was already on the 
ship not having been used up of the Eastward cruise. 180,000 pounds 

8 



of fresh meat, 20,000 pounds of poultry, 8,500 pounds of fish, 53,- 
000 pounds of butter, 350,000 eggs, 3 carloads of California oranges, 
4 carloads of grape fruit, 1 carload of lemons, 2 carloads of potatoes, 
8 tons of sugar, 15,000 quarts of fresh milk, 11,000 quarts of ice 
cream, 110 tons of dried fruits 43,000 quart cans of preserved 
fruits, 15,000 pounds of crackers, and minor quantities of other stuff 
together with 100 tons of ice and 3200 tons of water, it being cheap- 
er to buy water than to make it on the ship which could be done 
in an emergency from sea water with the condensers. 

This will give you a little idea of the enormous undertaking of a 
thing of this kind and the requir ments for a long trip besides the 
taking on at the various ports of fresh meats, fish, fruit and vege- 
tables. 

I will not go into details about the big feature places of the dif- 
ferent towns we were in as they are described in all sorts of guide 
and travel books, unless it is someihhig of especial merit. 

Having knowledge of photograph} and having my camera along 
was already interested in the dark rooms and on Tuesday the 8th of 
February posted a notice for all the camera fiends to meet in the 
dining room, which they did to th€ number of about sixty. I stated 
the object of the meeting was to form a Camera Club to control tin- 
use of the dark rooms and for mutual aid and assistance for the 
ameteurs, and for the purpose of having meetings and lectures etc. 

A temporary organization was formed I being elected chairman, 
and a committee appointed to draft bylaws rules and to report a per- 
manent organization etc., on Thursday, at which meeting I was elected 
President, and Mr. William Donnelly of Calgary, Canada, Sec. The 
total enrollment was about one hundred and thirty, and talks on all 
sorts of photograph subjects were made at the various meetings prin- 
cipally by Dr. E. H. Van Patton of Dayton Wash. Dr. VanWagen- 
en of Newark, N. J. John Withers of Jersey City, New Jersey, and 
Geo. T. Bush of Belief onte, Pa. A permanent aid committee was ap- 
pointed to whom all in trouble could come and get the troubles fixed. 
and was of great value to a great many of the amateurs on board. 
The Club was called the four C's, standing for Clark's Cruise 
Camera Club and at Yokohama I had neat little bandages of silk 
ribbon printed with four C's and Cleveland 1910 printed on, not be- 
ing able to get buttons, and gave one to each member of the Club. 
Many meetings were held all through the trip with a good attendance 
at each one, and all said they were benefited to some extent or 
other. 

I also called a meeting of the Pennsylvanians on board there be- 
ing about fifty, it was the first state club formed more to get our- 
selves grouped for reception at Manilla and for the purpose of get- 
ting acquainted with your own state people. A few meetings were 
held for the sociability sake. Mr Geo. Bush was elected Pres., and 
Mr. Charles Shelmire of Philadelphia Sec, I also obtained a little 
ribbon badcre with the word Penna. C. C. A. W. and 1910 the initials 



being for Clark's Cruise Around World and gave to the members 
for identification purposes. 

Mr. Clark requested me to act as chairman of the Dance Com- 
mittee, and to select a committee of about ten members which I did, 
the first dance was held Friday night the 11th on the wide B deck 
just before we landed at Honolulu. The deck was very beautifully 
decorated with signal flags, bunting, and colored electric lights, and 
with the handsomely dressed ladies made a very pretty picture. The 
ship's people put oat flake on the deck, and it was not the best or 
cleanest thing imaginable you may be sure. The German Band on 
board played a rather poor time for American dancers, but we 
guessed they did the best they could do, and we enjoyed it any- 
how dancing for about two hours, lemonade and cakes being passed 
around by the stewards. I procured at Honolulu a good quantity of 
Boric Acid and used that on the deck afterwards with much better 
success, and if the slight rolling and leaning of the ship had at 
times been prevented, we could not have asked for anything better, 
except the time of the band which would insist in playing fast 
waltzes and slow two steps, the reverse of what we dance, and 
what we generally expect of the Germans. 

The first event on board was held on Monday night the 7th be- 
ing a Progressive Euchre Party given by Mrs. Frank Clark and was 
attended by about one hundred and fifty despite the still rough 
internal feeling of some on the boat. It was a very enjoyable affair 
and passed off pleasantly for all, Mrs. Clark having five each very 
nice ladies and gentlemen's prizes. I acted as master of ceremonies for 
her in giving the rules and directions and gathering and verifying 
the winners which had to be done in such a large crowd by asking 
for the highest scores. 

Services were held both morning and evenings on Sundays on board 
the ship, the different ministers alternating. The most interesting 
were Rev. Dr. Philips, of Binghampton, N. Y. who always held a large 
audience, and Rev. Dr. Lorenz of New York city who was a very 
polished speaker. One minister on board who should get mention 
particularly was the gentleman we familairly called "Parson Uzzel" 
being the Rev. Thos. Uzzel of Denver Col., who has done such a 
world of good among the slums of that wicked city, and who was 
one of the right hand men of Judge Ben Lindsay the famous juvenile 
court man. His sermons always attracted a large audience as he 
spoke from the heart, and very forcibly, with exceedingly plain en- 
glish as he would use to his home charges, and he would have you 
laughing one minute and crying the next so forcible were his talks 
and picture sermons as you might call them. 

All these details are gone into to try and give you some idea of 
the life on the ship. One thing I forgot to mention was the grill 
room in the rear of the ship where, should you get tired of the din- 
ing room table d'hote meals you could go there and on the payment 
of only 25 cents for the service, be served with a very nice steak and 

10 



baked potatoes, or chicken, or a chop all helping to relieve mono- 
tony on some of the long voyages between the different places. 

A bugle blew the call for meals and on Sunday morning you were 
awakened with a horn quartette playing "Nearer my God to Thee," 
that was the way you knew it was Sunday and to put on your best 
bib and tucker if you wished, otherwise it was hard to distinguish 
one day from another on the ship, or on land, as there did not seem 
to be any difference between that and other days, in the many dif- 
ferent countries visited. i 



il 



CHAPTER III. 

HONOLULU. 

We drew into the beautiful harbor of Honolulu on 
Saturday morning early and was met by a boat loaded with a re- 
ception committee of the town and a native string orchestra that 
played the most delightful music accompanied by the singing of 
those pretty plaintive Hawaian song they all being native Hawaians, 
each one decorated with a "leis' around their neck. "Leis" are com 
posed of flowers of all colors and kinds with the stem taken 
off and strung like a string of beads to hang around the neck or fast- 
en on the hat. As soon as the customs and quarantine duties were 
attended to, they were permitted to come on board and a goodly 
number of Hawaian girls with theirarms hanging full of the "leis" 
came on board and proceeded to hang the garlands over the necks 
of the passengers with their greeting for welcoming visitors. I met 
Mr. James McCandless as one of representatives of the Shriners 
and who is an honorary member of my temple "Jaffa" of Altoona, 
Pa., he being a member of Aloha Temple at Honolulu. He was ac- 
companied by Mr. Robert Breckons the potentate of that Temple and 
is the district attorney for the territory- 'They immediately had me 
to corral all the Shriners on board and as soon as we docked at the 
wharf, which had about two thousand people down to greet us, we 
were hurried off to special automobiles while the other passengers 
boarded street cars and our trip of sight seeing around that beau- 
tiful island began. It certainly is a paradise and no one can blame 
another for wishing to go there to live, a fine climate all the 
year around. 

I would like to quote here from Mark Twain his short but express- 
ive impression of these beautiful isles: "The loveliest fleet of is- 
lands that lie anchored in any ocean. No alien land in all the world 
has any deep, strong charm for me but that one; no other land could 
so longingly and beseechingly haunt me sleeping and waking through 
half a life time, as that one has done. Other things leave me but 
it abides; other things change, but it remains the same. For its 
balmy airs are always blowing, its summer seas flashing in the sun; 
the pulsing of its surf beat is in my ear; I can see its garlanded 
crags, its leaping cascades, its plump palms drowsing by the shore; 
its remote summits floating like islands above the cloud rack; I can 
feel the spirit of its woodland solitudes; I can hear the splash of 

12 



its brooks; in my nostrils still lives the breath of flowers that per- 
ished twenty years ago." 

That is the impression it ereat d on most all of us though but few 
if any of us could express it in such simple sweet language. 

We wore first taken in the aut( to visit one of the largest sugar 
cane factories in the world on a plantation of about eleven thous- 
and acres where the cane is let grow for eighteen months and ac- 
quires a height of about eleven feet. It is planted at different times 
so that there is always some ripe and ready to cut, and the harvest- 
ing goes on the year around. The plantation is intersected all over 
with a minature railroad and fron the time the cane is cut in the 
fields and loaded on the cars, until it comes out bagged as unrefined 
sugar ready to load on the cars for shipment to the vessels, it is 
not touched by hand. It is truly a wonderful sight to see hundreds 
of tons of sugar come out daily in this big plant and not a hand to 
touch it from start to finish. The process is a very interesting one 
but it would take up much space to describe it in detail. From there 
we visited some beautiful country homes with their magnificient trop- 
ial gardens, palms everywhere and some of them reaching sixty feet 
in the air. The roads are well built and well kept. 

PThe finest picture on the island is unsurpassed in the whole world 
without a doubt. It is called the Pali and is reached by a fine wind- 
ing road up through a valley between the mountains when all of a 
sudden there bursts into view a magnificient picture, the road 
abruptly ends in a turn around, and the cliff falls away about 
sheer one thousand feet, and in a massive semicircular amphithea- 
tre about six miles deep and ten miles across, with the high moun- 
lains bounding it, is a well cultivated valley, the diameter of this 
semicircular valley is the blue ocean with the waves beating on 
rocks and sand. This seashore e. tends for that whole ten miles 
width, making an impressive and beautiful picture, that ever rests 
in the memory of our visions, and it is made more interesting by the 
tale; that the old king Kamehameha when he first conquered the isles 
from the tribes that then inhabited it finally drove the islanders 
up this valley and right off over the cliff thus exterminating near- 
ly the whole tribe. Honolulu has one of the finest hotels in the 
world, called the Alexander Young being very modern in every respect 
We lunched at the old Royal Hawaian, built in tropical style, 
with wings and cottages and ma sive porches, and its pretty gar- 
den, and the Royal Hawaian Band playing all the time during the 
meals in the beautiful gardens surrounding the hotel. 

In the afternoon we were taken to Wakakai beach about four miles 
down, all the way was lined with fine cottages of wealthy Americans 
and retired army men who have fallen in love with this beautiful 
spot. Several fine beach hotels ar< there with well kept cafes etc. 

On arrival at the beach, a big roast was going on with all sorts 

13 



of tropical fruits, and vegetables, and shell fish, things that would 
go together being steamed and baked in a huge heap with hot 
stones. 

The sports that were run off for our edification were very interest- 
ing, besides rowing races for girls and boys and the swimming and 
diving, the most interesting was what is called surf riding at which 
the Hawaians are very expert, they take a large slab board and go 
way out beyond the breakers and start toward the shore with the 
tide that had to be coming in, they stand up on this board balancing 
themselves with a light pole and come shoreward at a great rate 
of speed getting faster as they come in, being brought by the waves, 
until it is estimated that close to land they are going thirty to forty 
mlies an hour and are thrown high on the beach, the expert ones 
do it finely, but the tumbles are mu:y uid sometimes dangerous, for 
the unskilled have many bad falls. 

They have an aquarium down near the beach, though small has 
the most beautiful collection of oddities in the fish line I have ever 
seen, every color in the rainbow and every shape seems to be repre- 
sented. 

Later in the afternoon Governor Frear and ex-Pres., Dole gave us 
a reception in a pavilion near the beach. They are both very genial 
gentlemen and much interested in the Hawaian Islands and their 
growth and prosperity. 

Another place we visited was the new government works at Pearl 
Harbor, a large lake inland about ten miles from the ocean, to which 
access is had by a deep torturous channel through which the largest 
battleship can go with ease, and the lake itself large enough and 
deep enough to hold two navies like ours. It is impregnable from 
the sea and is being made so by extensive fortifications from the 
land side and will become one of the finest naval posts in the world. 
It will be a great protection to the Panama Canal when finished. 

The city of Honolulu is well laid out, good streets in the main, and 
kept pretty clean and healthy, has a good trolley system, is building 
some fine wharves and seems tobe progressive. 

The wealthy people seem to be mostly Americans who own the 
large plantations and industries, but are not large in numbers, the 
greater part of the population being Chinese, Portugese, and the 
natives. There are about five hundred automobiles of the best class 
in the place. 

Diamond Head at the other end of the Island is a very high pro- 
motory that juts out into the sea and is extremely picturesque, there 
are concealed fortifications on it, as it commands the sea for thirty 
miles roundabout, and being but six miles from Honolulu is a pro- 
tection from the high winds as well as from the enemy. 

The fine troop ship, Sheridan came into the adjoining dock on 
the way to the Philipines while we were in the harbor, having the 
Nineteenth infantry and some detached soldiers on board. a fine 
looking lot of youngsters they were but the quartermaster told me 

14 



the first three days out of San Francisco the grub did nut take 
at all, but that when they get over their spell or mal-de-mer they 
made up for lost time in pretty good shape. 

On Saturday night a fine dance was given in honor of our party on 
the beautiful roof garden of the Alexander Young Hotel. Earnesl 
Kaai's fine string orchestra furnished the music and the novelty of 
aecompaning the music with singing by their splendid voices was 
very good. The floor was as smooth as glass and a fine time was 
had dancing until twelve, there being a good many young dancers 
on the ship, there was no trouble in keeping the floor full. 

On Sunday the "Advertiser" one of the city dailies, issued a fine 
Cleveland edition devoting several pages to the Cleveland with pictures 
and sketches and incidents to which 1 fell heir to a piece as fol- 
lows. 
"Extract from Sunday Advertiser Honolulu, Feb. 13th, 1910" 

The Blooming Bush— Some men are born wealthy, some acquire 
wealth and others have wealth thrust upon them. Tis the same with 
other things, such as attention and various honors. George T. Bush, 
of Belief on te, Penna., a member of the Clark tour has had both thrust 
upon him since leaving Frisco town has aquired more and was born 
to the rest. The first day out he was elected President of the new- 
ly created Camera Club which started this life with over a hundred 
members. To this he was born and accepted his position with tin 
grace of a man who has developed plates all his life instead of follow- 
ing the arduous existence of a newspaper man which he is. Later 
he was made Chairman of the dance committee by Frank Clark, a po- 
sition which he acquired through his manifold accomplishments in 
that direction and then Clark made him Chief Announcer. That was 
thrust upon him but with the others he carries his part delicately 
and without boasting. He is a modest man as well as a friend of Jim 
McCandless. Jim McCandless was his host last night:' 

Extract from another part of the edition. "The Shriners are partic- 
ularly happy, that of course refers to the visiting sand travelers who 
were met with open arms by Robert W. Breckons of Aloha Temple 

George Bush of camera dance and announcing abilities is a Shriu 
er of Jaffa Temple and Burgess of Frisco hails from the sandy shores 
of Islam Temple of that budding exposition town". 

The varieties of fruits and nuts number several hundred. I would 
not give them because hardly anybody would take the trouble to 
read the list so extensive is it. 

We left Honolulu on Sunday afternoon about five o'clock and a 
very large crowd was down to bid us farewell, which they did very 
vociferously with bands playing and the waving and shouting of fare- 
wells from our many newly made friends, made it an interesting as 
well as a thrilling sight, one to be remembered. 

It was Feb. 13th and a date not to be forgotten by a couple of el- 
derly ladies on the ship, which m^de a somewhat amusing but a goo< 
thing incident, being a lesson to the tardy and risky ones. These ladies 

15 



ventured to take an automobile ride though they knew the ship was 
to sail at five, which meant five, and of course the auto had to break 
down far ajway from town, but they were picked up in some manner 
and hurried to the wharf just as the lines were cast off and the big 
vessel had slowly began to pull away, then the hysterics began as they 
frantically made appeals to come back, which could not be done with 
out hours of time lost and dangerous work, so Mr. Clark called to the 
agent of the line to put them in a row boat at the end of the wharf 
and the boat would slow up to pick them up out in the bay. This 
was done after considerable trouble they having to climb the long- 
steep steps up the side of the ship while in motion, the lesson was a 
good one, they were always on hand in plenty of time after that. The 
rest of the ships passengers profited thereby, nobody being left at a 
port from that time on. 

Considerable fun was created while in the harbor after leaving the 
wharf, by the native Hawaiian boys around the ship in small boats 
diving for money, they were very expert though not near so much 
so as the little Malays at Singapore. 

Off For Japan. — Then begun the longest water leg of our journey 
without our seeing land, or a ship, the whole twelve days to Yokohoma 
and we settled ourselves down to a couple weeks enjoyment having 
becomes fairly well acquainted by this time, forming in groups or par 
ties that were congenial, and that is the way the acquaintance kept 
up thereafter, In the main these parties and crowds kept together 
and went together on the rest of the trip being people most congen- 
ial with each other, making it very pleasant indeed. 

A couple of days out of Honolulu I called a meeting of the Shrin 
ers on board and presented resolutions thanking the Nobles of Aloha 
Temple for their kind treatment of us at the port, they were ad- 
opted and I as secretary of the Club was ordered to have the same 
suitably engrossed at Yokohoma leaving space to sign the same with 
the name of Temple and home residence, as well as their own signa 
ture, and send them to Aloha Temple at Honolulu when that had been 
accomplished. The resolutions were as follows: 

* * On board the S. S. Cleveland, 

Clark's Cruise Around the World. 

We the undersigned members of the Ancient Order of Nobles of 
the Mystic Shrine on board the Steamship Cleveland on the Westward 
Trip of Clark's Cruise Around the World in meeting assembled do 
hereby unamimously vote that— 

Whereas— The Nobles of Aloha Temple, Honolulu, T. H. did so 
graciously show the great generosity of their hearts in entertaining 
the visiting Nobles on the occasion of the visit of the S. S. Cleveland 
Feb. 12 and 13, 1910— Therefore be it:— 

Resolved:— That we extend our heartfelt thanks to the Nobles of 
Aloha Temple for their earnest successful endeavors in our behalf, 
to make our visit to their beauti ul city a pleasant one and convey 
our best fraternal Greetings, 

Fraternally Signed. 

16 



17 



I had them very beautifully engrossed on parchment at Yokohoma 
ar\! got, them all finally signed before we got to Manila, where I had 
them photographed and each member got a copy, which was a valua- 
ble souvenir, and from Manila I mailed them back to Honolulu and 
on my return home found a letter on my desk from Breckons, Poten- 
tate of Aloha Temple thanking us for the nice souvenir remembr- 
ance which the Temple greatly treasured, and had framed and hung 
in their lodge room. One signer of that paper had already passed a- 
way to the greater temple above. There were thirty-three temples in 
the United States represented and the parchment had forty-eight sig- 
natures to it. 

On Monday night the 14th the Travelers Club meeting was held in 
the main dining room and short talks were made of the experiences 
had at Honolulu at which I spoke for a couple of minutes and I was 
also appointed on a committee to draw up a Marconigram to send 
back to Honolulu expressing thanks from the tourists on the ship for 
their delightful entertainment they had accorded us. -The Travelers 
Club as I stated before is the recounting of incidents and happenings 
etc., that occurred at the previous port and the talks are limited to 
two and three minutes each, so as to give a number a chance. 

Since leaving San Francisco and traveling westward we had to set 
our watches back about forty minutes a day varying with the dis- 
tance and, speed of the ship going westward and when we crossed the 
180 meridian all vessels going west dropped out a whole day from their 
calendar and all going eastward add a day to their calendar to make 
up the differences lost and gained. The day nearest the time we cros- 
sed happened to be Friday the 18th so that all went to bed on Thursday 
night, and did not. get up until Saturday morning though you were 
really only in bed a few hours, a rather funny experience. Many star- 
ted a card game late Thursday and were still playing a little after 
midnight, so that they could literally say that they began playing one 
night on a Thursday and were still playing without stopping on Satur- 
day morning. 

The trip to Yokohoma was filled with card games, both Bridge 
Whist and progressive euchre tournaments, lectures on Japan, etc., I 
acted as master of ceremonies and announcer at the various card 
parties. There were also numerous meetings of the various state 
clubs and the camera club held. 

The ship people gave us a very fine dinner on Washington's 
Birthday, the tables and dining room being decorated, and the menu's 
specially printed ones having a fine portrait of Washington and the 
American flag on them. I forgot to mention there was a fully equipped 
printing office on board with which the menus for every meal were 
printed, as well as any notices etc., that happened to be needed. 

The members of the daughters of the ■ Revolution on board form- 
ed an organization, with the members of the sons of the Revolution 
and the members of the society of the Cincinnati as honorary mem- 
bers. The daughters got up a very nice celebration on the evening 



18 

of Washington's Birthday, in the large dining room it being crowd- 
ed to the doors, and I give the programme below to give you an idea 
of it : 

PROGRAMME. 

Washington's Birthday Celebration on board the Cleveland. 

ORCHESTRA:— Stars and stripes forever. 

ADDRESS: Washington's relation to our country by Judge Bartlet 
Tripp, former Minister to Austria. 

SONG:— The Star Spangled Banner. 

ADDRESS by Mr. W. D. Steele of Mo., Society of the Cincinnatti. 

SOLO By Mrs. C. M. Childs of Vt. 

ADDRESS by Mr. Geo. T. Bush of Pa., representing Son^ of the Rev- 
olution. Subjects-Results of the American Revolution. 

SONG: — Columbia the Gem of the Ocean. 

ADDRESS by Dr. Wm. C. Richardson of Fla., Subject-Our Country. 

ORCHESTRA:— The American Patrol. 

ADDRESS by Mr. Milton McRea of Mich, subjects :-The World's Na- 
tions fused into one. 

SOLO:— Mr. Carl H. Lody— DieWacht am Rhein. 

ADDRESS by Col. Geo. D. Roper of 111. Subject— Our National Flag. 

SONG by AUDIENCE— My Country Tis of Thee. 

SELECTION by Orchestra:— National Airs. 

SONG and CHORUS, by Audience :— Good Night Ladies. 
Mrs. James G. Penn, of Richmond, Virginia and Mrs. James R. 
Mellon, of Pittsburg, Penna, who had been elected respectively Regent 
and Vice Regent of the Clark's Cleveland Chapter as it was known; 
presented every member as well as the honorary members of the kin- 
dred socities a Christmas gift of a beautiful souvenir emblem chap- 
ter pin of gold and blue and white enamel containing a representation 
of the map of the world with a picture of the Cleveland in the centre 
and around the edge, the words, Clark's Cleveland Chapter D. A. R. 
1910. 

This handsome and treasured gift was very much appreciated, 
coming as a surprise, by all who received it. 

A list of officers and members of the Chapter, as well as the hon- 
orary members, appears at the end of the book. Mrs. Clark had very 
neat little souvnir books printed at Yokohoma, and presented each 
member with them. 

As an idea of our dinners I will give below the Washington's Birth 
day dinner which was not much more than we usually had: 

Soup Clermont, Consumme Pated' Italie 
Delices a la Russe 
Salmon Presidente 

Larded Tenderloin of Beef a la Americane 
Sorbet G. H. Munn 
Breast of Turkey Cranberry Sauce 
Salad Compot 

Asparagus, Whipped Butter 
Charlotte a la Carmen 
Cheese Fruit Coffee. 



19 

At the third course of this dinner the lights were lowered and the 
stewards all came in with different figures baked in dough in a 
very thin shell, and colored and lighted up inside with candles making 
a very pretty sight, the orchestra playing the national air and it was 
received with quite a round of applause. 

Lincoln's Birthday also had very pretty menus with extra service. 

The music by the orchestra, and the singing by the choir, were very 
good; there were several fine voices in the choir that had been gotten 
up on ship and they sang for the various church services on Sun- 
day, as well as for the lectures and Travelers club meetings. 

The sea was very rough for a short while before we reached Yoko- 
ma, one wave mounting up over fifty feet, landing on the boat deck 
and flooding the side decks but doing very little damage except the 
ducking of some people who happened to be on that side of the ship. 
Not near so many people succumbed to the rough sea this time, they 
having gotten their sea legs on. Many amusing incidents happened 
through passengers leaving their port holes open during the night, 
and an unusually large wave would strike the ship and come in the 
port holes filling the cabin with water and soaking everybody and ev- 
erything in it. It would keep the stewards busy getting things in 
shape again and the w r ater out of the state rooms. 



o o ~ — ° 



20 



CHAPTER IV. 
YOKOH OMA. 

We arrived at Yokhoma early on the morning of the 25th of Feb. 
and it was an interesting sight to see this magnificant harbor with 
its extensive shipping, the town along the bay in the distance and 
beyond, that fine old mountain Fuiyama with its snow capped top, that 
is so familiar in all Japanese pictures and works of art. Yokohoma 
is a very progressive, new, live commercial city of about three hun- 
dred thousand population with a fine harbor, and breakwater newly 
built, and the government has just finished one long wharf, and is 
building another, where vessels can be loaded eight or ten at a time 
directly from the cars, when we tied up at this fine dock, a Japa- 
nese band on the wharf, as well as the band on the ship was play- 
ing, and quite a large crowd was on the wharf to greet us. The pre- 
liminary custom and health" examinations having been gone through 
we were permitted to land. The large party was divided up into 
smaller ones to go on the various side trips which we were to take 
from Yokohoma, being to Tokio, the capital about twenty miles away, 
Kamakura the old capital with the great bronze statue of Daibutsu 
their Buddha or God and the pretty beach about thirty miles away, 
and to Nikko one hundred and sixty miles away, where nearly all the 
great temples of Japan seem to be situated and is the summer resort 
of the capital, it being nestled among the beautiful mountains of Ja- 
pan, and is always delightfully cool in the summer evenings. 

Parties were kept coming and going from and to all these places 
all the following week until everybody had been at each place. There 
were ten directors with Mr. Clark on the ship, and about thirty well 
informed Japanese guides, who could speak English, some of both 
were with every party. 

On the wharf the party was met by the Mayors af Tokio and Yoko- 
homa, and the officials of the various chambers of commerce of those 
cities, as well as a great number of newspaper representatives. An 
address of welcome was handed to Mr. Clark that was typewritten 
expressing happiness to meet and honor such a distinguished party 
of Americans, and reiterating the friendly spirit between Japan and 
America. It being made the more impressive on account of the hun- 
combe, that had just been appearing before we sailed, in the west- 



21 



era coast papers predicting all sorts of dire things. Mr. Clark hand- 
ed the paper to me and requested me to make the response on be- 
half of the party. which I did speaking of the pleasures of land- 
ing in the country of which we had heard so much, and which we 
so adaptly named the Yankee land of the east and informed them 
that the people of the United States were their friends and wished 
to remain so; praised them for the progress they had made in fifty 
years towards becoming a great civilized world power etc. I of course 
had to speak in English which was translated to the representatives 
by one of those who could speak both languages. This was the be- 
gining of the receptions we met in every town we went to in Japan, 
all somewhat similar in their nature; being met and welcomed by the 
representative bodies of the city, and responses made by some mem- 
bers of our party, I spoke at several in one capacity or the other 
with a few minutes talk, while these preliminaries had been gone 
through with on the wharf at Yoko homa. every passenger landing 
was presented with a handsome little souvenir medal of metal, to 
be worn in Japan being especially made for the party, and was sup- 
posed to extend you extra attention and greetings, some wag said 
"that was to see you coining easy, so that the price of things could 
be raised." All this time the tourists were being rapidly loaded in- 
to the quaint Japanese mode of conveyance, the Ricksha, a little two 
wheeled cart with a pair of shafts and was pulled by a Japanese 
coolie, there being several hundred at the wharf, and whirled away 
to the depots for the distant places, or for a ride around the 
city. It was the first experience of most of the party in a Ricksha, 
and the novelty was greatly enjoyed, when you get used to the mo- 
tion. Some of them are rubber tired with good springs and ride very 
easily indeed, the little Jap taking a peculiar sort of a dog trot gait 
slightly swinging his body, his hands steadily holding the shafts, he 
can keep the pace from six to eight miles an hour up for hours, 
without much seeming fatigue, They wear no shoes, many have noth 
ing on their feet at all and over the gravel of the road, which would 
set any American crazy, others have a sort of a low canvas sock, with 
the big toe separate, like the mitten with the thumb, and others 
over this wear a sort of a sandal made of plaited straw costing only 
a couple of cents. 

The Japanese money is rather easy for the American except the 
fact of getting the pronunciation mixed up. The Yen is their 
unit of money same as is the dollar with us, but it is only worth 
fifty cents in our money, it is divided up into one hundred parts 

called sen and when pronounced sounds like our word cents, and 
many of our party asking the price of something would hear them 
say so many sen, thought it was American cents they meant and pay 
them twice as much as asked, of course in many cases the Jap kept 
it, smiled, said thank you, and nothing more. The coinage are copper 
one and two sen pieces; nickel five and ten sen pieces ; and ten, 
twenty and fifty sen, silver pieces, the rest of the money is pa- 



22 



per of a very poor quality and make, and ran in notes of all denom- 
inations. 

The mail facilities are well handled, and quickly, and they have a 
nice parcel post system at very reasonable prices. • Everywhere we 
went in Japan we were met with the smiles and cheerful greetings 
of these fine little people, and you easily let them take you over for 
extra money and charges, they did it so gracefully and politely. 

.The streets have no sidewalks and are generally very narrow, 
some of the modern ones being of the same width as our regular 
streets here, but fifteen feet is a good width for a street, from wall 
to wall, in regular Japan. The houses are mostly of bamboo and 
paper and only one story, though some have two stories, they often 
have a minature garden with a dwarfed tree or so and tiny streams 
paths, etc., just like a little dollbaby place, is what they really 
look like. 

Their worship in general is ancestral, with two varities of that 
religion called the Shinto and the Buddhists. I will not go into a 
description of these religions they vary so, and are so extensive and 
interests so few that it would be lost time. 

The women are very picturesque looking in their bright colored 
Kimonos, it being the principal articles of dress, weight being regula- 
ted according to the weather, They have the little short step shuff- 
ling gait, caused by walking with their little high wooden shoes. 
There wealth or position is often determined by the Ohi or sash they 
wear, the more elegant it is the higher up in society they are. 

Stone pillar lanterns are generally the monuments to old friends 
creted near the temples or in the yards of the houses or some con- 
venient place where it will show. 

The various sights of interest in Yokohoma are not so many, it 
being a newer place and very much commercialized, the shopping 
streets are worth while, especially the main ones called Benton-Do- 
ri and Honcho Dori which is lined with very interesting shops of all 
kinds, and there is somebody who can speak English in nearly all of 
them. The real Japanese life can be seen by going to the surround- 
ing villages nearby, where it is in all its primative state. There are 
a great many temples, but the one most interesting with its numerous 
shrines, are at the top of what is called One Hundred Steps Hill, it 
being reached by one hundred big stone steps and from which point 
a fine view of the city is had and also Fujiyama can be seen on 
clear days. 

At the top of the hundred steps is the Fujita one of the oldest 
and best known teahouses in Japan patronized by Europeans who vis- 
it Yokohoma and where ladies and gentlemen can both go, it has had 
a distinguished roll of people from afar who have visited it, of our 
country, among those being Commodore Perry who was the first one 
also General Grant, and many of the Princes of the old world went there 
They will serve you with fine dinners and give you geisha dances on 
short notice. The attendants are all dainty little Jap girls in their 
native costumes. 



23 

The Yokohoma Nurseries are well worth a visit for the enormous 
variety of flowering plants, and the many dwarfed trees of all kinds, 
that are on view and for sale, it is the hill where the foreign col- 
ony resides, a very pretty spot overlooking both the harbor and the 
town. Fanciful tales are told in connection with many of the spots 
and temples that are in and around the city, all of which are inter- 
esting but it would take several volumes to tell these alone, as to 
their origin etc. 

One thing that interested me greatly were their theatres, the ad- 
mission to which ran from 25 sen to 2 yen, the principal ones have 
galleries and circles divided off at different prices, but the pit down 
in front is often made free or a very low charge for same, they have 
no seats, but foreigners are brought minature stools if they wish them 
I thought I would like to go in the gallery to see what it is like, you 
first bought a small stick of wood about eight inches long, inch and 
half wide, and half inch thick with some characters on, this was your 
ticket, then you went up a steep winding stair and found yourself stand- 
ing in the "peanut heaven" behind upright bars like a cage, the floor 
sloped back with steps having a heavy matting under so there was 
no stamping. The stage is a peculiar affair projecting out into the 
auditorium at one or both sides, from which the actors often go on 
and off in full view of the audience using that way to indicate start- 
ing off on long journeys. The main stage rests on rollers and often in 
some thrilling part it rapidly revolves with the actors on bringing an 
other scene into view, the actors corning through the hack and go- 
ing right on with the scene or play The play is acted by the players, 
especially the dramas, while the words are chanted or sung by some- 
body off to one side, accompanied by a musical instrument, called a 
samisam. The comedies are carried out by the actors themselves, all 
the women parts are taken by men and well taken to. 

This article would hardly be complete without a menu of a regu- 
lar Japanese dinner, so I will give you a description of one served in 
the Fujita tea house where you get it in the best Japanese style. You 
were ushered into a room devoid of any furniture or decoration out- 
side of the wall pictures on the paper partitions; with some matting 
on the floor and cushions to sit on which we all tried to do as grace- 
fully as we could Japanese fashion. 

They begin by bringing you one dish after another, taking none 
of the emptied ones away until the little table soon looks like a 
place, at the country hotel in the states when they bring you in a 
raft of dishes all at once. 

They first serve you with tea the cup held in your hand then 
little teakwood tables are placed before you on which were soup and 
chopsticks and the courses were brought into you one after the oth- 
er as follows: — First, tea and cakes; Second, soup containing fish- 
paste and various vegetables; Third, fried fish; Fourth, thin slices 
of raw fish pink and white arranged very pretty and served with 
sauce; Fifth, fried oysters and green ginger; also served with sauce 
of horseraddish and mustard; Sixth shell fish stew, containing in ad- 
dition to several kinds of shell fish; slices of bambo sprouts, beans, 
carrots, and guess the rest; Seventh, rice with which are 



24 * 

several slices of raddish, which are supposed to aid in digesting the 
rice and a horrible sort of an oil pickle; Eighth, tea and cake; Ninth, 
quarters of pared apples and mandarin oranges, all fixed ready for 
eating. Saki, the national drink made from rice was served all through 
the meal; it is a rather bitter wine and I did not like it at all. Every- 
thing was daintily arranged on the dishes and daintily served by the 
tiny geisha girls in the attractive costumes. There was some of the 
meal that did not look or taste good, while other things you could eat 
so that 3'ou got enough generally. The dinner took a long time as 
they are never in a hurry and was followed afterwards by geisha dan- 
cing that was very pretty and interesting. 

There are many teahouses on the hill and around the city but 
they are not so respectable, many of them being but a cover for the 
house of ill fame, the main ones of wfiich are all situated in one sec- 
tion of the city, and is called the Yoshiwara. Japanese morals are a 
problem and many funny incidents could be related of the various 
kinds that were run across in our travels. More of this will be told 
farther on. 

Cremation is practiced mainly now in the disposal of the dead 
Those who do not cremate are buried in cemeteries, the strange part 
of which strikes you being the closeiess of the tombs together, which 
is caused by being buried in a sitting posture. I happened on a Sun- 
day, to witness a very large funeral of a well known Geisha girl and 
it was quite a sight, about fifty geis'aa girls all dressed in white car- 
rying each some offering of food, a posession of men dressed in black 
with large golden flowers on poles another body of men in dark 
gray as mourners, the coffin was a newly built minature oblong one 
story house, it was born on the shoulders of men and was beautiful 
carved, the body reposed inside all in white. Then followed relatives 
and others on foot the whole procession being about one quarter of 
a mile long, and I forgot to mention headed by a small band of Japa- 
nese instruments playing a rather doleful piece of music. 




Variation 



The Sacred Bridge at Nikko 




Japanese Actors 



3a 



CHAPTER V. 

TOKIG, KAMAKURA, and NIKKO. 

From Yokohoma we took an hours run in the cars to Kamakura, 
al one time, several hundred year ago the capital city of the island, 
wiiii half a million, population, but now only a small village containing 
the gicai bronze statue of the Daibulsu (being the name for Great 
Buddha, was at one time surround 3d by a temple but the ruins was 
carried away twice by a great tidal wave from the sea and never re- 
placed the last time. It has a height of 49 feet, a circumference of 97 
feet, and is 17 feet from ear to eai ha^ 830 curls each of a size 9X11 
inches; these few dimensions jwill give you an idea of its great size, 
and you ran go up into the head from the inside. It has a dreamy 
peaceful expression and has really a beauty and a charm, the more it 
is studied. The seashore here is very fine one and makes a beau- 
/il'ul view. 

The Jinriksha (that is the fui name contracted to Rikisha) men 
early dubbed me Diabutsu and that name stuck to me all through 
Japan and I had it as a nickname from many of my close friends on 
the ship- 
On the way to Kamakura was noted many pretty little farms and 
rice fields covered with water, they being built in sorts of terraced 
ponds one above the other so that the water could run from one to 
the other, everything seemed in minature as compared with our ex- 
pensive place in this country. 

All the way to Kamakura every station was crowded with people 
cheering us, and calling the already familiar "Banzai" that greeted us 
everywhere, it means a sort of a Hurrah in our country. At Kama- 
kura we were met by a band and a big crowd and the Mayor, by whom 
an address was delivered, and an. answer was made by some member 
of our party 

We next went to Nikko stopping at Tokio on the way where ,we 
were accorded another great reception, in the morning we took jin~ 
rikishas and went around this large city to see some of the principal 
points of interest among which are the Imperial palace, surrounded by 
a high wall and deep moat containing all the buildings necessary for 
the Emperor and his suite; it is four miles in circumference which gives 



you an idea of its MSMwensity, aawl the strength the plaee would have 
in ©Idea days helm*® the time of explosive shells. The Uyeno Mus- 
eum, which is the finest in Japan, was visited, and the many govern- 
ment buildings and a couple of temples, afterwards we returned to 
the fine Imperial Hotel for dinner,it is a modern up to date steam 
heated house ran in European fashion. In the afternoon was accord- 
ed us the fine reception under the auspices of the government at 
which many of the officials, and army and navy officers were pres- 
ent. It was held in the new Yurakuza Theatre, the first part being 
welcoming speeches fey prominent Japanese officials including Baron 
Shimbisawa the Pierpoint Morgar of Japan,and were responded to 
by members of our party. A wedding ceremony was played by 
girls on the stage being an exact counterpart of a noblemans 
wedding ceremony, followed by a Japanese play in one act by the 
new school of acting in Japan, all being girls, that was followed by 
Geisha dancing which was very pretty and interesting, though the 
slowness of their movements is directiy contrary to any sort of 
dancing in this country. 

After the play and dancing we retired to an adjoining building 
where tea, punch, sandwiches and cake were served and we met many 
of the officials; quite a pleasant reception in the evening the Grand 
Hall given by the government was held in the ball room of the hotel, 
before which a reception was held where we met some of the offi- 
cials and their wives. Two little Japanese ladies drew for us or rath- 
er hand-painted in a minute, and presented us a beautiful flower on 
a post card, any flower we asked for, as a souvenir of the occasion. 
The ball began at nine o'clock, the room was finely decorated with 
flowers and many American flags The Imperial band furnished the 
music. The government had representatives there from nearly all the 
departments of the cabinet, the Crown Prince's son, representatives 
from all the foreign legations, many of whom we met; it altogether be- 
ing quite a representative affair and was accorded leading space in 
the Japanese papers the next day 

The next morning March 1st we arose early and continued our 
sight seeing, visiting the famous war museum containing besides 
numerous old relics, a great quantity of relics of the Jap-Russian 
war. We also visited some more temples and Shrines some of which 
were very beautifully decorated with massive and numerous carv- 
ings rich in gold embelishments, the gold lacquer on some of the pil- 
lars being forty coatings deep, making it very expensive. 

There was an amusing incident occurred while visiting one of the 
temples, one of the curious ladies who asked a good many ques- 
tions many of them irrelevant, that were generally politely answered 
by the guide, and who seemed to be tiring a little of some of the 
foolish ones, came to a gate where two large dragon heads faced 
each other, the guide stated that they were always two heads over 
the gate, one was a male and onefemale, and the lady immediately 
asked how they told the difference, the answer came back quickly, 
the female always has its mouth open, she did not ask many ques- 
tions the remainder of the day, as we laughed long and heartily at 
the quick and witty answer of the guide. 



27 

Uyeno Part, a most beautiful sp»& on a hill overlooking Tokiu 
was the last place visited, and at four o'clock we look the special 
train for Nikko, a six hours run meeting with a large crowd and Ban- 
zai's at every station; at Utsunomiya station we were met by the 
Mayor and hundreds of school children with cards that had sonic 
greeting written on in English and were asked to exchange our name 
cards with them and many of the parly did, they also had hundreds 
of Japanese lanterns which they gave us. We arrived at Nikko late- 
in Ihe evening and started for our hotels through cheering lines of 
natives, going for a mile along a beautiful avenue of pine trees 
over three hundred years old that were planted by the poor natives 
as an offering, they being too poor to erect shrines and lantern mon- 
uments; the total length of this avenue is 26 miles. The lanterns on 
the rikishas, and the ones we had made a beautiful sight, along with 
the lanterns of the natives and the going along in single file looking 
like a long fire fly snake winding in and out all the way up the hill, 
until we reached our hotel at the top. The hotel was lighted all a 
round by electric lights and made a pretty sight. It was very modern 
and comfortable though we were in snow, and snow all around us in 
places 

The "bell hops" at the hotel were all tiny little Japanese maids, 
so small it looked as though you coukl put them in your pocket. It 
was laughable to see them try and help the men on with their over- 
coats, which they politely offered to do on every occasion, and we 
would let them try for the fun of the thing. They were very game, 
and by standing on their tip toes and reaching up as far as they 
could would he just able to reach your coat collar. They would offer 
to carry your heavy suitcases but we would, not let them do that pre- 
ferring to carry them ourselves. They moved around so quietly and 
popped into and out of your room sometimes at very embarrassing 
moments for us, building the fire etc., but they never minded it in 
the least. .The meals and service at this hotel were excellent. 

Nikko is one of the noted and beautiful soots in Japan and any- 
body going to that country should by ad means take a trip there, de- 
scriptions do not do it justice and can ne\ er show its grandeur. There 
are about three hundred temples and Shrines of the Shoguns there with 
their fine settings in the midst of the tall pine trees the red and gold 
of tho temples showing up well against this magnificient green back- 
ground making it a sight that will inner be forgotten. We visited a 
few of the temples, having to take our shoes off to go inside, and the 
amounts of money expended on them must be something enormous as the 
amount of gold used can be easily seen to be very large. 

There is also the well known Sacred Bridge over which nobody 
is allowed to cross except the royar family, being well made and cov- 
ered with red lacquer, there is a long tale connected with its history. 

The sight the next morning with the sun rising over those high 
snow capped mountain tops, the green setting, the rushing brook, all 
impressed one greatly. 

The emblems of the Japanese religion being many, a few I will 
name, one is the Sleeping cat carved on many of the temples, another 



28 

is the three monkeys one with paws over mouth, another over ears, 
and another over eyes, symbolizing speak no evil, hear no evil, see no 
evil. Different Gods are also carved, the God of the Winds, of the 
Flames, of the Waters,and many others. Many pretty pagodas., are 
near some of the temples being fivestories, about one hundrer feet high, 
and are finely carved and decorated. Extensive copper mines are in the 
mountains above Nikko. 

It is a little hard to understand a Jap speaking the English lan- 
guage, or they to understand you trying to speak theirs, until you get 
on to the fact that they seem to make a syllable of every vowel, or 
right after every vowel, with some few exceptions. As an illustration, 
they would pronounce our word regent, re-ge-nt pronouncing each 
syllable as I have it. Their word Daibutsu for instance is pronounc- 
ed dai-bu-tsu they do not seem to emphasize any syllables at all Oha- 
yo pronounced like our state word Ohio means good morning and 
"sayonara" is good bye. The vowels are all pronounced phonetically 
being principally the short sounds 

The railroad cars in Japan, the first and second class ones, are 
very much like ours, no compartment but the seats run along the side 
like street cars, all other cars on my whole trip were compartment 
cars, each big car being separated into four or five compartments., 3 
will speak more of this later. 

I left Nikko early with Mrs. Clark and a friend to get hack to 
Yokohoma in time for a special dinner being served at the Grand Ho- 
tel, and a grand ball to be held that evening in our honor. We had 
a very pleasant ride to °Tokio but had over four miles to go by riki- 
sha from Uyeno station to Shimbasi station in Tokio and found when 
we landed we had only half an hour to make it in to catch the right 
train. We made a quick dicker with four sturdy fellows and had each 
one get a helper so that there were two men to each rickisha; we 
impressed upon them they must go and there was something extra in 
it for them, and began one of the wildest rides I have ever taken, 
full tilt often on one wheel, worming their way at high speed between 
wagons, street cars, torn up streets pedestrains and missing heavy ve- 
hicles, and people by a hair, the Japs yelling like Indians ail the way 
until your hair stood on end, and we all drew a good long breath 
when the other station hove in sight and that wild ride was ended. It 
had been made in 26 minutes and we caught our train, and there met 
many of the prominent railroad and government officials on the way 
io attend the dinner and the ball and had a very pleasant .journey 
the balance of the ride. We were informed the regular time for the 
trip between the two stations, by rickssha was one hour and that on 
ihe run. 

Avery fine dinner of ten courses was served at tha Grand Hotel 
at Yokohoma, 1 was the guest of Mr Clark and very pretty souvenirs wer 
given, a handsome embroidered silk card case for the ladies, and an 
embossed metal cigarette case for the men. 

The ball began at 9:30, the music by the ships orchestra, the pro- 
prietor hoping to have two orchestras but was disappointed in the 
focal one. By the way the proprietor was a Pennsylvania hoy by the 
name of Mannering originally from Philadelphia. 



29 

I was very much surprised about the middle of the bail to have a 
familiar face walk up to me and say how do you do Mr. Bush, but 
1 could not for the life of me place the name, though the face was 
very familiar, at last I said I thi.ik you are a State College boy 
were you not, and he said ho was. His name was Ketchum, he had 
graduated a few years before and I had often seen him in Bellefonte. 
Ho had been in Yokohoma for two years liked it pretty well, but said 
that he and all the American boys were awfully glad to see our crowd 
it made them feel good for a long time afterwards. He was in the 
electrical business I believe 

A great many people were present many whom had been to the 
ball a couple of nights before, at Tokio. We all enjoyed ourselves 
very much until the music stopped at one o'clock, but it was a much 
later hour when we finally got to bed. I danced with a couple of the 
Japanese ladies and it was somewhat of an experience, they being in 
ihoir little canvas indoor socks and very light, and not being able to 
glide over the floor like we could in our leather shoes, had to take 
many steps, but they danced easy at that, being so light and quick 
in their steps. Madam Hayashi who has been spoken of in news- 
paper articles, having married her adopted brother, who was mana- 
ger of the Imperial Hotel at Tokio was one of the ladies. 

The public bath houses are many of them very peculiar affairs in 
the fact that the only thing that separates the mens from the wom- 
ens sides is a pole across the center of the pool. 

One of the most interesting things is the shopping and it is a 
great deal of sport in a way, though many did not like it. In the 
great majority of shops that are frequented by foreigners, the in- 
stant they see a foreigner coming they raise the prices, or it seems 
that way, for when you first ask them the price of something they 
name you what seems a high price for Japan; though it would only 
he a moderate price in our shops, for the same article delivered, 
with the duty paid. You demur a little and they will name you a low 
er price possibly as much as half off, but those things vary and if 
you keep on dickering, or let them see that you do not care for it 
very much, they will keep coming down until you don't know where 
slopping place is, but if they saw that you wished it ,that settled il 
and they stuck to their second or third price named until you pur- 
chased. I often set my mind on what I would pay, and never swerved 
from it, and generally got it at that price, though sometimes not until 
the day after, when one happened by, they would call you in and let 
you have the goods at your own price formerly named. An idea of 
values was a very great help, you discounting duty, cost and lower 
labor costs etc. There are a few of the mo-re prominent stores who 
have one price and they very rarely dropped from that, but the 
goods were good, and the prices generally not high. Japan was not 
so bad in regard to purchasing as some of the later countries visit- 
ed. The small native shops in the unfrequented places generally gave 
you a low or the lowest price, and from which they would come down 
but little. I might illustrate one of my experience in buying a Kim- 
ono I saw one I liked, the proprietor asked 36 yen for it I offered 
him twelve, it was a gold embroidered on black silk quilted, the fig- 
ures big dragons. He came down to twenty yen that day but would 



30 

not come any lower, the next morning I walked by the store and look- 
ed in the window for a few minutes, until he saw me and he instan- 
tly came out and said, would you not like to buy that kimono to day, 
I said I would only pay 12 yen font ,110 more, he said all right, so I 
went in and looked and found it was the same one and then said I 
will take three, knowing two of my friends who had wanted me to buy 
some for them. It was very rarely that I did not get the article at 
the price I set though it often took a day or so to make the deal. 

The shops are all small with ew exceptions, but with many beau- 
tiful things in carvings and embroideries, that made your mouth water 
lor a big pocket book. 



31 



CHAPTER VL 
KOBE, OSAKA a nd KIOTO. 

On Friday morning the fourth f March we cast off early and 
steamed away for Kobe, where we arrived on Saturday morning the 
fifth. Kobe is at one end of the beautiful inland sea of Japan, has 
a population of about 300.000 and i s a new but already large seaport 
I noted over thirty large steamers riding at anchor in the harbor, 
which is in the form of a cresent the city being builded around that 
half circle and extends back up th e hills and mountains; which come 
close to the shore nearly all the way around, making it a well shel- 
tered place from storms. There are a great many factories here of 
all kinds and the place is noted for its beautiful and artistic designs 
in pottery, tapestry, silk making and weaving and bamboo basket 
work. It is the principal seaport for Osaka, which is the greatest 
commercial city in Japan, being about forty minutes ride by train, 
Kobe is a very clean and well kept city.mosi of the streets being wide 
for that country. 

The principal points of interest consists of temples and another 
enormous Daibutsu, but the thing that interested the party most was 
the athletic games consisting of Ju-jitsu, wrestling, broad sword con-' 
tests, etc., which were very fine lasting a couple of hours, produced" 
by a National Athletic Club Composed of the better classes. Tea 
was served us at several places, the one in particular in a private 
park of one of the noblemen and was presided over by the ladies of 
high officials of the city, they made tea in a peculiar fashion, pulver-' 
i/.ing the leaves then pouring in hot water, and whipping same with 
a finely split bamboo stick like an egg whipper, the tea was very 
green and made a thick green be* erage that had a delicious taste, 
they also served cakes and ices. The ladies were richly and beautiful^ 
!y dressed and extremely courteous and altogether it was a delightful- 

On Sunday we took the train for Osaka, a very large manufact- 
uring city of over one million inhabitants; it is a sort of a Japanese 
Venice being intersected by many canals and the river. Here we re- 
ceived one of the greatest receptions ever given to anybody, the 



32 '-« 

route of our travel through (the : oity in riekishas feeing -Jined for 
for miles and miles with cheering thousands crying "Banxai'* and 
"Ohayo" and waving American flags at us; as one of the party said; 
■"I saw more American flags iffi tha city, than I have ever seen in 
America in any one place." Little babies in arms even had flags and 
waved them there seemed to he millions of them. It is roughly es- 
timated that half a million people lined the total route of travel; all 
with smiles and cheers, it certainly was a thrilling sight. We were met 
at the depot hy the Mayor and council, and short addresses of wel- 
come and responses were made. 

All along the route of our travels besides the cheering and cries 
of welcome, some of the school boy^ would hand members of the par- 
ly cards, generally post cards of ttte oily written oa the reverse side 
with some greeting in the Englisl" language they were taught in the 
schools. 

I will give an example ©f <wt. of several, that were handed to 
me, word for word as given. 



I have pleasure to send yon this letter. I am sorry that there 
is nothing to please you in Osaka. But ail people in Osaka receive 
you heartily, now we have rarely snow, this snow is the sign to wel- 
come you. We herehy prey tha between America and Japan and 
will become more and more closely Yours Truly 
Banzai Banzai 
Osaka 6 Feb. 191© 
Eisuke Vishlnrara 

Ote I Chome Negashiku Osaka. 

In reference to the snow, I forgot to mention that the morning 
we arrived in Osaka, there was quite a heavy snow fall, but the af- 
ternoon turned out clear and sunny and the only inconvenience oc- 
casioned, was the slight mud that it r*»ade underfoot, but that seemed 
to bother the rickisha man about as little as anything else did. 

This party numbering about three hundrer and fifty, went at 
noon to the large "Osaka Hotel" for the banquet, and indeed it was 
a very elaborate one; had a pretty souvenir at every piate,and a 
printed address enclosed, the American and Japanese flags were en- 
twined. Descriptive hooks and post cards of the plaee were also en- 
closed. The fine Imperial Band was (here and played very well all 
during the dinner; the Japanese »nd American national airs were both 
rendered during which we all rosf and stood until the pieces were fin- 
ished. 1. in a short speech introduced Mr. Otsuka, the manager of the 
hotel and secretary of the board of trades they having provided all 
this enterlainmenl for us, and he made us a fine address and was 
well pleased with the enthusiast!* reception be received from us. I 
called on Prof. Trueblood to respond he made a complimentary re- 
sponse, thanking them for giving us this fine reception, when we were 
not there long enough to do them any material good in the way of 
leaving money for purchases. It eertainiy was nice of them and un- 
doubtedly came from the heart. 

The famous Osaka Castle was a fine object of what was once an 




Vhild 



Straw Rain Coats 



■■'/MM 


mu 


j 1 


*&' 


r iP- 


^ 1 m 

* ■ 


■ 


IP? 


Ir. 


C { 

1 

- 




t| 




'-'•* .*_<(. 




- 


* 



feuuuay 



Rope of Human Hair 



33 

impregnable fort, the finest I hark ever seen, rivaling thewell-known 
Quebec, Canada, and the one at A;4>*a in India, as well as the one 
on the Island of Corfu in the Mediterranean Sea. 

There are single stones in its massive walls forty feet long 
twelve feet high and said to be six to eight feet thick; they are a 
marvel, to wonder how they could have been gotten there at thaL 
time, the fort having been built in the sixteenth century. It would be 
a great feat today, and they were said to have been brought long 
distances. There are several stones near the size. The one other 
chief point of interest was the Tanoji Temple, founded about 600 A ■ 
D; It has a fine five story pagoda one of the largest in Japan, built 
of massive timbers, the huge cen tre piece going up through being 
about three feet square, hewn with an axe, and is one hundred and 
Shirty feet long. This would be a feat of its self alone to erect. The 
Temple had a Buddha that was said to have a thousand hands; I 
tooli their word for it, but it looked like it; the top hands held the 
sun and moon and the others held some objects representing imple- 
ments of every kind. There were a great number of gold and sil- 
ver offerings of large value. In a building close by was a sort of 
historical museum, containing some very old writings; it was- claimed 
some of them were the original writings of Confucius, the famous 
Chinese philosopher and they really looked the part. Close to that 
was the largest bronze bell I ever seen, being beaten in size onlydsy 
the one at Moscow. It was rung on feast days; a large beam afoot 
vjuare and thirty feet long was us«-d to strike it, being swung- on 
ropes, and it takes twenty men to swing the beam to make it strike 
the bell. The Imperial Mint is also here. There are many other 
places of interest, too numerous to mention, but which did not strike 
me so forcibly. At four o'clock we went to the station to take the 
train for Kyoto and there again the' Mayor and some of the offic- 
ials of the town were down to see us off, and I was called upon to 
make them an address of thanks for the many courtesies they hat 
shown us, and expressed regret at the shortness of our stay etc. 

The following was the printed greeting that was found at each plat^ 
at the hotel along with the flags, flowers and souvenirs and is so- ex- 
pressive of the general feeling as we saw it everywhere in Japan that 
I reproduce it here as follows: 



A HEARTY WELCOME TO OUR GUESTS! 

It is the desire of the Asahi shimbun to let our honored 
Guests from the other side of the great Pacific know 
how well Japan appreciates all the kindness shown to 
the representatives of her Trade and Commerce during 
their recent trip through the immense Republic; 

It is with feeling of gr eat satisfaction that we now ten- 
der them our 

HEARTIEST WELCOME, 
with the hope that their short stay in our country may 
be a dear remembrance to them in later times, thus 
helping to link tighter our common interests and smooth- 



34 

en the way to free intercourse and perfect understand- 
ing between the future generations of both people. 

Although Osaka is th e centre of Japanese industry, we 
hardly venture to think that we can show visitors any- 
thing comparable in interest to their own mighty object 
lessons of progress, but still we are happy to remember 
the appreciation evinced by Americans of the efforts 
which this country has trade of late years. 

We wish we could give our guests as much pleasure 
as there countrymen have given to Japanese visitors to 
the States, and it is our greatest iiipc i.hat we may at 
least be able to cause them to leave our island with a 
feeling of regret and a desire to return. 

OSAKA ASAHI SHIMBUN. 



We arrived at Kyoto about five o'clock, the station was filled with 
cheering crowds; again short addresses were made to the officials 
and we took rickshas for our four mile ride to the Miyako Hotel, the 
road all along being lined as at Osaka, though with not so many 
people, as the town has only about three hundred population. It was 
dark when we arrived at the Hotel and it certainly was a sight with 
the countless Japanese lanterns lighted for our benefit. The Hotel 
was a large one and erected high on the hillside; you were always on 
the first floor even when you went up five flights of stairs, and it 
seemed to be about a half mile from my room to the dining room, 
it covered so much ground. It was a very comfortable place withal' 
the meals being fine and were served by a great number of dainty 
little Japanese maidens; and with the decorated and well lighted din- 
ing room made a very picturesque sight. 

Kyoto was once the capital of Japan and has within the city lim- 
its 827 Buddhist Temples and some 80 Shinto shrines. The Imperial 
Palace there is a beauty of Japanese art and decoration; and though 
rarely opened to the public, the Emporer made a special courtesy 
for us, and sent his Messenger to have it opened for our inspection. 
We had to write our names and addresses in a book, and take off 
our shoes before going into it and it was indeed a treat to see the fine 
paintings and carvings in the various rooms, all in the highest style 
of Japanese art. 

Of the many Temples I will only mention one; it was entirely 
different from any we had seen as yet though we were begining to 
•50 1 very tired of seeing Temples, it is the largest in Japan covering 
about fifty thousand square feet, the supporting columns were mag- 
nificient pieces of wood being forty to fifty feet long without a knot 
and from two to three feet in dianeter, there were a great many of 
them, the beams were all massive and the decorations were all on a 
large scale. The Temple contained in one part 550 prayer mats size 
3X6 feet, and a massive altar, all richly decorated, with gold and 
precious stones. Here were seen the massive coils of rope made of 
human hair one coil of which was on exhibition, the rope being 90 
feet long and nine inches in circumference. There were 29 of these 
coils. We saw one of them being used in raising some of these mas- 



35 

sive timbers. They were building a gate for the temple, the old gate 
having burned down a couple of years ago. Each rope was said to 
contain the hair of ten thousand women; they gave their hair hav- 
ing nothing else to contribute. 

In Kyoto are the principal manufactures of Damascene, Satsuma 
Gloisene, and bronze inlaying, and I visited all these factories, or 
rather shops they were, and was very much interested in the pro- 
cess that the work went through. I will try and give a short descrip- 
tion of such process. Damascene is made by taking a steel plate, 
made of soft steel, cutting or scouring it full of fine lines, then gold 
wire is taken and stretched out very fine and the design is work- 
ed out and the gold wire hammered into this steel face. When it is 
finished it is put into an oven very hot and annealed then the. 
parts between where there is no gold design are filled with enamel; 
and then baked again, and all finely ground and polished. It shows 
very beautiful gold designs and makes a very durable piece of ar- 
tistic work; the grades of work and quantity of gold varies, thus making 
the difference in the prices of the same looking piece of ware. 

Satsuma is a fine piece of crockery made at only one place 
in Japan, that has peculiar firing possibilities; this one place sup- 
plies all the decorators with their raw material. The designs are 
drawn on the ware and then each color required is painted on, and 
after each coloring it is fired as many as seven times; some of the 
designs are very pretty, for instance one represented butterflies in- 
side and outside of a cage the diffeent firings and paintings, showing 
that effect. 

Gloisene is made by first taking a rough copper utensil in shape 
of the object wanted; the design is then drawn on the utensil, silver 
wire is drawn out very fine and is bent and twisted to the design 
and fastened with some sort of a glue, when the whole design has 
been carried out with the silverwire, the vacant places are filled 
with enamel of the colors wanted and the whole thing fired. The sil- 
ver and enamel adhere to the object, which is then taken and ground 
on a wheel and polished until it is all a smooth surface; the fine 
silver lines stand out in contrast with the enamel, which makes the 
fine cloisene ware we see today. The various differences in the ware 
are in using silver objects and polishing them before laying on the 
design, then enamelling, which ma ;•:<-; the nice translucent ware of 
that *ome material. There are many grades of that also by use of 
different metals and enamels. 

The broze inlaying is also very interesting; a fine soft copper 
bronze being fashioned into the object wanted, then the design is 
cut out, gold, silver and the various bronzes of those metals to get the 
different colors, are taken and hammered into those cut out places 
and annealed and polished; then the finishing line engraving is ad- 
ded and the beautiful work completed. All these various processes 
take a great deal of time and patience, and the wages paid are low, 
being from twenty to forty cents a day for the good workers. 

I was greatly interested in all methods of mechanical workings, 
the blacksmith instead of filing, takes a sharp edged piece of steel 
and literally planes the iron off by hand, a very laborions process. The 
carpenters instead of pushing the saw away from him draws it to- 



36 , 

ward him, the same way with the plane, and many curious methods 
of working and using tools were noticed in the various trades and 
workshops that were passed by. The women in washing clothes, in- 
stead of rubbing on a rough board like we do; soap the clothes and 
then beat them very hard over flat stones, it gets them clean in time 
but is pretty hard on the clothes. 

Kyoto is also noted for its fine embroideries we seeing many 
beautiful pieces of that art, as well as the women working on them. 
At the hotel at noon, we were treated to several Geisha Dances by 
eight beautiful little Jap girls who were grace itself; and they were so 
pretty and so small it was like looking at living doll babies, and for 
over an hour we were very much entertained. 

We took the train for Kobe greatly pleased with our visit to 
those interesting cities of Kyoto and Osaka, and many resolved that 
if they ever got that way again they would gladly spend more time. 

On all the trains that we took there were little Jap boys with 
red caps who could speak English fairly well, acting as a sort of 
train guide. To liven up the time on the way down to Kobe, I got sev- 
eral of these little fellows together and we finally persuaded them to 
sing for us, they sang some Japanese songs and finally surprised us, 
by singing some typical American songs in good English 

I asked them to sing the Japanese National song which they did with 
a good bit of expression and feeling, and then sang the ''Star Spang- 
led Banner" by request; but wound up by asking us to sing it for 
them and much to our surprise and disgust there was not a person 
out of thirty in the car, that knew anything but the chorus and the Jap 
boys certainly had the laugh on us. 

Every .lap child is required to go to school and in the higher 
schools every boy is required to learn two of three foreign languages 
namely English, French and German, the most of them choose En- 
glish and German. At many places the schools were closed in hon- 
or of our visit, and the high schoolboys all volunteered to act as 
guides, glad of the chance to air their English and learn from En- 
glish speaking people, and they made very interesting and earnest 
guides. They absolutely refused an) fees or tips and also refused any 
lump sum from Mr. Clark, so he in one instance contributed $500 
to the charity fund of the city. 

We arrived at Kobe and was back on the ship about 8:30, and 
bmnd the welcome signs in colored electric lights, to greet us, the 
band playing and a good hot dinner waiting for us, and it was very 
welcome I can tell you. 

Went on shore the next morning and happened on a Chinese 
baptism at one of the Buddhist temples , the Chinese mother very 
beautifully dressed, had the baby covered with a very pettily em- 
broidered kimono with a number of inscribed papers tied on in rear 
of it, they were prayers. The name was registered at the shrine 
and then the party went on to the Temple for the final rights of bap- 
tism. 

The following poem on Japan was Mr. L. A. Sherman's of Port 
Huron, Mich., contribution to the Traveller's Club meeting, it is writ- 
ten to the meter of Hiawatha. 



37 
IN QUAINT JAPAN. 

Over two thousand leagues of water, 

O'er Pacific's billows 
Come we now with joy and gladness, 

To the Rising Sun's dominion, 
Where the mornings rosy finger 

Touches first the sacred mountains. 
Gilds the snowy cone of Fuji 

With its ocean filtered sunbeams, 
"Banzai, Banzai," about the people, — 

Ten millenniums of welcome 
To their occidental brethern, 

To the Great Republic's people, 
Gome to meet the sons of Nippon, 

Come to greet its quaint robed daughters. 
"Ohayo", with merry laughter, 

Shout the children, oft repeating 
This "Goodmorning," this their greeting 

To the light haired western strangers, 
Borne across the eastern ocean 

To the shores of ancient Nippon 
Here, entwined with Japan's sunburst, 

Waves our glorious starry banner, 
Wave its bars of white and crimson, 

Hung in scores and flung in hundreds 
Over the doorways of the houses, 

Over streets and public places, 
Good will speaking for our nation. 

So we pass from port to city, 
Visit temples, shrines of Buddha; 

Traverse many streets in "rickshaws"; 
Go among the common people; 

Enter quaint and cleanly dwellings; 
Hear the wooden footgear clatter 

On the narrow walks and pavements; 
See the workmen at their labors 

In the shops along the byways. 
Find we here a courteous people, 

Find a people with ambition, 
Emulating western peoples 

In the art of peace and warfare. 
So we pass along the islands, 

Sail to Nagasaki harbor, 
Where ten thousand lighted torches 

Wave us farewells in the evening. 
As we leave the island Kingdom, 

Leave the Rising's Sun dominion. 
o o — o 



38 



CHAPTER VII. 
INLAND SEA and NAGASAKI. 

We sailed from Kobe at three p. m., leaving late so that part of 
the pretty scenery of the inland sea which we would reach in the ear- 
ly morning, could be seen in daytime. All went to bed early and 
many were up at daylight, and from that time until noon it was one 
beautiful and interesting view after another, hard to describe, only to 
be seen to be rightly appreciated,! longed for a little motor boat and 
a couple of weeks to thoroughly enjoy it. We steamed slowly along 
until we reached the wider part of the sea when we speeded up across 
it and slowed down again at the narrows, approaching the famous 
Shimoniski straights, the narrows here being so small and tortuous 
that other boats had to get out of our way before we could go through 
A pilot had been taken on at Kobe to take us to Nagasaki, whither we 
were bound, and though only two nights and one day on board; it is 
said that his fee for piloting was three hundred and fifty dollars, he 
was a Scotchman. The govenment licenses the pilots and only allows 
a few of them to know the channels, as it is their greatest protection 
from their foreign enemies in time of war; from having the beautiful 
shores of this inland sea ravished with shot and shell. Of course all 
these narrow straights are heavily protected by concealed fortifica- 
tions and neither we nor anybody else were allowed to take any pho- 
tographs anyways near them. 

These straights have large prosperous, commercial and manufac- 
turing cities on both sides of them; especially iron works the ore be- 
ing mined right out of the mountains directly back of the town. After- 
passing through the narrow part we came out into the broadened head 
of the straights where the great Russian fleet was entirely annihil- 
ated by the Japanese war vessels, and that of course interested us. 

We arrived at Nagasaki about four o'clock the next morning and 
went up into this fine landlocked harbor, where a dozen nations 
fleets could lie in perfect safety fr om any enemy. The harbor is about 
twelve miles up a narrow necked channel from the sea, between 
high mountains, filled with concealed batteries and forts. The com- 
merce is on the down hill at Nagasaki, the reason several people gave 
me; being that the Japanese did not wish it to become an extensive 



39 

port they wanted it for their navy for refuge in time of war, their 
having very extensive ship-building yards, iron works, and everything 

necessary for fixing up a navy in perfect safety located on the har- 
bor. 

Wo were anchored close to shore here, and went back and forth 
to the ship on little steam tenders; there arc no wharves. We had 
to do the same thing at Kobe and in fact most of the places we land- 
ed was by steam tenders, sometimes having to go a couple of miles to 
the landing stages, which when a little rough as it sometimes was, 
these small boats felt it quickly and many of the women were glad to 
land. This port is built upon rising hills, each parallel street being 
higher up than the one below, the only level street is the one on the 
water front called the Bund. 

The streets here are all the narrow ones of an old city and is 
the only place in Japan where foreigners were permitted to reside 
before 1858, the year Commodore Perry arrived from the United States 
with his fleet, and at this place made his famous treaty with Japan. 

On one hill which we climbed near a Shrine was found the famous 
old camphor tree., 33 feet in circumference and over a thousand years 
old. Suwa Park and Temple contains many interesting things; here 
is the tree planted by General Grant which is very carefully preserv- 
ed, with a stone monument beside it containing carved in bronze a 
copy of the autograph letter Grant wrote, at the time of planting the 
tree. 

The entrance to the Temple is through or rather under several 
Tori, being Shinto gates to their temples, and the first one here is 
of massive bronze, thirty-three feet high, the largest in Japan. 

The Bronze horse temple is also here, there being a bronze horse 
in front of it, and there is always kept a live horse that is consid- 
ered sacred on the lot; he has a nice little plat in the park all to him- 
self, but he looks just like any other horse and has a great deal better 
snap. 

At another part of the park a large platform had been erected by 
the authorities, on which was given for our benefit, several native dan- 
ces, part acting and part dancing. They changed dress between each 
art and were very interesting and somewhat amusing, also somewhat 
grotesque at times. An amusing thing was a sign hung up to the one 
side of the stage which read some thing like this: "A costume dance 
by decent girls." They also had arrow shooting contests and wrest- 
ling for us. Many other temples were seen some varying from the 
others, commemorating different things or events in history. A beau- 
tiful ride was along the hills to a place called Mogi, which many of 
the party took. 

We were invited out to Tiffin, as the noon day meal is called in 
Japan, by Mr and Mrs Hepburn who is the Standard Oil representative 
at this place, and we called at the time named, and were admitted by 
a Japanese man servant; they are always addressed as "Boy," every- 
where where men servants are employed in Japan and India. We 
were cordially and graciously received and introduced to a Col. and 
Mrs. Irons, who were on their way to Manilla, he going to take charge 
of his regiment, the 19th, having just served three years in Tokio as 
Military attache to the American Legation. They were very charm- 



40 

ing people Mrs. Irons being a very pretty woman, it was said she was 
the belle of all the legations at Tokio. Mr. Hepburn was from New 
York State originally but had been here for nearly thirty years, com- 
ing to the States occasionally Mrs. Hepburns maiden name was Shaw, 
her parents home being in Lock Haven, Pa. 

We had a most delightful dinner served us in regal style and from 
the quaintest china, much of it be ing several hundreds of years old, 
and of unique, obselete, and curious designs, The house was full of 
curios which interested us greatly and our stay was so pleasant, that 
before we knew it it was luncheon time, and we had to stay and have 
some very fine tea and sandwiches The next day we called to pay 
our respects and had delicious tea again and met several of the 
small foreign colony there. 

Both evenings we were at Nagasaki a magnificient display of fire- 
works was put off for our benefit, from a boat anchored out in the 
harbor, the display lasting for about an hour and a half; there were 
many fine aerial pieces, in fact most all was aerial, as being much 
better seen from all parts of the bay. The fireworks the last night 
just preceded an enormous lantern parade which was gotten up for 
our benefit, about ten thousand me n and boys each with some sort of 
a Japanese lantern, some on long, some on short poles, and carried 
by hand, and of all sizes participated, headed by a band and the pa- 
rade weaving back and forth on the hill made a very pretty sight look- 
ing like myriads of moving fireflies, the distance we were off the shore 
giving it this interesting effect. 

On one of the greatest and mo s t interesting sights at Nagasaki 
was the coaling of the ship, where six thousand tons of coal were tak- 
en on board, every bit handled by hand. Early in the morning of our 
arrival about a hundred large barges came around the ship most alt 
laden with coal. A bamboo staging wa s hastly rigged making platform 
steps about three feet apart. These were erected on both sides of the 
ship and about two thousand men, women, girls and boys, though 
they were mostly females, ranged themselves on these various steps, 
and as close as they could stand, and began passing small baskets 
each holding about a peck of coal rapidly up from the boats belo w, 
and this was kept up without cessation until ten o'clock at night, and 
for several hours the next day until the coal was all on board. They 
earned from twenty to thirty cents a day. The record in the harbor 
was fifteen hundred tons of coal put on a boat in two and a half 
hours in this manner, which is faster than machinery could do. 

The rickisha men are mostly a hard working lot and will keep a 
going until they drop in their tracks from exhaustion, and in some 
cases have fallen over dead. 

Everywhere you go in Japan you will find the men who handle 
the money are the Chinese, they seem to be more reliable and ac- 
curate than the Japs, the cashiers of the large stores, and banks, and 
all the money changers are Chinese. 

One of the largest industries of the fine art nature of Nagasaki 
is the tortoise shell work, and the carving of some of it is very beau- 
tiful, there are many shops that have it on sale exclusively, and it 
is made into every conceivable thing that it could be used for. You 
have to be very careful though as there are many imitations, one 




Coaling at Nagasaki 



41 

of the best in the imitation line is, a very thin shaving of tortoise 
shell covering a piece of horn on both sides, cemented so that it 
takes an expert to notice the difference, and in that way get a good 
price for something cheap. This in time, if not carefully preserved, 
shells off from the horn, the veneer is very thin and very cleverly 
put on. The carving of the regular as well as the imitation work is 
very good and some nice designs are seen. 

The Japanese Newspapers gave us columns of space, I was inter- 
viewed by many reporters on various topics sometimes with, and oth- 
ers without an interperter. In most of the papers I did not care to read 
my interviews as you had to hold the paper upside down and try and 
read hen tracks, but as nearly every one took either your picture or 
a signature which was reproduced, and was all you could recognize, 
that let us know that something was used, I have several of the pa- 
pers as curiosities, that I brought home with me. The reporters are 
just as progressive and as great hustlers as our American ones and 
are generally a fine lot of fellows, and girls to I should say, as there 
are many female reporters. 

The great thing that impressed most of us was the large quantity 
of little black eyed kids everywhere so much so that one bright little old 
lady, Mrs. A. E. Petherbridge of Peoria, 111., wrote a poem called 
"The Babies of Japan," which I reproduce: 

THE BABIES OF JAPAN. 

The babies were my great attraction, 
Babies homely, and babies pretty, 
Babies galore in every city; 
I am sure there is no limit at all 
To children large, or babies small; 
Babies forming a mighty host; 
They'd be T. Roosevelt's pride and boast, 
If from this planet they should be hurled, 
They'd amply stock a bran new world. 
Babies dark, and babies fair, 
Babies with heads shaved close and bare, 
Others with hair as black as jet, 
Babies whose hair and eyebrows met. 
Babies thin, and babies fat, 
Babies asleep as sound as a bat. 
Babies awake with a happy smile, 
Babies whose eyes were stretched a mile. 
Babies short, and babies tall, 
I really think I saw them all. 

So many bright little black eyes were there that some day it will 
be a nation that will have to be reckoned with. 

They have few of what we call factories, in Japan; the so called 
factories being really shops where six to eight people are employed, 
though one man may control several of these shops. There are no 
middlemen in Japan, the manufacturer often selling to the consum- 
er direct; this with the small profit they are willing to take, and the 
low cost of materials, and labor, makes everything seem very cheap; 
it can really be called the consumers paradise. 



42 

The common labor is paid on the average of 25 cents a day, the 
mechanic and artisan from 75 cents to $1.00, and the best workmen 
can be gotten for that. 

The children always revere their parents and that accounts for 
the parents not having to lay by anything for old age as they are 
always taken care of. 

In the many shops you will find the stores on the one side, and 
the factory on the other; the living room in the rear. 

We noticed in the cities many little steam carts looking like our 
peanut roasters, and on inquiry and examination found them to be 
traveling pipe cleaners. The Japs smoke a very small pipe that holds 
an amount of tobacco about the size of a pea and they get about 
two puffs out of it at a time, then they have to refill it; it soon 
becomes foul, and as they have many pipes, the cleaner is kept pret- 
ty busy. 

The building operations in the cities were somewhat interesting 
on account of the scaffolding being all bamboo, tied together, not a 
p.aii being used, they are very strong. 

The various combinations of European and Japanese dress are 
often amusing, the garments being mixed up in a very ludicrous man- 
ner. 

The average size of the Japanese farm is from two to five acres; 
a wheat field will be probably twenty feet square, some more, and 
many other fields not that much, it would look very funny to our 
farmers with their many acred fields and farms. 

The social evil in Japan is the one thing it is hard to understand 
being at so great a variance with ours. Every large city has what 
is called the Yoshiwara; a segregated district of itself controlled 
by the government, the girls are called joros to distinguish them 
from Geisha girls who are of a higher class, though not much bet- 
ter in a sense than the joro. Girls are sold by their parents for 
a term of from one to three years to the owners of the "Guild" as it is 
called, ranging in prices from one hundred to five hundred dollars de- 
pending on their looks, the time, etc.They come mostly from the poorer 
classes, as the higher classes would be. In some cities this Yoshiwara 
is surrounded by a fence with gates and none of the regular inmates 
are permitted to leave without a permit. In Tokio this place covers 
a large area of land and contains a total population of about 100,000 
soul'?, all aepending directly or indirectly on the support accorded it 
by the patrons. The streets of this small city are clean, well light 
ed the higher class houses you could tell nothing from their out- 
side appearance what they were used ^'or, the lower class, having 
houses with open fronts with large rooms, separated from the 
passersby on the street by narrow wooden bars, in which the girls sit 
ior the inspection of the patrons. Often the front bars are gilded 
and the girls are richly dressed in line silk Kimonas, but all have 
their faces highly daubed with powder and their lips painted a rich 
vermillion; so much powder have they that it makes them look ghost- 
ly, and so few of them ever smile that they are white slaves in looks 
as well as in acts,and on close inspection, gives them an uncanny ap- 
pearance. With from ten to thirty girls in these often beautifully dec- 
orated windows with the brilliant lighting made many a pretty tab- 



43 

leau at a little distance away from them. The streets are well polic- 
ed, the medical inspection of both the inhabitants and the place is 
under the strictest supervision by the government, which gets a very 
large revenue from the taxation of both the people and the places. 
It was perfectly respectable to go through the district sight seeing as 
there was nothing offensive to the eye or ear of anyone, the de- 
meanor of the girls being sedate and decorous and that of the crowd 
very orderly. Some of the slaves seemed to be very happy in the 
place, others not; some of them say "people kind to them, they do 
not have to work hard like they would at home," others do not like 
the life at all and long to get away. What becomes of them after 
leaving this bondage varies also, many get married others fall to 
still lower estate, and others die young, either by suicide or disease 
Many of them, in fact, the most of them just seem stupid. The great 
reverence with which the parents are held in Japan makes the obey- 
ing of the child a very proper thing in their eyes, and so they are 
sold without protest from the girls,and from that prostitution of this 
sort is not so much of a disgrace in Japan, and that is the reason 
many of them get married after they get out. 

The question whether it is better or worse than our method is 
an open one, we make this sort of vice illegal but permit it to exist 
in sufference in cancer like spots here and there throughout a city 
taking no notice unless the peace is disturbed by a murder, or by 
some wild guys, having no supervision or inspection, closed at times 
by periodical reform waves, but only to open again worse than ever 
when the wave blows over. There in Japan, run openly, made a busi- 
ness under the inspection of the government and held in proper 
check as far as the demand permits 30 thai it is a problem that the fu- 
ture may solve. 

All through Japan in talking with the merchants, officials and 
people in all walks of life, all expressed the great friendly feeling they 
had for the Americans; that they wanted no wars, especially with 
America, they considered us, and wished to In- considered as their 
closes! friends and had always done so. They slated that they were 
debt burdened and wanted peace above all things. There is no doubt 
whatever unless the powers step in and prevent it, that there will 
h' 1 another war with Russia, though it may be at some distant day 
it will be sure to come. They have the feeling in Japan that Russia 
is not satisfied at all and is using ali her enormous power to over- 
whelm Japan and wrest Korea andner control in Manchuria away 
from her. It impressed us all, the great friendliness displayed on all 
sides, by everybody high and low, and the extra pains that are tak- 
en to impress this large party of representative Americans from all 
parts of our great country with that fact, It was one opportunity 
they had to SHOW IT EFFECTUALLY, and they did it very well. 

The dress of the business and professional Jap wh^n he don't 
use American clothes is all the same, a dull grey sort of a Kimona, 
they all look alike in that, but on their arms is generally a small 
emblem of some sort printed in white and black; this I understand 
designates their profession, somewhat after the nature the different 
corps arc designated in one army by vuch emblems as trefoils, cres- 
cents squares, crosses, etc., 



44 

In -Japan, principally at Yokohoma on account of our long stay 
thr.r<\ most of the men of the par ty purchased as many as a half doz- 
en silk, cotton, and linen suits for tropics; the prices ran, made to or- 
der and well made too, from five dollars for cotton, to fifteen for a 
fine pongee silk suit. The ladies also purchased heavily and it is 
said that our ship left a total of about two hundred thousand dollars 
in that city for all sorts of supplies. 

We sailed from Nagasaki, bidding farewell to fair Japan, at ten 
o'clock on the evening of March 11, and when we struck the open sea 
after passing out the protected harbor there was a great scurnngfor 
the staterooms, a heavy blow was ou. 

On Saturday the 12th there was hold a vceting of the Daughters 
of the American Revolution at which the members of the kindred or- 
ganizations were present. Neat souvenirs had been obtained in Japan 
by Mrs. Clark containing a roster of the names of the D. A. R. Sons 
of Revolution and the Society of Cincinnati that were on board, to- 
gether with some other matter of interest. Short talks were made by 
all the men and many of the ladies. An informal dance was held on 
deck in the evening and all enjoyed themselves very much. 



o O o 




YOSH.WARA. TOKYO 



I Vi '#?££*) 




Scenes of Life in the Yoshiwara, Tokio 



45 



CHAPTER VI II. 
CANTON and HONKONG. 

We arrived in Hongkong harbor ai four o'clock on the morning 
of March 15th, and as I had gotten a (-union No. i party ticket, we 
had to get up at four o'clock, to take the boats to go about 80 miles 
up the Pearl river, to the famous city of Canton. Our large party 
had to be divided up into lots of ahundred, the authorities at Canton 
would not permit any more being in the city at one time; and it was 
only after very strenuous work on the part of Mr. Clark, and his aid 
in Hongkong, Mr. Walker, that he got permission to take anybody up 
at all. About the time we had arrived at Yokohoma, we got word of 
the big riot that was going on at Canton, between the soldiers and 
the police; and in a couple of days there had been several hundred kil- 
led and the whole city was in a turmoil; that we must not attempt 
to go there. Mr. Clark insisted because he had advertised a trip to 
Canton and he was going to carry it out if any way possible to do so. 
The matter was thrashed out with the legations at Pekin, but Mr. 
Walker insisted that if they kept our party out they would have to 
keep every foreigner out, which they did not wish to do. Both the 
British and American consuls and the Ministers as well as the Vice- 
roy were opposed but Mr. Walker finally won out and we were per- 
mitted to go up a hundred at a ti me. Reaching there we were to be 
divided into smaller parties of ten and each small party had or was 
to have two soldiers and two policemen as a guard. It would have 
taken only the least little thing to have started a riot and the Viceroy 
knew that if anybody was hurt or killed that that would mean his 
head would go, and that was one of the greatest reasons for his not 
wanting this large party there at this critical time, he not having 
punished all the offenders of the last riot; though Mr. Walker said 
that in the two weeks just proceeding our visit there had been be 
l ween two hundred and two hundred and fifty beheaded on the exe- 
cution grounds for the roiting alone. 

We left Hongkong about half-past five o'clock a. m., for the ride 
up the river against the current, the boat was named the Kinshaw, 
and was a fine one protected with guns against the river pirates, and 
in some cases against their own passengers; as only a couple of 
years ago a couple hundred coolies wont on one of these, boats to go 



46 

up the river, and they arose killed some of the crew and first-class 
passengers and drove the rest off the boat into the river; ran the 
boat ashore, looting the cargo, and burned it to the waters edge, and 
that within twenty miles of a fine city like Hongkong. Of course the 
gunboats came up but all had disappeared with their loot and it was 
like trying to find a needle in a hay stack to locate and identify the 
Chinamen that had done the work. I suppose that this is the reason 
when someone in Canton commits a crime if they do not get the right 
one right away, they take all who were prsent in the neighborhood 
at the time and behead them all, to be sure it is the right one. 

The city of Canton was posted full of notices in Chinese, that if 

anybody harmed a hair of the heads of the Americans everybody in 

the neighborhood would be beheaded. We did not know this at the 

time we were there, it would have made us feel more secure if we 

had. 

We arrived at Canton about noon and immediately tied up to 
the wharf after nearly sinking a few sampams that the river there 
is full of with families living on them; in fact there, are eight hun- 
dred thousand of the three million population of Canton lives on boats 
all of their lives. The city only covers an area about the size of Har- 
risburg, Pa., and yet over three million people, it is estimated, are 
crowded into that space. The streets are extremely narrow and dir- 
ty, houses not over two stories generally, and the people are huddled 
in like rats. 

We after landing between long lines of police, saw on every side 
of us in great crowds those sinister looking faces and black scowling 
eyes; we had to walk in single file through the most crooked, dirtiest, 
most evil smelling streets, I have ever seen, only four to eight feet 
wide from wall to wall. The women of our party most of them were 
half scared to death at seeing the millions of black eyes giving them 
the stony stare, Pavements were rough uneven stone and wet, and 
though only a short distance, a few blocks, to the Shameen (Wal- 
led European Section) some of the party were so badly scared that 
they would not go any farther, got some guides to take them back to 
the boat and there they stayed until it sailed down the river in the 
evening. 

The "Shameen" is an island in the river at Canton belonging to 
the foreign governments, all the consuls and other foreigners have 
to live there; it is surrounded by water, walled partly also, and has 
but two entrances from the city, shut off by heavy iron gates. No 
Chinaman is allowed there unless he has some business, the police be- 
long to the various governments in the Shameen. The party was di- 
vided up into tens as I said before each one in a sedan hair with 
from three to four naked coolies as carriers wearing nothing but a 
loin cloth. Accompanied by the soldiers and the police we started 
on the journey that we thought possibly we would never get back from 
for the least little thing we would incite trouble and then the "foreign 
devils" would get it from all sides; particular care was taken by all 
not to start or cause any trouble. Several amusing things occurred 
that were not amusing to the party interested. One young lady was 
in the last sedan chair in a string of ten, the front carrier rod broke 



47 

and the Chinaman had to set the chair down for a minute or two to 
repair it, the front man went back to get something leaving her as 
she thought sitting down there in the street alone, the rest of her 
party having gone on ahead around a corner; she became nearly stiff 
with fright but not enough to keep her from yelling, which she did 
right lustily, in the meantime the Chinaman came back fixed the chair 
up and started on just as one of the party and the guide came back 
to look for her, to her intense relief. The next time she made the 
guidi; put her in the middle of the part;.- so sin- would not be left a- 
loae again. Another instance wasa young dta; and dumb fellow with 
oar parly, but a very bright one, he got lost from the party and was 
about ready to sit down and cry being badly scared and not able to 
say anything, though it would not have done him any good if he 
could, when one of the soldiers accompanying the party came back 
and found him. 'The soldiers and the police were very careful in 
most cases if you happened to stray a little you would find one 
pulling at your arm and it was best to go with him, he found the 
party quickly, they were in for a heavy punishment if they lost any- 
body, ami they counted up the tens pretty often on a trip. 

The Sedan chair men tramped over those uneven wet stones in 
their bare feet, with their frequently very heavy loads backing around 
Lo get around the sharp narrow corners often hitting pedestrains and 
buildings with the front handles giving you rude jolts, at which you 
could say nothing. 

The streets were as I have said narrow and they were also 
very foul smelling, there being no sewerage whatever; all the filth 
had to be carried out in buckets swung on a stick over the mans' 
shoulders, and we often passed long strings of these men, and some- 
times their buckets would hit the chair and splash, letting off a 
frightful oder; that with the regular smell made it very bad indeed. 
Some of the people who wore woolen clothes did not get all the oder 
out of their clothes for several days. As I said I went on the first 
party, when I came back a lady asked me if she should take her 
smelling salts along I answered yes if she had a bucket to carry 
Lhem in. 

One of the parties coming back to the steamer down near the 
wharf had to step over a man that had just been murdered and who 
[aid there in the street.. 

The Sedan chair carriers were after the graft too, for on many 
occasions they stopped at the farthest end of the city, and sitting 
down would demand tea money, rubbing their stomachs to show 
you what they meant, scaring some of the <ad;es so bad they gave 
them all they had with them; their black looks and naked, sweating, 
scored bodies being enough to scare most any ordinary mortals 
Some of the carriers had huge welts often bleeding on their backs and 
shoulders, where the front and rear cross bars of the chairs cut 
into their shoulders; and you really sort of pitied them, like you did 
the little rickisha men. 

We were carried in the neighborhood of six or seven miles that af- 
ternoon by these men and visited many places really interesting, be- 
sides the shops; one the Temple of the 500 genii, being carved wooden 
images to the number of over five hundred representing nearly all the 



48 % 

prominent people of China as well as depicting all the passions of the 
human soul. Each devotee burned sticks in front of the one they most 
wished to appease at the time. The carving of the statues was very 
good and you could generally understand what they depicted. 

Some of the main business streets, though narrow, had very gor- 
geous buildings with beautiful enamelings and carvings. The shops 
all opened up on the streets, there being no store windows, they were 
all small, even when piled full of valuable silks and carvings etc. One 
thing that interested me was the manufacture of the Kingfisher feath- 
er jewelry. They take a rough form in gold and delicately cut tiny 
pieces off the feathers of the kingfisher glue them down to the gold 
along with gold wire outlines in very pretty designs making really 
beautiful and artistic pins, brooches etc. 

There ivory carvings, embroidery work, rice paper painting and 
the rougher manufactures were also noticed. 

The Chinese are very industrious here and seem to be busy at 
something everywhere, except when we came along when they looked 
at us with their cold stony stare, so different from the smiling Japa- 
nese. The small streets were crowded at all times and it looked as 
you could not possibly get through with the chairs without hitting 
somebody. 

Other interesting points were the cemeteries with their small op- 
en vaults containing coffins setting up on trestles. The coffins are 
verj peculiar looking affairs being hewn out of various logs with four 
sides and two ends all separate but well put together and very heavy, 
some of them of fine sandal and other- expensive woods, costing as 
much as three thousand dollars each with their carvings and all, 
these wei e for the very wealthy, others for the poorer classes were 
much cheaper and packed together in the>e small places. These 
places or vaults were rented for short times arid if the rent was 
pot paid the bodies were done away with and others took their places 
Candles were burning and offerings su.'iounded the coffin in shape of 
food, drink, etc., to help them along to the "happy hunting grounds" 
as the Indians say. 

The execution ground is one of the greatest fascinations to the 
tourist, the sense of the morbid taking them there. I was informed by 
Mr. Walker, that in the neighborhood of a million had had their 
h^ads struck off there since 1850, a sort of a record has been kept 
since then but goodness knows how many before that time. The head 
executioner gets paid only for a good clean cut job, must take the 
head off at one stroke. The executions always take place in the after 
noons and the bodies and heads are left lying until the next morning 
as an object lesson, afterwards they are thrown into quicklime pits. 
As many as fifty at a time have had their heads cut off one man 
doing all the work. None of our party saw an execution but some 
got there early in the morning and saw the bodies before they were 
removed. The orders were from the viceroy to keep us away from 
there if possible and in most cases the guides succeeded. 

In passing up the river Pearl to Canton many tall stone struct- 
ures were noticed looming up over everything; and on inquiry we 
found that they were pawnshops and are built strong to protect the 
goods stored in them, not only against the elements, but against as- 




T3 
C 
3 
O 
l-i 

O 

c 
o 



49 



saull by mobs; for in times of trouble the pawnshops with their rich 
stores would be quickly looted if they were not prepared to with- 
stand assault. The pawnshops are well patronized though one of the 
Chinese customs helps them along considerably; that is once a year 
at New \ ears every Chinaman must pay his debts and those who have 
not the money must sell or pawn th^ir posessions to get it, a good 
thing lor many Americans to fol low. 



The following poem by Mr. L. A. Sherman is very apropos of our 
trip to Honkong and Canton and was read at one of the Traveller's 
Club meetings. 

HONG KONG and CANTON. 

To the rugged isle of Hong Kong, 

Once the rendezvous of pirates, 
Wrung from China by the Briton, 

Made a garden at his order, 
Come we next on our long journey. 

At its top a glorious vista, 
Man's and Nature's cyclorama, 

Lies within the range of vision. 
Lower peaks and lovely valleys, 

With the city far below them; 
And beyond a noble harbor, 

Dotted o'er with boats and steamers. 
All around the isle of China, 

Ocean passage-ways between them; 
Far away the open ocean, 

And a range of rugged mountains. 
Hardly elsewhere may we witness 

Grander view than that from Hong Kong, 
When the sky is free from vapors. 

Sailing up the famed pearl river, 
Charming views arise before us, 

Till we come to Canton city, 
Come where thousands live in house boats, 

Wondrous scenes are these we witness. 
In the narrow streets of Canton 

Who would wonder who would linger,- 
Breathe the ordes most oppressive? 

Glad to enter, glad to leave them, 
Is the verdict universal. 



rt«J Shar /' een m Canton is a piece of Europe set down in this 
strange country, with its broad avenue. Maed with fine trees, its fine 
st-omj modern houses and stores, and the few Chinamen seen, makes 

ive ciT ^ t0 Y0U When yOU cruss over the brid ^ e int0 the na- 



50 
The shops gen erally ran in groups all the shoe stores being to- 
gether, same, way with the jewelry, clothing.and other kinds of busi- 
ness. The shop portions were bu ilt of brick and often had two stor- 
ies the second story being a much better show room. Some of the 
richer shops you went into through entrances that were always closed 
with heavy barred gates and kept closed; but would be opened for 
you by the watchman if you wished to get in and be closed after you, 
this was evidently done to keep out robbers who are very bold in 
Canton. 

You soon become convinced that the writers who describe Canton 
as the strangest and most wonderful city in the world, could scarcely 
have exaggerated in the least. Canton is wonderful. We do not see 
how the most experienced and blase traveler in the world can de- 
cide otherwise. But whatever there is in it that is attractive, is so lost 
in the mass that is repulsive and pitiful and disgusting, that one 
needs time and patience to search it out. 

Adultery is considered the greatest crime in China as I understand 
it, and for that the penalty is the hundred cuttings. It consists of 
first cutting off the joints at the fingers and toes piece by piece 
then the nose, and eyelids, lips and so on; keeping away from any vital 
points of the body until finally the last cutting is the taking out of 
the heart; it takes about 20 minutes so that a victim has not the time 
to die from loss of blood, and it is certainly a horrible torturing death 
T would like if I had the space to relate many of the things I heard 
and saw, about and in Canton but it would make a book of itself, On 
the way up we passed many interesting ruins of old forts which had 
to be used in the days of the pirates, a few pirate ships would come 
up the river and kill and loot and escape. The old cannon are there 
yet, making interesting relics. Piracy is somewhat strong on the river 
even now despite the strictures and protection. Every nation has 
small river gunboats there to help prevent it and all the heavily la- 
den junks and other boats can be seen with their cannon mounted 
fore and aft ready to repel invad eis. 

The wall around Canton is well preserved and is about six 
miles long, v. ilhout the river front so that you can get an idea of the 
small size of the place for the enormous population it contains 

/The markets are full of skinned cats, dogs, rats, etc., but the fish 
were sold you alive, in the tubs filled with water, and killed for you 
and cleaned on the spot. 

In the rear of every shop there is a Buddha and Shrine, with joss 
sticks burning, some of them very elaborate. The flowery or nine 
story pagoda is also interesting having been built fourteen hundred 
years before. 

We left Canton at five o'clock and had a delightful moonlight 
ride down the river, the phospheroscent glow when the boat cut the 
water out into the waves making a fine sight, the light made by it 
you could see to read a paper with. Tt was the brightest I have ever 
s^en. We were all glad to get back to the ship about midnight. Pret- 
ty fair meals were served us on the boat going up and down the 
river, by Chinamen. 

Hongkong is an island on the coast of China in the mouth of the 
Pearl river ceded by treaty to Great Britain and is a great commer- 



cial port of which the principal city is named Victoria, though near 
ly everybody speaks of Hongkong meaning the city of Victoria. It 
is a beautifully laid out city with wide streets, mostly modern build- 
ings, and fine stores The harbor is a famous one and well protect- 
ed by the high hills on both sides of the bay. It reaches in twenty 
miles from the sea being from one to five miles wide. They have no 
docks for large vessels, but plenty of good anchorage. 

The city is built up the hill from the bay, about eight miles from 
the ocean and has many beautiful homes running clear up to the top 
of the "Peak," access to which is had by a wirerope tramway. The 
view of the harbor, and the surrounding country from the top of the 
"Peak" as it is called is magnificient and well worth the visit alone. 

Chinese are the principal part of the population and are here an 
industrious and quiet people. The city being a British one is well po- 
liced, clean and healthy, with a good water supply and rather up 
to date, and contains several fine hotels. 

I had the great pleasure of meeting a Mr. Geo. G. Watkins, a very 
high Mason and deputy for South China, a 33* and member of the 
Royal Order of Scotland. I had also the pleasure of visiting an En- 
glish chartered lodge in Hongkong the work is somewhat different in 
details, the salient parts being the same as ours. 

There are no horses on the island, at least we did not see any, 
and they told us six Chinamen could do more work for less money than 
a horse. The large loads they were pulling like dray horses, made that 
look very possible. 

The botanical gardens are very pretty with their tropical plants 
and winding drives. There are very many beautiful sea and landscapes 
on nearly all parts of the island and a ride for several miles out a- 
long the shore on a trolley is very interesting. The shops are always 
a place of interest to the foreigner most all the wares of all the sur- 
rounding countries for a thousand miles radius being on sale, as well 
as European and American goods 



52 



CHAPTER IX. 

THE PHILIPPINES. 

On the evening of Friday, March 18th we left Hongkong for Ma- 
nilla our next stopping place, it only required two days for the 
trip, the going being nearly due south. It was a beautiful night, and 
the ride down the harbor for the two hours it took was well worth 
remembering, the moon being full with the phosphorescent waters, 
and the lights of the harbor, the flashing of the light houses, and all 
made it very impressive indeed On Saturday evening we had a 
dance on deck which was very much enjoyed. As we were going south 
rapidly, it began getting much warmer and the linen suits quickly ap- 
peared; so that by the time we arrived in Manila harbor on Sunday 
afternoon most of the men had their light suits on, and they were 
needed. The ride down along the coast of Luzon Sunday morning was 
very fine indeed and a pretty sight with the changing coast line. 
We passed Corrigedor Island about two o'clock in the afternoon and 
all were very much interested in the extensive fortification works 
the United States Government were o.-ccting there. It is said that it 
wiU be impregnable for any ships to ^ass the big guns, and the sub- 
marine mines, without being total ly annihilated, if the forts are 
properly manned. The north channel is only about a mile wide and 
the south channel about six miles wide, one on either side of Cor- 
rigedor Island with a small fortified island midway in the south chan- 
nel. It is said it will be the smallest fort m the world and is I be- 
lieve, called Fort Drum, the rock over which it is located is but 176 
feet long. Its low lying, nearly level with the water on which will 
be momited two massive turrets with the largest guns. 

About four o'clock we approached the breakwater for Manila har- 
bor, and were met outside by a dozen launches and tug boats gaily 
decorated with flags and bunting two of them having bands play- 
ing, The boats went around the ships exchanging greetings back 
and forth until the quarantine and custom ol'lisials had finished their 
duty, and ihen we took the pilot on; who by the way was the same 
person who took Dewey into Manila Bay on that memorable night. 

As we went through the narrow en l: ran .ie inside the breakwater the 
mud was stirred up; this being the laigest draft vessel that had ever 



53 

ca.T.e into the harbor. The wharf was noticed in the distance, crowd- 
ed to the edge with people already giving us a ctteering welcome and 
we soon pulled into the dock alongside I be wharf. By some mistake 
the boat crashed into the piles of the wharf which were concrete 
and snapped three of them as if they bad been made of pine wood. 
That made a little delay for us getting tied up,, cost the Hamburg 
American Co., some money; and the people on the wharf thought 
an earthquake had happened it shook so, though we did not feel 
the shock on the ship at all. 

It was about five o'clock when (he gang-plank was finally let down 
and we got off onto the wharf amid the greetings of about six thou 
?and people. There we were met by the Mayor Felix M. Ro xas and 
prominent citizens and an address of welcome delivered and answer- 
ed to. In the interval the famous Philipino, Constabulary band play- 
ed fine music. The wharf had been divided off by the various 
state committees, where people in the Philipines from their slate 
w r ere to welcome us and get introduced. Some states were more en 
terprising than others having badges, and had hustlers among them 
who took their own state people in automobiles, and showed them 
the city, and gave them various receptions etc., in fine style. Out- 
side the wharf is located the Lunela, so called, a large body of ground 
made by the U. S. Government by filling up the low swamp near 
the waters edge, with the materia dredged from the harbor; making 
a fine body of ground on which «an be built warehouses etc., in 
the future. At present it is used by the government for the camp- 
ing of the various regiments as they come and go and for manoe- 
uvcrs, also part is fixed up as a park,. 

On this ground waiting for us there were a great number of ve- 
hicles of all kinds that had beei gathered from everywhere rang- 
ing from the police patrol and government quartermasters wagons 
to the finest autos. 

We were taken in these and driven around the town for awhile. 
Some of the more sporting members of the ship drove at once out to 
where the cock fighting was going on but was about over when they 
arrived there. I drove to the hotel and there found out, it being Palm 
Sunday, that the church parade was one of the events of the year held 
at six o'clock in the evening. I hurried over to the old town and 
just saw the last of the procession It was very picturesque they had 
flowers in great profusion made u| into fine boquets, some into fan- 
tastic creations that together with the gayly dressed Filipinos, helped 
to make the a novel and curious picture. 

The early part of the evening, a band concert was given on the 
Luneta, and later a very large number went to what they call the 
Opera House where a mixed entertainment was had. An address by 
Senor Ponciano Reyes was very well made; asking to give the 
Filipinos a chance, being the sum and substance of it. The ad- 
dress was responded to by Dr. Lorenzo, for our party. The program 
consisted of vocal and instrumenta music, some of it really very fine; 
and was lastly followed by a play written and acted by Filipinos, but 
it was somewhat amateurish. 

We had our dinner at the Ho tel La France earlier in the even- 
ing, and it was a very good one indeed, I was very much surprised at 



54 

the variety and the good cooking. There was many native dishes most 
of them we enjoyed very much; we had begun to eat a good many cur- 
ried things now as it helped to ke ep your liver in order; it is a thing 
that goes wrong easy, and gives the north man the most trouble, when 
in the tropics, curries being good for it. 

The American government has accomplished much for the city 
since the occupation; making it a fine healthy place with pure water, 
drainage, fire and police protection and sanitary work. The new docks 
are fine ones and more will be built, the harbor has been deepened for 
the largest draft boats, so commerce is coming that way; and there is 
really a bright future before the country, with fair treatment from 
United States. With aid for devel opment, it will soon become one of 
our most valued posessions, and one of such great value that I would 
strongly recommend the United States to hold and make good. It is 
one of the key places for the trade with the Orient being within one 
thousand miles centre of the most populated territory on the globe, 
and where all our new markets fro m the outside must come, for our 
manufacturing interests. 

There is an enormous amount of fertile territory that a later gen- 
eration of the natives can be taught how to make and multiply, but 
at present the main body of the Filipinos are not a very good work- 
ing class; the bane of that country at the present time, being cock 
fighting and gambling, and until they are broken away from that, 
will not be of very much use. 

I will try and give you a little description of the cock fighting 
that helps make the men in the country so worthless, they take much 
better care of their fighting cocks than they do their own children, 
giving them the food first and the child gets the rest. Gockfighting is 
only permitted on holidays, and Sundays but they generally manage 
to have some sort of a holiday, for some one of the numerous towns 
around Manilla, about all the time. The cocks are armed in so deadly 
a manner that their is really not much fighting, it being over in a few 
seconds; the spurs instead of being pointed spines are long sharp 
blades, with razor edges and often one blow will partly sever a wing 
or a leg. The pit is a raised platform surrounded by a railing with the 
seats all around it in tiers behind an, open space surrounded the pit. 
in which the betters stand and mak their bets. Before the fight be- 
gins all the owners bring their game cocks in the ring and arrange the 
fights and the betting and then the gamblers get busy shaking their 
money around and all talking at once but everything seems to be 
peaceable, no disputes were noticed. There was occasional betting on 
the seats, but nine-tenths of it was done in the betting ring. Quiet 
reigned during the fight, but pandemonium broke loose as soon as one 
of the birds was beaten or killed and until the next fight was on. 

It was a strange wierd scene under the dim lights, the motley 
crowd of gamblers being Chinese, Spaniards, Filipinos and some few 
other nationalities; all talking and shouting in their own languages, 
but seeming to understand the money and betting part of it. But few 
women were noticed this evening at the fight, though they say a great 
many attend at times. 

There were many disgusting things in regard to eating among the 



55 

Japs, Chinese, and even the Filipinos had some, that I think had bet- 
ter be left out of mentioning, as it would leave a bad taste in the 
mouth of the reader. 

As a whole, they are not fit subjects for self government; and 
the United States would be doing them an injury, to give it to them 
for several generations to come. There are a few bright intelligent 
men among them and it is all right to have them assist in the gov- 
erning of the country, so that they will learn progressive and uplift- 
ing methods of modern government, but those men live mostly in Ma- 
nilla. The police of Manilla are largely United States ex-soldiers 
and the Constabulary, the latter have become a pretty fine body of 
local soldiers all officered by Americans. 

Vice-Governor Gilbert is very popular and a very fine fellow and 
it is hoped in Manilla, that he will be appointed the next Governor, as 
the present one is not well liked. 

The old walled city bordering on the river and the Luneta is only 
a small part of the present city which contains nearly three 
hundred thousand population. The walls are nearly all intact, the 
buildings inside, of the old style, the streets narrow; they contain the 
old churches which are the relics of the Catholic days, when the 
church owned so much of the country, they are quaint and interesting. 
The whole appearance of the old city is of four centuries ago; the 
main city outside of the walls is much more modern, with fine build- 
ings, wide streets, parks, street car lines, and modern in nearly every 
ways. The Escolta, the main business street has many fine stores of 
all sorts, and there are excellent banking facilities. The one place that at 
traded our crowd the most, and which did a rushing business was 
Clark's ice cream soda place; he had all the modern American Soda 
facilities of the best, and served the most delicious drinks of all 
sorts, it was crowded from morning until night. It is said that he has 
made along with his speculations, since he came there, ten or twelve 
years ago, about half a million dol lars, the most of it being from this 
soda fountain. 

The money of the islands is the peso, the silver piece corres- 
ponding in size to our dollar but being of the value of only fifty 
cents, it is divided into 100 centavos there being all the smaller coinage 
pieces necessary, corresponding to ours in bronze, nickel and silver. 
The funny thing about it was if you threw down an American silver 
dollar for a purchase amounting to one peso (fifty cents our money) 
you got the same sized silver piece back, but it was a peso. 

The natives there are experts on weaving the fine Manilla hats, 
and plenty of them came around the hotel with them; with prices 
ranging from two to twenty five pesos for a hat; they were mostly 
worked double and a fine double one could be gotten for two dollars 
that would weigh but one and a half ounces. They are sold by the na- 
tives unblocked , of course, but they rarely block their hats there; just 
tie a fancy or black ribbon around them to fit the size of the head, 
and you wear them that way very comfortably. 

Manila has a strangely cosmopolitian population nearly every 
country having some representative there. The Germans have great 
commercial interests, they being the principal owners of the big cigar 
factories. 



56 

The sunsets was one of the finest things that attracted my atten- 
tion, being a strange riot of ever changing colors; everything in the 
rainbow represented with all its varying shades and colors, from 
off the bridge looking down the Pasig river with its variety of craft, the 
walls of the old city, the towers of the churches, the quaintness of 
some of the other structures along the river all in the foreground; and 
the ocean or rather bay in the distance made it a picture never to 
be forgotten. 

On Monday morning the 21st of March we took a boat ride up the 
Pasig river for about twelve miles to Fort McKinley, it is the fine 
American Barracks on the only high ground within miles of the city; 
we thoroughly enjoyed the ride, passing so many places of interest, 
and the various bridges where the most of the fighting of the Philip- 
pine insurrection took place. The river is not a long one and really 
seems to be more of an arm of the bay, there is a great deal of traffic 
on it in the limits of the city; and many of the princpial buildings 
and factories are located along its shores. It happened to be wash-day 
for the natives, and along the banks we saw them beating the clothes 
on the stones to get them clean, we also saw plenty of the water 
buffalo all the way along the river, they are used very much for 
draft animals by the natives. 

In the afternoon we took drives all over the city, visiting the big 
cigar factories, where in one we saw three thousand Philipinos mak- 
ing cigars and cigarettes by machinery-; mostly everything was very 
neat and clean, the girl packers ltd cigarette makers seemed to be 
very expert. We were very nicely received by the manager and when 
we left were presented with asmall box of cigars, they were very good. 
Manilla has its small Chinatown with narrow streets, its Japanese 
quarters with belter streets; and in the native quarters the streets 
are well laid out and drained, though the habitations are rather poor 
structures. I called on acting Governor Gilbert who is a Shriner and 
spent a very pleasant hour talking to him in his office. He seems to 
thoroughly understand the natives and how to handle them and thinks 
there is a good future for the islands with proper care. 

The most interesting sight of all in the modern way, was the fa- 
mous Bilibid prison, it covers 17 acres of ground with its fifty odd 
buildings, and can accommodate fiv thousand prisoners; it is said to be 
the largest in the world, and it is certainly one of the best ones in 
the world. The natives are treated kindly, they are taught trades, 
given wholesome food and military exercise and when out on probation 
are given positions and it is said that over seventy per cent of 
them have become useful citizens after their discharge. They have 
large colonies in the other islands where they are taken, and can live 
on probation having their own local government, without much super 
vision, being on their parole honor, and very little trouble has ever 
been had since the new method of treatment. They have their own 
day and night schools in the prison run mostly by the prisoners 
themselves. It is claimed to be the model prison of the w T orld. They 
have a place where part of the goods they make, of all sorts, are 
sold for their benefit so that a good worker can make money on 
his own account and leaves the prison with his head up, and be indepe- 
ndent thereafter and without temptation. 




Mellon 



Filipino Belles 



57 

We visited the prison about half past four o'clock, and were tak- 
en in squads up a spiral iron stairway through several sets of iron 
gates worked from a central tower that had protecting magazine guns, 
and then out over a narrow walk on top of a wall to the roof of 
the central tower of the prison and there witnessed one of the great- 
est sights I have ever seen. The different dormitories all radiate 
out from this centre so that all parts of the yard can be seen at a 
glance. The prison band was stationed in one of the yards and at a 
bell signal, began playing and from every building there came march- 
ing companies of prisoners in regular order; they were put through 
a setting up drill of the military and various inarching formations, 
and given about half hours exercise in this manner. Then they were 
ali marched to then* quarters got their eating utensils, and then to 
the places where their food was given them, and in just seven min- 
utes, every one of those five thousand prisoners had been given their 
evening supper and were all in their dormitories and then is when 
they had the laugh on us. At just that moment a very heavy rain 
started, the place where we were had no roof covering on it; there 
were about one hundred and fifty of us on this roof with a long nar-» 
row open walk to travel to get to the gates and go down in the pris- 
on. Only about fifteen could get through at a time so that nearly 
every one of us got wet, and many to the skin, as the rains in 
that country have considerable water in them. But it was a sight I 
would not have missed for all the ducking. 

It was frightfully hot in the middle of the day, and the humid- 
ity being high made it seem more so, but the evenings were fairly 
cool compared to the heat of the day. 

One of the most delightful events of our visit occurred Monday 
evening, beginning about nine o'clock. The Hippodrome on the carni- 
val grounds was a huge amphitheatre that was capable of seating a- 
bout thirty thousand people; the centre of the seating had been re- 
served for the Cleveland party, the government officials and American 
officers, and the rest of the seating was pretty well filled with the peo- 
ple of the town. There was an open plot in front of the seats and 
to the rear of that was the big exhibition platform, backed by a large 
shell shaped affair, and in it was seated the splendid Constabulary 
Band that did such fine work at the St. Louis World's Fair. They 
are led by a negro who received his musical education in the Boston 
Conservatory of music. The band contained about sixty pieces and 
their music was certainly fine. They played many selections. The 
most interesting event of the evening was the singing of American pa- 
triotic songs in English by five thousand Filipino school children, 
led by some of the American lady teachers; it was really a thrilling 
sight to see those children and hear those childish voices singing the 
good American airs, and waving American flags; ten thousand miles 
away from home. This was followed by a flag drill by a squad of the 
children; and then a very creditable acrobatic performance by the Pal- 
omar Circus troup. 

Vice Governor Gilbert assisted by the Alcade and other members 
of the Reception committee, held a reception to the tourists. Dancing 
to the exellent music of the band was indulged in until midnight, and 
we had a very good time indeed; the music was so good that it made 



58 , 1 

you dance; though the platform was damp and muddy from the af- 
ternoon rain and the tramping over it by many feet, it did not seem 
to dampen the ardor of the dancers in any way whatever. iTherewere 
many of the young army officers of the American occupation present 
and they were very glad to get acquainted with our pretty Amercau 
girls on the Cleveland, there being so few on the islands. It was a 
very enjoyable affair all through. 

On Tuesday we shopped aroundthe city and took in more of the 
sights to be seen before sailing at four o'clock in the afternoon. Just 
before that I had the pleasure of meeting Lieut. James Taylor of 
the 12lh Infantry who comes from my home, and lunched with him at 
the fine Army and navy Club, the officers have in the old walled city. 
He had missed me on account of the large crowd on landing on Sun- 
day afternoon and also when he had called at the ship on Monday. 
T was very glad to see him, as he was me and we spent several hours 
talking together and sightseeing, be showing me some of the points 
of interest I had not seen before. 

One of the best known fruits of the Phillipines is the mango, 
something of a cross between a canteloupe and a plum is the best 
description I can give of it, being about the size of a canteloupe with 
a large centre seed like a plum and the meat a cross between. When 
they are just ripe they are very delicious and also very juicy with 
a peculiarly sweet flavor and to be thoroughly enjoyed should be eaten 
only in a bathtub; great care must be taken in seeing that they are 
not too green or too ripe or they will cause you a large amount of 
internal troubles. On Wednesday night we had a pineapple and man- 
go party on the aft hurricane deck given by Mr. Ira Smith and con- 
siderable sport was had. 

This poem of the Phillipines is also by Mr. Sherman. 

IN THE PHILLIPINES. 

When Dewey's brave squadron sailed into the bay 

Of harassed Manilla, one morning in May, 
He gave to a people, by Spain long oppressed, 

A charter of freedom, to work out their best; 
While our nation assumed one more burden to bear, 

Of the white man's high duty accepting its share. 
Right well have that duty and work been pursued: 

Insurrection was crushed and rebellion subdued; 
And everywhere order and law are maintained 

For a people in self ruling yet to be trained. 
We hail our proud flag as we sail up the bay, 

As it floats o'er Manilla. Most fair is the day, 
And warm is the welcome extended us here. 

Long shall we remember these days of good cheer. 



59 



CHAPTER X. 
OFF FOR BORNEO and ACROSS THE EQUATOR. 

On the 21st of March at four o'clock we cast loose from the pier 
which was crowded with several thousand of our newly made friends 
who came to wave us adieu; sorry to see us depart as we were sorry 
to go, having had a very pleasant time in our island posessions. The 
bands were playing and several launches accompanied us down the 
bay for some distance. We were headed for the well known island 
of Borneo, that has been the desire f so many to visit from their youth 
ful days. On the way down the bay we passed near to Cavite and 
close to where Dewey did so much damage to the Spanish and annihil- 
ated their fleet, and then we went on out the South passage off Cor- 
regidor Island to the open sea, the same passage through which 
Dewey had come into the bay over the torpedoes. 

We continued our going south and it became pretty warm, my 
stateroom being poorly ventilated I took my rug and pillow, and put- 
ting on my pajamas and bath robe went on deck and slept all night, 
and enjoyed it so much that I slept on deck all the rest of the time I 
was on the Cleveland. Though we had to get up at six o'clock, the 
swimming tank had been erected forward and filled with clean sea 
water, and a visit to that for a half an hour every morning after 
arising, made you feel like a lark and fine for the rest of the day. 
I slept on the aft hurricane deck under the canvas sun cover that 
was kept on all the time so that you did not get much of the cinder 
and it also kept off the few rain squalls we had. At Borneo I bought 
a double woven flexible bamboo mat and at Batavia a wicker reclin- 
ing chair and thereafter was comfortable the rest of the voyage. In 
the tropics the important thing is to cover your stomach with some- 
thing warm when sleeping if you do not you will get some sort of 
intestinal troublesthat is often dangerous, so I used to throw my 
bathrobe around my stomach and with no other cover except my sleep 
ing garments, except possibly a few nights that a cool breeze would 
strike up when I threw the other half of the bamboo mat over me. 

You could buy abdominal bandages in the stores and many did so 
wearing them constantly, without a doubt preventing much of the sick- 
ness usual in the tropics. 

On Friday the 28th of March we arrived in Victoria Harbor at 
Labaun one of the islands of the Borneo Group. It is off the west 



60 

coast of the main island of Borneo and has an area of about thirty 
square miles. It is separated from the mainland by a rocky but navi- 
gable channel and is about half way between Manilla on the north- 
east and Singapore to the Southwest and a half way stopping point 
for coaling, and a sort of a hospitable half way inn for ships sailing 
between these points; a port of shelter for hurricanes and for re- 
pairs of small kinds needed in a hurry. The island is mountainous 
and has a rich soil, but somehow in the freakishness of development 
in this isolated quarter of the world it has not pressed forward 
with the activity its location and resources warrant. 

It posesses a fine harbor and a second harbor which is nothing 
extra but serviceable. The water supply is good and there are mines 
with abundant coal of a fair steaming grade. The Sultan of Borneo 
ceded the island to Great Brittain in 1846, and 1892 the island passed 
under the commercial control of the British North Borneo Compa- 
ny. The population is about ten or eleven thousand Malays and 
Chinese. Some day the many advantages of Labaun will be apprecia- 
ted and then it will come to the front, but at present it is practical- 
ly marooned in the sea of commerce; and with the Dyaks and head- 
hunters at its back, and a wild country not far distant in the main- 
land, it is a spot to appeal to the traveller hunting for the wild and 
unknown. The island is named Labaun, the harbor Victoria har- 
bor, and the small town named Victoria. Three large weather-beaten 
docks are there and at one of them we landed in tenders. The loose 
planks and boards and generally run down appearance showed that some 
thing was amiss. Low open sheds were at the end of the docks and 
ran along the beach for a distance evidently well stocked and behind 
them ran the main street of the town which for over a half mlie 
stretched away parallel to the water. At first the street is lined a-- 
long the seaward side by warehous es and then it leads along a slender 
grove of palms which fringe a nar row beach. In the other directions 
beyond the docks is a long coal shed and behind it were many hundreds 
and probably thousands of tons of coal, Beyond the coal an inlet stud- 
ed with native huts of bamboo poles and banana leaves and thatched 
with palmetto leaves and fibre. Still further away was the wood- 
land and beyond that the jungle. I enter details a little about the coun- 
try because you do not see much about it in encyclopedias or else- 
where. The few English people in the place were glad to see us and 
the whole town took a holiday. We landed about eight o'clock and soon 
ran over the place looking for shops with curios, finding few, but 
found beyond that many of the natives had many curios things to 
sell in the shape of baskets, beads, w arknives and many other implem- 
ents etc., on which exorbitant prices were put for our benefit, and from 
which a harvest was reaped despite the fact that many would not pay 
the prices asked. 

We bought one shop all out of bamboo mats which we found such 
a good thing to put under the sheets of the bunks and to sleep on, 
and under, on the decks. They were soft and pliable and woven 
closely and of several layers thickness I bought the first one and set 
the price at about eighty-cents our money, and though they often got 
more, most only had to pay that sum that knew what the price had 
been made. . 




a 

3 
O 
u 

o 



61 

The streets were grass grown with a sort of a track made by the 
few bullock carts that travelled it in a day, and really was proud to 
boast of a concrete gutter on the one side of the street, but of what 
use it was except a receptable for rubbish I could not see. There was 
not a hotel in the place to the great disappointment of many on the 
ship who had the label or "sticker" craze and if there had of been one 
the proprietor could have reaped a harvest with most any price for the 
stickers from such an out of the way part of the world. The fact 
of it was that our crowd cleaned all the hotels wherever we went out of 
their labels and stickers, they would certainly get well advertised 
from the way they were distributed all over the United States. 

There were no rickishas or other methods of conveyance to be 
hired and all had to tramp in the sun, though a few bullock carts 
were in evidence they were so aw fully slow that it was much easier 
to walk. A minature railroad ran out about six miles to the coal 
mines and the trains ran so slow anybody could jump on them. 

Nearly everybody went to the post office and they were literally 
swamped and got good prices for their cards they had on sale and 
most all were mailed from there, our ship took the mail to Singa- 
pore, as it might be many moons before another ship that would take 
mail would come along. 

We thought the weather was very hot here but they told us that 
it happened to be one of their delightful cool days and we wondered 
whether they were "joshing us" or not and were glad that it was not 
one of their other days. It must be a very lonely place indeed for the 
for the few whites there. 

After through strolling around the place we went out to a sort of 
a fair ground and track they had on which a programme of sports 
was carried out that had been arranged for our benefit. There was 
considerable sport, as Mr. Clark had arranged for a lot of natives to be 
brought from the interior, they being mostly the Dyaks or head hunt- 
ers and gave contests in knife and spear throwing, Low and a^row 
shooting, wood chopping, running buffalo races that did not make any 
mile a minute speed for if they had to go a mile they would have been 
going yet I am afraid; cocoanut husking, blow pipe shooting and the 
various native dances all depicting something but at even which many 
of us could not make guesses. 

The head hunters dance which was first on the programme was 
very grotesque. From a sort of a dressing room under what would be 
called the judges stand two brown brothers came out in silk breech 
clouts that were remiss in length and gaudy yellow scarfs and pro- 
tected by a bark shield and a spear. An orchestra of natives sat 
cross legged on the turf and banged on tom-toms and crashed hollow 
symbals and played on something that might be called a musical in- 
strument but instrument of torture would be better, the name is un- 
known. The two dancers circled around each other prancing and ca- 
vorting, one making bad naughty faces, and the other glaring back 
defiance. This they did for some minutes while the spectators bak- 
ed in the sunlight. Next the two brown brothers drew their creases 
and stuck their spears in the turf. They called out once in a queer 
squeak and fell to shouting. In a minute or two the tumult and 
shouting died, and the Dyaks faded away in the crowd. Their spear 



62 

throwing was not very good but their blow shooting with sumpitans 
as they are called, was very good often hitting the small targets, they 
are hollow reeds, about seven feet long. 

The other natives who did the dancing for us were not bothered 
much with clothes; a few feathers in the hair, some rings on their fing- 
ers and toes, and bracelets on their arms and some with feathers around 
their waists comprised their full dress suits. Even the usual native 
plug hat was not in evidence as being part of their dress here, though 
we afterwards saw a couple of a vintage before the war on some oth- 
er of the natives. 

A good many of the things performed by the natives could have 
been seen at the "Wild Men of Borneo" villages at the various World' 
Expositions but it had the flavor here of being the real thing on their 
own ground. There were a couple of jugglers also who did some of the 
well known and old time tricks with snakes and plants etc. 

The natives strongly objected to having their pictures taken and 
and it took a great deal of coercing and threatening to get them to 
stand up before the large number of camera fiends who pointed their 
harmless guns at them. Many of the fiends obtained some very in- 
teresting pictures. 

The money in use here was the same as would be used at the 
Straits Settlements in which Singapore is situated, it being a British 
colony, the Governor of the Straits having jurisdiction over these 
islands. The Straits dollar is worth about 68 cents in our money and 
is divided up into one hundred cents so that a cent is worth about two- 
thirds of a cent with us. It is cal led dollar and cents the same names 
and has the usual small coinage, The same names for the money and 
the unequal amount made it very difficult for many of our people to 
get it straight in their minds. The stamps for the mail are the same 
as the Straits also.. 

We left this interesting isle in the afternoon and continued our 
journey southward toward the island of Java our next stop on the 
itinerary. 

We were all very much distressed to receive the news, when we 
returned to the ship, of the sudden death in New York of the daugh- 
ter of Dr. Lorenz and his wife, who had just received the sad news 
and it put somewhat of a damper on the passengers as the Doctor and 
his wife were very much liked. Everybody sympathized with them 
in their bereavement especially as they had done so much to make our 
journey a pleasant one. To show the strangeness of fate, at our next 
mail port Singapore about ten days after he received a letter from 
her speaking of how well she was etc., and this some time after re- 
ceiving the cablegram of her death. 

During the time we were in the tropics the lectures and Travellers 
Club meetings were held on the dec k and were well attended as near- 
ly everybody lived on deck the most of the time, the staterooms were 
somqwhat close, the Captain and those who had been over the route 
before said we had had exceptionally fine weather, very few were ill 
and those minor troubles from not taking proper care of themselves 
I had begun taking small quantities of quinine shortly after leaving 
HongKong and I advise everybody to do so going from the north to 
those countries. I had no trouble whatever except a little with my 



63 

liver but a dose or so of calomel and Hunyadi water soon made that 
all right. Care must be used in eating fruits of the tropics to get on- 
ly the inside or meat and avoid the outside or skin as that is where 
the danger of the fevers principally lie. 

On board the ship we had no mosquitoes whatever, not even when 
we landed in ports did they get on the ship very much, and then a 
small bottle of citronella oil, which can be gotten at nearly any drug- 
store, with a few drops rubbed into the hands and rubbed over the ex- 
posed parts prevented them or other insects from biting you and thus 
giving you fever germs. 

On Sunday was Easter day and every table had a big basket of hard 
boiled colored eggs on it in a sort of a nest and a very large goose made 
out of stearine or white tallow and decorated with flowers, and at 
the evening dinner we had another nice specially planned and print- 
ed menu 

The great event of the Easter Sunday, was the celebrating of 
the crossing the equator, which had occurred early in the morning of 
that day, and was to be appropriately celebrated in the afternoon, at 
which time all who had never before been properly baptised by King 
Neptune, were to receive that sacred sea right. Several days before 
Chief Officer Kruse of the ship had asked me if I would get volun- 
teers to be initiated by Father Neptune as it would take too long to 
go through with all the large passenger list in the proper fashion, 
and therefore a few would have to do duty for them all. I immediate- 
ly volunteered and put my name down on the list and went around 
among the passengers and obtained about thirty, fifteen girls, and fif- 
teen men, my only warning to them being to put on your eld clothes, 
that you did not mind a ducking in, at two o'clock on Sunday after- 
noon. 

On Saturday night about nine o'clock a great noise was heard at 
the bow of the ship, and a blueish green light burned down in front 
of the bow that was followed by a hoarse hail, "Cleveland Ahoy" an- 
swered by the Captain with "What do you wish and who are you" 
back came the answer "I am the representative of Neptune whose 
domain you are approaching and wish to board you." "Come ahead' 
was the answer in German, and down the deck with big strides came a 
huge fellow with long whiskers and hair of tow, tarpaulin coated, and 
went up on the promenade deck where the Captain and a large 
crowd of passengers were assembled. He stated that King Neptune 
had sent him to notify us that he would visit us with his retinue a ! 
two o'clock to-morrow afternoon (Sunday) ; he then recited a sea 
poem, and drank off a big stein of beer without taking it down from 
his lips, and passed away forward as he had come amid loud noises 
and blue lights. It was an interesting part of the evening and whet- 
ted the appetite for what was to come on the morrow. 

All was expectancy about two on Sunday afternoon, the weather 
being clear and very warm; the midship deck had a large platform 
erected in the centre over the hatch, where it could be seen from all 
sides, the decks above, as well as the one on which the platform was 
erected. The large canvas swimming tank was located close against 
one side of the platform and was about four feet deep and filled 
with warm soa water. A round pole, used as a rail, was on the plat- 



64 

form above the tank. A lone fisherman furnished fun for the wait- 
ing spectators, fishing on the edge of the tank with a large salt mack- 
erel attached to his hook, his comical attire and antics furnishing 
much amusement for the crowd, especially when he would fall a- 
sieepand tumble into the tank with many gesticulations of dismay at 
the mishap. 

Every vantage point was crowded, nearly all the passenger list 
being around with the exceptions of a few of the scared ones who 
had taken to their state rooms to hide, for the fear of what Nep- 
Lune might do to them. A large hose was playing into the tank all 
the time to keep it full and for other purposes later explained. 

The procession started from the bow of the ship amid great 
noises and hails seemingly from the sea. The right of the column was ta- 
ken by the ships band, tricked out ina mandlin, errant mixture which 
made the streets of Cairo seem a monastery. Scarlet skirts with 
ermine facings and canary buttons of heroic size were merely a star- 
ter. One apostle of music was radiant in a white spiketail with angel 
sleeves puffed in black and lapels of vermillion decorated with diago- 
nal bands of copper paint. Take a manufacturer of kaleidoscopjes ou 
to a midnight lunch of mince pie, sliced tomatoes, and lobster 
salad, and Neapolitian ice cream, and you might hope, if you were 
lucky, that when he was at the height of his nightmare his dreams 
would give him a faint idea of the jumbled medley of the band's rai- 
ment. 

But the band was only the beginning, the sort of preface to the 
parade. Four Nubian slaves with silver arm bands of huge size, of 
pure sheet tin and huge gold nose rings of simon pure brass and palm 
fiber ballet skirts of true rope yarn and plenty of skin covered liber- 
ally with lamp black, were the introduction to the valiant soldiers 
etc., the like of whom were never seen before on that or any other 
equator. Two of the warriors were gorgeous in Prussian Uhlan hel- 
mets With nodding plumes; sailors raincoats faced with green and 
painted in copper were a small part of the rest of the uniform. They 
carried huge paper mache swords. Two other soldiers were dressed 
as tribesmen from Thibet with bow and arrows. Other soldiers in e- 
qually fantastic garbs preceded the piece de resistance of the parade. 
Short and squat with a side elevation like that of Bartlett pear 
the boatswain helped your digestion the moment you cast eyes upon 
him. His pot belly was a poem. The jolly little fellow in height, 
but jolly big fellow in girth, wore with great dignity a "choker" which 
might fit a bull calf. He wore it like a cat coming down a tree 
'hind sidebelore. With it was a tie of Chinese vermilion a yard 
long. A spiketail of Canton flannel concluded the costume, for the ro- 
tund bos'n was bare legged and barefooted. 

The Chaplain came next with a huge mortar board on his head 
covered in black, as was his rig and also the book he carried, which 
seemed to be a yard square and covered with Malay and German 
characters. Then came King Neptune himself and a mighty King was 
he with all his retinue and the royal raiment. He was much over six 
feet tall had immense mustaches, of ship tow, a foot long, and a beard 
about three feet long of combed rope yarn, which made a warlike 
shield for his immense chest and corporation. In one mighty hand 




CO 

p 
cr 



65 

he grasped a trident with a shaft alone eight feet long and three e- 
fciormous gilded teeth. A tunic of blood red flannel descended to the 
royal thighs. With him came his royal consort in piratical black 
with a huge golden crown serrated with large teeth. So well gotten up 
was she that at first, it was supposed to be a stewardess until the roy 
al feet of generous proportions were seen, when all doubt vanished 
"she was a man." Then followed the "Astronomer" "The Photogra- 
pher" and several other satellites of various lower degree, including 
the policemen and other natives as Tamils, Hindos. and Egyptians, 
Quite a kingly retinue I can assure you. 

The procession paraded all around the ship on the various decks 
and finally emerged on the platform on the aft hatch cover where 
the Captain welcomed the royal visitor and turned the ship over to 
his hands, Poseidon shot gutteral thunder at the Captain and proceed 
ed to decorate him with a gorgeous 'cross and order about the size of a 
large dinner plate, and to some of the other officers similar decor- 
ations, also to Mr. and Mrs. Frank Clark, giving them appropriate bap- 
tisimal sea names. 

First several of the lady passengers of the ship had their names 
called and came up one by one, had a long harangue read to them by 
the chaplain, was given their sea name and then the barber took 
a huge atomizer and sprayed their faces with cologne, and their cer- 
emony was over and they stepped down. 

I had my name called first of the men and being dressed for the 
occasion I stepped on the platform with my back against the rail over 
the tank., The Astronomer performed with his compasses on his 
chart, read me a dissertation in German and christened me the bap- 
tisimal name of "Bugsprietius," Every one on the ship was given a 
different name. Then little Bill the barber carefully lathered my fa c e, 
head and anything near, with a large whitewash brush full of soap 
suds that he had in a bucket in lieu of a shaving mug. He took a huge 
razor with a blade about two feet long made of wood and carefully 
soraped my face etc., cut my hair with a pair of wooden scissors a- 
bout three feet long, and then I turned a flip flop backwards over 
into the tank, was soused and the hose turned on, and then I went 
to the edge of the tank and waited developments. 

Several of the ladies and mens names were called in rotation, 
the ladies being baptised as I have before related, the men similar to 
mine, but some of them not knowing when they were to be put into 
the tank, were caught and dumped rather unceremoniously and well 
ducked by the Nubians below until they were sputtering and blowing 
at the unexpected ducking. A couple of the girls were disappointed 
having had hopes of being ducked in the tank also. 

The Chief Offfcer had had two lines of hose run up in the rat- 
lines with large sprinklers on them, but in such a manner that they 
were not easily noticed. The crowd were enjoying the sight to the 
fullest extent with a zest of a lot of school boys, but someone dis- 
covered a couple of sailors going quietly up the ratline, and then 
noticing the hose also running up ending with the large tin spray- 
ers, gave the alarm and the crowd began to try and get away, I soon 
realized that a great deal of coming fun would be lost unless prompt 
action was taken and with a yell I jumped into the tank grabbed a. 



66 

hoM of the hose an<3 turned it on the crowd everywhere, and the fun 
became fast and furious, those in the front ranks tried to get a,way 
and those in the rear pressed forward to see. and between the two 
the crowd was held until the great majority of them had gotten a 
thorough wetting and baptism that they had not counted on at all 
to the great enjoyment of all, as those who got it so badly had to 
take it good naturedly just the same Some got away, but the 

noise and laughter showed them that they were missing something, 
and back they would come only to get the hose turned on them. Af- 
ter awhile, giving the hose to some of the other fellows who were 
aiding in the fun, I took the bucket and with a quick throw would 
duck some far up, that were not in the line of the hose. In all about 
three hundred received a pretty fair wetting and a good deal of amuse- 
ment wias had for a few hours and for sometime afterwards, discuss 
ing the various escapes. Some of those who had been called up 
forgot to take their watches and bill books out of their pock- 
ets and of course the watchmakers a t the next port had some work 
in their hands. 

Taking it all in all it was a novelty that helped put away in a 
hilarious manner the nice warm equatorial day and was really en- 
joyed by all as the boy spirit of fun, even though subdued when 
one gets old and gray, will still crop out and bring; back memories of 
their early days. 

The certificates of Equatorial baptism given by the ships peop 
were handsomely lithographed, about the size of two typewrite! 
sheets, containing a picture of Neptune riding the seahorse accom- 
panied by a couple of sea dragons, a picture of the Cleveland in the 
distance riding the waves. The certificate was edged with gold, the 
general color blue, and below in one corner was printed this certifi- 
cate the names being filled in. The reading was in German, but I 
give you the translation as it reads. 

We Poseidon the only son of Chronos, Prince Trident, 
lawful ruler of the violetblue high seas, earth girdler and 
earth shaker, have most graciously permitted the earthborn 
"Mr. Geo. T. Bush" on board our friendly Hamburg American 
liner "Cleveland" to pass carefully over our equator. 

This, in our sea law declared equator christening in- 
appropriately and satisfactorily done. 

The christened child tears in this region, according to 
custom the sea name of "liugsprietius" which he must bear 
from now on in joy and sea sorrow in our realm. 
Given on March 27, 1910. 

POESIDON. 
(seal of the trident attached) 

Some wanted to know how you could tell when you had crossed 
the equator and when they would ask the Captain he asked them if 
they did not feel the bump, and they sort of half believed him and, 
thought they did feel a slight shock- 



67 * 

CHAPTER XI. 
JAVA and SINGAPORE. 

We were in sight of land, one place or another, after leaving La- 
baun. all the way to Java, most all being islands of some sort, from 
those of the low coral formation to the high volcanic formation. The 
low coral ones with their fringe of cocoanut palms on the horizon 
made the picture, you have often seen in books, of the South Sea 
isles, but now we saw them in reality. We could no longer see the 
North star; bujt both the false and real southern cross showed up 
nicely in the sky for a few hours very night. 

We arrived at the port of Batavia, Java on Monday morning- Mar. 
28; the port is called Tandjong Priok, being about five miles from 
Batavia proper. Our ship being so large vv i had to anchor outside 
the roadstead, and take a smaller boat to go into the harbor. A 
rather large side wheel steamer came tb take us off, and it was a 
nuisance of the worst sort; the whole lot of passengers had to get on 
3 one boat and we were four hours from the time we; got in the 
roadstead until we landed. While little tenders would have taken 
us much quicker, but the port has but few of the small boats. 

After landing at the fine concrete docks we took the trains that 
had been provided for us to go to Batavia, as it were, though all this 
is Batavia, that is divded up into four large sections as follows: Tand- 
jong Priok where the warehouse customs and port are; Weltever- 
den with the hotels and retail shops and Meester Cornells which is 
the fashionable residence district. We went direct to Weltveerden, 
some getting off at Batavia to take the train for Buitenzorg, about 40 
miles up in the mountains; whereis said to be the finest botanical 
garden in the world; the other one to dispute it being the fine one 
at Kandy in Ceylon. 

We took tiffin in a large pavillion in a fine public park in Wel- 
tevreden. and were entertained during the meal, by native Japanese 
dances on a stage erected at one end of the pavillion. Everything 
closes up here in the middle of the day and we did not feel much 
like going around in the hot sun, enjoyed the shade of the trees in 
the gardens better; but later in the afternoon we all took the little 
dos-ados being little two wheeled carts with the seats back to back 
and pulled by a little shaggy maned horse. It was fun getting in- 



68 

to some of them, once or twice when I stepped on the rear step, I be- 
ing so heavy up came horse driver and all and I had to hurriedly get 
on and shift my weight forward to equalize the load. 

Ground seems to be of small value in Weltevredon, as all the 
houses have so much surrounding them; the parks are all quite ex- 
tensive, and the Hoted des Indes the finest one there, has sixty a- 
cres of ground surrounding it, In front of this hotel is the sacred 
Worrington Tree, somewhat like the Banyan in appearance, its leave 
are veined on the outside giving it the appearance of being turned- 
inside out, and of course there is a legend connected with it, as with 
everything out of the ordinary in these countries; the Buddhist na- 
tives say that Mother Magi when expecting to give birth to Buddha, 
secreted herself in this mammoth tree, and all the roots closed around 
and the leaves turned also to hide her. The tree covers a greatdeal 
of ground, said to be the second largest in the world of the banyan 
tribe. 

The tomb of Peter Eberweld who was beheaded for revolt in 
1722 has above it, placed on the stone, his skuld which has been 
whitewashed so much that it looks like stone itself. It contains this 
inscription; Punishment of the country against Peter Eberweld, 
no one shall be allowed to build on this place, nor to plant anything 
on it throughout all eternity— April 17, 1722. 

The exhibitions given by the actors on the stage at one side of 
the pavillion were all interesting. The various knife, sword* axe, and 
other drills were good and all signified something. Many parts of 
scenes were enacted sometimes with men, sometimes with women 
only, and then some in which both took part, the music accompani- 
ment being behind the scenes. Their costumes were most elaborate.AH 
the natives wear bracelets, e v en the lowest of the types, both on 
ankles and wrists. 

The reception by the natives in Java, to our party was most cor- 
dial and openhearted, somewhat similar to the one met with in 
Japan, it was the last we received as an American party. 

The town is well laid out with wide streets, smooth and well shad- 
ed on both si d es, and even the old town of Batavia with the native 
quarters has fairly wide good streets, The various points of interest 
were visited but I enjoyed the native quarters best where I saw them 
{printing the fine Javanese cloth by hand, making silver filagree 
work, weaving baskets and chairs, and making dainty nicna<cs out of 
bamboo, caraboo hide, and many other things. The fruits are very 
fine cannot be grown or brought aw/ay from that country, some of 
them are most delicious; but I was very timid about eating them, did 
not want any internal troubles in these climates. 

They have a fine playground one mile square in the centre of Wei 
treverden in which all the sports take place and on which fronts many 
of the principal buildings. The most interesting of these is the 
Museum, being one of the finest we had visited having the most 
complete archeological and ethnol ogical collection of everything of 
all the races back for two thousand years arranged in dynasties, and 
I wias sorry that time was limited for a more careful study. We vis- 
ited many other points of interest. Canals run all through the town, 




Laundering in Batavia 




Primitive Street Sprinkling 



m 

the natives use these for all purposes; one place you would see the 
children, men and women all bathing together, the next the women 
washing clothes or anything else they had to clean, including rice 
and eatables, all in the same dirty stream. The children wore no 
clothes at all, sometimes a string around the waist, and some of them 
would have a siber or tin ornament hanging on the string in front 
The Javanese women are slender but well formed, rather under size; 
they wear but one garment it being a piece of cloth wrapped around 
the body under the arms, and it seemed to stay on without the aid 
of pins or buttons. This garment permitted the free use of their 
bodies and was rather picturesque, especially as the most of them wore 
the native print cloth; they carry themselves very erect caused by 
carrying everything on their heads. 

This print cloth is called Sarong but is now being imitated by ma- 
chinery in Germany and imported there. I as usual, loved to roam 
through the native quarters always finding hosts of things to interest 
me, and I did this on Tuesday going by myself all over old Batavia 
seeing much that was interesting and quaint. The city has electric 
roads, and aJso noisy little steam tram roads running to all parts of 
it, and out into the country some distance. Though it was warm in 
the sun, the houses were rather cool anct comfortable inside, gener- 
al :y being built of light bamboo. The houses of the upper classes 
e better, but of light construction a funny thing I noticed in the 
evening;, well to do people, well dressed in European styles would 
sitting en the porches both men and wiomen in their bare feet and 
often had them on the reading tables. 

Chinamen are numerous in Blatavia and inter-married with the na- 
ive women very extensively. In the money of the country, the unit 
i alue is the Gu4der,being worth about forty cents of our money, and 
is divided up into one hundre d cents with the regular smaller coin 
pieces from one cent up. The Dut c h are certainly good rulers there 
seeming to be no unrest, the country giving them but little trouble. 

It is the same here as it was every place, though I had not men- 
tioned it before, you tell the drivers of the conveyances to take you to 
say, the Museum; and off he would jo and land you in front of some 
temple; you would say some templehe would bring you to the hotel, 
and so on it went being the same every place; it is often exasperat- 
ing though sometimes amusing. The supreme indifference at what 
you say was caused by not understanding and wishing you to think 
he did. I generally purchased a map of the places I visited and keep- 
ing close tab on the roads on the mip. and route, and places I wanted 
to go, would generally direct him by the wave of the hand and in 
that manner I did not lose so much time and got to go where I wish- 
ed to go. So near the equatoi there is no twilight; in less than fif- 
teen minutes after the sun went down it became night, it was small 
warning to those of ivs used to long twilights. 

Econony seems to be the rule with the natives in many cases as 
I noticed many of the houses where there were only two rooms alto- 
gether but the horse, cow, goats, chickens, and children, all stayed to- 
gether and lived in the same house; the bed of the family being on a 
raised platform at one end of the .room. 

Coffee growing has become pretty nearly extinct on the island of 



70 

Java on account of a blight for which there seems to be no remedy 
not one quarter of the amount being grown now that there had been 
in the past. 

Java was classed by the many passengers with the Hawaiian Is- 
lands and Ceylon as the spot of greatest beauty, some holding one 
opinion, and some another, but all agree that they are three of the 
most beautiful spots in nature, in the whole world. 

We sailed from Java, about five P. M., Tuesday, March 29, after 
some tedious delays, and headed north a^ain to Singapore through 
the wonderful and historic Straits of Malacca. Islands on both sides 
of us were in view all the time. The sunsets in the country were 
beautiful every night, many missing their evening meal or part of it. 
to witness them. Pen can never describe them, had one the command 
of the language of a full dictionary; they must be seen to be appre- 
ciated. We had been having the South East Monsoons for some time 
now and it made our voyage on the vessel very pleasant, at no time 
it being really uncomfortable while at sefei. 

On Wednesday the 30th, we had another dance on the deck it be- 
ing a very pleasant evening, and about ten o'clock, while dancing 
the whistle blew, on inquiry we found that we were crossing the equa- 
tor northward bound. 

The waters through which we were passing were the scenes in 
the early days, of much piracy, the Malays for several hundred years 
holding trafic up to tribute, and many lives and an enormous value 
of property were destroyed and stolen by these intrepid marauders. It 
is only a short while ago, that it has been effectually put a stop to; 
the countries interested sending fast gunboats and hunting down 
hese pirates to the death, no mercy being shown, all being shot to 
pieces, and now any sort of a boat is safe. 

We arrived in the harbor of Singapore early on the morning of 
the 31st, and anchored about a mile off the city. It was an interesting 
sight to see so many vessels there of all kinds, from the lowly junk 
to the big liners: and the flags of all nations but the United States, 
but we were getting used to that by this time. Here it is. a nation 
that sixty or seventy years ago our flags were seen in all ports, and on 
all seas, and practically with one exception ruled the sea, and now 
the flag a disgrace on the ocean by its conspicious absence. Some- 
thing radically wrong which I hope the future will do better by us 
in that respect, and it will have to, il we expect much from foreign 
commerce. 

The little Malays, in their tiny canoes hollowed out of one small 
log that was not more than ten feet long and about a foot wide and 
six to eight inches deep, were thick around the vessel all day, diving 
for coins, water rats they certainlv were, they had little spoon shaped 
paddles with which they could propel themselves around with great 
i apidity, and though a coin was thrown twenty feet away from their 
boat, and had started down in th<- water before they leaped, they dove 
and disappeared and in a few seconds came up holding the coin up to 
show they had gotten it. Sometimes two or three would dive at once, 
but they never foug\ht after one of uem had gotten the coin. They 
kept the water out of their canoes by an adept motion of the foot, 



71 

sweeping it clear in a few seconds, they got into the canoes very clev- 
erly. If one of us had tried getting to them we would have been o- 
vav a dozen of times. There bronze coppery skins ail one shade, 
with the lithe muscles shiny from the water made them took tike 
pieces of bronze statuary. 

The money of the Straits Settlements was the same as Borj 
being a dollar which had a value of about 68 cents in our money; it 
vv as divided up into one hundred L-ents, with the customary small 
coinage of the various metals and denominations. 

Singapore is one of the great ports of the world ranking seventh, 
and that with only a population or about 160,000 people, mostly natives 
and about six thousand Europeans. The Chinamen as usual are the 
artisans and the merchants, of the smaller class. They are now build- 
ing large docks and will soon make it the finest port in the world; a- 
bout thirty thousand vessels clear there every year, all vessels gonr..- 
east or wlest having to stop for some reason or other. 

The Island on which Singapore is located is only about 27 miles 
long and fifteen wide; of course it being under British control it is a 
modern, clean, up to date, well policed city. Many plantations are 
outside the city, some few abandoned but nearly all are being plained 
with rubber trees; thank heaven for that it will give us a little hope 
auto tires will become cheaper soon a conditii tedly wished 

Singapore has fine botanical gardens, a nice museum and 

some ma^nii'icant government buildings, aiso many fine warehouses 
and stores, But the native shops as usual took my eye, they have 
nearly everything from all parts of the world, there prices are son 
what "higher than what we had been paying elsewhere for the sa 
class of stuff. The population is very cosmopolitan, there being it 

aid over forty different races represented and the difference in 
dress of all this motley tribe made it, a very fantastic sight. 

Half our party divided when we left the ship in the morning, 
one party going to Johore. We went by a very nice little train a- 
iss the island, and then took a steamer and crossed the small 
strait to the mainland, on which the province of Johore is situated. 
The Sultan has a very nice palace though not very rich looking, 
but fine grounds, we did not see him or any of his ten wives; he 
has only ten now but he is still young, so the chances are good for 
an increase. Johore is under the control of the British government, 
though they give the Sultan plenty of rein for he is modern in his 
ideas ana is building the country up; he is al'owed his own issue of 
stamps for postage with his own picture on. I was more interested 
in the small towns of Johore with the shops, some of which were kept 
by Chinamen as usual. The Chinamen ran most of the gambling places 
oi which there were many, and we had considerable sport for a while 
plavirg fantan or whatever they rolled it. They had three numbers 
on a board and you placed your money on one of the numbers, they 
then took a pile of coins put a cup over the pile, putting what was 
outside the cup to one side and then counted the pile covered by 
the cup off in fours, if three was Left over and you had your money 
on three, they paid four for one, where they were sure to win was 
when none was left over. They had pieces as low as a quarter ot 



72 

a cent in their money equal to about one sixiii 01 a cent in ours, so 
you could gamble a good while if you wished and not lose much. 
There were several other gambling games but I did not get an insight 
into all of them for lack of time. 

While in Johore, waiting for the boat, and wandering around on 
one of the back streets I saw four men come out of a house with the 
curious shaped Chinese coffin swung on a couple of trestles and what 
was evidently the widow and two tiny children came out of a house 
walked around the coffin several times chanting, then the children 
got on their knees in front with reeds in their hands and seemed to 
be praying; while the mother, after bringing out the customary offer- 
ing of food for the dead and setting the same on a table in the 
street, got a thick pile of printed papers out of a pocket and pro- 
ceeded to burn them one by one on a little fire in front of the cof- 
fin. These were the prayers, There were no tears shed by either 
the widow or the children as I could notice, and there were few other 
people around, but these four men to carry the coffin, and myself a- 
! cross the narrow street behind a pillar where I took some pictures 
of the little ceremony. There was something pathetic about it de- 
spite the fact of the business like proceedure of the ceremony. When 
all was through the carriers picked up the coffin and followed only 
by the woman and the two children departed for the burial place. 

We were twelve hours away from the western end of the United 
States by time and about twelve thousand miles by distance a long 
ways from home, taking four weeks by the fastest steamers and trains 
to get home from here. Singapore has about forty different varieties 
of snakes, several of them deadly, so we did not feel like ventur- 
ing far in the country on foot. I saw many monkeys running wild in 
the woods but no larger game. The rains are very heavy here coming 
down in sheets, it is said that it rains over one hundred inches a 
year. They stop as quick as the;. ,came which is without warning,. 
A heavy one began about two o'clock and most of us got to the ship 
as quickly as we could and at that got wet through. 

I was sorry our stay was so short at Singapore as I would have 
liked to have seen more of this interesting city. 



u V&a&Q Q OOOe 




Chinese Funeral in Johore 




Grant 



Shrines Surrounding the Shwe Dagon Pagoda 



73 



CHAPTER XII. 
RANGOON and BURMA. 

We sailed at five P. M. for a little while running through the 
straits but soon lost sight of land and was on our way to Rangoon 
in Burma, used to be called Farther India, one thousand miles to 
the north, now a province of India, but under separate government, 
using the India money and stamps. 

For three days we were on the ocean, nothing eventful happen- 
ing, and on Monday morning we first saw the muddy waters from 
the Irrawaddy and soon the palm trees showed themselves. This was 
the mouth of the Delta of the famous Irrawaddy river that had 
its head one thousand miles north in the mountains of Thibet. Ran- 
goon was located thirty miles up the riverat the present time.though 
it was said at one time it was on the shore of the sea, and it was 
also said that Prome one hundred and sixty miles up the Irrawad- 
dy river, was at one time many centuries ago, a seaport town; the 
great accumulation of thousands of years, brought down from the 
mountains, by this river, filling up the Bay of Bengal until all this 
great Delta of land had been made. It was a rich fertile, alluvial soil 
on which fine crops were grown, principally rice. There are now 
several mouths to the river, Rangoon being situated on one of the 
branches called the Rangoon river. We proceeded slowly up the river 
seeing little of interest until the top of the famous Shwe Dagon Pa- 
goda with its scintillating gold spire struck our view. 

As we drew nearer Rangoon the river became alive with boats of 
all kinds, and as our screw was churning up the thick mud we soon 
had to anchor about a mile and a half below the wharf, in the cen- 
tre of the river. The deep draught of the vessel kept us some distance 
away from many ports.; it being the largest, or one of the largest, 
that had ever called at any ports on the other side, both in the mat- 
ter of draft and length. Tenders ran back and forth to the ship all 
day, but not after dark, on account of the time the boat was there be- 
fore; a tender ran down a tow after night and drowned several peo- 
ple, and the contractors would not run the boats after night this time. 

The chief and most interesting tiling in Rangoon and one which 
uiany of the pilgrims come for thousand of miles to worship, is 
Shwo Dagon Pagoda; the massivenes- and gorgeousness of it strikes 



74 

you, but at the same time another thought came to my mind and I call- 
ed it the three G's, meaning gorgeous, garish, and greasy; georgeous 
from the massive splendor of the great structure itself; garish from 
the many little temples and shrines around the base, built up with all 
kinds of broken crockery, glass and anything that glittered and shone, 
without regard to harmony or taste with their arrangement; and grea- 
sy from the excessive amount of grease and dirt found everywhere 
around these shrines, most of the grease coming from melted candles, 
until m some places it was inches thick. So thick and greasy was it 
that tne shrines easily caught fire, and many of them had been burn- 
ed: I saw one that was on fire, soon an attendant of the place I 
suppose, came along with a bucket of v>ater, carefully set it down got 
down on his knees and said a pretty long prayer it seemed to me, 
winle the fire blazed on, and finally having done this got up and threw 
the water on, quenching it. 

Tne Shwe Dagon Pagoda itself is a massive stone structure ris- 
ing up in the air nearly four hundred feet, it stands on a high mound 
of its own, so that it makes it veryconspicious for many miles around 
iii the surrounding level country. It is about thirteen hundred feet 
around the base and quickly tapers up to a fine spire. The whole thing 
from Lop to bottom is covered with gold leaf, and near the top is said 
to be covered with heavy gold plates. It is claimed to be three or four 
thousand years old, being much smaller at first, and has gradually 
been added to in bygone ages until it has assumed its present massive 
proportions. The sacredness of it to the Buddhists is on account of 
the claims that bones, hair, and what, not of different Buddhas are 
buried here, and thus it becomes a very sacred shrine, and a cure 
for all evils and pains. It is estimated that about $100,000,000 has been 
spent on the thing since the foundation, and that at the cheap labor 
cost of that country. 

All around the base of this pagoda are numerous shrines, said to 
be about four hundred in number and I believe it; from the minature 
affair with its little Buddha to the great gorgeous ones costing possi- 
bly a hundred thousand dollars. The money spent on the this hill 
would keep the whole of India from starvation for years. The splen- 
dor of this big Golden pagoda is impressive, and it can easly be call- 
ed one of the wonders of the world. The multitude of small pagodas, 
have their Buddhas carved out of every sort of thing one could think 
of, and also have their gongs with the clapper near so that the wor- 
shipper can strike it, and let the God know that he is worshipping. 
They have their many niches for candles from which the enormous 
amount of grease comes. Some of the carving is very fine. There were 
workmen reguilding the upper part of the main pagoda but they only 
work on Sundays They went up on a rope tramway of four ropes that 
ran to the top of the pagoda carrying a very gaudy decorated little 
car that I would not have trusted myself in for a minute. Beggars 
and vendors are plenty all around the base and leading to the pagoda, 
and are somewhat of a nuisance at times though, are interesting. In 
a joking way I asked one of the women who was so persistent to 
sell me something and had a very pretty little child there, how much, 
pointing to the child, and quickly came the answer two rupees and she 
raised it up for me to take; two rupees is about 64 cents, they do 



74 

not ask much for children, she seemed quite put out when I did not 
buy the infant. 

The wagons are called Gherries and are little boxed affairs that 
you can hardly see out of, about like our milk wagons here, pulled 
by a little horse that you would hardly think could pull the wagon, 
let alone three or four people in it. They had a fine Zoo here, the 
interesting part of it though was the big white elephant, formerly 
Ex King Theebau's most sacred one; the attendant would sell you a wat- 
ermelon for a few annas and permitted you to feed him, his capacity 
was good as I saw him while standing there put away ten of them with 
out a quiver; possibly our visit was his feast day. 

The fish pond containing the sacred fish was another attraction 
I have never seen so many fish together in one place in all my life. 
You could drop a piece of bread or rice cake they sold you for the 
purpose, in, and the water became alive with them and no matter how 
many pieces were dropped at a time it was the same way. I believe if 
the fish had all been taken out of the small pond there would not have 
been a bucket of water left in it, They were small ugly little fish 
from four to eight inches long looked somewhat like our bass 
but more bull headed. 

I beg leave to insert the following poem which applies to the last 
three countries visited. 

JAVA, SINGAPORE and BURMA. 
By Mr. L. A. Sherman. 

Come we now to beauteous Java, 

Island queen of th.> East Indies. 
Garden of the southern tropics; 

Where the Dutchman rules the natives, 
Rules with firmness thirty millions. 

Northward then, where rules the Briton. 
To the settlements, where pirats 

Fourscore years ag i were sheltered 
In the swamps and Island jungles. 

Now behold the transformation! 
Singapore we find a city 

Built and guarded by the Briton, 
Beautiful and most substantial, 

Where vast commerce seeks a harbor. 

Once more northward, where in Burma, 

Briton holds the reins of empire, 
Guards the eastern bounds of India, 

To Rangoon, a tropic city, 
Come we next, in our burning April. 
Beautiful its parks and lakelets, 
Marvelous its shrines and temples, 

Its Shwe Dagon guilt pagoda, 
Shrine of Buddha's ardent votives. 

Rangoon has about three hundred thousand population, and is the 



76 

main city of Burma, which has about ten million people. Burmese 
are aptly termed the Irish of the East, are an extremely happy go 
lucky, generous, merry, bright attired people. The hair is long and 
black but though plentiful on the head the men have little on their 
faces. The best time to visit the country is from November to April, 
the rest of the year it is nearly unbearable for Europeans. Rangoon 
is an American laid out city with wide streets running at right ang- 
les to each other, has many fine"" shops of all sorts, and also many 
nice business and other buildings. Has an electric street car service 
covering the city thoroughly. The houses of most of the residents are 
roomy and far apart so that the city covers a great deal of ground 
The native, Chinese, and other quarters are crowded together as 
is usual with those people. 

The bazaars are the interesting parts of the city, whole blocks 
having those big bazaars with their many little shops of all characters 
inside. The women are the principal traders being, or seeming to be 
much brighter than the men. The markets are not very inviting in 
some places, especially the meat shops with the pieces of meat hang- 
ing up and the crows lighting on and picking at them. The women 
are much better treated in this country than other countries vis- 
ited and have greater consideration shown them everyplace. The town 
in some quarters is very interesting at night and well worth a visit 
along the "Great White Way." 

What to me was the most ridiculous thing of the whole visit to 
Rangoon was the trip to see the elephants at work. Expectation was 
high and it had been well advertised, and we went out several miles 
to a lumber yard to see, as we thought, a whole herd of elephants 
piling logs and moving them etc.;when we arrived at the place and 
looked around I saw one poor lone elephant standing there with a 
small well worn piece of timber on his tusks and about twenty five of 
the party standing around solemnly looking at him and photograph- 
ing him as if he was one of the wonders of the world. The ridiculous- 
ness of the thing struck me so forcibly that I burst out laughing, 
and some turned and asked what was the matter; I said it was so 
funny to see you poor mortals stan cling around looking at one poor 
moth eaten elephant holding a small piece of worn timber in its tusks, 
that looked as if it had been lifted to be shown the same way for 
years, and there you were looking at it as though it was a great 
wonder, Why I said that poor little elephant should have a sign 
painted on its side "Office hours from 7 to 9 A. M.", it seems that 
was the only time we were allowed to come out to see it. 

Elephants have been done awaywith in most of the lumber hand- 
ling except in the forests, steam being much cheaper, but I went up 
the river a short distance to anotherlumber yard and they really had 
two elephants working and a funny thing happened which showed 
the intelligence of the animal. The Mahout or driver rode on his head 
while another native fastened the logs together and the elephant haul- 
ed or dragged them to the mill some distance away. This one was led 
to the river and took a drink of water and came peaceably back and 
allowed himself to be hitched on to the logs, they were several of 
them and quite heavy and at first he tried and could not budge them; 
the fellow on the ground stormed around and beat him but no good; 




Grant 



Shwe Dagon Pagoda 



77 

finally the elephant turned his head around and I seemed to see a 
gleam of fun in his eye as he deliberately turned his trunk towards 
the fellow, and let go about a bucket of water over him drenching him 
to the skin, and the elephant really laughed as we all did heartily. 
He had gotten his trunk full and saved it for that purpose evidently. 
His load was made lighter, 

On Wednesday April 6th we left Rangoon at noon and soon went 
down the river and out to sea on the way north west to Calcutta, 
India. The days were passed as before with card playing meetings 
etc. On Friday evening Mr. Alden Freeman of New Jersey, gave an e- 
laborate birthday party to Miss Margaret Sadd of Tennessee, and 
Miss Dorathy Stewart of Phila., it being the occasion of their 19th 
birthdays. I had given one a short time before to Miss Biggs of Pitts- 
burg with about the same people; this time Mr. Freeman had invited 
the Captain and several others to make the party fifteen. He had 
favors for every member of the party, and as each favor was pre- 
sented a piece of doggerel was read,describing some hit or character- 
istic of the person, which created much amusement. The grill room 
was nicely decorated for the occasion and the chief had baked two 
fine birthday cakes for the girls. The Captain sat at one end and 
Mrs. Callaway at the other end of the table. A delicious repast was 
served as the grill room steward I guess wanted to please the Cap- 
tain and the fun was fast and furious for a couple of hours all vot- 
ing it the event of the ship in the dinner line. The d inner was 
followed by a dance on the deck which was gayly decorated with flags 
and electric lights and it was greatly enjoyed by all. 



78 



CHAPTER XIII. 
CALCUTTA. 

On Saturday morning April 6th we very early approached the mouth 
of the Hoogly river on the way to Diamond Harbor and though we 
had no sight of land for some time, we knew we were near, as the wat- 
er was muddy far out to sea from the emptying of this river into it. 
It is also creating an enormous delta the same as the Irrawaddy 
has done in Burma and the soil is similarly fertile, and used for many 
miles up the river for growing rice. We took on the pilot before we 
got sight of land, and the ocean is marked with bouys far out to sea 
as the water is very shallow. The tide is very strong and rushes back 
and forth like a mill race, creating dangerous bars in the river, the 
accurate knowledge of these bars allows the pilot to exact enormous 
fees for taking vessels up; in our case said to be twelve hundred 
dollars. The bars are really dangerous quicksand and makes the Cap- 
tains of deep draught vessels very nervous, for if a vessel happens to 
touch one of them, that is the end of it, it will be gradually sucked 
down and disappear and nothing under the sun can save them. They 
cannot be pulled out and it is said that a boat as large as ours would 
have the smoke stacks under in six hours. Continual soundings 
have to be made as the bars shift so and the pilot must keep up to 
date on them. This pilot was a dapper little Englishman who came 
aboard with six pieces of baggage his wife and two native servants 
jnst for the short stay we were there. The government gets the mon- 
ey for the job but the pilots are said to be paid ten thousand a year 
and retire in a short time. 

Calcutta is about ninety miles from the ocean and Diamond Har- 
bor where we were going to anchor is only thirty miles from there 
The harbor is nothing but a lake in the river at that point. It is 
said that our vessel could have gone up to Calcutta on the tide but 
it was dangerous and the Captain would not risk it. At Calcutta the 
tide at flood runs at the rate of about ten miles an hour so you can 
see the force of it. We took smaller river steamers here and made 
the voyage up to Calcutta, mostly against the tide, not reaching there 
until nearly six o'clock in the evening but the trip was interesting 
from the great variety of commerce that is continually passing and 
the changing scenery along the banks; and on nearing Calcutta, the 
many factories to be seen, and a great number of brick works. The 
city has more than a million population and covers a considerable a- 



79 

mount of ground, being loosely built, except in the native quarters 
where they are crowded together as usual, it was very warm in the 
sun iii Calcutta, though the humidity was not high, and even in the 
houses in the middle of the day a few of the days the thermometer 
registered 10(3, and as high as 126 in the sun. We wore our heavy 
sun helmets made of pith, about tnree quarters of an inch thick and 
strange as it seems they were light fooling and very cool. 

On the way up the river huge stacks of straw were noticed mov- 
ing along the river, and lying in shore, that looked at first as if 
l hey were floating on the water, but on close observation they were 
found to be on low barges. At Calcutta the party was broken up, and 
some going across India by train, some to Benares, and some to Dar- 
jeeling; those going across India we did not see again for fifteen 
days. At Darjeeling is the place where the tourists go to see the 
sua rise on famous Mt. Everest, said to be the highest mountain in 
the world. Those who went said the trip was a hard one but the 
scenery was very fine. They were high up in the mountains and it 
was cold enough for overcoats. Those who took the trip to Benares 
were also greatly interested that being the holy city of India; to 
bathe in the sacred Ganges there, will absolve you from all aches and 
pains, and the monkey temples, the burning ghats and many things are 
reported very interesting. Those who made the seven days trip a- 
cross India also enjoyed it very much, visiting besides Agra and 
Benares, the cities of Delhi, Cawnpore, and Lucklow, all made famous 
by the Sepoy rebellion of 1857. 

I did not care to miss Ceylon, the place that has always interest- 
ed me from my boyhood days; so made the trip around with the ship 
to Bombay, stopping at Ceylon for three days. 

Calcutta is a place of great interest, and I put in four hard work- 
ing days, going all the time, seeing things, regardless of the great heat 
of the sun, but it was worth it all. I was bothered greatly with my 
feet and ankles in this place, they swelling so, and I found about half 
the people on the ship had the same trouble. I was somewhat alarmed 
but one of the tourists, who was a doctor, said that would leave me 
when I got to a colder climate; and it did. There were so many of us 
at Calcutta that we had to divide up around the hotels, I drew a 
poor one in one respect but enjoyed it for the novelty of it. The 
dining room was all one with the bar, billiard room, and office, there 
were electric fans all around; the house having heavy stone walls 
and cement ceilings it was pretty cool inside. I had a good sized roon 
on the ground floor with a very large electric fan in the centre 

thank goodness), and I moved my cot directly under it as did also 
my room mate Mr. Bently, but he did not like the draft and got up 
and shut it off, and then the mosquitoes began, and I soon turned it 
on and kept it on as I found as long as the fan was going I was 
free from mosquitoes, and I slept comfortably on the hard beds the 
four nights I was there. But that was a minor matter, it was com- 
mon to see pretty little lizards, about three inches long, running over 
the walls and ceilings; off the room was the bath room, being a room 
about 5 X 7 all cement with a drainin one corner, and it contained a 
large galvanized wash tub full of water, and a two quart cup, and 
you took your bath by standing up and pouring water over yourself 



80 

with the cup, I soon got to like it as it was both cooling and cleans- 
ing. There were no doors on the rooms, and you soon became used 
io the many barefooted Hindoos slipping noislessly in and out of your 
room at all times. There seemed to be about two servants to every 
guest, there were five or six to wait on you at every table, and yet 
you had a hard time to get anything at times. I soon learned they ex- 
pected to be bossed around, and the universal name for them is 
"Boy"; I soon had them on the jump and had everything I wanted, 
generally had to get about four to get it though. 

In my bath room I forgot to mention I had a very fine pair of 
trained birds belonging to the cockroach family, and they were about 
two and a half inches long, and they certainly could fight and ma- 
noeuvre, it interested me greatly At our hotel, we were not bothered 
with the crows flying into your room like some of the others were, 
they would light on your bed post and look at you in such a wise man- 
ner, and then if they saw anything glittering on the bureau pick it 
up and fly off with it, possibly they were trained to do so, for purpose 
of robberry. 

I must say the meals we had at our hotel were very good indeed, 
and you could have all you wished, and the people who ran it were 
extremely obliging and accommodating, so taking it all through, ' I 
rather enjoyed the novelty of the place. 

The natives there wear hardly any clothes at all, and seem to be 
about the most miserable things on earth, and I guess they are; 
They are thin and emaciated, never seem to smile. The head waiter 
in the diningroom got five dollars a month, and the clerk told me had 
four wives, and that three of them were the women working across 
the street carrying brick and mortar up into a new building being 
erected, at which job they made about ten cents a day each. 

One evening I noticed quite a glow in one part of the city and con- 
cluded there was a fire and started for it with a couple of others. 

We soon arrived and found quite a conflagration going on, sev- 
eral stores and a small lumber yard being on fire. A couple of 
very small engines were there working, I could have easily turned 
them over on their side; there was a park adjoining and it was black 
with natives, I judged about ten thousand of them, the streets were 
crowded with them also but we had no trouble going through the 
crowd, pushing them to one side quickly if they did not open up a 
wide path for you, which they generally did; even the police stepped 
out of our way, while they beat and knocked the natives down with 
long sticks when they did not get back. At this time there was a 
scandal going on in the fire department of Calcutta, the outcome of 
which I later learned was the discharge of the Chief. On an alarm 
of fire, the head men would hurry to the place, and refuse to try 
and put the fire out until tribute had been paid or promised, and the 
poor man in most cases had to come down with the stuff before any 
water would be thrown, as he was generally helpless about that time 
and would be willing to do anything to save his property. I learn- 
ed of the conviction of the Fire Chief after I had landed in Europe. 

You ran across graft every place in some form or other, but 
this was the worst I ever heard of to catch a person as helpless as 



81 

this when he was sure to have to put up especially if he had no in- 
surance, and he generally had none. The British authorities soon put a 
stop to it when they heard of it. 

The word "ghat"; a very familiar one in India, means in general 
a place along the water, so that they call a landing place, a bath- 
ing place, or a place where the dead were burned, ghats. The bath- 
ing ghats were interesting from the fact that nearly all day long there 
were a great number of Hindoos bathing, men, women, and children 
together. They rarely took their cotton garments and when they went 
into the water, but loosened them and rubbed their bodies, and let 
the garments dry on them. The ghat was a series of steps that ran 
down under the water some distance, so that the bather could get 
any depth wanted. There was a sort of a covered structure at the 
head of the ghat used for shelter, or to change clothes. The reason 
there was so much bathing, no good Hindoo dare go to prayers un- 
less he bathes himself first, a very wise rule on the part of the one 
who originated the religion. 

The burning ghats were the strange things to our eyes, but a 
little went a long ways with me. You go from the street into a build- 
ing only one story high and pass through, emerging into a sort of a 
walled open court, part of it open toward the river. This inner court 
had a rough dirt floor, filled mostly with ashes, with depressions in 
the ground at many places. One place a fire had been started, there 
were first a few sticks of wood laid, and then the body, then a few 
more sticks of wood in this case, money being short to buy enough 
wood, the body was doubled up, the knees and head just reaching 
to the edge of the woodpile. In another place the fire had burned 
pretty low and parts of the body were unconsumed, these with the 
ashes were taken up and thrown into the river. The amount of mon- 
ey you paid , determined the amount of the wood used; in some 
cases where only a few sticks could be bought, the body would be 
only half consumed and would be thrown into the river as it was, 
and in cases of many children where the mothers had no money the 
body would be disposed of unconsumed. This was not considered 
very good and the natives tried to avoid it if at all possible. One 
of our party happened along with a guide, at one of these ghats, and 
found a native woman holding the little body of her baby in her arms 
she was crying very bitterly; on inquiry through the guide, they 
found that she had no money to pay for burning the body, and found 
it would only take a few annas for wood; so all contributed and gave 
the money to her, it made the woman very nappy and the cremation 
proceeded. To die within sight of the Holy Ganges is the great de- 
sire of every Hindoo and the gruesome sight was very often seen, of 
persons being brought to the ghat who were not dead, but nearly so; 
and with a smile on their faces, in sight of the other burning bodies, 
would happily pass away. This method of disposing of the bodies 
is not to be condemed at all especially in this cholera ridden coun- 
try, but the gruesome surroundings and heartless way they do it is not 
very pleasant to the sight; especially .to have some of these beggai 
loungers come up to you and wish to sell you some of the burned 
bones, often with unconsumed skin and flesh on them. Some 
places the customs differ from others, in some mild degree, one the 



82 

oldest son breaks the skull, legs, and arms, of the corpse before 
burning to let the evil spirits out. 

The Zoological Gardens, are located in a beautiful park and are 
very fine, their specimens of all the species of bird and mammal be- 
ing of the best. The tigers were an exceptional fine lot and one was 
a man eater of the worst stripe. I wished to get a picture of him, 
so got inside the rail with my camera, focused between the bars on 
a certain spot, and let out a yell when he came lunging at full speed 
for me, and a second after I had snapped the camera and stepped 
back a couple of feet, he struck the bars with full force reaching 
out through after me. He certainly was a ferocious beast but a 
fine specimen of the tiger family. 

They had also an excellent museum here of about the same type 
as that one at batavia only it contained many more exhibits of ev- 
erything, was sorry time was limited for seeing it thoroughly. 

The Botanical Gardens about six miles from town were very nice 
the principal points of interest; being the beautiful drives through 
the long lanes of palm and other trees, and the wonderful Banyan 
tree, the largest in the world, covering a circular space of ground 
over six hundred feet in diameter. There were also houses that con- 
tained many beautiful orchids in great quantity and variety. In go- 
ing to the Botanical Gardens we had to cross the Howrah bridge, 
the main bridge across the Ganges river; it is constructed of anchor- 
ed pontoons and rises and falls a distance of about fifteen feet with 
the tide. A continual travel passes back and forth over it. 

The famous Black Hole of Calcutta, was where 147 officers were 
confined for one night in a basement room fourteen feet square. 
with but one small window. The half of them died. It is now only 
a memory marked with a slab of stone covering the spot containing 
an inscription making a mention, and giving details of the occurrence. 
d ; he Maiden, an open park in front of the principal street, with a cir- 
cumference of several miles; is filled with statues and fine trees, and 
must be a very beautiful place during the rainy season. The palace 
and grounds of the Governor General were very attractive. The Ka- 
li Temple with the Ghat adjoining within the walled city, is interest- 
ing, but not attractive; here pilgrims come for thousands of miles to 
worship, bathing and anointing themselves first. It is also said to 
contain some relics of Buddha. The day we were there was a holi- 
day and it was certainly a weird sight Priests, who take great pains 
for a pittance of course, to show you around; fakirs, beggars, relig- 
ious dancers, etc. An endless stream of people went back and forth. 
In front of the Temple, goats were being sacrificed by the score, I was 
told one hundred and fifty that day;and the bodies were carried to the 
image and the blood allowed to drip down over it. The bleating of 
the goats, the cries of the people, daubed with paint, and the half na- 
ked bodies and strange costumes, and the hideous image covered 
with blood; combined to complete a spectacle that made it hard for 
me to realize that it was not a horrid dream. Bright colors were to 
be seen, and boys wearing ugly masks, made the whole effect wonder- 
fully strange. It certainly was depressing for it made you realize 
more than anywhere else the hopelessness of the Hindoo and his life 
in this form of idolatrous worship. 



83 

One of the strangest sights, wa Iking around the city in the late 
evening, especially in the European quarters, you would find curled 
up on the pavement, doorstep or any place that did not interfere to 
much with the pedestrain, half clad natives sound asleep on the hard 
stones. In some places that was partly sheltered you had to step a- 
round or over to keep from tramping on them. Women come along 
the street and scrape up the fresh cow dung with their hands, car- 
rying it away and paste it up against the side of their houses, to be 
dried and used for fuel; and you noticed their shacks everywhere, 
covered with these paddies giving them an odd appearance. Women 
seemed to be the workers everywhere, carrying heavy loads neatly 
balanced on their heads, seemingly with the greatest ease. Beggars 
are seen in great numbers and all kinds. Religious fakirs who cut 
off their eyelids and blind themselves by looking at the sun, staring 
at you from a seat on the sidewalk with those awful sightless 
eyes. Others recline on a bed of spikes, or hold out an arm until 
it grows stiff and fixed in one position, or torture or maim them- 
selves in many ways. 

The markets have their unattractive offerings, and everywhere 
are the sweetmeat sellers, for the Indians are the greatest lovers of 
sweetmeats in the world; not even barring the Esquimo with his fond- 
ness for gumdrops; and the rancid oder cf the sweets in process of 
manufacture is never absent in the native quarters. The proprie- 
tor, practically naked, sits on the platform stirring his delectable (to 
the native) confections, and the flies swarm on that which is offer- 
ed for sale. A man or woman stops at a hydrant, fills his or her brass 
jar with water goes to the house and performs their ablutions, and 
change their scant costume in full sight of all who wish to see. 

A person living there is compelled to keep a dozen servants, 
where one in this country would do, as not one would do ethers work 
and caste prevents them from taking any other position than that 
to which they were born, or doing any other kind of work. That 
small array of servants will cost no more for the wages than one 
good one here, and very little more for food, many feeding themselves 
and the others a little rice is sufficient. 

We attended an Indian show especially gotten op for our tour- 
ists, and a funny one it was; about the only redeeming feature be- 
ing the dancing of the Nautch gir iS with their beautiful graceful 

ies, naked feet and ankles, covered with bells and bracelets, and 
lithe sinuous dancing, very pleasing to the eye. They gave us some 
theatricals that were very crude, and some singing that was pretty 
good; and then for a change gave us some moving pictures, one of 
which was the Niagara Falls, that made us all laugh heartily. 

The large market house or Bazaar here that has been lately built 

and is under supervision of the British authorities, is a fine large 

building covering several blocks; it contains all sorts of shops each 

in its on distinct locality, and was an interesting sight. It is mostly 

patronized by the Europeans and the high caste Hindoos. 

I should have mentioned before, the money of India. It is the same 
as Burma; namely, the Rupee being the unit of value, and at pres- 
ent is worth about 32 cents and a fraction, varying with the price of 
silver. It is divided up into sixteenannas, which makes an anna about 



84 

I wo cents each; the anna is divided up into twelve pies, as they are 
"•ailed, but the general coin is the pice, which is three pies or one 
quarter of an anna. I gathered a complete sets of the smaller coin- 
age of every country I went to. The various coins of India are the 
one twelfth anna or one pie, that is seldom used and very scarce 
though I managed to get a few; the next is the half pice, the half 
anna, the one anna, two annas, four annas or quarter rupee, and 
half rupee, and the rupee piece, and then the paper money of all 
denominations of higher value. Up to two annas, they were bronze, 
the higher values, silver metal. 

Everyplace some one springs up who wishes to do you some small 
favor for a pittance, and you would feel inclined to let them help you 
as they are satisfied with n small amount, but they soon became an 
intolerable nuisance. Lots wanted to follow you as guides, of if they 
saw you going into a store would follow you in and try to tell the 
proprietor they brought you there so !h-?y would get a commission, 
and you would have to pay much more for the goods than otherwise 
on that account. 

The Jain Temple is well worth a visit: it is a beautiful garden in 
which are lots of statuary, running water, fountains, houses and tem- 
ples of marble, and also of cement with the broken pieces of blue 
i • rockery making mosaics all over, giving everything a blue appear- 
ance. The shrine inside one of the temples is covered with gold and 
many jewels. The temple was built by a rich native of Calcutta about 
thirty years ago. The Jains are a sect of people numbering about 
two million, and represent the survival of Buddhism in India. Their 
religion forbids them to kill any living thing, and some even wear a 
cloth over the mouth to preent them from killing insects by breathin 
them in, and they will not even eat fresh fruits and vegatables, be- 
cause of the germs of life that reside on them. 

I had the pleasure of visiting a couple of Marajah palaces that 
were not ordinarily opened to visitors; a couple of us drove up in a 
carriage and alighting walked right up to the door; my white hair 
and large size I guess somewhat disconcerted the guards, as I would 
hand them my card and bow and walk in, and they would look a min- 
ute and finally volunteer to walk around with me, taking me for some 
Baboo or big man, as nearly all wh ile haired people are held in great 
respect by the natives in India. The palaces were beautifully furnish- 
ed and decorated, showing the great wealth of these native rulers. 

That reminds me of an experience I had one evening in Bombay, 
which I will relate here before I forget it. Two of us got a rather 
bright young native to drive us around, and he seemed to take a 
fancy to me and wanted to show me everything, so we drove through 
all the quarters of the city, and many places or streets he would 
drive into there would be natives silting or lying around the door- 
ways; he would shout something in his native language; they would 
take one look at us and all would disappear in a jiffy, and then he 
would set up a howl of laughter. I asked him what he said, and he told 
me that he called out the Babe was coming; one look at me and all 
would decamp in a hurry, and I learned many of them were crim- 
inals and were drearfully afraid of the Baboo; and as he looked some- 
thing like me it made lots of fun for the driver and us also. Some 



/tc 



85 

places whore we drove, the natives were sleeping all across the street 
the carriage being barely able to thread its way around between with 
out running over their feet or heads. "-v. 

The other place I visited was located in one of the native quar- 
ters of Calcutta and occupied qui to a plot of ground surrounded by 
a high stone wall. It was built in Grecian style and was owned by the 
late Rajah Rajendro Mullick Bahad oor. The front yard contained a 
fine fountain and on the lawn at first what I took to be bronze sta- 
tues were about two hundred of the glossy bay and scarlet ibis, the 
sacred bird. They stood there in all positions so motionless that they 
really seemed like statues, and you were only undeceived when 
you saw one put its leg down or another draw it up, they were an 
interesting sight of themselves. Very few people who live in Calcutta 
know of the place and hardly any tourists get to visit it, and it was 
only by chance I ran across it having been told about the place by 
another of the party, but you could find nobody who knew the location 
The ^.side of the building was a magnificient paved tile courtyard 
in beautiful patterns made of semi precious stones. The court was 
covered over on top with a fine wire netting, and in this yard was 
the finest collection of rare birds 1 have ever seen. The white pea- 
cock, quite a number of the talking mina birds, lyre birds, birds of 
paradise and many of the rarest of the feathered -family in great pro- 
fusion and the finest of specimens. 

We had a little trouble at the door but one of the party with me 
pointed to me an said Baboo (the magic word in India it seemed) and 
1 handed my card with a bow and we were ushered in and shown a- 
round. The palace was as elaborate ly decorated in modern style as 
any in Europe, many magnificient rooms, the walls covered with the 
finest of tapestries, crystal every where and when the lights were 
turned on seemed like fairy land itslf. The ante rooms, halls, and stair 
ways, were filled with paintings of great value and fine statuary in 
great profusion and I was certain ly very glad to have seen it. The 
Rajah and descendants since are a family of artists and he was in 
great favor with Queen Victoria. 

There is one tree called in Eng lish the rain tree which the native 
considers sacred, it is a fine fern like leaf and the natives think they 
are blessed if they can lie or sleep under this tree. If you get one 
under a tree he will never tell you a lie while there. Custom, is one 
of the greatest evils, though at times blessings of the country de- 
pending on which foot the shoe is on I guess, as they will never break 
a custom. For instance, it has been the custom for the servants pur- 
chasing to get a rake off, and they will never break it no matter what 
you do, so it is best to abide by it. 



86 



CHAPTER XIV. 

CUSTOM and CASTE in INDIA. 

Caste is the curse of the country, and yet in disguise a blessing 
to England as it will always prevent the native from getting his free- 
dom, as they can never work in unity in anything and for that rea- 
son England is safe forever from a general insurerection all over the 
country. They may break out in spots but can never go far. There 
are 47 distinct nationalities and about 27,000 different ^castes I under- 
stand. The four principal castes an? the Brahmin, or priest, the 
warrior, the tradesman and the la boring classes and these are sub- 
divided as above and some are so low that they have no known caste 
at all; but even these have some sort of a caste or distinction of 
their own, so that it would take years of hard work to get all the 
ramifying details of this wonderful but dreadful system that is the bane 
of the Indian. No matter how much you read you can never under- 
stand how far reaching it is and how exorable are its laws, and even 
then I doubt if you can fully realize what it means. Here is a coun- 
try where every child is born to a certain station in life, and he 
can no more change it than he cou Id stop the moon from rising. If 
his father is a tradesman he is a tradesman, and if his father is an 
outcast he has no hope of becoming anything else; of course he may 
be a better business man than his father and consequently the dis- 
tinction of caste do not measure a man's worldly prosperity; the poor 
man who accepts service with you may belong to the highest caste 
and would be polluted by the touch of the prosperous tradesman whose 
worldly estate is so much superior to his own. So strong are the rules 
of caste that no man may eat food prepared by a man of lower caste, 
nor may he touch him without defilement, nor may he do any work 
which does not belong to his caste. This is all general knowledge 
from talking with the people and I do not profess to understand the 
system and its intri'cacies; it is fuli of contradictions and inconsisten- 
cies and even the Europeans who have lived there for many years pro- 
fess ignorance on many points. 

In India, in some places outside of the big cities there are rules so 
rigidly observed that certain streets are set apart for the high caste 
people and none other may use them. Some places modern civiliza- 
tion has broken them somewhat, as iu the railroad cars the Brahmins 



87 

may rub shoulders with the outcast, although in a house he would not 
breathe the air of the same room and would be contaminated by the 
merest touch on the street or else where; the reason for this differ- 
ence is that they either have to slay at home or accept modern con- 
ditions and modify their rules to a certain extent. The Englishman 
is unclean, according to the Hindoo but dining with him does not in- 
volve loss of caste in most parts of India. 

The Hindoo must not use the water drawn from a source that 
has been touched by outcasts, but the. city water in Calcutta and the 
larger cities is freely used; as a special dispensation having been se- 
cured through the necessities of the case. Though in many ways 
it has been broken down, in this manner it will continue to be con- 
l rolling force to the peoples lives for centuries to come. 

What would society be all over the world if it became so strati- 
fied in that manner that no matter what it was no man could better 
his condition and the only thing allowed would be for the worst, is 
it any wonder India is the pitiful country that it is said, and no whole 
group of nations could better it much, for centuries to come 
with its horrid customs and caste The little you learn about the politics 
of India the less likely you are to think that there can ever be any 
great danger of an outbreak against Kriugh rule. The Hill tribes 
are friendly and though you hear of lots of unrest in Calcutta and 
some other cities the Hindoos would be really fighting against each oth- 
er as the Hill tribes would war against the lower land people for 
England. And again you can hardly believe that after half a century 
of submission these abject* servile , dispirited people, robbed of 
ambition and held in separate strata by caste, divided into dozens of 
different nationalities and languages, and again divided into antagon- 
istic religions, will seriously threaten Engiands power. It would look 
to me as if the worst thing that could happen them would be to throw 
off the yoke of Britian, splittingthe country up into many nations, 
and placing the people in the hands of rulers who know no restraint 
or mercy. 

On top of caste and custom comes that dreadful child marriage 
system or custom that is such a horrible nightmare to the foreigner 
who visits that country and sees and learns about the conditions that 
prevail, much of which is too horrible to relate in print, of the doings 
'>f these people along that line; but I will tell part of what I found 
out and you can guess the rest that is not permissible. The institution 
is strictly Hindoo and the cruelty and atrocity of it is hard to under- 
stand and believe. A more horrible practice never enslaved the people 
and it and the caste system are curses which stand in the way of 
;) regress and will never permit the Hindoo to attain a fair degree of 
advancement and well being. It is no wonder that the people are 
melancholy and hopeless looking and that laughter is never heard 
and that one gains an impression that they arc the most miserable of 
the worlds inhabitants. The Chinese are a similar race in numbers 
the way of living etc., but they know nothing of the caste system, 
or the child marriage, or bad customs, and they can rise out of their 
level at any time and can make themselves a world power at short no- 
tice because there is nothing to prevent; and all they need are the 
leaders for ready action; but here it is all different, hundreds of lead- 



88 

ers woud do them no good, they are too deep in the mire and therefore 
can never be a menace to the world like the Chinese could, though 
here they have the same large mass of people. 

The boys may be burdened with the responsibilities of family life 
and parenthood when they are fourteen or fifteen years of age and 
frequently the little girls are married when they are only six years 
old., for it is considered a most terrible disgrace both for them and 
for their parents if they are not married before they are twelve. 
These things, of course, we know, but we did not realize until we 
visited Calcutta how horrible the results are or how awful the facts 
in connection with the custom. The little girls of six years, or a little 
older, are married to men of all ages and while the claim is made 
that they remain in the homes of their parents for several years af- 
terwards, this is not true in many instances; the little girl frequently 
takes up her abode with her husband as soon as the marriage is 
performed and the story of suffering and cruelty which this practice 
entails cannot even be hinted at. There are some Americans and En- 
glish people as well as some of the better class natives realizing the 
great wrong are trying to right it and making a little progress but 
it is like digging in the Panama Canal with a spade. They deserve 
credit for undertaking such a herculean task, and showing so much 
courage in attempting, but they seem to think they are making pro- 
gress and in several generations to come, as the old adge says "great 
oaks from little acorns grow," but plant the acorn, it will take about 
the same time as the adage has it, if at all. I saw several instances 
which I was inclined to doubt, but one big fellow of at least forty 
years of age had only this little girl of about six or seven in the 
house with him, and a guide told me that was his wife and I saw she 
had the red streak at the parting of the hair, not on the forehead which 
won Id be a sign of religious caste, that it is necessary for a married 
woman to have. 

They claim as I said before that when married at six or seven, the 
girl remains with her parents for several years, but here was proof 
to the contrary and I believe the Indians simply lies about it in the 
most cases the same as the mormons, and that the Indian secures 
posession immediately, Oftimes thehusbands are kind to the child 
wife but again the cruelties to which the victims of the awful cus- 
tom are subjected are worse than the imagination of a sane and 
sensible civilized man could invent. I saw a little wife in an imme- 
diate neighborhood who undoubtedly was living with her husband, 
who had the look of a woman who had known sorrow and suffering 
for years, although she was not more than nine or ten years old. I 
saw other child wives as I passed through the streets and one who 
knows the meaning of the red mark in the hair has no difficulty in 
recognizing them. 

They have a native league formed called the Hindoo Marriage 
Reform League, which is an organization formed by the natives of the 
higher classes, for the sole purpose to try and put a stop to this ne- 
farious practice. The Object of the League was to prevent marriag- 
es of girls until they are at least sixteen, and of boys until they are 
twenty and they seem to be greatly encouraged with the progress 
they are making although they realize the great strength of the ques- 




The Hindu Curse— Child Marriage— Man 38, Child Wife 9 



•ajESH ■ 




A Sleeping Hindoo 



89 

Lion. I found on inquiry that contrary to general belief there is noth- 
ing in the Hindoo religion that required early marriage and indeed it 
was prohibited, but that the custom had prevailed so long and had be- 
oome so mixed with religious rights that it had almost the strength of 
a religious requirment. 

The origin of the custom is un certain but the progressive Hindoos 
declare that it began in ancient ti mes when the country was conquer- 
ed by the Mohammedans; the conquerors seized the girls for tneir 
harems, but respected the married women, and in order to protect 
their daughters the parents married tnem when very young, and out 
of this has grown the institution which is really more horrible than 
slavery. Whatever this may be, it is certain that the conquerors have 
also adopted the custom and child marriages among the Mohammedans 
arc common; one told me one day he being a Mohammedan, that his 
wife was six years old when he married her, but that she lived with 
her parents for three years after. In all parts of India child marri- 
age is very common and in some districts it is almost universal. In 
one large district the people can marry only once in twelve years and 
as no marriage can take place except on one auspicious day in the 
long cycle of years of twelve years; and as the parents lose caste who 
have an unmarried daughter under twelve, no stone is left unturned 
lo marry the girls even though thej are but a few days old. If the hus- 
band is not available the girl is married to a bunch of flowers and 
when they wither she becomes a widow and remains free to marry 
by a peculiar ceremony. There is a law against the real comsumma- 
tion of the marriage until the girl has reached the age of twelve, but 
this law is ignored and as openly violated as is prohibition in this 
country. But even if the law were enforced, and even if the claims of 
I he Hindoos who have been influenced by Western civilization to be 
ashamed of the practice that the girl does not become the property 
of her husband until she reaches the age of puberty are true, the ef- 
fect upon the moral and mental and physical condition would still be 
terrible. Just think what it means to the physical and mental devel- 
opement of a race when the girls of twelve and the boys of fourteen 
become parents, and when to this is added the practices which are foll- 
owed very commonly with the girls even less than nine years of age, 
one does not wonder that the Indian is a miserable creature, physic- 
ally, mentally, and morally, that he is weak and servile and altogeth- 
er Lhe most pitiable creature on earth. 



— aoooBB> ■ 



90 



CHAPTER XV. 

CEYLON. 

On Tuesday April the 12th we bade farewell to Calcutta and alter 
a pleasant ride down the river was very glad to see our good steamer 
appear in view, happy to get back to the good meals that was appre- 
ciated so much the more, after a few days away from the ship. The 
Cleveland was gaily decorated with bunting and "welcome home" signs, 
and the band was out to serenade us as we came aboard, everything ' 
had been painted anew and cleaned up while we were absent; but it 
was a tired crowd and all went to bed early, ready for our departure 
lor Ceylon in the morning.Nothing of incident occurred on our voyage 
to that beautiful isle. We just escaped a typhoon which made the sea 
a little heavy for a day or so and early on Sunday morning we again 
hove in sight of land and stayed in sight of this island, which was Cey- 
lon, all day and until we reached our anchorage in the harbor at 
Colombo about four p. m. Ceylon is a pear shaped island hanging on 
the end of India and we had to go round the island coming from Cal- 
cutta and go up the west side a short distance to reach Colombo. 
Much interest was occasioned rounding this island of which we had 
heard so much and so wished to see, and all gazed at it eagerly. 
Its low lying shores gradually defined themselves and the green vege- 
tation with which they were covered gave promise of the tropical 
beauties of what we had read. 

The harbor offers little protection for the ships, were it not for 
the magnificent breakwater that has lately been constructed for their 
protection, and they now ride at anchor safely inside its protecting 
walls during the most severe storms Colombo is a city of about 200,- 
000 inhabitants and is quite a port commercially, as most all the ship- 
ping that goes east or west stops here, like at Singapore, it boing on 
the most direct route. Many of the tourists secured quarters at the 
Gallc Face hotel, a very fine one with a good location facing the sea, 
they thinking it would be cooler there than on the ship at anchor! 
ine rates were very steep and many extras such as for electric 
tans in the rooms, baths, ice tea, a high price for the latterjust think 
paying a high price for tea in Ceyion (25 cents for a small' pot ), 
The name of the hotel was peculiar but was named for the fact of the 
hotel facing the road that ran to Galle an eld Portuguese town a few 
miles from Colombo; it is pronounced like the word Gaul in one syl- 



91 

lable. Another version I heard is that the word for beach in their 
language is Galle and because the hotel faced this beach was called 
GalleFace. It was a very beautiful structure well laid out with a beau- 
tiful park all around it with pretty drives and tall palms, the latter fil- 
led in their tops with colored electric lights, at night giving it a very 
pretty effect, especially when the palms waved too and fro with the 
monsoon winds. 

The whole spot was a beautiful one and especially on moonlight 
nights with the waves beating against the breakwater, and on the 
beach, cresting themselves to a great height. Rickshas and carriages 
were the principal modes of conveyance here, with bullock carts for 
the heavy work, and the roads being hard, smooth and level made it 
very nice riding in them. The regular natives are called Singalese 
and are a better class than those of Calcutta. They are Buddhists 
and either their religion or the happier condition of life makes them 
more cheerful and able to experience the sensation of joy and pleas- 
ure. The dress of the men is a skirt wrapped around the waist, 
and falls close to the ground, and a jacket. The women's dress is 
somewhat similar, but instead of a jacket they wear something resem- 
bling a corset cover that does not reach to the waist but leaves a 
patch of brown skin that looks like a bell. The little girls all wear 
something, but the boys are mostly naked, sometimes with a string 
and if they want to dress up have a little metal ornament hanging 
on the string in front. The men wear their hair long and twist it 
into a little knot at the back of the head, and on top of the head 
is a tortoise shell circular comb worn like a crown only round about. 
Some of these combs are very expensive, the standing and caste of 
the native depending on it, and maiy a poor man earning only a small 
pittance per day will have a very valuable comb on his head. 

The native costume looks very picturesque and appropriate and it 
is to be regretted from the asthetic sense and probably from a hygenic 
se also, that, the European influences are effecting it. The men 
in European dress do not look so had but the woman lose their 
trm in wearing European costumes and gain nothing by doing it. 
ything here is just a little different from things seen elsewhere 
while there have been points of resemblance ever since Java, 
there are modifications in dress and people and in the boats and 
vehicles and in many other things The boats are the strangest thing 
of any, they are hewn from a solid log, a long narrow box is fastened 
on the top, an outrigger i.s lashed to it, and they have a bamboo pole 
for a mast and the sails are generally square and made of bamboo al- 
though sometimes canvas is used, The boat at the top is only about 
eight inches wide, too narrow for anybody to get in, the native riding 
astride or side saddle as it were. The outrigger is a log lashed with 
bamboo strips and lies in the water paralell to the boat about eight 
to ten fed away, fastened to it by strong bamboo sticks that keep 
it in one position. It gives the boat steadiness and keeps it from up- 
setting and when rounding turns in a wind, natives even climb out 
on the outrigger to keep it turning over;' the boats are used mostly 
for fishing, the fish being thrown in the hollow log where they are 
safe from being lost. 

The wheeled carts are another great curiosity looking on a small 



92 

scale like the old wagons that crossed the plains, but their covers are 
made of bamboo and often the wheels are solid pieces of wood, 
hewn round, they are drawn by bullocks of the humped variety and 
make a curious picture. The many varities of people here in their 
bright costumes with the prevailing color white, and the many queer 
vehicles, all make the streets very interesting. There are onlya few Chi- 
namen, the first time for a long while where we had seen so few, 
they seem to have left Ceylon alone for some reason we do not know 
unless these people are as bright as they are and are able to cope 
with them in business. 

In the main the native shops are not very interesting, or did not 
seem so as we had seen so many of them I guess, but there are some 
shops near the dock that the natives are on the watch, like the pir- 
ate hawk, with their runners to drag you in, the principal thing in 
this case, to see some big jewel; th shops were they abound being a- 
way above par in number. They want to show you the big ruby or 
emerald and then when they get you inside produce jewelry set with 
precious stones; of all sorts all coming from that country such as 
topaz, sapphires of great variety, rubies, (they are nearly all spinels) 
and moonstones, oh, my!!!! Many of these are varieties of precious 
stones cut from pebbles found in Ceylon and look very pretty, and I 
think you will find a greater varie ty of precious stones in Ceylonthan 
in any other country in the globe. The natives seem to trust the tour- 
ists, as they will let you take a stone out to shqw somebody, and leave 
loads of them lying around, but I guess they know who they are dealing 
with, or they are not as valuable as they seem; and woe betide you if 
you seem to show an interest at all, they pester the life out of you to 
buy, and the way they start out to ask you fifty rupees for a piece of 
jewelry and finally come down to four or five would make your head 
swim, and generally your money goes swimming also, but toward the 
jewelers pocket book. It only required a couple of hours patience 
and you got it at your own price low enough or you get stung badly. 
A couple of amusing incidents in that line I will relate: I was getting 
on the tender to come ashore one morning when a native approached 
me and showed me six pretty cut stones or pieces of glass about the 
size each of a two carat diamond, they were different colors and I 
for fun asked him what he wanted for them he said "I will sell them 
cheap only two pounds ($10.00) how much will you give," all said in 
the same breath.I answered one rupee (33 cents) he turned on his heel 
in disgust and went to another and I said don't give him over one 
rupee, he dickered around, and finally took the one rupee from the oth- 
er fellow for the stones, they were worth that as a curiosity. Another 
instance the next day a fellow offered me some very pretty moon- 
stones I ask him how much? One shilling each was the answer (25 
cents), I offered him a shilling for a dozen of them and in a few min- 
utes got them for that and picked the dozen out of the lot, some of 
the moonstones have considerable Jfire, and the best ones show the 
stars nicely, and make a very pretty cheap setting for small pins, 
necklaces or nearly anything. There were some pretty high prices 
paid for stuff here, and no doubt many of the people were stung pret- 
ty badly. The workmanship of the jewelery is very crude and does 
not show the finish of our workmen here. One of the jewelers told 




Outrigger Canoes on Beach at Mt. Lavinia 




Child Lace Makers in Ceylon 



93 

me they paid on the average about two rupees a carat to tho natives 
for the cut stones, some being worth more and some less. It is best 
not to buy in Ceylon unless you are an expert or get the stuff so 
low that it would be worth that for "brass and glass" as the natives 
call each others goods. 

A funny cigar lighting apparatus was noticed in one of the cigar 
stores, it was a piece of rope lighted at one end and hanging down 
smouldering away, quite original I thought, possibly that was where 
the original idea came from, who knows? The museum as usual con- 
tained a fine collection, embracing everything much of which was in- 
teresting. The usual places of interest were visited, such as Tem- 
ples, Parks, the native quarters, the only thing out of the ordinary 
were the cinnamon gardens, where we got the branches off the tret' 
and enjoyed eating the bark like we do the birch bark here in the 
spring. It had a very strong cinnamon flavor and the leaves also 
were strongly scented with it. Here also were plenty of crOws and a 
great nuisance, so bad that they had to have notices in the rooms 
at the hotels not to leave things lying around or the crows would fly 
in and make off with them. They have many venomous snakes on 
the island, a good many people dying from their bites every year. One 
instance I heard of that happened a few weeks before, an Englishman 
who lived there was found dead in bed in the room in bis house, show- 
ing plain'y the marks of having been bitten the night before while he 
iaid in bed asleep. 

One afternoon we took a ride on a little railroad out along the 
seashore for a few miles to a place colled ML Lavinia and it was a mos! 
enjoyable trip through miles of cocoanut trees. A fine hotel was located 
on a promotory extending out into the oeean, and on a beautiful spol 
down below on the beach lay a goodly number of these outriggers ca- 
noes which gave us a chance to examine them closely. A fish market 
was near, there the fish were being auctioned off that had just came 
in on the boats, and a varied assortment they were, of all colors and 
shapes. A native for a couple of annas would put a belt around his 
body and with the greatest ease go up a cocoanut tree forty or fifty 
feejt, cut off a nut bring it down chop the top off and you get amosl 
delicious drink of the real milk of the cocoanut, that was refreshing 
but too sweet to drink much of. I also went, up in the woods apiece 
where I saw several little children weaving lace with bobbins that 
they sold for a small sum. There was an interesting old Buddhist tem- 
ple up in the woods that had for its chief curiosity the whole life and 
trials of Buddha, depicted in a rath er coarse painting, on its walls and 
the native priest explained the whole story to me, a wonderful tale 
he did unfold. 

Our trip to Kandy was the best of all, for the varied scenery and 
the many new things of interest seen. Kandy is about seventy miles 
by rail from Colombo up in the mountains two thousand feet above 
sea level. Wo ran through the jungles for a while and soon began 
to wind our way up the mountain, all the way long in many places 
the rice fields were being cultivated by the natives; the road lined on 
all sides with the cocoanut palms in fact we saw more of these in 
Ceylon than any other place, and it is said the crop amounts to near- 
ly a billion cocoanuts a year. The scenery was not grand o'r sublime 



94 

like much of the mountain scenery in our country, but it was beauti- 
ful, The railroad wound on up around the sides of the mountains 
through dense tropical growths with the terraced rice fields lying a 
thousand feet beneath and now and then the straight lines of a tea 
farm or the outlines of a hill which had been cleared of vegetation and 
planted with rubber trees. The view changed with every mile and all 
of it was interesting, but the cars with their low protecting eaves 
cut off much of the view from any but those who sat next to the win- 
dows. The cars are built that way as a protection against the intense 
heat of the sun, and is necessary most of the year in that country. 

We, after three hours journey landed at Peradeniya, the station 
located nearest to the famous Botanical Garden which is generally ac- 
cepted as the finest in the world but our time was to short to thoro- 
ughly enjoy the beautiful spot, so filled with so many plants and trees 
we had never seen before. It seemed a shame to go through it like 
some boys go to College, in the front door and out the back. There was 
all varieties of palms running into the hundreds, and many other trop- 
ical trees and all varieties of the famous spice trees for which Cey- 
lon is famous. The Cannon ball tree on which the fruit bursts o- 
pen with a loud report, and shoots its seeds around; the deadly Upas 
tree, to sleep under whose spread ing branches means death; the cof- 
fee, the cocoa with its red pods, and the many varieties of rubber trees, 
etc. There were beautiful orchids in great variety; the ancient papy- 
rus from which the old Egyptians made their paper, and vast quan- 
tities of plant life of all kinds that would take you days to see it all 
and examine it. Our guide went up to a clump of bamboo trees and 
hit hard against one of the trunks and from off the top of the tree 
flew a large number of the vampire bats, their ugly hairy bodies, 
hooked wings with a spread of six feet, and hideous heads, gave you 
the shivers as they flew lazily aw ay to another tree. We started 
for Kandy four miles away for tiffin, and it certainly was an exper- 
ience for me, most of the way was down hill, I was riding in a rickisha 
but the fellow pulling it was very light in weight while I weighed a- 
bou' 250; he started at a pretty goo d gait and the vehicle soon got 
beyond his control going faster and faster, he took steps nearly 10 
feet apart, I leaned forward to keep him from being thrown up over 
me backwards. He missed a couple of carriages by a hair, and my 
hair was soon up on end, a couple of sharp turns we were on one 
wheel. He made an effort to slow up but could not do so, T had to try 
and grab the wheels and soon pulled him up with a turn, but at the 
expense of half the skin off the inside of my hand. I kept the hand 
brake on after that, did not wish any more such experiences. Along 
the whole route to Kandy the "Kandy Kids" were the whole thing, 
a continual stream, as many as we saw in Japan and they gave us just 
as great reception, but they were shameless little beggars and did it 
m such comical ways at times that you were sorely tempted to com- 
ply with t.h^v demands. They were most of them in the usual full dress 
I have spoken of before. We had a very nice tiffin at the Kandy ho- 
tel, and took rides around the country after; they have so many beau- 
tiful spots and drives it would seem as if you never got tired. The cen- 
tre of attraction here is the temple of the Tooth, and if it were not 
for the great reverence in which it it is held by the millions of the ad- 



95 

herents of the Buddhist religion, would have been badly disappoint- 
ing. It is a very ordinary looking building nothing like some of the 
fine temples we had seen, and is supposed to contain the tooth of 
the Gaudama Buddha, and the fact that the original relic was seized 
and burned by the Portugese priests some centuries ago, does not af- 
fect the Buddhists, although the alleged tooth is nothing but a piece 
of ivory about two inches long carved in the shape of a tooth, and 
resting on a lotus flower of pure gold in the innermost shrine of the 
temple, and is surrounded by precious stones and jewels of enormous 
value. Three hundred sacred turt les are kept in this temple, and it 
seems to be the meeting place of all the beggars of the vicinity, as 
they were there by the hundreds with all their disgusting and mon- 
strous deformities. I visited a cour t in session, was very much inter- 
ested for quite a while. There were snake charmers around the ho- 
tel who really did some quite marvelous things. We left Kandy a- 
bout 8 o'clock arriving home on the ship at midnight having enjoy- 
ed the trip very much indeed. 

The main streets of Colombo bordered with many trees with 
I heir brilliant colored flowers make many pretty pictures and as is 
usual with British control are well policed and cleanly kept. The 
whole island of Ceylon is interesting, with its varied scenery, many 
varieties of tropical plants, buried cities and the many different fea- 
lures of human life found in different parts of the island. So many 
shipping lines stop there, that it is easy to come to and to go from at 
any time. The railroads of Ceylon are owned and operated by the gov- 
ernment and are said to make a profit of $3,000,000 a year above oper- 
ating expenses; the construction cost must have been great in some 
parts of the mountains, but the road often runs through level coun- 
try which would reduce the average It is said that five thousand na- 
I ives lost their lives in building the road, through snake bites and dis- 
ease. 

Ceylon is one of the loveliest spots on the earth vieing with Java 
and Hawaii, the "golden mohur," a tree covered with golden flowers 
compels admiration, while the "flame of the forest" is such a mass 
of scarlet blooms that you wonder every time you see one. 

The following poem by Mr. L. A. Sherman, on Cevlon can be ad- 
vantageously used here. 

IN CEYLON'S BEAUTEOUS ISLE. 

Fair Ceylon, loveliest of the tropic isles, 

Where man is indolent and nature smiles; 
Where softened airs blow from the southern sea, 

And earth and sky respond in harmony; 
Where field and forest, plain and mountainside 

Are veiled in richest garments, like a bride; 
Where every prospect nature brings to view 

Is prodigal of charm and beauties new. 
Nor may we say man has not done his part 

In supplementing nature's gifts with art; 
For here we find the Brito n's master hand 

Brings peace and comfort in a jungle land. 



9 <5 . ,1 

We anchor in this harbor, eat his food, 

And scale the heights to Kandy on his road; 
Then let us give our British cousins praise 

For much enjoyment on these tropic ways. 
Here let us pause, nor dwell on native life, 

The beggar hoards, the bargaining and strife; 
The dirt and squalor, nakedness 'and want 

That Northmen hide and tropic countries vaunt; 
Note and remember all these pleasant things 

That this world cruise for our enjoyment brings; 
And not without regret speak our good-byes 

To India's strands and Ceylon's radiant skies. 

The government used old rails for telegraph poles, making 
very substantial ones in that country where the insects do so much 
damage to the wood, and again the freight on them to ship them back 
for old iron would eat up their value for that purpose. 

On Wednesday evening the 20 th of April the ship turned her 
nose northward again for Bombay, a forced run of two days and a- 
bout three nights being nearly nine hundred miles from Colombo. 
.The trip .was a lively one with several parties and a dance. A shad- 
ow was cast over what would have been otherwise the most pleasant 
trip; by the first death on the ship of one of the party, Noble John W. 
Good, of Moline, Illinois had a stroke of apoplexy about half past 
eleven Thursday night and though the several doctors did what they 
could for him he died at one o'clock in the morning. The body 
was immediately embalmed and put in a casket and taken off the ship 
at Bombay, and sent home on one of the P. & O. liners running direct 
to London, and from there brought to the U. S. 

He left a wife and son, both extremely nice people whom every- 
body on the ship liked, and on the advice of her friends Mrs. Good 
was persuaded to return home on the ship with the party, she being 
with friends who could do more for her than if she went among 
strangers and would get home just as soon. I immediately called 
a meeting of the Shriners, appropriate resolutions were drafted and 
passed and copies given the widow; and sent to Kaba Temple of Du- 
buque, Iowa, of which he was a member, and a committee of sever- 
al of the Shriners who were also going direct home were appointed 
to look after any and all her wants possible and assist her wherever 
they could. 

Noble Good was a quiet unassuming gentleman who was liked by 
everybody that knew him and was what we would call here a clean 
cut man, and he would have to be to hold the important position he 
did of Treasurer of the Deere Harvester Co., of Illnois. I had a con- 
versation with him about ten o'clock of the night he died, in the smok- 
ing room and he did not seem to be any different than usual and his 
death was indeed a sudden shock to all of us. 

On my arrival home I found a letter from Kaba Temple A. A. O. 
N. M. S. of Davenport, Iowa, acknowledging receipt of the reso- 
lutions and stating that they had been read at the regular session of 
I he Temple and ordered spread in full upon the minutes. The letter 
stated that he was an exemplary citizen and stood in high esteem as 



'.;? 



a citizen as well as a Mason. The Temple expressed their appreciation 
of this mark of kindness of the Brethern and thanked us for the 
attention thus shown the family in their bereavement in foreign 
lands. He was buried by his Commandery of Knights Templar, late 
m June. A list of the Nobles of the Mystic Shrine on board the 
board the Cleveland will appear at the end of the story, together with 
the name and location of the Temple of which they were members, 

Dr. Myers, of Kentucky, who had been in the Philippines as an 
army surgeon for throe years and who managed to get on the ship as 
a passenger home, gave a dinner in the grill to the birthday party crowd 
on Thursday evening, and a very enjoyable evening we passed and was 
followed later in the evening by a pineapple party on the aft hurri- 
cane deck given by Mr. Ira Smith of Pittsburg, also one of the parly. 

Between the dinner in the grill and the pineapple party, the regu- 
lar dance was held on deck, the evening being cool and pleasant, we 
enjoyed that very much also. OnFriday evening Miss Biggs of Pitts- 
burg for whom I had given the first birthday party had a return din- 
ner in the grill to the same party at which we had considerable fun. 
and we made the most of it as it was to be the last, one. We arriv- 
ed in the harbor of Bombay about ten o'clock and finally was landed 
by lenders about three. 



— »ueefJOt!CBM ■■••=• - 



9« 



CHAPTER XVI. 
AGRA and the TAJ MAHAL. 

The people who were going to Agra, to visit that famous place 
with its wonder of the world the Taj Mahal, were divided up into 3 par- 
ties; one small party of thirty-six of us having two special sleeping 
cars on the regular train, and the other two parties of about 125 each 
having two special trains that ran about an hour apart. Agra was 856 
miles from Bombay and it made quite a run of about 26 hours, our 
regular train left at four o'clock and arrived at Agra at sis the 
next evening, and we stayed at the hotel all night, while the specials 
left at nine o'clock that evening and did not get to Agra until the 
second morning. They spent a whole day there and left at ten o'clock 
at night arriving the second morning in Bombay putting in four nights 
on the cars. A great many dreaded the trip after having engaged and 
paid for it, and the last few days the tickets could have been purchas- 
ed for very little money. As a sort of a joke, on the ship before leav- 
ing Bombay I wrote and posted a couple of notices. "Wanted — A trip 
to Agra ticket, will trade some moonstones for one, apply to room 328" 
I had put it up as a joke but many took it seriously although there 
was no such a room number on the ship. In the afternoon after we 
landed at Bombay one of the tourists offered some moonstones for an 
Agra ticket and it was accepted and he went, I told him afterwards that 
he owed me a commission for getting the trade idea into the parties 
head. The moonstones cost about two cents apiece in Ceylon. 

We, after leaving Bombay soon got into the country and a bleak 
desert waste it was, seeming to be all sand and sage bushes, though 
occasionally a piece of ground was farmed. In about an hour the train 
began climbing the hill to the tableland that lies up high, and upon 
which the most of the interior of India is located. The road winds a- 
round and passes through many tunnels crossing back on itsself sev- 
eral times before it finally reaches the heights, and then runs with 
very little grade for six hundred miles into the interior. They had 
ii3 rain for six months and everything was dried up, and the coun- 
try we passed through put you very much in mind of the desert in 
Arizona and New Mexico except as there also when we would come a- 
crc-ss some irrigated land. 



99 

The heat of the sun in the daytime was very intense and required 
blue glasses to protect the eyes. All the cars had three kinds of win- 
dows, one with blue glass, one with slats and one with white transpar- 
ent glass; the blue glass was very acceptable in the daytime modify- 
ing the intense rays of the sun reflected from off the sand. The 
ears were comfortable, four people being in a very large compartment 
which contained a complete lavatory. The bunks were four wid9 
shelves the upper one folding back in the day time and the lower was 
a couch seat. Your bedding you had to buy and take with you 0/ 
you could rent it for the trip. The only real inconvenience suffered 
was the lack of cool drinking water and the line dust that would a!. 
times get into the car and cover every tiling despite windows and 
doors being tightly closed. The compartments were electrical!;; 
lighted and had electric fans and drop tables. The waits at the divis- 
ion points were pretty long so that you could got out and streti 
your legs and view the country and town. There were dining cars 
attached to the train, and the me als serve* I in them were pretty fair. 
You had to pay for ice, one anna or two cents. The best, part of it 
all to me was the serving to you before you arose, delicious hot tea, 
and cakes and strange as it seems it quenched your thirst and cool- 
ed you off better than wafer.. We passed many interesting old towns 
and ruins of forts on the high points relics of the feudal days and 
the different tribes when all were warring against each other. 

One large piece of the country was passed through, and part 
which was a fine large fortified town mi a bluff; a native told me 
was owned entirely by one Rajah, for nearly one hundred miles are: 
there. Agra or Agra Cantonment as the name is known in raiiroa 
circles, was reached about 17 o'clock railroad time. The railroads in 
e the 24 hour time altogether. One o'clock being one A. M. 
our time and 17 o'clock is 5 o'clock i J . ." '.".v. 

After getting off the cars in Agra, we immediately took carriages 
to go to the great red fort; a curiosity worth going miles to see 

:elf, even if the Taj Mahal were destroyed. The fort is very imp 
and as impregnable as could he imagined. Built of huge bloc! 
fed sandstone, with moat and drawbridges, bastions and towers a 

tlements, its massive wall must have appeared strong indeed 
days when it was erected. Within these walls is the red pa; - 
buill subsequently by Jahangir and tb pearl mosque and the white 

ace built by Shah Jahan; the fort itself was built by Akbar. Ti 
red palace is one of immense siz^ and is very imp] , hut is not 

especially beautiful: the sloping stone b iams which support the roofs 
show a phase of building that is new to western eyes, they must have 

n skillfully and cunningly adjusted. The white palace, with its 
courtyard and its gardens, its domes and hails, and its marble cm v- 
and inlaid work, is wonderfully beautiful, Facing it and a little 
higher than the open court, is the hall of public audience, an immei 
plaza more than 200 feet long and seventy feet deep, through whic 
entrance into the palace is made. This. broad plaza is one of the mot 
striking and imposing features of the palace. Beyond this entrance 
is what was formerly the fish tank, but is now a court. From one cor- 
ner of this a paved way leads to the gem mosque, where the royal 



100 

ladies worshipped, and near this is the bazaar, where they inspected 
the wares the tradesmen had to offer to them. The gem mosque 
is small dainty and charming. The emperor's private mosque, very 
plain and simple, lies in another part. The most elaborate' portion 
of the palace is on the edge of the fort wall and overlooks the river. 
In the hall of private audience, which consists of an open colonnade 
in front and an enclosed room at the back, the marble is elaborately 
and beautifully carved in flowers and leaves, and flowers are inlaid 
in the white marble in jade and jasper and carnelian and other semi 
precious stones. Then there is the grape garden and the kings pri- 
vate pavillion on either side of which are court yards of marble; 
and on the river side of these are the two golden payillions and the 
.jasmine tower with its golden dome the palace is a creation of extra- 
ordinary beauty which even the ravages of time and the acts of 
vandals have not effaced, and constant exclamations of wonder and ad- 
miration were dieted from the visitors. In this palace Shah Jahan 
was imprisoned by his son for thir teen years and from it, across the 
wafers of the Jumma, he could see the beautiful building which he 
had erected to the memory of his wife. 

it js paid that the pearl mosque which is situated some distance 
from the palace, is the most exquisite house of prayer in existance. 
The outside is a plain wall of red sandstone and a flight of rough 
step* leads up to the great red galeway. Passing through this one 
enters a large open square with a marble tank in the centre and 
one's appreciation of its beauty and perfection grows stronger the long- 
ger he ga.:es. On the face of the building there is an inscription 
made of black marble inlaid in wh do. which says the mosque may be 
bkened to a precious pearl. The prayer places are divided off in this 
mosque l.v partitions of carved marble with its delicate traceries mak- 
ing it loos at a little distance like some beautiful piece of lace. But 
there was so much of this delicate lace like carving of the marble and 
.he beautiful inlaying in all sorts of pretty and intricate designs with 
precious st-.mes wherever we went in the show places of Agra that we 
had to soon cease to wonder. 

When we left the fort finally it Was protly nearly time for the 
sun to set and we hurried to the crowumg l.hmg of all we had coma 
io seo, the 'iaj Mahal, accounted one of the wonders of the world and 
a nio;;i:iiieii! to the great love a man had for a woman, which gives it 
-ie proper touch of romance to make its beauties seem the softer and 
looked upon with a more pleasing eye. I can't attempt to picture it, 
would not have missed it for anything and all I can do is to try and 
^ay a lew words that will help to give you a little idea of it, but you 
nave to see it to have its beauty grow on you the longer you look 
and to me though I visited it three times in my short stay in Agra' 
1 was never tired of it and loathed to leave the spot, I climbed the 
surrounding mosques in different places to get the view from all points 
1 saw it by the setting sun, by the bright rays of the full moon, and 
then again in the full light of the morning sun, and it had new beau- 
ties each time; adjectives would fail you if you had a dictionary full 
of tnem. , so much did it impress me. Disappointment would be im- 
possible. Nobody could be disappointed in this building whose beau- 




Lady 



Screen and Tomb in the Taj Mahal 




The Taj Mahal 



101 

ty and glory have halted the tongue of the poet and stopped the pen 
of the master of languages for centuries. It requires no architect to 
see the perfection of its proportions, the harmnoy which it express- 
es, and needs no artist to appreciate the perfection of its beauty; 
that is the charm of it, that mere mortals whose life and education 
have been along the various lines of human endeavour come under 
the spell of its wondrous and transcendant beauty just as truly as 
do those whose lives have been dtvoted to those finer arts that devel- 
op love for and appreciation of the beautiful. It is a class by itself 
in all the architectural marvels of the world and can be truly said 
that it is the most beautiful structure in the world. 

Its charms depends upon qualities that can not be painted nor 
described, upon simplicity and symmetry, upon exquisite proportion 
and delicacy, upon its setting in a beautiful garden.and upon the blend 
ing of all these into one harmonious whole which robs the beholder 
of power of criticism and leaves only appreciation of the beauty. 
Though I cannot hope to adequately describe it for you, I know that 
some of you will be interested in information concerning it and I will 
do the best I can to give you an idea of its construction. Through 
a huge gate of red sandstone one enters a garden and at the far end 
of a double line of walks, with a marble water course between and 
with green lawns and green trees on either side, the Taj bursts upon 
one. The view from here is possibly as impressive as any that can be 
obtained, although closer inspection is required for the more deli- 
cate and subtle beauties of the carving and inlaid work; the close- 
est inspection adds to this first impression' in every way growing up- 
on you every minute the more you see of it. 

The Taj is square, 270 feet high, but with each of the corners cut 
away, and is built entirely of Jaitur marble, a sort of a light cream gray 
making it look somewhat like old ivory- A huge dome surmounts it 
and there are several smaller domes at the corners. All four sides are 
the same, an immense arch reaching to the base of the dome and en- 
closing a great recess or vaulted roof; on each side of the arch are 
two small alcoves, one above the other, and recessed deep into the 
building. Where the corners are cut away there are also deep al- 
coves. On the rear wall of the arc hes are windows of finely carved 
marble work, and over the four principal arches are floral designs 
in colored stone, with a passage from the Koran inlaid in black let- 
ters above and at the sides of the arches. Encircling the base of the 
dome, and at the top of the smaller arches is inlaid work. The white 
marble of every wall is carved in designs of exquisite delicacy. The 
building stands upon an immense marble paved platform 285 feet 
square, at each corner of which stands a lofty minaret of white mar- 
ble looking like gigantic candles to light the way to realms above 
and were marked out with narrow stripes in black marble. 

Great mosques of finely carved red sandstone stand at either side 
of this large platform. The Taj, in the centre of the great white 
court formed by the platform, with massive minarets standing like sen- 
tinels at the corners, with the mosque at either side, the river at the 
north and the beautiful garden and the tall trees and the great red 
gate and wall in front, has an appearance of majesty that overwhel- 



102 

ms one and renders him dumb so far as expressing his feelings is 
concerned. The interior of the building is scarce less impressive. 
Passing beneath the great arch and through a passageway one finds 
himself in a huge octagonal room and in front of him is an inner 
wall or screen of the most exquisitely carved marble, lace like 
in its effect and delicacy of design. 

Within his screen, which in loses the area directly beneath 
the dome, is the little tomb of thelady of the Taj and the larger one 
of the man whose love for her found expression in this wonderful mau- 
soleum. The tombs themselves, exquisitely carved and inlaid with 
semi precious stones. These cenotaphs do not contain the bodies 
for in accordance with Mohammedan custom these lie directly beneath 
in a vault; this vault, to which a stairway leads, is of white marble 
and its walls are absolutely plain. The mansoleum is divided into pas- 
sages and recesses and as one wonders through them in the dim light 
beneath the great vaulted roof he experiences a feeling of solemnity 
and awe that is unusual with us practical unimaginative people of 
the west. One is inclined to tread softly and speak in subdued tones. 

Some like it by moonlight best but it takes the sun to bring out 
all the beauty of this incomparable building, but the beauty is present 
ed in a new and softer aspect in the moonlight There is a beautiful 
toned echo whic*h is one of the properties of the building inside this 
vaulted dome, and when few were there the priests uttering their 
prayers in loud tones made an echo lasting for several minutes that 
toward the end sounded exactly like the dying notes of a sweet ton- 
ed bell. 5 

The Taj Mahal was begun in 1630 by Shah Jahan, who is accoun- 
ted one of the greatest of the mogul emperors who ruled India in the 
days of her highest glory. It was seventeen years in building and is 
variously estimated to have cost around $17,000,000. The emperor is 
said to have planned a mausoleum for himself on the opposite bank of 
the river and had already laid the foundations, which are still to be 
seen, when he was seized and imprisoned by his son. The wife's name 
was Mumtaz Mahal daughter of Asaf Kahn and was married to 
Shah Jahan in 1615 and had seven children and died in 1629 in giving 
birth to the last who was a girl named Jehanara and there is a beau- 
tiful story connected with the greatdevotion this daughter showed to 
ber father and who was her fathers only comfort, when to all the at- 
tractions of her brothers court she turned a deaf ear and remain < 
at his side during all the incarceration in the palace. The wife's 
body was brought to this place and buried temporarily in the garden 
where the Taj stands until the structure was completed seventeen 
years after. Jehanara the daughter who was faithful was buried at 
her own request under the green sod far from the pomp of court life, 
but a beautiful carved alabaster screen surrounds her burial place 
and the sun and light have free access to the green grass and the 
flowers on her grave. 

The identity of the architect of the Taj Mahal is uncertain and 
there was said to be several of them, and again that there was 
only one and that he had his eyes put out when the structure was 
completed so that he could not again produce another such a f inp struct- 
ure. 



103 

The tombs of ADkar about five miles out of Agra is also a very 
imposing one built in a different style of red sandstone. It is a 
pyramidical building four stories high, the top one where Abkar's 
body lies being of white marble, the rest red sandstone. A massive 
cloister runs around the lower story broken i»y high arches. In the 
centre of the upper story, which is reached by a narrow staircase, 
is the white cenotaph of Abkar on the one side is inscribed Allantin 
Abkar meaning God is Greatest, and on the other Jalla Jalahahn, mean- 
ing May His Glory shine, on the north is a marble pillar beauti- 
fully carved which was covered wi|h gold and at one time contained 
the Kohinoor, the famous diamondnow belonging to the king of Eng- 
land. 

Tbe tomb of Itmaud-ud-dulah, the Persian adventurer whose grand 
daughter was the lady of the Taj was built by Jahangir and is situa- 
ted m a beautiful garden across the river in Agra. It stands on a 
platform 150 feet square and is an imposing structure. The delicate 
carving and marble lace work and the inlaid work on this is also 
very beautiful and much more elaborate than the Taj as there is 
more of it and greater variety. 

The deserted city of Fatehpur Sikri is twenty miles from Agra. 
it was built by Abkar for his capital but was abandoned for Agra 
because of the unhealthiness and lack of water. It is a complete city 
in good state of preservation and contains many fine structures and 
is just as it was when deserted in a night as it were, three hund- 
red years ago. 

The strangest thing of all though is the supreme dirtiness, squa- 
lour and unsightliness of the whole town of Agra itsself when it 
contains so many of these beautiful structures, some of which I have 
mentioned. It looks something, especially in the native quarters, like 
a collection of Indian villages as ar e found in New Mexico. It covers a 
lot of ground and the crumbling walls and miserable huts give some 
sort of shelter to a dirty wretched and degenerate set of people. The 
splendor of the fine buildings ma kes the squalor stand out so much 
more. Camels stalked silently through the streets, bullock teams and 
dejected looking donkeys jostled the herds of goats and sheep, Mon- 
keys leaped among the tree branches, peacocks and parrots added 
their gaudy colors to the already very strange scene, people barefoot, 
half naked, some picturesquely clothed, and the various shops with 
different workers all added to the weirdness of it all. I saw in one 
place a peculiar low wheeled wagon the lower part being about three 
foot high and all covered around with good sized iron bars making a 
complete and strong cage, the upper part above the top covered with 
bamboo matting containing produce but inside the cage securely lock- 
ed in and all open to the sun sat a woman crouched up. As there was 
nobody near that could speak English I looked in amazement but could 
not find out what it was for, so had to depart with my curiosity un- 
satisfied. The European section of Agra of course was not like this, 
but just the reverse and contained many fine shops, where we saw 
embroidering of the finest kind Queen Alexandria's coronation robe 
having been embroidered here, tha t work is done entirely by men. 

In the marble inlaying shops one of which is the best at that 
work in the world, we saw some beautiful pieces of work in all pro- 



104 

cesses of manufacture, one piece of which was a chancel, being made 
for a church at Washington, D. G. The large rug making establish- 
ment we visited was also interesting, to see those boys they mostly 
were, four or five to a rug deftly tying the various colored threads, 
a man calling out the pattern as they worked. We stopped at a ho- 
tel in the place over night and had a very fine lot of meals well cook- 
ed and of the best, well served by native servants. The rooms 
were all on the ground floor opening both back and front, covered 
mosquito netting doors, and the beds also canopied with it. My 
room had a small back room all cement and in it the galvanized 
wash tub which was filled by the natives from the rear door, and 
from which I took the bath by pouring water over my head, that I 
had begun to like very much. The rooms have no doors and anybody 
can walk in and out of them so that you have a sort of uncanny 
feeling about whether you are safe or not from the natives, beasts or 
reptiles, but I slept pretty soundly anyhow. 

I heard a funny tale about some of the native servants, a gen- 
tleman had a head man, and one day he said to him "Boy" I want 
to make a deal with you, I will give you six rupees more a month 
if you will give me your word you won't steal anything, The serv- 
ant scratched his head a minute and said, all right, and the gentle- 
man slated that for one month his provision bills were only about 
half but at the end of the month Boy came to him and said he was 
going to quit. The master wanted to know what was the matter, he 
sairt he did not like that way of paying, if he stayed any longer he 
wanted to go bacK to the old way. That is a customary thing in In- 
dia that the head and in fact all the . servants expect to steal the 
provisions and get their rake off of course. Possibly where the orig- 
inal idea of onr present American graft come from. 

At noon \\>- were pretty tired as we had gone to bed late and got- 
ten up early and had been going hard all the time and after lunch 
we look g.hcrri.\s for the depot and took our train for Bombay. 

A few words about Delhi, which place onf? the ones who crossed 
India reached, and which is the only really other interesting place 
in the interior of India outside of Agra. There is much for the tourist to 
see there, for it has been the site of an important city for many 
centuries, the Hindoo chronicles going back as far as 1400 B. G. The 
city has passed through many vicisitudes, being first under Hindoo 
rule, then under Mohammedan, and since 1857, the year of !the Mutiny 
the British have had occupation. There is the fort, and a beautiful 
building of white marble, ornamented with rich mosaics, in whose hall 
once stood the famous Peacock Throne, that was carried off by 
the Persians in A. D. 1730, and which v/as variously valued from 
ten million to thirty million dollars. Then there is the Pearl, or Mote 
Mosque, as at Agra, and the Jumma Musjid, the most famous mosque 
in India, as well as the largest. It is said to contain many of the 
relics of Mohammed which the priests show you with great rev- 
erence. It was built in the year 1658 the same time that Shah Jehan 
was deposed by his son and took 6 years to build. Delhi contains 
the famous Golden Mosque into which you are not permitted to go. 
also the Black Mosque that has some fine architectural beauty. 

The Hindoo women wear a great amount of jewelry carrying all their 



105 

wealth in jewels mostly secreted around their body the poorer ones 
i^vould have strings of gold eo ins in great profusion, while the richer 
ones I way told carried as much as fifty thousand dollars worth of 
jewels on their bodies all the time. 

The following poem on India is printed with the permission of 
Mr. Sherman, of Port Huron, Mieh.,one of the tourists on the Cleve- 
land Cruise. 

THE LIGHTS and SHADES of INDIA. 

Then to India, onward cruising, 

Up the slit-brown Hoogly river, 
Outlet of the sacred Ganges, 

Come we next to famed Calcutta- 
Here we find life shown in contrasts, 
Homes palatial, parks and fountains, 
Splendid streets and business buildings, 
Homes and marts of ruling Britons. 
Served by humble, hopeless Hindus, 
Housed in hovels most repulsive. 
Held in bonds of superstition, 

Bound by chains of caste distinctions, 
No more wretched human creatures 

Walk the earth than low caste Hindus, 
Blame the pagan, not the Briton. 

O'er the Hindus sacred city; 
O'er Benares, on the Ganges, 

O'er its scenes and sights repulsive, 
Let us draw the veil of silence; 

Let us hide its ghats and temples, 
Banish from our minds their horrors; 
Hopeless these of reformation, 
, Sunk in darkest superstition. 

Then at Agra, where the Moguls, 
Builded forts, and tombs, and temples, 
Build ed minarets and arches, 
; Let us pause and let us Linger; 

Pause to read the wondrous poem, 
Traced in gems and wrought in marble, 

Love's memorial to a woman. 
To a queen, a wife, a mother, 

See the Taj Mahal at sunrise, 
Through the haze and mists of morning; 

View it in the mellow moonlight, 
When its dome is sheathed with silver. 

Never shall its charms diminish, 
Always shall it breathe a love -song, 
[ Tell the story of devotion 

To the wife of Mosul Jehan. 



106 

Gome we next to modern Bombay, 
Modern in its splendid buildings, 

Oriental in its people 
In the races intermingled 

In its streets and public places, 
Here the Parsee lives and prospers, 

Holds the creed of Zo raster, 
Worships fire and earth and water; 

Gives his body to the vultures 
On the solemn Tower of Silence, 

When the soul has left its confines. 
Strange the scenes we view in Bombay, 

Strange the costumes, strange the people; 
Not in words may they be pictured. 



107 



CHAPTER XVII. 
BOMBAY AND THE RED SEA. 

We left Agra about 2 o'clock 'ijn. the afternoon andi arrived in 
Bombay the next afternoon about four, and the down trip was un- 
eventful except a violent wind and rain storm for about half an hour 
that cooled the air and was the first for several months. 

At Bombay we found carriages waiting to take our party around to 
see the sights of Bombay as we had left for Agra immediately on land- 
ing. We visited the Burning Ghat here but it was not such a grew- 
some sight as at Calcutta, there were more reverence and ceremony 
about it and the fires were built up on a sort of a grate instead of 
being in holes in the ground. Several other things were visited of a 
similiar nature to those we had seen in other places so a descrip- 
tion is not necessary. 

One of the wonders near Bombay is the Ancient Buddhist Cave 
Temple, commonly known as the Elephant Caves. It is about three 
hours journey from Bombay on an island in the face of a steep cliff 
ami is considered one of the largest and most complete specimens of 
Buddhist "chaitya" and was probably built about 78 years before 
Christ by Majarajah Bhuttia. The interior architecture, there being 
of course no exterior architecture resembles to a remarkable degree 
the Gothic type. It is not unlike the Christian Church in form, con- 
sisting of a nave and side isle terminating in an apse. Some fifteen 
pillars separate the nave from the aisles, and the capitol of each pillar 
is richly ornamented with the figures of two elephants bearing a man 
and a woman or two female forms. The methed of lighting is very 
solemn in its effect. An undivided volume of light comes through a 
single opening overhead and falls on the altar, leaving the rest of the 
temple in a comparative darkness. It is entirely hewn out of the rock 
and is indeed a wonderful piece of work and is in a fine state of 
preservation for its age of about two thousand years. The ride there 
is by small boat. 

One of the important things out of the ordinary were the Tow- 
ers of Silence, the burying places of the Parsees, a high caste sect 
thai originally were exiled from Persia about 1655 and came to India 
and made considerable money on cotton during the time of our Civil 
war, and they are still very wealthy now owning considerable of Bom- 
bay at the present time. There are five Towers of diff- 
erent sizes, and. located in a very beautiful little park on a hill at 
the one side of the city.They are made of stone, the largest 25 feet 
high and about 90 feet in circumference. Though they will not allow 
t to see the inside of them there are models which show you the 



108 

construction, the top is grooved! sloping or draining into the centre 
which is a deep pit, the grooves are various sizes for the bodies of men 
women and children. These grooves have a stone wall above the outer 
edge about three feet high so that the top of the tower cannot be seen 
from the outside. The gruesome part of the sight, were seated 
around the wall on these towers, a flock of vultures as many as could 
get places waiting for their feast of the dead. The bodies are taken 
and placed on the top, the doors closed and in a few seconds cover- 
ed with vultures and in less than half an hour the bones are strip- 
ped clean and they are then taken and thrown down the centre well, 
with a little quicklime. They have very fine receiving chapels to 
hold the services in before disposing of the bodies, and the park is 
very prettily arranged having an abundance of flowers, neat appear- 
ing buildings and pretty walks, the only sinister things being those tow- 
ers with their string of scavengers awaiting for their feast. 

This method of interment originates from the veneration the Par- 
sees pay to the elements and their anxiety not to polute them. Fire 
is too highly regarded by Parsees they being fire worshipers, for them 
to allow it to be polluted by burning the dead, and water is equally 
respected almost, and so is earth thence this singular method of 
burial or disposing of the dead has been devised. The Parsees are the 
followers of Zoraster which religion was for centuries the state and 
national religion of Ancient Persia. In 612 A. D. the religion received 
a check at the hands of the Arabs who, with sword in one hand and 
Koran in the other, made the religion of Islam the state and also the 
national religion of the country. But many of those who adhere to 
the faith of their fathers quitted the land for the more hospitable 
shores of India. There position is unique, a mere handful of persons 
among the teeming millions of India and yet who, not only have preserv 
ed their ancient race with the utmost purity, but also their religion 
absolutely unimpaired by contact with others. ■ 

The Taj Mahal Hotel in Bombay is one of or rather one may say 
is the finest in the East, being a massive structure of fine architec- 
ture and at which we were very comfortably housed. The Great Vic- 
toria station at Bombay from which we took our train is also a fine 
massive structure of striking appearance and is very well arranged 
in the interior and is considered one of the finest in the world. 

Many other points of interest visited were Malabar Hill, the fine 
residence section, The Reservoir all under ground, the Mint, Town 
Hall, Zoological Gardens, Custom House, Post Office, Eiphinstone In- 
stitution, and Chamber of Gommerc e; of course in the evening the 
streets containing the life of the town were visited and vice of all 
sorts seen in all its splendor and gaudiness. The British authorities 
seem to let these places alone wherever found on their territorial 
ground, the people doing as they please as long as they keep within 
reasonable grounds and do not com mil any felonious crimes. 

We met at Bombay the rest of the party that left us to cross India 
seventeen days before, everyone in good condition, and their return 
in good health is a fine testimonial to the judgement and ability of Mr. 
Clark, who was severely criticised by Englishmen and others residing 
in India for attempting to take people across India at this time of 
the year. We were led to believe that it would be mighty lucky if 



109 

several of the tourists did not die and that it would be short of a mir- 
acle if some did not have to be carried aboard the ship. 

You could buy clothes very reasonably in India and many also pur- 
chased light clothing in Colombo and Bombay to take home with 
them. You could get a cotton twill suit for as low as one dollar, and 
one made to order coat and pants of pretty good grade for $2.50 which 
was the prevailing price. Silk suits cost you from ten to fifteen dollars 
and of a very fine quality of silk. You could purchase all sorts of 
modern things in Bombay and Calcutta principally, as well as the na- 
tive things, those attracting my attention most being the beautiful 
filagree silver work. 

There were a great many cases of cholera and the bubonic plague 
in the city of Bombay, but it seemed to be confined to certain quar- 
ter although some Europeans caught them and died from one of the other 
of those diseases, it was not in any number at all, the great majority 
of the cases being the natives. Despite that fact, before we were al- 
lowed to go on board the ship leaving Bombay, we were all rigidly in- 
spected by the keen eyed physicians, they felt your pulse.looked at 
your eyes, and checked your name off the list in a rapid manner,, but 
they know the symptoms so well that a glance is all they needed to 
know if you have any sign of it. with all the inspection at Bom- 
bay we were given a close visual inspection at Suez nine days later, 
before we landed in Egypt. A good deal of time was lost getting away 
from Bombay on account of the contractors for the tenders not ful- 
filling their contract, and a large amount of baggage that had to be 
taken on board in large slings. We finally were all ready and pulled 
up anchor at noon on Wednesday April 27th for the nest longest leg 
of our journey, nine days to Suez. 

A good deal of this time was spent by those intending to leave 
the party at Cairo in packing their trunks, and all were closing up some 
of the friendships that had been formed and were of nearly three 
months standing. Many of the farewells were tearful, as there had 
been many attachments formed °n the ship, but the best of friends 
must part some time, though in one case they finally agreed not to 
separate and one couple, Mr. Howard C. Bonsai, of Denver, Col., and 
Miss Katherine Shull, of Minneapoli Minn., were married in London on 
leaving the ship at Southampton. 

Crossing the Indian Ocean we had the monsoon and it was rather 
pleasant, though it is generally warm at this time of the year. The 
nights were beautiful and I sleeping on deck, got the full advantage of 
them. I saw the comet, every morning that the horizon was clear, very 
distinctly, a couple of mornings the tail looked to be about forty feet 
long, is the way I described it, and the moon looked large, nearly two 
feet across, while in the states it looks to be about afoot in diame- 
ter so that you can get an idea from that how large the tail of the 
comet looked in the Indian ocean. The evening and morning stars 
were Aery large and brilliant, be ing about ten times there brilliancy 
al home. The Captain ran the shipas fast as possible across the Indian 
Ocean so a^ to be ahead Qf time when he arrived at the straits 
leading into the Red Sea expecting such sweltering heat that he would 
have to turn the ship around and run backwards for a half hour or so 
occasionally to give the passengers a breath of air; the going through 



110 

the Red Sea generally is considered frightful for the extreme depres- 
sing heat which has caused some to go crazy and throw themselves over 
board and others to expire with the heat. Our usual luck was with 
us as it had been all through the trip, and what we had gotten to call 
Clark luck; for our whole passage up the Red Sea we really had fine 
weather, and a couple of days the people had to wear wraps. The 
Captain stated that of all the twen ty-six trips through that sheet of 
water this was the first that he had had with any degree of comfort 
whatever. 

We were very much criticised by some of the papers and others 
in India for the lack of thank you's and please's and some of the gen- 
eral deportment part of which possibly we deserved, but as regards 
the former, it goes against the grain to use those words in plenty when 
you know you are paying a double price for everything and any ser- 
vice and one must be pardoned for failing to thank the rascal who has 
just picked his pocket. 

Before we went to India had heard of the rule of the Briton 
and entertained strong prejudice against them but after you had been 
there and seen what they are up against, your prejudice turns to ad- 
miration for having done so much and really benefitting the country. 
We could better appreciate the tremendous obstacles to reform in 
the multitudinous array of races and castes with their age long ani- 
mosities and prejudices, . 

The Briton is giving them the best government they ever had. The 
extent of home rule and self government surprised one, Under the 
present competitive civil service the ambitious and competent native 
youth has small cause for comprint. 

India as I said before will have to work out her own complete sal- 
vation, others can but direct and inspire but she cannot be redeemed 
in spite of herself,. India needs a bond that will unitp the many states 
into one nation, the many races into one people, the many castes into 
one social life and the many religions into one faith, and India must 
supply the bond. They have desc ended from mighty men. Their fa- 
thers have invented great religions, founded great philosophies, discov- 
ered great truths, built wonderful palaces, temples and tombs, and 
made India the glory of the world Some day some of these descend- 
ents will become mighty and great for the common good and with wes- 
tern influence arouse itself to the task of India's redemption and in 
that day India will be saved. 

On Thursday the 28th we had an informal dance on the B deck 
which we enjoyed very much and also another on Wednesday the 4th 
of May, while in the Red Sea. There were several Travelers Club meet- 
ings during this trip but I will give a list of them later in the story. 
There was considerable photograph ing going on the last few clays also, 
of the various friendly groups, to have for remembrances of the 
friendships that were formed, and lots of fun was had in getting poses 
etc. The Red Sea is about 1000 miles long and took us nearly four days 
to pass from one end to the other. The Straits at the lower end were 
interesting for the large number of ships passed one of which made 
a lot of excitement, a large Hamburg American liner went by us, only 
about one hundred yards away, loadened with soldiers and marines 
of the German Army and they ma nned the shrouds and sides of the 



Ill 

boat and cheered us heartily, which was just as heartily returned. It 
was a thrilling sight, and as at that time they were expecting trouble 
with China we wondered if they w ould all come back. 

.There is a Lloyd's station on an island in the centre of the straits 
of Babel-Man-Ded from which ever y ship is reported by cable to Lon- 
don, and from thence to the world. It was rather unique here in the 
fact that the land on one side be longed to the French, on the oth- 
er side to Turkey, but the strong fortified island in the middle to 
Great Britain and is really the key to the whole situation even though 
the Suez Canal is run by French. In passing up the Red Sea we Shri- 
ners were much interested in pass ing Mecca, though we knew that 
none other than a Moslem would) dare go there under the pain of 
instant death, it is considered very Holy by the Moslems. The place 
where the children of Israel were supposed to have crossed the Red 
S^a was pointed out to us with much interest, but I guess any old 
place would do for that without much dispute though at one place 
in the bottom of the sea there was a great number of trophies, arms, 
and relics of ancient Egypt found that would help to give the idea 
that it was really where the pursuers of the children of Israel were 
swallowed up by the waters coming back and engulfing them. Mt. Sinia 
was pointed out also to us being one of a group of several mountains 
looking alike. 

We wondered very much where the name of the Red Sea originated 
as there seemed to be nothing red about it, or surrounding it, until 
one morning just for a short time about seven o'clock I in looking o- 
ver the waters discovered that there was a sort of a haze that was dis- 
tinctly red and gave everything a reddish cast, this lasted only until 
the sun got a little higher and a very few on the ship noticed it at 
all, I presume the weather was not right, to produce this haze from 
which the name undoubtedly originates, at the time we passed through 
except for the few minutes that I noticed it. 

We drew into the Gulf of Suez and anchored very early in the 
morning on Friday, May 6th, having been running slow for a couple 
of days,; by some misunderstandingthe trains that were to convey us to 
Cairo from Suez had not been ordered until noon and we were loafing 
all morning waiting for them. The inspection was through with pretty 
early, after the many tedious delays to get all the party together 
and checked up rightly. The morning passed rather lively, though as 
many natives with their wares were permitted to come aboard, and 
they did a land office business, as the people seemed so eager to buy 
that they kept the prices up, and many paid three and four times 
what they would have gotten the article for otherwise, had they not 
seemed so greedy for the wares. They got from one to two pounds 
for silver shawls that you could afterwards have gotten on the streets 
of Cairo for from one quarter to one half a pound. Lunches had 
been made up for us to take with us on the cars but we were delay- 
ed; so long that they had! luncheon in the dining rooms on board the 
ship. This was where I left the ship not to return to it again, al- 
though I did see it again at Port Said on my way to Jerusalem and 
also in New York harbor, it coming out as we were coming in, on my 
way home. I was sorry to part from the many friends I had made 
but eager for new scenes to come as I was going with a small party 



112 

through the Holy Land and Turkey and Greece and from thence on by 
myself around through Europe for two months and home. 

We finally were landed on f latb oats pulled by a tug and docked at 
the railroad station where we immediately took the special train for 
Cairo. The town of Suez is not large, and very modern and con- 
tains nothing interesting at all. The Cleveland started through the ca- 
nal, it being the largest boat that had ever gone through, and it took 
a day and a half to make the eighty eight miles, having to go very 
slow on account of the wash and to give all boats a chance to get 
out of her way, as nothing else could pass her except at the lake turn- 
outs. 

The cars on the Egyptian railroad are the regular European com 
partment corridor cars with seating capacity for six in each com- 
partment and were fairly comfortable. The distance to Cairo was 
one hundred and seventy miles and we reached there about five o'clock 



n oa j i 



113 



CHAPTER XVIII. 
CAIRO. 

The riae to Cairo was for some distance through the Sahara desert 
and was hot and terribly dusty. We saw many camels that seemed 
to be grazing on this sandy waste, on what 1 could not see or find 
out. This sort of country continued for some time when it finally 
began to improve as our train turned eastward and approached the 
Nile delta and the irrigation canals began to make their appearance 
it seemed to be very singular to look across this flat ground and 
see huge sails rise apparently right out of the ground, the water and 
the body of the boat being indistinguishable as they passed along 
these canals. Many miles before we reached Cairo we passed thro- 
ugh some of the most fe r tile country the world has ever seen, here 
two and three crops a year are raised and good ones to, and all in 
the primitive fashion of thousands of years ago with wooden plows 
and hoes, the threshing of grain by cattle tramping it out and then 
he throwing it up into the air for the chaff to blow away. The water 
buffaloes, donkeys, and camel train with the picturesque costumes of 
the natives made a very interesting sight. Everything can be raised on 
this soil, it is said to be! worth seven to eight hundred dollars an a- 
cre for just farming purposes. Water was pumped from the ditches 
over the fields by aid of the slow moving cow or donkey, going around 
in a circle , and even sometimes the camel was pressed into service 
to raise the water over the lands . There was a peculiar machine no- 
I leed worked by the men and boys, a sort of an Archimedes screw. 
Sometimes even a well bucket and sweep was used but nowhere the 
modern engine. All this sort of strange panorama was passing rapid- 
ly before our eyes and made a strange and interesting picture that 
one hated to miss so that you soon forgot the discomforts of the fine 
sand that filled everything the forepart of the journey. 

We arrived in Cairo about half past four o'clock and a few of us 
constituting the first Palestine party who were to leave Cairo ear- 
lier than the rest immediately took carriages and started out sight see- 
ing with a native dragoman, the name for a guide or director in 
that country. He was a very good one, well posted on what he had 
to do, we first visited one of the most representative mosques of 
the city which had a beautifully finished interior and contained 
some tombs, the names of whom I have forgotten now. 

It is called the Sultan Hassan Mosque, is near the Citadel and is 
of vast dimensions, with a massive gateway, and is a most conspicious 
.'andmark in the city. Several times it has been used as a fortress, 
in evidence of which we saw lodged in the outer walls some cannon 
balls which the French had fired from the CitadeL This mosque is 



■ill 

the great national monument of Cairo, and was built at an expense 
of about sixty million piastres. There are a great many workmen 
repairing parts of it at the present time. 

We went next to the Citadel on she heights and just at sunset 
where we got a fine panoramic view of the city, with the pyramids 
in the distance surrounded by the desert and the many hundreds of 
miaarets from the many mosques dotting the city view like f ancy gi- 
gantic candles, it made a very pretty and interesting sight and one 
which we enjoyed for some little time with our field glasses, some- 
thing which I advise everybody to carry a good pair whenever they 
go on a trip of this kind. 

I might also mention here before I forget it, to take along with 
you also a small anueroid barometer, a good compass and a small 
but reliable thermometer, if you do not you will wish for them many 
times. Do not take cameras with complicated shutters, they are a 
nuisance and will often fail you just at times when you wish them 
the worst. A small neat No. 1 A Eastman Folding Pocket Kodak with 
a very fine lens, get the best and leave on it the ordinary shutter, 
and you will have something that is always there when you need it, 
the fine lens will give you sharp prints that can easily be enlarged 
if you wish, and make good pictures Many of the fine shutters on the 
various Kodaks on the ship went all to the bad in the warmer cli- 
mates, while those who had the simple cameras and shutters ob- 
tained good exposures at nearly any time they wished, and the op- 
portunities on these trips only comes once at a time and that is the 
last of them. 

The most beautiful mosque in Cairo is the one in this citadel, be- 
ing of alabaster and finely decorated, but not the handsome carving 
and inlaying that was found in the mosques in India. 

We after visiting the citadel returned to the hotel which had 
been assigned to us while in Cairo, about all the party being 
assigned to either the Continental or the Shepards, the two best ho- 
tels in the city of any size at all, they had been kept open especially 
for our party, as it was late for the regular Cairo season. These 
hotels are very good, have nice rooms, and gave us good meals, 
though the service was not quite as good as it might be. 

In the evening I started out with a couple of friends to take 
a stroll through the city, for Cairo is at both its best and worst at 
night. It can only lay the claim to being the most thoroughly de- 
praved and wicked city on the earth for its size, it is said to con- 
tain about a million inhabitants and although Egypt is under Brit- 
ish control the French influence predominates everywhere and is 
to be seen in the preponderance of French names and the use of 
the French language. The sidewalks and even the streets in front 
of the cafes are filled with tables like in Paris, and they are a great 
place for the men to congregate in the evenings to smoke, drink and 
visit and play games, the one game you see the most of being backgam- 
mon. 

We were accosted on every side in our walk about the city by 
an army of dragomen to go and visit the "Hootchy-kootchy" dance, 
the dance with naked women, and would suggest to you all sorts of 
vileness or indecency that could possibly be thought of. Abandoned 
women walk the streets and accost you, but they are mostly in the 



115 

doorways or on the second story balconies of the principal public 
streets of the town half dressed, and call down to you to come up. 
Possibly there are some places as bad in American cities, such as 
New Orleans, but it is not flouted to such an extent on the streets 
and especially the main ones, as here in Cairo, It may be possible 
that they have sunken to much lower depths of depravity here 
than elsewhere, which would accox nt for the flaunting of it in your 

f RCGS 

One of the worst things that strikes you in Cairo besides this 
depravity, and one you are sorely tempted to strike and often I did, 
was the horde of dragomen and peddlers of all kinds, and their 
persistency and impudence and insolence is something beyond the 
imagination, that it often took a hard cuff to make them let you 
alone. There seem to be hundreds of thousands of them, and of all 
ages and condition. The little fellows are amusing with their impu- 
dence and their quickness and cleverness, but the men are the 
limit and so insufferably insolent when they find they cannot work 
you that you often longed to hit them with a club. They are a ly- 
ing, cheating, pestiferous lot, but at that they are an improvement 
over the dispirited Hindoos. They are sharp at repartee and some- 
times made you laugh at them despite the annoyance they caused 
you, giving you many of the latest versions of New York and London 
slang in their answers or remarks. 

A man will ask ten piastres for a string of beads and when you 
offer him two he will with a disdainful look say, here take it for 
nothing I don't need the money, but he will finish in a few seconds 
by taking the two, and he would have taken even less if you had 
of stuck out long enough. They will start out by asking you twen- 
ty-five piastres for a scarab and finally sell it to you for one pias- 
tre if you got patience to wait awhile and business is bad, and even 
at that you are not getting the worth of your money. 

I will relate here that the Turkish money or unit is a piastre 
which is about five cents, twenty of them make what they call a Medji 
die or turkish dollar, and the paistre is divided into Milhemes 
ten of them making an piastre. But all sorts of gold was taken in Cairo 
and the French and English silver was readily taken every place, and 
money changers abounded who tookany sort of money you had and 
changed it for you at a cost of about one or two per cent. 

These scarabs ace made here by the ton and cost about 25 cents 
a thousand at the factory, and the imitation is often as good as the 
real one, so it takes experts to tell them. Scarabs are images of 
a beetle which the ancient Egyptians held as symbolical of the mys- 
tery of life; they were put in large quantities in the graves with the 
mummies and that is where the old real ones come from and from 
the designs of which the copies are made. They are generally made 
of stone of some kind or other and many are made of gold and silver 
and in fact there is no material found in ancient Egypt of which 
they were not made, in the museum beautiful rubies and emeralds 
were found that were carved into scarabs. They have some symbol 
of different natures carved on the bottom of them, and many of these 
hieroglyphics found on them have helped solve some of the ancient 
problems. 



116 

The flies are worse there than anyone can believe, our flies in the 
fall here are sometimes rather persistent but they are angels along 
side of the Egyptian fly. No bluff you make in their direction will 
drive them away and you soon learn to account for seeing the men 
carrying around all sorts of fly brushes made of principally white 
horse hair with ivory handles, and the cheaper ones of split palm 
leaves. You soon purchased one for yourself as they would not leave 
until struck and brushed off by this fly brush, and they let you know 
they were doing business at the same old stand until you did use 
strong measures and language both. Ones disgust with them is intensifi- 
ed into terror and dread by the fact that theyspread the terrible 
eye disease which is one of the afflictions of Egypt. As you go 
along the street you will pass half a dozen men in succession who 
have or have hadsomething the matter with their eyes, and it seems 
to be as though fifteen or twenty per cent of the people have lost 
one eye or both, You pass the babies and children afflicted with the 
disease and even the pity you feel feel for the poor little things is 
submerged into disgust until you are almost nauseated when you see 
the flies swarming on them and making black patches where the 
eyes should be and where they rest undisturbed. 

When I landed in Cairo we found so many of the Moslems wear- 
ing the red fez's like the Shriners in this country, that I immediately 
purchased one and finding them so light and comfortable, and they 
stayed on your head so well under all conditions that I wore it almost 
constantly from that time until I landed in Italy three weeks later. 
It made some of the Moslems look a little, and many of the dragomen 
and guides dubbed me Pasha both here and in Turkey. 

They have a different) , way of carrying babies from anything I had 
seen previous. In Japan the baby is carried by the men, women, and 
children, sometimes the child is hardly as large as the baby that it 
carries, it is carried in a sort of a pocket on the back in the loose 
garment that is worn. In China it is carried in a sort of a sling with 
the legs straddling the back and the arms around the neck. In India 
they set the baby astride one or the other of the hips, either holding- 
it or fastened with a strip of cloth loosely tied around the waist. In 
Egypt the baby is seated astride one or the other shoulder with 
the legs hanging down front and back of the carrier. 

They have good horses in Cairo as a mode of conveyance as well 
as the favorite donkey and the camel. The flower gardens in some- 
parts of the city were very beautiful, especially the roses, which 
were of a very luxuriant growth and the acacia tree with its pur- 
ple blooms was a close rival with the beautiful flame of the forest 
tree in India for massive flower splendor. The donkey boys are the 
whole show though, and the methods they use is often very laugha- 
ble. The names of the donkeys changes with the nationality of the 
visitor. If an Englishman happens to come along the boy will op- 
purtune him to ride his donkey "Him fine donkey him name King 
Edward" the next day it happens to be an American who the boy 
wishes to get for a customer and his donkey is a fine one and "him 
name President Roosevelt" one of the funny things though was one 
of the boys said his donkey's name was Susan B. Anthony "Him fine 
donkey try him". When riding the you sit far back right over the 



117 

hind quarters and the feeling is a very funny one, especially when 
they make them trot or gallop though you soon learn how to stick 
on. 

We took carriages and drove out to the pyramids Saturday morn- 
ing, they being about five miles out, and the carriages stop at the 
foot of the hill on which the pyramids stand, the drivers being in 
league with the donkey, and camel men, and as it is quite a distance 
to the pyramids in a sandy walk and the wish to try some of the other 
modes of conveyances made you decide to try one. I chose the 
camel and after a couple of free fights among the camel men as to 
who would get you and the price you were to pay; which you should 
always set before hand, and which in ordinary times is one shilling, 
but with a crowd you can hardly get for less than two shillings thou- 

ugh they will ask you from four to eight; the camel is made to kneel 

and you climb on, then the sensation begins, first he rears up behind 
and unless you brace yourself and lean away back you go off over his 
head, then he rears up in front andif you do not look carefully you 
will go over backwards. I set astride, at first and tried to get used to 
the ungainly motion, as in a short distance you would feel as though 
you were being jerked to pieces, until you learned to move your 
body in unison with his gait then it was easier but even I became 

a little stiff and uncomfortable, so watching around I noticed one 
of the camel boys riding with his legs crossed in front on top of the 
camel and I tried! that, found thd motion, soon saw that was the easy 

way to ride. After you had gone up the bill a piece some outsider 
came along and wish to tell you something and act as guide and 
slick to you like a leach and insist on pay though you told him to get 
out, until you felt like hitting him a clout, then the camel men would 
stop and say that was all thefurther they were to take you for that 

money and want more, and I threatened to kill the whole crew of 
them unless they went on, before I finally got them to take me the 
rest of the ride to the Sphinx and back. 

The' pyramids impressed one with their great majesty rising out of 
that sand desert to the great height and their great size and the 
size of the stones that composed them. You know what they look 
like but unless you have actually seen them you have no idea of the 
magnitude of the former, and the mysterious charm of the latter, 
than the flavor of some delightful confection from having looked at 
it, or rather a picture of it. There are three of the great pyramids, the 
largest being built by Cheops, who ruled Egypt nearly six thousand 
years ago. It is not alone 1 the! hoary antiquity of these marvelous 
works of man that impress one nor their massiveness to a degree; it 
is the thought of the civilization which they symbolize, of the re- 
ligion and art and the glory of the people who carried forward to com- 
pleton a task so stupendous in days when all work by strength a- 
lone and without the appliances on which modern builders rely. The 
pyramids are much rougher in appearance than one expects. They 
are like a huge flight of steps of rough stones of irregular size and 
originally the steps were filled in and the whole pyramid presented 
a smooth surface covered with strange carvings and paintings. There 
were also stone gateways and precincts, but these have disappeared 
ami i,he pyramids stand solid amid tan desert sands. The Cheops pyr- 



118 

amid which is the largest covers 10 acres and is 451 feet high. The 
irregular blocks of stone which it is built are from two to three feet 
in height. It is a solid mass of stone und hardly conceivable that 
the.se great blocks of stone could have been placed in position by 
sheer human strength unaided by the. devices of the present times. 

The interior of the pyramid is rather a tiresome trip to explore 
but interesting to an extent. Providing yourself with candles you 
climb tht north side of the pyramid some distance from the bottom to 
an entrance from which point you make a rapid descent into the inter- 
ior sort.e ways below the surface, followed alter by a long siege of 
climbing along the slippery stones tiuough the great gallery up to the 
King's Chamber or tomb. Here half way to the top inside is a room 
thirty- four feet long, seventeen feet wide, and nineteen feet high. 
Keystones are used in these days to support roofs of modern rocks; 
but here a perfect flat roof of huge horizontal blocks of granite, so 
closely fitted that you could not detect the slightest opening between 
them. 

I did not climb the pyramid on account of the lack of time and al- 
so the lack of inclination, principally the latter. But for those who 
wish to there is a fine view and makes you realize more than ever 
the immensity of them, one party said after doing the job he "just 
couldn't make his legs behave". 

Many writers are disappointed in the Sphinx they do not seem to 
be impressed with it from what they say about it. I was not disap- 
pointed and I found it really more than I expected, possibly aided 
somewhat by Dr. Phillips talk on it before we had reached Cairo, 
size has nothing to do with the impression the sphinx makes and 
it is really greatly dwarfed by the great pyramids along side but it 
is really large and would be quite a wonder elsewhere as it is 190 
feet long and 65 feet high and is carved out of a single block of stone 
with supplementary masonry. Its impressiveness lies not in the mag- 
nitude, although in size it is not disappointing but in the attributes 
with one's imagination invests it, and the inscrutable mystery which 
compells one to climb the sand hill in front of it and try to see 
what it has been gazing at through centuries across the river to the 
desert beyond. It is a wonderful thing and grows upon you with 
time and the mystery of the dead civilization which it represents and 
recalls. 

Dr. Phillips of Binghampton N. Y. whose lectures and talks and ser- 
mons on the cruise have been one of the most delightful and profita- 
ble features of the cruise, in his lecture on Cairo spoke of two ways 
in which man might express his sense that God could not be imag- 
ined; Either by symbolizing him no where or by symbolizing him 
everywhere and continued: 

"Herein lies the meaning of the Sphinx, or, if you please, the 
answer to the riddle of the Sphinx. This gigantic, mysterious figure, 
of unknown origin, older than the oldest pyramid, carved out of solid 
rock, supplemented with some masonry, stands on the edge of the 
great Libyan desert facing the east. It is about 65 feet in height and 
190 feet in length. For unaccounted centuries it was almost, or en- 
tirely, buried under the Egyptian sands. Beneath it is a beautiful 
temple whose entrance is between the extended paws of the great fig- 



119 

ure. Like the great pyramid, this magnificient monster was once 
covered with red granite, highly polished, thai would shine like a 
mirror under the beams of the eastern sun. 

The granite facing has been lorn away from botn the pyramid 
and sphinx and built into the splendid palaces and mosques of Cairo. 
That wonderful face which has gazed across the fiery sands of the 
deseri for unknown thousands of years, marking the coming and go- 
ing of '"very historical empire, although worn by time, scarred by the 
wind driven sand that has beaten upon it and mutilated both by the 
moslem fanatic and the modern relic hunter, still impress any be- 
holder with its singular expression of thoughtfulness and dignity, of 
solemnity and majesty. 

Ever since modern man has stood in this August presence he 
lias been asking, "What does it mean? Why was it built? What is 
the significance of this colossal wonder? It may sound like an un- 
pardonable presumption; my claim may appear like an unsubstantial 
monument of colossal egotism, but I firmly believe that one day as I 
sat on the extended paw of the great image, I caught, in outline 
at least, the answer to the riddle of the sphinx. And may I say that 
while my answer has been submit Led to archaeological societies and 
interested individuals in both America and Europe, its essential claim 
has never been denied or seriously questioned. Into matters of detail 
I cannot go in this lecture, but I confidently believe, and can sup- 
port my belief with some show of reason, that the sphinx was intend- 
ed as the great hieroglyphic of Egypt's belief in the unity and im- 
manence of God, the supreme symbol of their monotheistic faith. In 
(his figure you have the face of a man with the serpent upon the 
I he body of a lion, the wings of a bird, and the scale of a fish; every 
expression of sentient life; man, forehead, the breasts of a woman 
male and female, beasts, birds, fish, and reptile; the result is not a 
monstrosity. 

Unity is there, and the unit is life, and God is life. He is the in- 
visible bond that unites into one the various species of the creation. 
They are all sharers in one life; they all manifest the one God. He 
dwells in them all. In Him they all live and move and have being. 
The Sphinx was not intended to image God, it was not an object of 
image worship, but a sublime symbol of the One Great Mystery of 
Life everywhere apparent, nowhere seen, by nobody understood, but 
worshiped by the Egyptians as the one self existent, creating uni- 
fying, sustaining power of the uni verse under the ineffable name of 
H. T. R. The spirit of life. Without any reasonable doubt it was 
this faith that the Egyptian tried to express in all his great religious 
symbols. He saw God everywhere, in the heaven, in the earth, in the 
land, in the water, in man, in animal, in all." s 

We next visited the New Musem and it is well worth some time 
spent there for its enormous collection of the ancient history of Egypt 
in relics of all sorts and kinds that have been recovered from their 
burial of centuries. The Tombs of the Caliphs and also the Tombs of 
the Mamelukes were visited and have some interest but not strong. 
Following the beaten tracks of tourists the one original Coptic Church 
which is the most, fjamous one on account of the tradition that in 
its crypt away under ground Mary and Jesus rested in their flight in 



120 

Lo Egypt from persecution of Herod. It is difficult to find the Coptic 
Churches, since they are hidden away in obscure corners, and there 
is no tapering spires or Gothic lowers to indicate their location. 
In these churches there are no seats, worshipers sit or stand, there 
i ■ • ao decorations. In one compartment there is a well containing 
holy water which, on Thursday of Holy week, the priest performs 
Lhe ceremony of washing the ijeet of the congregation. 

We next visited the pretty little Isle of Pdioda in the bosom of 
the Nile. It is frequented by native pleasure seekers who cross on 
a little ferry that looks as if it was the same one used in the time 
i »f Moses, it being on this Isle that Moses was supposed to have been 
found by Pharoh's daughter. On the southern end of the Island are 
two Nileometers, one being new ami the other very old. They are 
used to get the accurate height of the Nile at all times of the year. 
The old one is the octagonalcolumnof red granite rising thirty feet 
from the bottom of a circular well. The other is embedded in a stone 
wall that stands on the edge of the stream. 

The picture of the street sprinkler that is found in the mural dec- 
orations of tombs three thousand years old, is represented in the sa- 
me life of today, with their water bags made of goat skins with the 
openings tied up. 

The snake charmer and trained monkey boys arq a familiar sight 
everywhere. The camel and the donkey were often seen hitched to- 
gether as a team pulling a wagon or a plow. The lemonade vendor 
with his huge brass tank\ on his back! and all the spigots and para- 
phanelia to make any sort of a drink on tap, the clacking noise with 
which ho announced his coming, all tended to make him an interest- 
ing sight. 

There are said to be between three and five hundred mosques in 
Cairo, but many of them are in ruins, as they are very generally 
never repaired, but anew one built instead by the rich Mohammedan, 
which is regarded as an act of piety. The Copts are a Christian 
sec;t. The coffee served is as described by some one, thick as night, 
sweet as love, and black as hell, it is very strong and is served in 
tiny cups, it is good though; and I liked it very much. 

There are many interesting points to visit surrounding Cairo but 
time (was short and on Sunday our party left for Port Said to take 
the boat to go to Jaffa. Port Said at the Mediterranean end of 
the Suez canal is said to be without a doubt the most cosmopolitian 
and most wicked city in the world where life is not held to be worth 
a pinch of salt. The Cleveland lay alongside the dock to await the pas- 
sengers who were going on it, who would come down on Monday. They 
sailed from there arriving in Naples in three days. The last Travellers 
Club meeting; was held before reaching Naples. The fancy dress ball 
was a great success. The Cleveland stayed at Naples one day and 
about four hundred passengers left the ship there for their different 
tours through Europe. A one days visit was made to the points of 
interest around Naples, when the ship pulled out for Gibraltar, the 
next stop, there were about twenty left for a trip through Spain. The 
next stop was Southampton when 1G0 more took the S. S. America for 
New York and home. A few went with the Cleveland around to Ham- 
burg? from which place the Cleveland resumed her regular Atlantic 
trips. 



121 

The Suez canal carries an enormous amount of shipping and is 
a great paying investment though the builder died a pauper, but at 
the .Port Said entrance stands a fine bronze monument of DeLesseps 
the man whosq brain devised and carried through this great project; 
though to-day the Panama Canal is much larger and a much more dif- 
ficult engineering problem, still he also was the first to make plans 
for that one, but died a pauper through bad financiering. It cost our 
vessel a toll of nearly thirty thousand dollars for the goin# through 
Suez and would have cost two dollars per head more if the passen- 
gers had been taken through on it but we left it at Suez and came 
back to it at Port Said. 

High signal posts at regular intervals are a part of a block sys- 
tem which greatly facilitates travel and makes possible the travelling 
of ships by night. Though the majority of the stock is owned by the 
-British, the control is in Fre)ich hands and they certainly harvest 
it for all it is worth, there are said to be a hundred employees on the 
pay roll, all French of course, who could not even tell you where the 
canal is located. Despite all this it still pays very large dividends. 

Dredges are being kept continually al work widening and deepen 
ing the canal. 



As I left the Cleveland' party' at Cairo I will append a list of 
the Travellers Club meetings, and also of the Lectures that were 
held, together with the dates, subjects, and the presiding officers, or 
lecturers. 

(The Passenger and other lists appear at end.) 

TRAYELLERS CLUB. 





Date. 


Subject 


Chairman. 


Feb. 


14th. 


Honolulu 


D. E. Lorenz 


Mar. 


4th, 


Yokohoma, Tokio, Nikko 








and vicinity, 


Prof. Trueblood 


Mar. 


9th, 


Kobe, Osaka, & Kioto, 


M. P. McRae 


Mar. 


19th, 


China, 


D. W. Smouse 


Mar. 


23rd, 


Manila, 


Thos. Uzzell, 


Apr. 


1st, 


Borneo, Java, Singapore, 


L. A. Sherman. 


Apr., 


7th, 


Burma, 


E. W. Edwards, 


Apr. 


15th, 


Calcutta, Darjeeling and 








Benares, 


C. D. Clark, 


Apr. 


29th, 


Ceylon, 


D. E. Lorenz. 


May 


3rd, 


India, 


Wm. A. Jones, 


May 


5th, 


Western India, 


F. J. Howell, 


May 


10 th, 


Egypt 
LECTURES. 


A. A. Crane. 


Feb. 


9th. 


Honolulu, 


Lorenz, 


Feb. 


18th, 


Japan, 


Greenfield, 


Feb. 


23rd, 


China, 


Trueblood, 


Mar. 


14th, 


Manila, Java & Borneo, 


Lorenz, 


Mar. 


2ith, 


Singapore i Rangoon, 


Phillips, 


Apr. 


8th, 


India, 


Phillips, 



122 



Apr. 16th, 
May 2nd, 



Feb. 15th, 
Apr. 30th, 
Feb. 22nd, 
May 4th, 



Ceylon, 
Cairo and Naples, 

OTHER LECTURES. 

Illustrated Passion play. 
Trees, 
Washington's Birthday, 
Adventure Meeting. 



Phillips, 
Phillips, 



F. W. Schofield 
Jno. T. Withers, 



123 



CHAPTER XIX. 
JERUSALEM. 

Our small party of ten sailed from Port Said about 5 P. M., Sun- 
day, May 8th for a one hundred and twenty mile ride to Jaffa, 
the'port for Jerusalem. The boat as named the Minieh and seemed 
small to us after the large Cleveland, Before we were out} on the 
Mediterranean very long she was bouncing along like a cork and in 
a short time some of the party were rather indisposed and went 
to their berths early and stayed there until we dropped anchor off 
the port of Jaffa. Jaffa was all it has been pictured in the Bible 
and othor places, with its rocky coast and treacherous breakers 
and we were all very much interested with the way the boatmen 
handled their little boats in the high sea that was running. There 
were many of them all trying to gain points of advantage to be) 
the first on board after the health officers were through as all of 
I hem were runners for hotels or tourists bureaus and after they got 
on board the fun began, at first words, then blows, and soon knives 
were drawn and we who had safely ensconsed ourselves on the upper 
.leek looked down with both fear and amusement. The way the 
thing was handled after a little blood was drawn, the Captain blew 
liis whistle for the police boat, a; few of them, and a couple of the 
real turbulent ones were thrown off the ship, and the excitement cool- 
ed down, and then began the difficult task of trying to get in the 
small boats from the small gangway, one minute the boat would be 
three feet below the gangway and the next two feet above, and it 
required a great deal of dexterity to keep the boats from being smash 
ed against the steps and ship. Twobig husky fellows grabbed you bod- 
ily and lifted you into the boat where you sat down unceremonious- 
ly and the next minute a wave, would come along the ship and give 
you a good bath that was not down on the bill of fare. We finally 
got loaded and turned for the shore having to go around the treach- 
erous rocks that poked their ugly looking heads out of the sea and 
soon got behind them into a small breakwater, where we landed at 
the little quay, had our baggage passed and started under the guid- 
ance of a native to see the few points of interest in Jaffa, prepara- 
tory to lunching at noon at the little Hotel Park and taking the two 
o'clock train for Jerusalem. Jaffa at one time an important place 
gradually fell into decay, but in the last decadle has taken on great 
strides and growinjg very rapidly so that there were many new build- 
in'gs in the place, but still enough of the" old and historic to interest 
you for a time. 

The identical jagged reef which we passed around and which we 



124 

caniei through when we weire going out is the one that is poinded out, 
l hat Andromeda was chained to one of the rocks, and from which she 
was released by Perseus whose prowess is commemorated by one of 
the most brilliant constellations in the sky. Jaffa was the port at 
which was landed the Cedar of Lebanon sent by Hiram King* of Tyre 
to Jerusalem for the building' of King Solomon's temple. It was al- 
so from this port that Jonah was said to have sailed on the; famous 
voyage which he concluded in the belly of the whale. 

The town contains about forty thousand inhabitants, now ship- 
ping a great many oranges, of which the town is surrounded with 
numerous groves. Jaffa, Yaffa, Joppa, and Japha are the 1 names 
the town has mostly had, the first being 1 the one used at the present 
time. According to Pliny it is said to have existed before the Flood 
and is named after Japhet one of the sons of Noah. The Moslem 
cemetery is one of the places of interest and amusement in the place 
the' funniest thing being a group <if professional praying men who 
will recite the Koran at the rate of five cents a chapter. 

There are several infirmaries, hospitals, etc, ran by different de- 
nominations for the benefit of all, as well as several schools run 
under foreign sources. There is much of interest around Jaffa but 
lack of time prevented us seeing it. i n earlier days it was the cus- 
tom to come to Jaffa hire a dragoman of which there are several 
good ones, and who will for a consideration of about five dollars a 
day apiece will take all the expense and trouble from you and drive, 
ride, and camp all over the whole country which makes it the most 
interesting and best way to see the country. 

The trip by train which is a narrow guage road is made in about 
lour hours from Jaffa to Jersualein though the distance is only fifty 
two miles miles by rail, and thirty six by road. Some very steep 
grades are climbed and some parts of the country are very fertile and 
others extremely barren. 

The road for the first twenty miilas runs through the rich plains 
on which the Philistines lived, and where today the cow and donkey 
are hitched together to the plow and camels are also seen pulling the 
plow as! well' as doing (the burden bearing. The land remains fertile 
to the mountains a distance of about twenty miles, then the train climbs 
up into the most rocky country you have likely ever seen. This part 
of the (journey is also over historicground, all of it having been trod- 
den by Samson, and you pass by places that the guides tell you was 
where he was born, where he lived, where he was buried, and many 
other items long forgotten. The site of the ancient city of Gezer is 
passed where so much has been discovered of late by the Palestine Ex- 
ploration Fund, there being, it is said, seven cities one on top of the 
other, each representing a different civilization and down at the bot- 
tom layer there is said to be found i J elics v of the stone ages. 

The railroad was finally built by the French find is a narrow 
L;uage with cars like street cars the rate is six cents a mile, it has fair- 
ly good terminal depots and has been in operation about eighteen 
years. Railroads are being built over the country in many places 
now,; and soon Palestine will be accessable at any part with ease. 

Jerusalem lies about 2600 feet 'above sea level and has a rather 
nice climate, from there it is a rapid fall of four thousand feet to 



125 

the Dead Sea that is about fourteen miles distant. 

Jerusalem has many small hotels, but few of them beinjg any 
good though we stopped at the Hotel Fast and eould not have had 
nicer accommodations, and the meals were all that could be desired, es- 
pecially the honey they gave you m the morning. There are a great 
number of Hospices there of most of the nationalities of Europe.that 
also gives accommodation to travelers, the persons who are able they 
expecl to get pay from, the poor pilgrim is not charged. 

The present city of Jerusalem not including the extensive suburbs 
is enclosed by a wall varying in height from ten to seventy feet it 
is two and a half miles in circuit and has seven gates. The present 
walls in the main were erected by Ottoman Sutan Soliman in the year 
1510. The gates are named Damascus Gate on the North that is con- 
sidered the handsomest; Herod's Gate,; St. Stephen's Gate; The Gold- 
en Gate, not now in use; The Dung Gate; The Gate of Zion;; The Jaffa 
Gate and now the recently opened gate at the North West Angle of 
the city 

Jerusalem at one time said to have a million population in the 
heyday of her glory about the time of King Solomon now has about 
fifty eight thousand people of whom eight thousand are priests of the 
different sects who live off these poor people. 

Most of the foreign population live outside of the walls of the city 
with the' exceptions of the occupants of the Hospice, that are loca- 
ted inside the city, and the feNv foreign priests and monks. 

The original mounts on which Jerusalem is builded spoken of in 
the Bible, such as Mount Moriah (on which the temple was located) 
Mount Acra (on which was the lower city) and Mount Zion have all 
had the valleys between them nearly lev-'ed up, filled with tn<-. de- 
bris of the ruin of ancimt t-me? aB one* place our guide said the 
ruins extended one hundred and fifty feet deep. Jerusalem has 
benn rebuilt and destroyed many many times in the ancient past 
and so many walls built and destroyed that it is hard to say. where 
the original wall is, and which now helps to make the controversy as 
! » where Calvary originally was, thcile being another hill just out- 
i ! ' [ho Damascus gate called Bezetha in which is the cave of Jere- 
miah and which rocky top is supposedby many to be the real Calvary, 
it being outside the present wallsi of Jerusalem. But just lately in 
excavating for another Hospice there was run across what is surely 
-.aid in be "- -> old wall of Jerusalem of the Christian era which would 
leave the present Calvary outside of the walls of the old city, though 
it is inside the walls of the present city, which helps the present loca- 
tion and controversy as to the real Calvary. 

There are so many thir/gs to interest one of aii sort,-*, that you 
could write a dozen books on Jersualem. Opposite this Bezetha Hill 
down aways from Damascus Gate is the entrance to King Solomon's 
quarries into Which a few of us went one night. About 30 years 
ago a man was hunting and his dog chased a rablbit into some bushes 
at the base of the walls. He waited a few minutes and no dog ap- 
peared, he started to hunt for him and discovered an opening that has 
been hidden for centuries as it is supposed, and after getting aid 
and some lights went into this cave and there discovered evidence 
of the handiwork of man in an extensive underground quarry, as all 
around were cut blocks of marble of a beautiful fine grain, and on 
the walls of this cave were some of the blocks not all having been 



\ 126 

cut out, while standing in the wall to be later chiseled off from the 
hack and taken down. Many were keystones. The cave seems to ex- 
.' end in for about one third of a mile in some places, having had 
material taken out that would make it over a hundred fe'et deep. It 
is located directly under the sight of the Temple, and the stone was 
wvidently quarried, and cut, and dressed, down under the ground, 
and then lifted up through some well hole, not yet found, and set 

in place on the walls. The marble is soft and when first taken out 
can bo cut with a knife, but gets a little harder with exposure to 
the- air. |it lias a peculiar glistening effect which would be dazzling 
in the suns rays. 

The south eastern corner of the wall of Jerusalem and about all 
the eastern wall is the edge of theplate;au upon which the Temple at 
one time stood. In the middle of the eastern side oi the temple is 
what is known as the Golden Gate. It has been walled up, the Mo- 
hamedans say it will not be opened until the judgement day. The 
city walls adjoining; the temple were among the first that were built, 

they are in fine condition today, some of the original foundation 
stones are oi enormous size, one being about thirty feet long" and ten 
feet hig'h and very thick and many nearly that large are found. The 
plateau on which the temple stood has been made by the building up 
of the hill with the aid of the walls to make a level space for the 
temple to sit upon. In under will be found the stables which were 
connected with the temple, builded and arched over with these enor- 
mous stones, with the original holes through the pillars, which it is 
said the Roman soldiers made to tie their horses too, and also the 
original stone mangers from which the horses were fed. These are 
Hiity to seventy feet below the regular plateau above, that marks the 
level on which the temple was erected. The site of the temple cov- 
ers a apace of about one sixth oi the whole city of Jerusalem and 
is as cleanly as the rest off the city is dirty and contrasts agreeably 
with the crowded squalor f the adjacent portion of the city. This 
enclosure is called, as a whole by the Mosiems, the Haram or Holy 
Place. Legends attached to the Sacred Stone now covered by the 
dome of the rock and builded over this, the beautiful Mosque of Omar 
a marvelous piece of Mohamedan architecture, show that this has 
been the chosen spot for worship of God under one off His num - 
berless names from earliest antiquity. 

The Holy Rock itself is 57 feet long and 43 feet wide rising 6 fee! 
ground and hovering as faithful Mohammedans assert without sup- 
port over the cavern, which, through a hole in the mck has re- 
ceived the blood of innumerable sacrifices in all ages; ifor here 
Abraham warshipped, and offered sacrifices and burnt offerings, and 
Eliah and David; Jesus an Mohammet have prayed there. The Ark 
of the covenant is supposed to be buried below on which account no 
Jew would venture to cross thethreshold of the Mosque of Omar, 
least he should unwittingly profane the Holy of Holies by his tread. 
The dome of the Rock (which js the right name fr>r the Mosque oj 
Omar), and the Mosque El Aksa, are the two structures on the pres- 
ent temple site. The first was built ahout 697 A. D. and has four 



127 

doo»"s or gates leading to each poiut of the compas. ni» Duilded of 
parts of other edifices and contains two of the pillars of the original 
King Solomon's temple. It is beautifully decorated and has many pret- 
ty mosaics. There is no doulit if the Turkish government would 
permit excavation on this site, that much unknown ancient history 
could be cleared up. The relics of the first temple may still be tra- 
ced, it is said there is nothing at all of the second temple built by 
the Jews on their return from captivity; while the third temple built 
by Herod, a little still remains. 

The country around is devoid of trees and shrubery, except 
the few fruit and olive trees and fuel is an expensive article. A 
common fuel here is charcoal, which is made mostly of olive wood. 
The chief manufactories of" it are at Hebron, about 23 miles south 
of Jerusalem, near the cove in which Abraham, Isaac and Jacob are 
buried and where tradition says Adam died. Water is also scarce 
being but a six inch rainfall each year, most of the time, and al! 
houses have their pools drained from the roofs. The pools of Sol- 
omon were connected with Jerusalem but the original aqueduct-. 
were totally destroyed and only a small pipe supplies water now, 
and that mostly to the Mosque of Omar, The poolsare hollowed out of 
the rock and rested each one higher than the other, and had a total 
capacity of forty million gallons. 

Pools are found everywhere and many of the famous ones oE 
the bible are still* pointed out by the dragomen. The pool of Heze- 
kiah is right in the heart of the city close by the church of the Ho- 
ly Sepulchre and the double pool of Bethseda near the wall ofl the 
city has just been discovered down eighty feet deep in the ground. 

The streets of Jerusalem are very peculiar, some are steep, all 
are narrow, some are vaulted over and covered with houses. There 
are several chief streets that are long and that distinctly bound the 
different quarters of the city. The street leading from the Damas- 
cus gate divides the Moslem quarter on the east from the Christian 
quarter on the west and farther on the same thoroughfare sep- 
arates the Jewish quarters on the east from the Armenian on the 
west. David's Street which leads from the Jaffa gate to the site of 
Solomon's Temple first separates the Christian on the North from 
the Armenian on the south and later on it divides the Moslem on the 
North from the Jewish on the south. The Via Dolorosa (the road 
to Calvary) in its devious course from near the St. Stephens Gate 
to the Church of the Holy Sepulchre is interesting, and mostly trav- 
eled. It contains all the fourteen stations of the cross well defined 
and marked. In the Hall of Judgement some excavations were made 
a few years ago and the original pavement of the Hall was found 
many feet below the street level of today and the pavement still 
has the mark made by the Roman soldiers of the various games they 
played, one of which resembles backgammon. The devious course 
taken by Jesus marking the Via Dolorosa ends at the church of the 
Holy Sepulchre, which is about the most interesting thing in Jerusa- 
lem because, this building or rather collection of buildings, is over 
the spot on which Christ is supposed to have been crucified arid bur- 
ied. It is in fact a cluster of churches, chapels and shrines, built 



128 

separately at different periods, but now! all covered by one roof. Un- 
der Constantine the site of the Crucifixion of the Saviour was dili- 
gently sought for, and it is said that on the spot which was then 
fixed upon as the scene of the chief events of those days, a memor- 
ial church of Byzantine splendor by his mother St. Helena. 

This church had a rotunda, the plan of whose foundations can 
still be traced. The space on the east was enclosed by colonades, 
still further east of which was a basilica, With courts on each side, 
three portals, a forecourt, and propylaeum, fragments of the columns 
of which last exist to this day. Since that time, Helena's splen- 
did and pious work has been desecrated and destroyed, rebuilt, dam- 
aged, restored, and added to, over and over again; but still the edi- 
fice preserves the "odor of sanctity, and is prevaded by an air of 
great antiquity. In A. D. 1099 the Crusaders entered the Church of 
the Holy Sepulchre, barefooted and singing songs of praise and thank- 
fulness. They rebuilt it on a large scale, enclosing in it all the 
adjacent shrines and chapels. Their work still stands, and is still rea- 
dily recognizable, notwithstanding the numerous subsequent addi- 
tions and repairs. The Greek Church has the largest posessions in 
this most ancient of Cathed r als within which each branch of the 
Christian faith has its own particular church, chapel, or shrine, 
where lamps are always burning resplendently. A touching devo- 
tion of religious faith may be observed in the humble niche posess- 
ed by the few but faithful Egyptians representing the Coptic Church, 
who through all temptation and peril, refused to abandon Christian- 
ity for the new and easier faith of the dashing Saracen. 

The Church of the Holy Sepulchre should be visited in the sun- 
niest hours of the day, as much of the interior is dark and most of 
it magnificient. Every shrine the r ein and almost every stone, has 
been bathed with countless tears, and had received the passionate 
kisses of hundreds of thousands of wayworn pilgrims; and whether 
or not it is the exact spot it is believed to be, it is certain at least, 
that it commemorates momentous events which must have taken 
place thereabouts, and that we are in a church which has been for 
long ages, and still is, sacred to a religious faith and hallowed by de- 
votion and sacrifice. 

In about 1050 A. D., some wealthy men of Amalfi, of Italy, which 
was then a great commercial port, paid for a piece of ground near 
the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, and built a house of refuge for 
pilgrims, and dedicated it to St. John the Baptist; which laterally be- 
came the cradle of the Knightly order of St. John of Jerusalem, 
which grew to be an extensive organization; that fought to the last, 
in the unsuccessful defense of St. John d ' Acre, that ended the 
reign of the Crusaders in Palestine; thence sailed for Rhodes where 
they built massive fortifications that are the admiration of all Eu- 
rope, but which eventually fell to the Turks; and after they finally 
removed to Malta, where their fortifications, palaces and cathedrals 
still stand as monuments of magnificence, and love of art. 

The religious bodies that have posession of the Church are all 
Christian, the principal ones being the Greeks, Armenians, and the 
Latins, and are continually at war with each other. The work of each 
is very specifically defined in the Church, for instance the stone on 
which Christ's body was supposed to have been washed after his re- 




VanWagenen 



The Mosque of Omar 




In the Garden of Gethsemane Under the Betrayal Tree 



12') 

moval from the Cross, is in posession of two of them, the Greeks and 
the Latins, and each and every Monday when they have washing day, 
i he Moslem soldiers must be on hand to see that one does not go the 
hairbreadth over the others domain or they will begin fighting to 
the death, and it is that way in all parts of the Church, there as well 
as at Bethleham; the various sections of the churches which are 
placed under the especial ca r e ofeach of these bodies are minutely 
measured and portioned off, with the view of minimising causes of 
quarrel; yel more than once the question as to which party should 
regulate the opening and shutting of a door, has well nigh plunged 
all Europe into war. Indeed it is stated on good authority, that the 
Crimean War really originated, in some such miserable squabble, a- 
tnong the Christian guardians of the birthplace of Christianity. This 
jealous petty rivalry is still strong as ever within these sacred pre- 
cincts; outward peace being with dificulty maintained by Turkish sol 
diers of which there are many present all the time day and night in 
both the edifices at Jerusalem and Bethlehem, and at Christmas and 
Raster, it takes a whole regiment of the soldiers to keep peace and 
at that many fights occur. It wasonly a couple of years ago that one 
branch that had part charge of the Manger set fire to it and badly 
burned the hangings around the place where Jesus was born, before 
peace could be brought about by the soldiers who have whips along 
with their yuns and which they have to use often. They a r e jostling 
scouling, and haranguing, each other incessantly, and it certainly 
does seem strange that it has to be the Moslem soldiers, that keep 
the peace- between the Christians, and keep them from killing each 
other. The way the floors are marked with lines of carpet, on the 
one side of which the others dare not step, or vice versa, though we 
walked anywhere without anything being said or any trouble being 
made. 

A visit to Bethlehem which is about an hours drive from Jerusa- 
lem is of interest and along the road to that place you pass Rachel's 
tomb and David's Well and some other historic points of minor men- 
tion. The Church of the Nativity was buiU over the Manger in 
which Christ was born, and has passed through several sieges in 
which Bethlehem itself was destroyed, but survived the many vicisi- 
ludes. It is such a solid fortress like edifice of interesting architec- 
lure and covers besides the many Churches and Chapels and Shrines, 
three monasteries, and is regarded as the oldest piece of Christian 
architecture extant and its escape from destruction is regarded as 
miraculous in the older days. The town has been destroyed and re- 
built many times, but is now a prosperous place of fifteen thousand 
inhabitants all Christians and a r e distinguished from the surround- 
ing peoples by their energy and intelligence and particularly by the 
grace and beauty of the women. It is believed that these people are 
descended from the Crusaders with an admixture of Syrian and per- 
haps Saracen blood. The chief industries of the place are embroider- 
ing and the carving of mother pearl which are here carried on to a 
high pitch oi' perfection. 

The roads are very rough and the carnages have to be built 
very heavy to withstand them, and you wonder at the endurance of 
the horses which are not very large sized, but seem to be sturdy and 



130 

strong. 

The Garden of Gethsmane is now a beautiful little flower gard- 
en much smaller than when first occupied by Christ on that memor- 
ial evening. It is walled in and planted full of flower beds and is 
kept in order by several Franciscian monks. A very large and old 
olive ?.ree stands in the one corner and is said to be the original tree, 
in its roots that Christ stood under when betrayed by Judas. This is 
probably tiue, as the olive tree has the faculty when a part or all of 
ds top dies, a new shoot starts out from the same roots and grows 
and in tb.is way continually reproducing itself, and in many places 
trees are shown that are said to be two thousand or more years old. 
The root base of this one is nearly ten feet across, though the tree 
is not much more than thirty feet high. The monks will let you pick 
flowers or take the fallen leaves but do not allow you to pick the 
branches or leaves from the tree itsself. Hosanna Way leading to 
the garden from Mount of Olives is extremely rocky as a road, and 
if that way in the olden times must have been hard traveling in san- 
dals or bare feet. On our return from Bethlehem we had a very 
pleasant reception tendered us by Mrs. Herbert Clark, wife of the A- 
merican Vice Consul and were served tea, delicious cakes and Turk- 
ish delight, that delicious confectio n made of sugar and gum arabic etc 
that is the delight of nearly every tourist to eat in those oriental 
countries. 

Mr. Herbert Clark, is a brother of Mr. Frank Clark, who got up 
and managed our tour so successfully, he often takes out and manages 
the Mediterranean tours for his brother; his extensive acquaintance 
in those countries, makes it easy for tourists to get around the many 
difficulties thrown in the way ofevery traveler. Mr. Herbert Clark's 
house is a veritable museum of autiquities; relics of all ages, and of 
all sorts spoken of in the Bible, being found there. 

There is quite an establishment in Jerusalem, called the American 
colony composed of about one hundred Americans who have settled 
in Jerusalem working under the cooperative plan, and they have a 
very fine store run under the name of Fr. Vesper & Co., i'or the ben- 
efit of the whole colony, where all sorts of souvenirs can be purchas- 
ed, as well as American made pastry and bread. The name of our 
guide was William Cattan, a veryfine young Moslem, who spoke very 
good En!g;lish, and was very well posted on Jerusalem and the sur- 
rounding country and, deserves great credit for taking us around so 
quickly and so thoroughly. 

We after a good nights sleep, alii being tired, arose early on the morn- 
ing of the 11th and took the train at 7.30 for the return trip to Jaffa 
to take our steamer for the continuance of the journey northward. 

The Palestine and Turkey side trip party were composed of the 
following named persons: — Dr. and Mrs. S. G. A. Brown of Shippens 
burg, Pa., Mrs. William E. Pearl, Miss Elsie Pearl, Mrs. J. F. Katz 
and Mrs. Isabel R. Kimball, all of New York, Mrs. Iona Bickerton, of 
Portland, Oregon, Dr. G A. VanWagenan, of Newark, N. J., and my- 
self. We were accompanied by Mr. B. J. Mosalli as director. 



131 



CHAPTER XX. 
FROM JAFFA to CONSTANTINOPLE. 

We arrived in Ja?fa near noon and departed on the S. S. Niger 
one of the French Line in those seas, all I can say to intending trav- 
elers is to keep away f;rom the French line, in the Mediterranean at 
least. There was only one redeeming feature, the meals were fairly 
good and plenty of it, but sleeping accommodations and cleanliness of 
ship and many other minor things were very poor. The Austrian 
Lloyd Lines are far superior. Remarking here before I forget it, 
the Niger was sunk in the Dardanelles two days after we left her 
at Constantinople, in a collision, (peace to her bones). 

We sailed from Jaffa at noon after taking on a large cargo of 
oranges. We reached Caifa the next stop, sixty miles north, about 
5 o'clock in the evening. It seems to be a prosperous village with a 
fair commerce from the surrounding country, I went on shore in the 
evening and saw the usual moving picture and a vaudeville and toot 
my first smoke from a genuine Turkish pipe and tobacco which is 
rather strong, and you have to learn to smoke the pipe, not like we 
do here, but by taking long steady draws, the smoke is cooled passing 
through the water, so that its strength is not felt so much as if you 

it direct from the tobacco. 

The next morning we arose early and drove to Mt. Carmel, vis- 

the Prophet Elijah's cave over which there is a fine church built 

now. The spot is a beautiful one on a promotory overlooking the 

d has a fine view. After coming down from the mount 1 

in the village and we finally went on board the ship and sailed 

for Beyrouth our next stop at ten A. M. on the 12th which port We 

reached at six in the evening, but remained on the ship that night 

and went ashore early the next morning. 

Eeyrout or Beirut as it is spelled in that country is a fine pros- 
s and rather progressive city of about, I should judge, sixty 
thousand inhabitants. The large American College there, with its 
several hundred students from all over Asia Minor, and its up to 
date methods and teachings, have done much to modernize this city 
which is a very interesting one, We visited the College and were 
met by Dr. Bliss, the acting President a very fine American gentle- 
man, who conducted us all over the institution that is really a Uni- 
versity as it gives degrees in medicine,' law, art, chemistry, and many 
other lines of College work, and is doing a world of good in that 
country. It has a fine museum, a large hospital and a good library 



132 

connected, but is somewhat hampered for funds for extension. 

There is also an extensive printing plant connected with the 
institution, to print the bibles and pamphlets in the native languai#J» 
editors of the papers in Asia Minor are graduates of thiis institution, 
and also many of the text books needed, and nearly all the Syrian 
Though the Syrians like the American missionaries, they were bitterly 
opposed by the former Sultan of Turkey, but since 1 he has been de- 
posed great progress has been made The collejge was founded by Dr. 
Jessup and his brother many years ago as a little school, and has 
grown to the large proportions of the present, with fifteen buildings 
and over a thousand students both male and female. 

In regard to the school and the opposition of the old Sultan, many 
funny things occurred, a few that I heard I will relate. The Sultan 
was much opposed to the printingprosses and strictly censored ev- 
erything printed, one occasion one of the dental books spoke of 
crowning a tooth, and as he could not have the idea of anything be- 
ing crowned but himself he ordered all the books destroyed, and 
they had to be. Another time he objected to the printing of the old 
testament, and the teaching of part o.f it as it mentioned the kill- 
ing of too many kings, in one place Again they thoug lit they 
would put telephones around the College grounds, but the, Sultan 
heard of it, and afraid again something would be said against him he 
would not hear, he sent word to President Roosevelt and had him 
order them out, which was reluctantly done, though now they have 
them. 

Beirut has a fine new breakwater and a good harbor, with all 
the modern facilities for handling freight and passengers. There is 
a railroad leading from here to Damascus, that interesting city 
that is still ancient and is thought to be the oldest city in the world 
being founded by one of the sons of Noah; I would like very much 
to have time to visit it. I enjoyedgreatly rambling around the numer 
ous bazaars that were there, and found that prices were fairly rea- 
sonable, though there as elsewhere some of the merchants, espec- 
ially those that dealt with foreigners were very persistent in asking 
you to purchase. One thing I noticed practically everywhere was 
tha, fact that generally, the most persistent ones were those who 
would reduce the price the lowest, to make sales. The greatest in- 
terest to me in Beirut was the famous Forests of Lebanon, that were 
located close to the city, and I especially wished to obtain a piece 
of the Cedar of Lebanon, of which King Solomon's temple at Jerusalem 
was built, as a souvenir to bring home for my Masonic Lodge. I had 
tried to find it at Jerusalem but it was not there, and I tried all o- 
ver Beirut and nearly gave up in despair, as the small forests that 
are left are very carefully guarded by the Turks and none of the 
wood allowed to be taken from there there being severe penalties at- 
tached for so doingj. I found many varieties of cedar but none of it 
looked right to me. While at the College I asked Dr. Bliss if he had 
any of the real Cedar of Lebanon in his museum, and he said he had, 
that the government had given hima small part of the trunk of a tree 
a few years before, for that purpose, i immediately went to see it, 
and one who has ever seen the real wood could never be mistaken 
in it. Thus armed with certain knowledge I made a final canvas, 



133 

and at last going into a curio store, I asked the proprietor if he did 
not have a small piece of the real Cedar of Lebanon in his store, I 
said he must have, that I wished a small piece, and that I would 
take it out of the country and takegood care not to get caught with it 
Finally after looking at me hard for a minute, he went to a small 
closet in the back part of his place of business, and from a dark cor- 
ner brought forth a small piece of a branch of a tree about six inch- 
es in diameter, that I immediately recognized as the same as I had 
s een in the museum, and purchasing a piece at a pretty stiff price I 
departed for the ship delighted with my success, I afterwards had 
the wood made up into gavel blocks and presented my Masonic lodges 
with them. 

We took a drive around the country which is a very pretty one, 
and also had the great pleasure of being, lunched and entertained in 
the private home of a well to do Armenian in that city, and thusi got 
the insight into the home life of the better classes of that country. 
The house was beautifully and tastefully furnished, and the daugh- 
ters were all accomplished and at the same time industrious, every- 
one doing some sort of embroidering, sewing or painting. The liv- 
ing rooms of the houses in these countries are nearly always on the 
second floor above the street, not as with us on the first floor. 

We sailed at noon on Saturday the lith for a long run of 5-2 miles 
to Smyrna, broken only by a short but intesesting stop for a couple 
of hours at Yathey on the Island of Samos. The little town had qui. 
a large garrison of Turkish soldiers, the island now belonging to 
Turkey, but the population mostly Greek to which country it had be- 
longed for several hundred years, but having a valuable landlocked 
harbor and a very beautiful country, and so close to the entrance 
to the Dardenelles; Turkey cast covetous eyes and in one of the wars 
look the island as one of the fruits of the war. The town is built on 
a semicircular hill, is thickly populated and does quite an extensive 
commerce in wines, figs, oils, etc. The wines from this isle are quite 
famous and are certainly delicious. 

We reached Smyrna at six p. m., on Tuesday the 17th and land- 
ing in that harbor took a drive up onto the hills and saw some very 
interesting forts, or ruins of them rather, of the early Roman days. 

i-na is a lar^e commercial port and the harbor besides the many 
eommercial steamers, had quite a large number of war vessels of 
many nations stationed there at that time; as there was then the 
trouble between Turkey and Greece over the Island of Crete and war 
was expected to break out at any time. Smyrna was the nearest port 
of any size. Here as at Cairo the money changers took any money 
offered them and exchanged it at a very reasonable rate. The ba- 
zaars were also very novel, the streets being covered mostly for 
squares where the shops were and you could see all sorts of shops and 
small manufactories of a great variety, that were exceedingly inter- 
esting, a description of all of them would make a small book. The 
city streets are small and narrow and have many abrupt turns and 
i he buildings not nearly as good as Beirut, with the exceptions of a 
i>\v new factories and warehouse, A large garrison of Turkish sol- 
diers is kept here at all times, and they are a well drilled and formid- 
able looking lot of men. They dress like our soldiers in khaki with 



13'i 

the exception tney wear the red fez's, instead of caps. 

We sailed from Smyrna about 5 o'clock for a 270 mile run to Con- 
stantinople passing into the Dardenelles, at about half that distance, 
early in the morning and landing at Constantinople at five in the af- 
ternoon. The boat had a great many steerage passengers on board, 
who lived and slept on deck forward, and a motley looking lot they 
were; but one of them had two baby bears that were very interest- 
ing when motionless you would think they were the genuine toy Ted- 
dy bear of the States, so perfect in looks were they, but they were 
comical little rascals standing up and boxing each other like two 
prize fighters would do, and doing many other funny little things tl. --t 
provided great amusement. I fed them some Turkish delight and 
pushed it into their mouths, and their antics were exceedingly gro- 
tesque attempting to chew the sticky stuff, and trying to dig it out of 
their mouths with their paws, and yet wanting to keep it, liking the 
sweetness of that toothsome morsel. 

We were quite a little time getting through the custom house, 
some backsheesh had to be paid under the name of vising the 

passport that is required, and in oter ways, but we finally were per- 
mitted to take our cabs, and went quickly to the fine Pera Palace Ho- 
tel, one of the International Sleeping Car Company hotels in Europe. 
It is located on the hill on the upper side of the Golden Horn, be- 
ing in the new part of Constantinople, the old part being called 
Stamboul. The hotel is modern, up to date in every respect and is 
located only a short distance from most of the new parts of the city, 
and but a short ride by carriage from the old part. After dinner 
we went to a vaudeville given bya troupe in French and they cer- 
tain ly made a great many hits at the government, on the taxes prin- 
cipally, as far as I could understand something they could not dare 
do a couple ofi years ago under the reign of the old Sultan. The free- 
dom the Turks seem to take and ha^e over the old times was wonder- 
ful, and new li^e and thought could be seen everywhere. In regard 
to taxes, everything was taxed, the theatre programes had to have 
a stamp on them, you posted any s ort of an advertising notice in your 
shop window, you have to have a tax stamp on it and so on. 

The money we had been using since we left Cairo was the worst 
we had tackled yet. The Turkish money was the piastre, nominally 
five cents, but of which name very little use was made, the piastre 
being divided up into what is called metaHiques, the general name 
for the copper coinage, running from four to five to a piastre, what- 
ever you cou'-'d get. Twenty piastres made a medjidie nominally sup- 
posed to be about a dollar, but in Jerusalem it took 26 piastres for 
a Medjidie, at Beirut 23, at Smyrna 22, and at Constantinople 20, and 
this often fluctuated. The metalliques were ail sorts of, thin cop- 
per stampings, they were hardly worth the name of coins, with holes 
in them, badly mashed, dinged, and beaten, but they got the goods. 
There were also larig|er bronze metal pieces of different sizes, there 
being ten varieties, copper and bronze, and had nothing but Turkish 
markings on, some were the same size as others, but worth twice as 
much, being a slightly different kind of bronze was all, it certainly 
was confusing. Each piece had a different name to make it worse, 
not going by the numeral at all. The getting of change was a ter- 



135 

ror, you never got the full' amount back that was due you as you 
thought, and no amount of arguing would get it for you, it must be 
the universal custom for if you gave a party a five piastre piece 
he would only give you four and a half piastres or less hack for it. 
If you started out with twenty dollars and changed it much, by the 
end of the day you had lost abouttwenty to twenty-i'ive percent by 
so doing. A short recitation of the coinage may be interesting to 
others as it is so different from any other country. They were two 
5 para copper pieces different sizes, two ten para, also different sizes, 
one twenty para, one % beschlik and Yi altil'k, both the same value 
(1 Vi piastres) one being copper and one copper bronze, as all the 
others were but the latter named had a little silver mixed 
with the copper. Then there was the beschlik and half altilik both 
worth 1 l A piastres, and the altilik (5Pia.), which was the last of 
the copper bronze pieces. The sil'ver ones were as follows: Jirmipa- 
ralik (% Pia.), Kirkparalik (1 Pia.),EkJlik (2 Pia.), Beschlik again (5 
Pia. , Onlik (10 Pia.), and MedJidie (20 Pia.}, a : lV of silver. Then there 
was the Turkish pound (lOOPiastres) worth about $4.40 of gold, call- 
ed the lira, and the following other pieces in gold, but these were 
not often seen in Turkey in general circulation as gold is scarce 
there. The coins were 25 Pia, 50 Pia, 100 Pia, 250 Pia, and 500 Pias- 
tres respectively. 

Most of the streets are crooked and narrow, and many in the old 
pari of the city very dirty. Some places the bazaars occupy the en- 
lire street, and you can hardly get through, for a couple of blocks 
at a time. There are many Mosques of interest, also the tombs of 
the rulers under various names, which Turkey has had for centur- 
ies, one of which that we visited had a beautifully engrossed copy 
ofl the Koran, and which I very reverently kissed, remembering my 
Shriner affiliations. Another thing that interested me, in former 
times the dog was considered somewhat sacred to an extent and was 
therefore allowed to run the streets unharmed until their numbers run 
into the many thousands, and their howling at night made thingp hide- 
ous as we soon found out; but under the new government which is 
trying to rapidly modernize things, they concluded it was a good pol- 
icy to get rid of the dogs and it was a sight every night while I was 
there to see the men come around, armed with large iron tongs and 
followed by iron garbage wagons, and grab the dogs rig.ht and left 
and throw them into the wagons, which when full were rapidly haul- 
ed ahvay. I saw over sixty taken one night right round the hotel. 
ft was said that they were taken to an inland in the Bosphorus and 
i' ft there, where I understood afterwards most of them starved to 
death as the government did not like to kill them on account of the 
*emi-religious views of the populace about them. A rough estimate 
>.-[ I he number oC the dogs running loose on Pera and Galatea hills a- 
alon" (the new quarter) wa s in theneigaborhood o\" fifty thousand. 

Among other interesting things, were the howling and dancing- de- 
rvishes. The first lot there would be aboat fifty men meet in one 
of their small chapels built for that, purpose, and sitting around on 
all siu.-s of the room on the floor, would start and sing prayers in a 
verj loud fashion for hours at a time until exhausted. It was rath- 
er monotonous. The dancing or whirling dervishes had a very fine 



136 

polished floor in a nice building with seats railed off all around for 
she spectators; they would begin with their arms above their heads 
being dressed in long skirts) andwhirl around and around until they 
fell to the floor exhausted. It is a delightful ride to take one of 
the small) lines of boats and go up the Bosphorus to the Black Sea, 
and back, a distance of about 18 miles each way. It is lined all the 
way up with little villages, old castles, and summer mansions, and 
with the wooded hills and gardens for back grounds made it a very 
pretty picture. 

On Friday the Sultan goes in State to the mosque to pray, and 
we obtaining a good position, watched the interesting procession 

pas s , The troops, officers, members oi the cabinet, his harem (of i 
women and .lastly he himself in an open carriage drove by. He has 
a rather good face and is not so old but his hair is white and he 
shows a little, the confinement of thirty years that his brother the 
Weposed Sultan had imposed on him. 

'The measuring of time in Turkey strikes you very queerly, ask 
somebody the time you would be told say one o'clock, and the next 
person a few minutes after wouM tell you it was f i v e o'clock, which 
would sort of twist you up a little. For centuries the method of 
reckoning time in Turkey has been based on the assumption that 
the day ends and the new day begins at sunset, which is called 12 
o'clock. Following the lead of the people, who seldom had watches 
or clocks and judged the time by the position of the sun, the civil 
and religious administrations used the same system, and clocks and 
watches made to keep regular mean titae had to be changed almost 
daily to adljust them to the sun. 

Now however, the accurate and scientific reckoning of time as a- 
dopted by modern countries is coming into use in the Turkish empire, 
although the government has decided not as yet impose the change 
by law. As a result, combination timepieces, which show both the 
time by the sun and the standard time, are in demand. There are 
three types of timepieces for this purpose. One had two dials, one 
on each side: the second has two small dials side by side on the 
same face, and the third has a central fixed dial for regular time, 
and around it a movable dial for Turkish time. 

The standard time will be introduced gradually, and the period 
of transition willprobably extend over several years, during which 
time both systems will be in use The building of railroads, which 
must have accurate and uniform time, will extend the new system, 
various administrations have already adopted it, and many of the 
schools are preparing 3or the change. 

One evening I visited a Masonic Lodge held under an Eng'ish 
charter. It was held on the top floor of the English sailors home 
in a very nice room. This particular lodge meeting was called as a 
Lodge of Sorrow on the death of: their former Grand Master King- 
Edward, and for that reason was well attended by a'l nationalities. 
The work is a little different in details, but the essentials are the 
same. The most interesting thing to me were different speeches or 
eulogies pronounced by the various ones present, there being six diff- 
erent languages spoken, namely: Greek, English, Turkish, German, 



137 

French, and Italian. The speech in Greek was to me the most inter- 
esting, though I couldn't understan it, but the smoothness and harmo- 
nious sounds etc., alt impressed me greatly as to the language, it 
may be possible that the speaker was a most accomplished man 
which would make it sound more so. A nice little banquet and so- 
cial time was held afterwards. The harbor was a busy one, and the 
wharves seemed to be l'ined all the time with steamers ioading and un 
loading!, showing that there was evidently a large commerce at this 
port. 

We visited one large rug and curio store, they were the same pec 
pie that had the big display at the Chicago Exposition, and they cer- 
tainly had a fine lot of things, but also a fine .hot of prices, none of 
our party invested much. In one part ol the building; they were mak 
ing silk rugs, the little girls were working tying on the silk threads 
and cutting them, they had about a f>oot and a half finished on a rug 
about seven feet wide and the man said they had been a month and 
a half at that , doing about a foot a month. It was very interesting 
to watch the girls working as they were very skii'lful and worked 
rapidly. 

We left Constantinople at 10 30 A. M., Saturday the 21st ol May 
on the Austrain Lloyd steamer Palacky for Pirea, the port for 
Athens in Greece. The boat was a very fine one and we enjoyed the 
beautiful trip of 350 miles through the Grecian archipelago very much 
arriving at Pirea at three P. M. on the 22nd. We took carriages and 
had a very pleasant drive of five miles to Athens where we arrived 
at 4.30 and stopped at the fine Hotel de La Grand Bretange. 



138 



CHAPTER XXI. 
ATHENS TO NAPLES. 

In driving to the Hotel in Athens I had heard music and as soon 
as the rooms were fixed, I started out and found that it happened 
to be a day of celebration of some kind, and the Park about a half a 
mile from the Hotel was in gala attire and a gala crowd. A fine mil- 
itary band was playing and all Athens seemed to be present. The 
music was very good and the crowd interesting and from there I walk- 
ed over some of the town delving into the old ruins that you find 
everywhere but more principally around the base of the Acropolis. 
It is too bad that more money cannot be found for excavation pur- 
poses, as even a superficial survey shows you that there must be plen 
ty of ruins which would be of great value to history to have excavat- 
ed and restored. Restoration work is going on at several places and 
in time Athens may be made to look as of old when Greece was the 
leader of the world in thought and art. I walked around until 
dark and went back to the hotel for dinner which I iound very good 
and well served. But oi the finish, when I wanted a cigar, the cheap- 
est that could be found was forty cents and from that up to two dol- 
lars and at the lowest price was not equal to our gpod Pennsylva- 
nia five cent ones. 

The tariff and tax on tobacco is enormous, which makes the cost 
of good tobacco very high, they grow some sort of a weed in Greece 
that goes under the name oi tobacco and that is all. Cigarettes can 
be gotten much cheaper and are fair, so you see most everybody 
men and women smoking cigarettes One of the finest parks in Athens 
is in front of the hotel, and that also had a band concert, and a 
large crowd that night. The streets are clean and in some parts wide, 
others narrow but carriages g'o through everypi'ace. They have some 
very line stores and bazaars there that are interesting. A few peo- 
ple can be found that speak English, so that you can make your way 
around without too much trouble. Oi course by this time we all be- 
came adepts at the sign language, which g ^es most everyplace and 
is a good thing to become proficient in. The money of Greece is 
rather easy for the foreigner, being of the same rate as the franc 
of France or the lira of Italy namely, about twenty cents; and the 
French and EngUsh money is generally taken in Greece, in the lar- 
ger cities. The name of the unit of money is the drachme equal to 
about nineteen and one quarter cents, except in large amounts; that 
is divided up into one hundred parts called lepta, and the coinage 
ran 5 and 10 Iteptas copper; 5, 10, and 20 leptas in nickel; and 20, 50, 



139 

leptas and 1, 2, and 5 drachmes in silver and ten and twenty dra- 
chmas in gold. There was a scarcity of gold, and plenty ofi the pa- 
per money which ran in all denominations from 1 drachme up, al^- 
though in the small denominations, like our shinplasters of tne civil 
war, in size. 

Prices on many things were somewhat high, as the country is 
heavily in debt and well taxed, but the people seem to be 1 airly en- 
ergetic and many of the youngjer hotheads anxious for war with Tur- 
key ajain, and they often asked outside opinion as to their chances. 
I very quickly told one fellow that unless they could make one 
strike, and that an extremely hard one, and a surprise at that, that 
they would stand no more chance with the present Turkey than the 
proverbial snowball would in that warmer climate tile preacners 
talk about being the ffuture home of so many. Germany is with Tur- 
key first last and all the time and so even if they did happen to 
make some strike of some account, the fruits of victory would be tak- 
en away from them, so that it would be the utmost folly to think 
of it. 

The native costumes are not to be seen much in the towns, but 
only among the old people and some of the younger people in the 
country so that picturesque costumes will soon be a thing of the 
past, though a few of the regiments of the Greek army still wear 
the short skirt ol the familiar pictures of the Greek peasant. 

There are a great many interesting things at Athens for the del- 
vers into ancient history, in the various famous old ruins, some 
of which are being restored to make them as of old, as fast as 
money can be gotten to del ray the expense. The Acropolis is the 
main point of interest, portions of which are being restored at 
the present time. Standing there as it does on the hill and can be 
seen for miles around the work it did and beheld in carrying out 
the glories oi this one time famous country impresses one greatly and 
you study it with a lot of interest. Detailed descriptions are super- 
fluous and would take up lots of space and can be much better 
read in other works by Archaeologists, suffice it to name some of 
the many prominent ones seen. The Olympieion, Panthenon, Thea- 
tre of Bacchus, Odeon of Herod Atticus, Temple of Thesus, The 
Propylees, Prison of Socrates. Tribune of Pnyx, Porte de 1' Agora, 
Tower of the Winds, The Oil Market, The Baths, The Temple of A- 
drien, Temple of Mercury, Arch of Adrien, and the uncovered por- 
tions of the cemetery, on which work in excavation was still going 
on when we were there, and which contains many interesting mon- 
uments and graves. The relics that are unearthed are taken to the 
fine museum in Athens, that is well worth a couple of days time, 
instead of a couple of hours, that was all we had to go through it. 
Of course the famous Stadium hasbeen rebuilt entire through the 
generosity of a patriotic Greek whose statue has been erected in 
front of the entrance. In the Stadium the old portions can still be 
told by the time stained color of the marble. It was built a few 
years ago in time ibr the revivaj of the famous Olympian Games 
that first took place there and then and is a beautiful structure 
all of marble, and is said to have cost nearly a million dollars to 
rebuild. 

Early on the morning of the 24th, the three men in the party 



140 

took a carriage and drove about fifteen miles to the old town of 
Eieuysis where there were some magnilicant old ruins, the princi- 
pal ones being the Temple of Cres, and the Hall of Mysteries, the 
latter being the birth place of Masonry in Greece. On the road we 
stopped at the ruins which has been partially restored of an old mon- 
astery which has some beautiful mosaic pictures depicting the life 
of Christ, adorning the walls and ceilings. The country seems to 
be rather barren not being farmed exept near Athens, and there seems 
to be lots of arable land that could be utilized. In getting to Eleuysis 
we skirted the shore ol the bay of Salamis in which Xerxes saw his 
fine fleet defeats] and sunk in the fiamous battle in the Bay of 
Salamis. About noon we joined the rest ol the party on the train 
to Patras a seaport on the we s tern shore of Greece from which we 
were to take the boat to continue our Journey. It was about 130 
miles by train from Athens to Patras and gave us a fine chance to 
see the country which in part was well cultivated, and in others left 
alone. 

The railroad for a short- while ran along the new ship canal 
which connects the Bay ol Salamis with the Gulf of Corinth, the ca- 
nal being cut through only a few miles of country and saves several 
hundred to go around by water. There is one large deep rock 
out ol some length and the canal will take boats of about three thou 
sand tonnage. The railroad crosses the canal at the deepest cut 
and then runs along the Gulf of Corinth to Patras where we land- 
ed about six o'clock in the evening, and had a fine supper at the hotel 
which was also where we got our first taste of a drink called Mastic, 
that was taken diluted with water, and had a mijky appearance when 
so done, but a most delicious taste and great rejuvenating effects. 
The taste was something between sweet -myrrh and aniseed. We took 
the S. S. Euterpe about ten o'clock in the evening and sailed from the 
port at twelve for Corfu on the Island of the same name now be- 
longing to Greece, lately ceded to them by Great Britain. Patras is 
also a pretty large commercial port, principally wines, figs, olive 
oils, and raisins being exported. The distance from Patras to Corfu 
is about 125 miles and we came into the harbor about noon the next 
day and landed for a drive around this beautiful Isl'and and city. The 
most interesting parts being the fine old fortress and the Castle both 
in use and in fine state of preservation. The fortress in ancient 
days would have undoubtedly been impregnable with any sort of a 
defense. 

At 3 o'clock 'we sailed for Brindisi in Italy a distance of 120 miles 
and landed at that port at two o'clock in the morning and a sleepy 
tired lot we were, when the time came to take the train for Naples 
at seven. I wandered around thetown interested in the markets, and 
the walls, of what was at one time a strong walled town of some con- 
sequence, and is now somewhat of an important port, being the land 
ing place for the Oriental mails for their quick trip across Europe. 
The custom officers gave us a little trouble but finding we were A- 
merican tourists Pet us go quickly. About six o'clock we got a side- 
walk restaurant open and the proprietor made us some coffee and 
chocolate, and boiled some eggs, but milk was scarce, he gave a 
shrill whistle and a man came around the corner with a f llock of goats 




The Stadium at Athens 




The Hall of Mercury on the Acropolis at Athens 



I'll 

and we soon had very fresh milk for our coliee. 

The train left at seven for a 240 mile run across Italy to Naples 
passing through some very interesting country and through some 
nice feats in railroading in the way of tunnels and bridges, and land- 
ed us at Naples at live o'clock in the evening, We stopped at the 
fine Hotel, Victoria, facing the boulevard, and were very comforta- 
bly housed. The city life at night on some of the main streets with 
the gay colors and lights made it a very pretty sight. Naples is built 
all over a hill, and a very steep one at that, there being very little 
level ground anyplace. The views from here were magnificient with 
Vesuvius in the distance, the smoke curl'ing up from its crater, and 
the signs of the last eruption in the black masses of- lava that was 
streaked down the mountain through the green groves and fields. 

There are many interesting drives and boat trips around Na- 
ples, that one should spend a couple of weeks there to thoroughly 
see the beauties ol that beautiful country, but in a short drive a- 
round the city itself, there is little of interest except a couple of 
cathedrals, and the National museum with the large collection of 
Pompeian re.'ics, that show the lifeof those times better than any- 
thing else could have done. One could well spend a whole day in 
that museum with these relics. 

The one great thing ot interest to me was Pompeii, and that cer- 
tainly would interest anybody, to really and actually see how they 
did live in those days of Christ as all other things were mainly sup- 
position and reading about, but here was the place just preserved 
as it was with everything stopped and covered for two thousand years 
x^ere has been a great deal excavated, and plenty more to be ex- 
cavated, and no doubt many new discoveries will be made. The fres 
coes are just as brilliant as the day they were painted, what would 
one give now for the receipts of those pigments. After you have 
once gone through the silent city," and through parts ofi the museum 
at Naples, with its collection of the Pompeian things, and seen all its 
wickedness you cease to wonder that it was struck dow r n in the hey- 
day of its glory, as the wickedness of what you see, let alone the 
multiplication of what is unknown, must have made the place one to 
be shunned and to cause God in hiswrath to bury it for ever as a liv- 
ing city. The railroad in going] there, it being about fifteen mil'es 
of rt ride to Pompeii, crosses through some beautiful and fruitful 
country; but the strange thing to me would be to see the streams of 
black lava from six to ten feet high and from five to fifty feet wide, 
lying through that pretty countrylike a huge black snake, brilliant 
vt gelation right up against in on both sides. The railroad had cut 
through it several places where the lava had crossed its tracks when 
it was flowing and blocked the road. 

At the depot as we were getting on the train, I was following 
a gentleman in the car, when suddenly his wife said to him "What 
is that man doing with his hands in your pocket" and at that a fel- 
low hurriedly brushed by me and went out of the car, he had on blue 
goggles and I had seen him distinctly; the police were sent for by 
the R. R. officials and I pointed the man out to them, he was sitting 
in another car, not being able to get away from the station without 
easy detection, and thus hoping to escape being identified where he 



142 l ] 

was. He was arrested but as to what became of him afterwards is 
not known, as the gentleman refused to go to the police courts to 
make a complaint though he was willing to and did make informa- 
tion to the officers. It would have delayed his journey possibly and 
been a source of trouble and for that reason he would not bother 
with it further. That is what the pickpockets and thieves count on 
over there in going mostly for foreigners, their knowledge of the fact 
the foreigners know little of the language and hate to have trouble, 
and will not lose the time to prosecute etc., which will leave them 
escape even though they are captured, makes them use the tourists 
as their prey most of the time. 

.The police of Naples seem to be in league with the criminal fac- 
tions the Mafia and the Camorra, finally some pretty prominent mur- 
ders occurred, and the government was petitioned to take it up, and 
the soldiers called the Carabineers, corresponding to our Penna 
State Gonstabulatory were ordered to get busy, they finally captured 
and imprisoned about one hundred and fifty, and with the witnesses 
and all took them to a large building many miles from Naples. The 
trials are now going on with the witnesses and informers protected 
by the police, also the oi'Aiciate of the court had to be guarded, and 
it looks as though the heart ol these famous organizations will be 
broken with the imprisioning and hanging of the ringleaders. .Those 
little carabineers are a fine body of soldiers. On the march they are 
known as the fastest walking soldtery in the would, it being said 
they can keep a gait of five miles an hour for several hours. They 
wear a flat brim, round topped hat w T ith a fine plume of bronze roos- 
ter tails they look like. The uniform is a dark green without much 
trimming, and they certainly look very well and business like on the 
march. At the Hotel in the eari'y morning it was sort of pleasant 
to hear those bands coming along playing a lively quickstep heading 
a regiment ol soldiers, or a battalion of marines or sailors from the 
warships, drilling, manuvering, or marching, arong this fine boulev- 
ard, and they were many of them every morning. The different uni- 
forms ol the various organizations also made it a pretty picture and 
an interesting one. 

I hope to come back to Naples in the future and spend more time 
to take the numerous interesting excursions that surround that city. 



143 



CHAPTER XXII. 
ROME TO VENICE. 

I bade goodby to the small party I had been traveling with from 
the time I left Cairo, and from this time went alone around Eu- 
rope. I wih 1 confine myseli to a small history of the trip, relating 
not so mucn of what there is to see, as to easy ways of getting a- 
long, and some things all persons who wish to tour Europe will be 
helps for them to know. I left Naples for Rome at ten o'clock in 
the morning, and went to the depot early, and was glad I did as the 
train was crowded. I had no ticket, as yet, and the ticket windows 
do not open until a few minutes be ore the time for the train to go. 
I noticed that many had their tickets and were going into the train 
getting all the best places etc., andit made me anxious to get in also, 
so I spoke to one of the hotel porters and asked him if tickets couM 
be gotten anyp'ace,he quickly said yes, named the price of a regu- 
lar second-class ticket to Rome, about 20 lira, which I gave him and 
he came back to me in a few minutes with it. I gave him a couple of 
cents as a tip and went on my way rejoicing, got my baggage after 
some hunting for it and finally got located very nicely. It was rain- 
ing pretty hard so that the run was not so pleasant as it might 
have been. I arrived in Rome about 2 o'clock and went to the Ho- 
tfel Marini, which was a very pleasant one near the heart of the city 
and at reasonable rates. 

The money of Italy is the Lira being worth about 19% cents and 
that is divided up into 100 centissimi, shortened to cents generally. 
There was the usual copper coinage of one, five and ten cent, A 
twenty cent nickel and fifty cent, and one, two, and five Lira sii'ver, 
with some gold coinage and papermoney for the large denominations. 
"Profiting by my experience in Naples getting tickets lor some time 
ahead, I went to Cook^s office in riome and purchased my tickets 
for some time ahead, which you can do very nicely, and what you 
do not use are relunded to you should you change your route. They 
can sell you a ticket from and to any point in Europe, by any man- 
ner of conveyance, and certainly are a godsend to travelers in that 
country who do not know the language The tickets are sheets oi pa- 
per printed, about three by four inches in size, and they put them 
together in books for you, and all you need to do is to show the 
tickets where you wish to go, and you will have depots, trains, etc., 
all pointed out to you. Another thing you have your tickets and can 
take the train as soon as it is ready, which is often an hour before- 



144 

iiand and it is necessary to be there early, as the best places in the 
compartment coaches are gotten by those who come i irst, the inside 
places are not so good as the corridors run along, the one side of 
the car and the seats all run across trie car, two facing each other, 
nearest the window are the best and the rest are further back and 
darker and not near so convenient, i.'h< se cars are nice when there 
happens to be oni'y two in a compartment for then you can stretch 
out full length and rest as comfortably as on a couch at home. 

The cars and tickets are first, second, and third class. The first 
and second class are not very different, except in the price; the sec- 
ond class costing about thirty percent ress than first which is about 
2^ cents a mile, and second about a cent and three quarters. These 
rates vary some in the different countries. First class cars are not 
much used and therefore if a person wishes to have lots ol room on 
a crowded train, it would be wise to take that part of the journey 
first class and pay the excess fare. You can quickley, if on the watch 
pick up customs and it is wise to look around for those little things 
that help considerably in knowing. For instance, I got in the train 
and put my piece of baggage which was a large collapsible hand grip, 
up in the rack over the seat next to the window, thinking; that would 
keep the seat alU right; I left the car to walk the platform, and fin- 
ally when I came back found people in both the seats. I by mo- 
tions pointed to the baggage, to myself and the seat, but they 
would not stir and when one got up left a papal lying on the seat, 
when I trying to take it the otherpointed to the paper and made me 
soon understand that that paper was custom, and reserved that seat 
and that nobody would take it. Isoon found that was a nice way to 
reserve seats in the coaches at big stations, where many peopl'e got 
on, throw a paper one place, a hat another, and say "resirvirt" and 
the peopie would move on to someplace else, and you often had plen- 
ty of room in that way for your journey. Some places to make sure 
I dropped my big heavy valise on the seat and that always held it. 
T f. you can possibly avoid it, don't take a trunk with you, travelling 
in Europe, it is a big nuisance and expense, and often is the cause 
of missing trains etc., You can take as many grips as you can carry 
and it will cost you nothing extra as there is a charge for checking; 
trunks by the pound, white you can take half a dozen grips with you 
into the car at no charge except for the porterage and that is oi'lten 
nothing more for two or three grips thai for one. 

By the way, speaking oi porterage thai is one of the most useful 
and helpful adjuncts of the European railway stations, some are 
dumb of course, but many oi them are bright hustling fellows who 
will take your baggage from the carriage, you tell the place you wish 
to go, and be sure and get it right, and the class you wish to travel, 
and they will get you a seat in a car and hold it lor you until you 
come, steadily defending it again others and the tip is merely nomi- 
nal for all that work generally tencents in our money makes them say 
thank you many times. They are strictly honest, but try and follow 
your baggage as they make mistakes. Speaking of naming the place 
you wish to go many places are not known by their English names, 
and >ou should at once g*et the namos of the places you wish to g;o 
in the way they pronounce them in their country; for instance, Na- 



145 

pies is Nap-o-li, I lorence is Fir-en-zi; Venice is Ven-ez-ia; pronoun 
eed as I have it and they wil|l mostly always understand you at once, 
also learn a few oi the very common words of a language of which 
try and get the correct pronounciation; a dozen or so with a few signs 
will carry you a good while without much trouble. As I said before 
if you have to use English, use the shortest and simplest words possi- 
ble, and pronounce them distinctly with appropriate signs where pos- 
sible, to do so, and you will be often understood. Don't use long sen- 
tences and long words but learn early the word for thank you, and 
use it very often, both before and after a request, it will' go a very 
long ways in getting the person addressed, to try and understand you. 
Rome is an extremely interesting city, and several weeks could be 
profitably spent there doing things at your own convenience, not be- 
ing rushed until you are so tired you cannot thoroughly appreciate 
it, unless you have the strength of an ox and a good absorbing, pow 
er oJ the brain. For me to tell you all of the interesting things of 
Rome when regular printed guides are whole books would be out of 
the question. The ruins of the Golisseum, the Forum, Castle St. An- 
^elo, and of course St. Peters, where I happened to strike the nine 
o'clock Mass on Sunday morning, and hear that beautiful music by 
the famous choir, and that organ, was well worth a short journey 
itsojf, the Pantheon, the various triumphial arches, and the many 
pretty views of the city from the dilterent hills on which Rome is 
built, are all well worth the time spent, as well as the many numer- 
ous ruins that have been unearthed and the many Cathedrals and 
Art Museums of great value for the numerous treasures they contain. 
Pensions or boarding houses can be gotten for reasonable figure 
where you can get lodging and light breakfast for a few dollars a 
week, ranging] lor those in moderate means as low as lour dollars up 
until any price you wish to pay; the hotels run from two dollars 
per day upwards with a g'ood many extras. The Cook's tickets are in 
many place;:; a good thing to have as they will save you considerable 
money if you use them judiciously, and you mostly receive fair treat- 
it, though there are a few places where you do not get the con- 
iration that you would if they thought you were free to be charg- 
any sum they wished to. But never forget, you have to tip to 
el with any degree of comfort to your body and mind, and you 
must he rather lavish with them but must learn this one lesson that 
a small Up of two to ten cents goes about as iar as a much larger 
and you often get more thanks than the one who gives a dollar 
a tip, as secretly the servant Is one as a fool who gives 

money away so lavishly and respects the one who knows how to dis- 
,ii use it with decency. The Americans have spoiled Europe and 
here seems to be no help for it in that line. 

The most important personage in the European Hotel is the por- 
ter with his gold lace and broad cloth, he is the one you must g:o 
to for all information, and practically for everything in the favor line, 
if you wish service out of him treat him civilly and you get lots of 
it, he can speak several languages generally, fluently, and he has to 
be generously tipped or expects it, of course limited to the service he 
gives you. There are maids and man servants on every floor of the 
hotel, and whether they do you any service or not, expect to be tip- 



146 

ped, varying from twenty cents a day to iifty cents lor the week and 
higher if you wish, depending on your sfcay and service. The man 
servants I rarely bothered and rarely tipped except the baggage por- 
ters and the waiters. The ones who have lots ol money and wish 
to blow it, oi course go wild in the tipping line, and they always find 
willing receptacles bobbing up fron everywhere whether they do any 
service or not. My advice has been to fill your pockets with the meas- 
ly coppers, that you should not learn to despise over there, and use 
tnem liberally and they will' take you much farther than the larger 
sums. 

I had a chance to have an audience with the Pope, which I am 
sorry now I did not make use of but had made all arrangements to 
travel on not thinking I could get to see hfm in so short a time and 
therefore missed it. Mr. Ziess who was with the tour, had letters 
from an American Bishop and on presenting them on Saturday night, 
received word he would be received with his friends on Monday morn- 
ing, and he asked me on Sunday evening to go along, but I had arrang- 
ed my travel, so declined though I sent some rosaries to be blessed for 
some ol my iriends in America, the v having already been blessed at 
the Church of the Holy Sepulchre in Jerusalem, the Church of the 
Nativity at Bethlehem and in the Garden of Gethsemane. 

I walked a great deal in Rome, I calculated in the two days to have 
been over twenty miles and saw much that was interesting that I 
wouti'd loJke to see again, as the life is varied and picturesque in all 
its details. The stores are numerous and prices lair. The streets 
are many ol them very narrow, some ol the principal business 
streets being so that a carriage could hardly get through, while at 
other parts large wide bouvelards traversed the city, their vistas 
always ending in some fine structure of some sort, that made it pleas- 
ing to the eye. They are just finishing that fine monument to Vic- 
tor Emanuel the Second which is certainly a beautiful piece ol arch- 
itecture. 

i left at nine o'clock on Monday the 30th for Florence arriving 
there at 2.30 alter a delightful ride across and through the Appenine 
mountains. We passed through fifty five tunnels on that ride one 
of them over a mile long. I stopped at the Hotel New York, as it 
was called, alongi the river which at one time was the palace ofi the 
famous Catherine de Medici, and 1 find several of the hotels there 
have been palaces ol famous people of those times. The Uifizi Art 
Gallery in Florence is the one of ones of all Europe that you should 
go to, the great numbers of all the fine masterpieces that it contains., 
both in painting and statuary, making it well worth a long stay that 
I did not give it. There are other galleries and museums of interest 

Florence is really the centre of the old art im Italy, and to day 
there is plenty ol it in the many stores with their fine display of 
sculpture and painting, and at what seemed to be very reasonable 
prices, many of them small museums with their stock of old second 
hand curios. A trip on loot around Florence is interesting to the one 
who likes to see life in aW its phases. I went through one quarter 
of the city alter nightfall, and whe ; Jhad returned and was in a 
drug store talking to the proprietor, happening to tell' him where all 
I had been, he was greatly surprised that I came back alive and un- 



147 

harmed, as he said there were many murders of foreigners commit- 
ted in that quarter, but I think one can go most any place if you mind 
your own business, and make no display of money or jewelry to ex- 
cite the cupidity ol the robber. 

There are plenty of curio stores and some very fine old cameos 
can be purchased second hand, but dont under any circumstances pay 
what they ask you for them, as you can as usual buy them much 
cheaper by holding out for a lower price. 

I left Florence at 6.30 in the morning and arrived in Venice af- 
ter a very pleasant ride, about two o'clock. As Venice is all is- 
lands, I took the hotel gondola as you would take a bus here, and 
was rapidly conveyed to the hotel Victoria and soon sallied out to 
see the city. The smaller canals ai'j covered with bridges in many 
places so that one can go a foot nearly all over the city, with the 
aid of little ferries that take you for a penny across the Grand Ca- 
nal I visited the factories and shops of Guzzi & Co., one of the 
largest and most extensive in the city, who do a great deal of import- 
ing all over the world. Their specialties are fine furniture, and the 
manufacture of the beautiful Venetian glassware, mosaics, and fine 
china. There was so much of the beautiful in their warerooms 
that one would have liked to have spent some time, and considerable 
money, but that was out of the question so I had to travel aiong. 
The gondoliers handle their boats very expertly, especially in 
coming out or going in those small canals, that do not seem to be 
much wider than the boat itself. Their prices are regulated by the 
municipality, and have a fixed tariff of about thirty cents an 
hour to one dolv<ar and fifty per day. Venice at one time a pros- 
perous city of' a million inhabitants, is now, only a small place of a- 
bout one hundred and fifty thousand, living on the history of its 
past and the tourists. One wonders why many of the small canals 
are not filied up, and they look at you with horror lor the sugges- 
tion, and say what would become of the place if this our only dis- 
tinguishing thing from the rest of the world was done away with; 
not for them. The other points of interest about Venice, of cours< 
are St. Marks Square, with the Cathedral, and the famous steeple 
which fell in 1902, the rebuilding of which is nearly finished, and 
the Ducal palace which also fronts on the square. The square is 
where all Venice goes in the evening, they have band concerts night- 
ly, and the place is surrounded by fine restaurants and shops. The 
famous Bridge of Sighs is close by. The famous old Church of St. 
Mark is said to contain the bones. o<t St Mark brought to that place 
in 829 and a cathedral was built, it was destroyed and rebuilt about 
920. The architectpre is peculiar having no one style, but some- 
thing of all styles, a sort of a harmonious mixture; it is rich in 
estimable granite and basalt marbles, while pagan iragments alter- 
nate with religious relics, Greek columns with Byzantine embell- 
ishments. It is very rich with fine mosaics pretty neartly the whole 
bible history being depicted in the naves and ceilings. The Ducal 
Paiace is another point of interest containing many fine paintings 
frescoes and statues as well as the 1 anions prisons and courts of the 
Council of Ten. The Royal Art Galleries also contain very many old 
and beautiful paintings. 



148 

Venice is a very easy place to get lost in as no street is- over 
any straight distance in length and there are so many abrupt 
turns that one soon gets bewildered, unless you keep close track 
of iroioi whence you came; there are so many what we could call 
.blind alleys that make you retraceyour steps. A map has to be care- 
fully found and, studied here. The Grand Canal is lined on both sides 
for nearly its whole length with the old palaces of the Doges, many 
oi them of fine architecture but much in decay,, some are now used 
for hotels, for factories, and for stores, and a few of them for 
dwellings. It is another place where one could spend a week or two 
very profitably. They have much in the shops that are well worth 
buying, in the glass work, in the carved and painted leather, the 
fine carved furniture, mosaic and paintings, and nearly anything in 
the art line. 



u i no socoe a w ■ ■ ' — — 



149. 



CHAPTER XXIIf . 
VENICE TO OBERAMMAGAU. 

I left Venice about 9.30 a. m. and after I gpt on the train Hound 
I had taken the wrong one to make my connections at Verona, for 
the train lor Munich, Looking over my timetable carefully (one of 
Cook's issue and a very good thing' to have), I discovered there was 
a train de Luxe and last mail as they call them in Europe, leaving 
Verona five minutes alter this one arrived, and looking out on arri- 
val saw a train standing there, had the porter take my grip, and ask- 
ed the train man if he would accept a second class ticket and I pay 
the difference, and he saying yes, I boarded the train and had one of 
the finest rides I had in Europe, it was over the lamous Brenner 
pass, through all that beautiful Tyrol mountain scenery. There was 
but three passengers on the whole train of three passenger cars and 
we certainly rode in state as the cars of the International Schlat- 
wagon Express Train Co., (so called) are very tine ones correspond- 
ing to our Drawing room cars in this country. I paid the excess 
fare as far as Innsbruck, that pretty village in the heart of the Ty- 
rol mountains, which surrounds it on all sides to the height of a coup 
le thousand feet; the total excess fare for first a'lass and all amount 
ing to about $3.50, as only first class tickets are allowed to travel on 
those trains or cars. It took from eleven in the morning to seven 
in the evening to make the journey and at one point we were so high 
in the mountains, that it became very cold. 

The road in some places doubled over on ii gain the necessary 

height to cross the mountains, one tunnel being over a mile in length 
It was a line feat of engineering and at the station on the summit 
I noticed a monument to a man who I learned was the engineer who 
had planned and built the road, I have forgotten the name. 
The mountains in many places are very precipitous and in other 
places old castles were noticed, located so that one would think you 
would not have been able to get to, let alone to storm and take 
them. Many pretty waterfalls leaped from great heights, and the run 
ning water was used lor power in many places on the grade down 
to Innsbruck, the great fall making a smaj.1 amount of water give a 
large power. 

Innsbruck is a rather pretty and busy city, nestled as it is in the 
mountains, and many ol the native costume of the Tyrolians are 
seen on the streets and in the business places. I left about 7.30 the 
next morning lor Munich arriving at noon stopping] at the Hotel Bell- 
evue which is located on the principal square of the city. The beer 



150 

gardens and breweries of Munich are the famous things there and; 
are known ail over the world. They number sixteen, some of them 
belong to the city itself, and from them are named many of the beer 
products oi this country. The price of beer is the same in all places 
regulated by law, that they must give a full litre (about a quart) of 
solid beer for six cents, or half a litre ior three, and it must be beer 
and not froth, under penalty of a. fline. Some of the breweries, most 
all of which have larg e beer gardens connected with them, have extra 
fine furnished places upstairs in which they are privileged to charg/e 
nine cents for the litre oi beer. 

The beer must be brewed the full time, is not adulterated with 
acids, and is very palatable. The largest gardens in connection with 
the breweries are the LowenBrau Keller, Hof Brau Keller, Burgier 
Brau Kefller, Keller meaning cellar, though it is rarely called a cellar 
as we call it, and the Pschor Brau, each one ol them accommodate 
about three thousand people. They always have fine bands of music 
and charge a nominal admission. They also have outside gardens 
adjoining used in fine weather. 

The town is a very interesting one to walk over as well as to 
ride, though I preferred walking, you saw so much more and there 
is much of interest that is lost by going around in carriages. They 
have line summer parks and resorts, and a good street railway sys- 
tem. The city is rich in good architectural buildings of many styles., 
and also rich in good art museums, and is well worth a long stay, be- 
ing about as interesting in the winter as m the summer, on account 
of the numerous festivals going on nearly all the time. 

Munich is practically the clearing place for the Passion Play at 
Oberammagau, and you have to pass through Munich to get there 
by rail. During the Passion Play the hotels of Munich raise their 
rates. The days beiore the production of the play, trains are run- 
ning out to Oberammagau with great frequency, oiten one train hav- 
ing six or eight sections, about ten minutes apart, leaving as fast 
as loaded. In former years, you could go out there make your own 
arrangements lor rooms at moderate prices, and stay where you 
would, but this year the sense of commercialism has prevaded this 
place and now to get a seat for the regular dates of production 
you had to engage accommodation weeks in advance generally, and 
pay ten doillars for your board from Saturday night to Monday morn- 
ing, whether you used it or not, and no matter what kind you ob- 
tained. 

The householders were alloted out the tickets the afternoon be- 
fore the play according to the number of accommodations that had 
been engaged, which they distributed to the parties that engaged 
them and no amount oi persuasion or bribery seemed to be able to 
get you better seats or accommodations than they wished to give you 
You had to take what was allotedyou, and I certainly did not draw 
a prize package in accommodations though it was said to be a hotel, 
it was certainly a terror both for sleeping accommodations and the 
eating, and to think you paid ten dollars ffor what the average board- 
ing house in America would have charged you about one dollar for 
would have made you grit your teeth. I slept one night and ate one 
meal and was glad to get out at that. They asked you to register, 



151 ' ' * 

and a space was left for remarks, which I gladly failed in with some 
thing, meaning the poorest I had ever slrucK, only used much stronger 
language. But you seemed not to be able to get a ticket in any oth- 
er way for their regular production so you had to put up with it. 

By regular production I mean the dates the plays were hilled for, 
that being generally Sunday and Holy days, but the crowds and appli- 
cations are so far ahead oil the four thousand capacity of the play 
house, that they have the practice of repeating the performance the 
next succeeding day, and sometimes the third day aiter, making the 
number of applications estimated at times in the neighborhood of 
ten thousand lor one performancealone. For these overflow per- 
iormances as they were called, ticket could often be purchased with- 
out the requirements of the excessive board bill, but had to be got- 
ten from the people of the village as no tickets were ever given or 
sent out ol the village nor could any definite places be reserved. 

Of 160 houses in the village all took from four to forty board- 
ers during the play, and you had to go into garrets, two in a bed, or 
anyplace they put you unless you wished to pay double lior the ac- 
commodation, to be alone. Of course there were some exceptional 
homes in the place, of some of the better class people, where the ac- 
commodation was of the best both eating and sleeping;, and lucky were 
those who drew the prize packages but they were few and far 
between. Though the people of the village made Jittle out of the 
play on account oi the enormous expense they were put to, they did 
make considerable individually by selling trinkets and wood carvings 
etc., that they had been making for ten years past for souvenirs to 
sell to the visitors during this one season. But this time they de- 
termined to go one better and make the lar./e charge lor the accommo- 
dation, and thus get some money while the low price for the piay 
remained the same. 

The costs for the seats ranged from fifty cents to $2.50 for the 
whole performances, which lasted from eight o'clock in the morning 
until six in the evening, with two hours intermission at noon for 
lunch and rest, for you need it, for the seats were ordinary slat ben- 
ches, of very hard wood it seemed and the natives made a nice thing 
of renting cushions, that could have been made here for a quarter, 
for a mark (25 cents) a performance, and they made you deposit 75 
cents lor the guarantee of the return of it. My landlady handed 
me a second place ticket which costs eight marks ($2.00) when I had 
paid ten lor it, and I objected and received two marks back, but I 
said I wished a ten mark seat and she answered she did not have it. 
I noticed that number was high and from my previous experience 
of ten years ago, when I visited the p'ay in 1900, I knew some of 
the second place tickets were as good as the first, if I could get far- 
ther front, so I fussed and fumed around and finally got her to let me 
see all her tickets, and I soon picked what I felt sure was a good num- 
ber, and I found out the next day it was and I had a good seat to 
view the periormance. 

Another way to get to Oberammag-m was a thirty mile drive o- 
ver the mountains from Innsbruck, which is a very pretty one and 
only a moderate price for a party. There are several interesting 
drives around the place, that are beautiful, and a visit to one of 



152 

the palaces of the Kings, about 8 miles off was well worth the trip. 

A short history of the Passion Play will be of interest The 
thing that attracts tourists from &U over the world to come to this 
little obscure mountain village, cannot but be of some interest. It 
originated in 1634 when a plague was raging^ and the peasants made 
a vow that if the ravages of the plague were stayed, they would rep- 
resent the Passion off the Saviour once each ten years. (The vow- 
has been carefully kept all this time and mostly at Oberammagiau 
with a couple of exceptions, it has oi < late been much elaborated on 
and became a source of interest to the outside world. Many de- 
plore the commercialism with which it is now seemingly surrounded, 
and the peasants are shrewd, and in a way you cannot blame them, 
but their habits mode of living, buildings and work of life seem to 
say that there has not been much money made on it in the past, but 
this year it iooks much brighter foreveryone to have a life long com- 
petance. The commercialism does not seem to be of the mean or sor- 
did sort that some would have us believe, and the play is surely pre- 
sented in a real spirit of religious piety, notwithstanding thefact that 
the money making end is not overlooked; and yet the cost of the show 
itself is not high lor the long time and the large number of perform- 
ers that take part, and the infrequency that it is shown. They could 
easily obtain ten dollars for the best seats, and still have over half 
the attendance and make considerably more money with less effort, 
but they seem satisfied with their low prices. The individual players 

not benefit largely, for after paying all expenses the receipts of 
the play are divided into thirds, one third going to the community 
and two thirds to the players, who arc divided into classes according 
to their relative importance, each member of each class receiving the 
same amount. For example Anton I^ang, the Christ of 1900, who is in 
the list class, received $350.00 for his share of that season ,f;rom May 
to September. 

The play is given in a large building open at one end like a 
large train shed, with a sloping floor, crossed with hard benches. The 
stage is entirely in the open as are some oi the front and cheapest 
seats, but the small central portion of the stage is roofed over and 
has a curtain and is where the tableaus are shown. The play gjoes on 
rain or shine, Very few of the :large audiences leave while the 
play ig going on. the great majority showing an intense interest in it, 
and at the end the whole audience shows the emotion in the vivid- 
ness with which the last days of Christ are depicted and acted by 
those simple peasants, whose whole soul seems to be in the play, 
The play begins with the entry oi Christ into Jerusalem and foll- 
ows him through his persecution, and crucifixion, and resurrection. 
It follows the style of the Greek plays in which a prologue plays an 
important part. Each of the numerous acts into which it is divided 
is heralded by the chorus, in their flowing robes of all colors. The 
chorus makes a very good appearance and their singing is good 
though there are no voices that seem to be much above the ordinary. 
Twice their robes are exchanged for all black, immediately before 
and after the crucifixion. The stage is very large, the number on 
it sometimes being nearly seven hundred. The two wings or sides o$ 
the stage give an appearance of streets fading away in the distance, 



45a 

and ft being open io the sky with the mountains ior its background 
make it an impressive scene. The total width of the stage is about 
150 feet. The grouping is also very elective at times. 

The actors all of them have the appearance oS being very much 
in earnest. Lang acts the part of the Christ very well, though he was 
not so impressive this time as ten years ago when he was then rath- 
er thin and looked more the part than now, as he is at present very 
fat weighing I should say about 220 pounds. The Judas Iscariot was 
exceedingly well portrayed, looking] and acting every instant the part 
and even on the street in his ordinary clothes you would immediate- 
ly pick him out for his part. In lact all the principal, actors looked 
their parts in their daily vocations of iile, so earnestly do they live 
up to the play. Nobody is allowed to act in the play who was not 
born and raised in the village. The play is run by a village committee 
with autocratic powers. The King of Sweden and one of the German 
princes had witnessed it the Sunday before I was there. They have 
a lew booths in the rear of the auditorium reserved lor the royalty 
and nobility who see the production. 

Taking the play all in all it is wonderful, and the most wonder- 
ful thing about it is that these simple peasants, notwithstanding the 
fact that they are shrewd enough to take advantage of the interest 
the world shows in their performance, should be able to present it 
with such extraordinary ability. Among them are several who r it 
seems to me would win fame on any stagey while the manner in 
which the various characters andscenes are blended into a harmoni- 
ous whole, in which one could sc arce P ic k a flaw, is amazing. The 
machinery of the play is so smooth that there seems to be not a min- 
ute wait from begining to end and possibly this smooth succession 
of acts and scenes helps greatjy in hoi ding the audience during the 8 
hours of the play, but at times the singiag of, the prologue being in 
German as is all the language of the play seemed rather long and 
tiresome, that might not be if one understood the language thorough- 
ly. 

A little knowledge of German with an aequafntaace of the Bible 
helped you very much to follow along with the play, and hooks could 
be purchased that ran the English translation and German side by 
side, but to follow with the books detracted from your thoroughly 
seeing the full performance and they really should be read before- 
hand a couple of times to get you better acquainted with the run of 
it. Before every act there is a tableau from the old testament 
that made a connection between the old testament and the new,, of 
the act to follow. I will give you an illustration; the scene before 
the betrayal of Christ by Judas for thirty pieces of silver, was that' 
of; Joseph's brothers selling him into bondage in Egypt. I consid- 
ered it well worth the time and money spent to see &, a second time,, 
and hope to be able to witness it again ten years hence. The vill- 
age looked much more prosperous than it did ten years ago. Lang's 
small house ten years ago of one story and a ga.rre&, had become a 
fine two story and garret villa. There is no doubt alter *his season 
performances all will even be in much! better- circumstances, and be 
able to have more pretentious homes. 

I had the pleasure of meeting! Mr.. Henry Ellsworth ojT Dayton, O. 



154 

while there;. He has made Oberammagau his summer home for the- 
last eleven years, and told me much that was interesting of the life 
of these simple villagers. He is a Lecturer and author and connect- 
ed with the Dramatic Mirror of New York which I have represented 
1'or twenty years. 

The German unit of money is the mark,, (twenty five cents in 
our money) divided into one hundred parts called pfennings, with the 
usual small, copper, silver, and nickel coinage as well as gold. I 
left Oberammagau at 6.20 Sunday evening arrived in Munich and took 
the 9;40 train p. m., for Linz in Austria arriving there at four 
Qi'telock in the morning was somewhat bothered on the way by the 
Austrian customs, there and at Belgian frontier, were the only places 
of the eighteen custom houses that I passed through, that I was re- 
quired to open my baggage. Most times the words 'American", "ai- 
res' pointing to my baggage and 'no tobae, no liquor' T would be 
sufficient and the officers would go on. I intended taking the steam- 
er from Linz at nine o'clock for the ride of about 150 miles down 
the beautiful Danube river to Vienna. Between that time and when 
I arrived I walked over Linz andalso got my breakfast. I enjoyed 
the ride to Vienna very much and would recommend all to take it 
that could when traveling abroad 



155 



CHAPTER XXIV. 
VIENNA TO STOCKHOLM. 

I arrived at Vienna, Wien it is called in that country, at five (f- 
clock and took a cab for a ride ofl nearly three miles to the hotel in 
the heart o'f the city. It is certainly a beautiful city and I think a- 
long with Berlin, the finest in Europe. The many magnificant build- 
ings, the great growth, said to have considerably over two million 
population now, and the industry apparent everywhere marks it for 
a still larger growth. The street called the Ring Strasse I thought 
one of the most beautiful in the world. It circles the city from the 
river to the river, now of course being in the heart of the city, but 
which at one time fifty years agio was the ground on which the walls 
of the city stood. Though the foresight and broad Hand- 
edness of the present Emperor Er anz Joseph who is beloved by all, 
the old walls were razed and a beautiful street made containing walks, 
drives, bridle paths, and trolley avenues, none interfering with the 
other, all separated with fine shade trees interlaced with many small 
parks containing fountains, statuary etc., and there are also many fine 
business blocks, palaces, hotels, and residences, olf architecture in har- 
mony with the public buildings, making the street one beautiful vista 
from end to end. The princely flavor of the Emperor in every field 
ot art, had the tendency to make all a picture of artistic invention 
and energy. 

The new money of Austria is the crown or krone as the unit, the 
value being a little over twenty cents, that is divided into one hun- 
dred parts called heller. Formerly before 1901, the unit was a florin 
divided into one hundred kreuzer, the florin being forty cents in A- 
merican money, and you will run across both kinds of money still in 
use, so that you have to get acquainted with both; and on top of this 
comes the Hungarian coinage which is also current in Austra, the krone 
being divided in what is called filler, so that you would have the vari- 
ous smatl pieces going under the names of kreuzer, heller and filler 
the two latter being ot the same v a i U e the former equal to two of the 
others. Of course the usual small bronze nickel and silver coinage 
and also gold and paper. 

The business places, stores, etc. a re superior to any you see else- 
where and everywhere seems to fee progression, unlike Rome, Venice, 
Paris and some of those cities that are living on their past. But my 
time was limited so I confined it to walking many miles over the 
city, greatly interested in what I saW j a nd sorry to leave on Tuesday 
evening June 7th lor Dresden Ger many an a ll night ride of, about 
nine hours, again having to pass through a custom house but this 
time not molested, 



Dre&ieat is located oa the river Elbe a small, shallow stream that 
runs, for .■several hundred miles through Germany into the North Sea 
Hfflar Hamburg. 'The way the Germans utilize that river for trans- 
portation would be a wonder tem. hundreds of boats both barges and 
steamers drawing about two feet .or less of water pass continually 
123s aM down this .shallow river, averaging in depth it was told me a- 
bout five feet, loaded with all sorts of heavy freight making the trans- 
pEjrfcaUoa oasis, a very low figure., Think of] all the water courses 
thai eonid be utilised as well, going to waste in this country. It 
cast the Yienese 24.000,000 marks to conserve the waters of the Danu- 
be, feint they have a fine navigable river at all seasons of the year on 
w&atitoi millions ©f tons of traffic is continually passing to and llro. 
.For considerable -distance where the Elbe river has a stiff, current 
Ifcat would be hard to steam against with a tow there are low iron tow 
basis, with sloping ends, that pick up an iron cable located in the 
feed ©f the stream and slowly pull themselves up against the current 

h from three to six barges behind. The cable runs up over the 
fa&w and passes out ■over the .stern. Of course it never interferes as 
hoafas going down do not need the use oJf it, so that it is only used 
by towing steamers going against the current. 

I visited a post card factory in Dresden one of the largest andfin- 

in Europe and was very much interested in the work. The gelatine 
pad cards so ©ailed which are the best of! the common card work are 
all really etchings made on plate glass in sheets of thirty on a pane 
and require a good deal of pains and care in printing the work not 
o^mg like the printing of cards in America, but handled like engrav- 
ings. They also manufacture those elegant twelve color cards which 
a«e copies maialy of the famous paintings of Europe and in the mak- 
ing oi which It requires twelve different stones and printing, being 
3 Anagraphs but otf the best. It was a\ well equipped factory and well 
worth a visit. Dresden is also a. very fine progressive city with many 
fcldags of interest and one of| the finest art galleries in the world, con- 
taining a large number of masterpieces, the prize one being the Sis- 
tine Madona which has a room in the gallery all to itself. 

Another place of interest was what is called the Green "Vault, be- 
ing a lew rooms in the lower part of one of the palaces, filled with 
rare Jewelery, antiques and gems of all sorts of enormous value,, said 
to be worth about nine million marks. They belong to the Saxon 
Princes or Kingdom I believe, and are rigorously guarded. In the af- 
ternoon I took a drive over the city through the parks with the rep- 
resentative of the post card fjirm. We went to one of the numerous 
parks found everywhere in German cities that have such fine musie 
and you also find many of the municipalities with their elegant free 
band concerts every pleasant day. 

I left Dresden about two p. m., for Berlin where I arrived at five 
©clock and went to the Hotel Bellevue, located on the Potsdamer 
Plate which is said to be one of the busiest spots in Europe. It was 
a sight of itself day and night andall night at that. Five of the prin- 
cipal streets come together there and all the main street ear and bus 
lines of the city pass through or start from that place and many of 
the roolfgardens and open sidewalk restaurants surround it so that it 
is indeed a great place for the study of humanity; and like; Broadway 



157 

seemed to have as much going on at three o'clock in the morning as 
in the day time. As I could only be in the city a couple of days and 
wanted to see all I could I concluded to take Cook's rubberneck au- 
tos and it is really worth while when time is limited and one wants 
to get a general view of a place. 

Berlin is on a par with Vienna for general prosperity, art and being 
the finest city in Europe though the general ensemble of buildings 
•etc., in Vienna on the Ringstrasse was better and prettier than that 
of Unter Den Linden, Berlin's famous street which is a straight line 
while Vienna's street is circular following the old walled lines of the 
city. Untex Den Linden contains many of the principal buildings of 
the city but the archieetture is not so harmonious or the streets 
near so pretty I think as the Ringstrasse. I was very much amazed 
while out one day to see the if ire department respond to an alarm 
and a large one it must have been as the great number of pieces of 
fire apparatns all late designs went by and all under motor power; 
ladder trucks, engines down to the lig|ht chiefs cart. I was amazed 
in cause all the apparatus I had seen in my travels heretofore had 
been of. a very much inferior line and muchly antiquated. I had the 
g^eat pleasure of seeing and hearing Grand Opera at the New Grand 
Opera House. Lohengrin was the play and it was very very good 
indeed, the singing of the chorus as well as the principals being ex- 
ceptional. 

On Saturday the 11th of Junel took the Cook's auto for a ride to 
Potsdam about fifteen miles froniBerlin where the palaces of the 
present Emperor and also that of Frederick the Great are located. It 
was a very fine ride through""fhe~ Green woods stopping at a lake and 
taking a motor boat jar a 3 mile ride up the lake to Pottsam. We 
visited the Tomb of Frederick in the old church there, that also con- 
tains many relics of his days and went through his fine large palace 
with its beautiful and extensive grounds. The palace is said to be 
the same as it was when he was living and is a veritable museum that 
gave you somewhat of an insight of the life and doings of this wonder- 
full man. The gardens are about n a par with those' of Versailles in 
France with the numerous fountains and statuary etc., all through 
this extensive place. The ride to L from about ten in the morning . 
to five in the afternoon and was a day well spent. 

I left Berlin on Sunday about eleven o'clock for the long trip 
to Stockholm over the already fa m ous Sassnitz-Trelleborg car ferry 
.across the Baltic Sea. We arrived at Sassnitz at four o'clock af- 
ter a nice ride through North Ger m any where the cars were shifted 
on a mammoth ferry boat from th e rear, the front of the boat be- 
ing closed in with a sharp iron prow, to breast the heavy seas. 
It took about four hours to cross the distance being nearly seventy 
miles and at Trelleborg the boat was turned around going into the 
dock backwards and the cars run off and the train made up for the 
run to Stockholm a distance of four hundred miles. The Custom 
House officers inspected you on t a€ boat before you landed so that 
there was no delay from that eaus e . This new and fine ferry was on- 
ly opened a couple of years ago both the Emperor of Germany and 
the King of Sweden being present it being dedicated with great cere- 
aaony. At Malmo a short distance from the port the train was broken 



up, trams leaving from here to g© to Copenhagen, Christiana, and to 
iStoekfosilm azwl it was here I had my first experience with the Swed- 
ish sleeping scare. The railroads are owned by the government. 

The sleeping ears .are first and second class, the rates of fare of 
the one feeing double the other. I paid six krone to Stockholm (1.50) 
fm second class the only difference being in the number of the berths 
m. the coaipartaent, each compartment had doors which locked and 
com. id be completely shot off from the rest ©fj the car. Outside the 
door ©a the side was a little bronze holder which had a metal slip 
in it designating first or sBCrOad class, the slips being reversible, first 
class being printed on one side, and second on the other. Inside there 
was rather, wide comfortable seats ran the length of the compartment 
the back of the lower seat liftings up and being hooked to the ceiling 
by chains making an upper berth so that each compartment could 
(Contain four persons. To make it first class, only the lower berths 
were sold. It might happen if travel was light you would buy second 
class and yet really get first class accommodations as there would no 
be enough tickets sold to occupy the uppers. The conductor of the 
tain brought in a blanket some sheets and pillows and it really 
made up a fairly comfortable berth though it was only about two 
and a hali feet wide, with nothing on the side to prevent you jjrom 
rolling off should it happen you had the nightmare while you slept. 
So you wanted to be careful what you ate before going to bed. I slept 
very ioomfort&My and enjoyed the ^ide very much. We were fast go- 
ing Itoriii and it <did not get dark until after nine o'clock and the sun 
rase about .three as we were so much farther north than when we 
went to sleep. 

I arrived in Stockholm af nine o'clock in the morning and feel- 
ing soiled .and tired went out to get a bath and was very much sur- 
prised to have lady attendants who performed all the necessary 
bath details including the rubbing an d drying. I found this was the 
custom in Sweeden and nothing w as thought of it. the attendants be- 
ing mostly niidd'e aged married women. 

There is a -travel guide made small for the pocket edited by E. 
E. Stedmam that sells for one dollar and a quarter that is one of the 
best condensed helps you can get for a quick trip through Europe. 
The money ot Sweden is the same f 0r all the Scandinavian Peninsu- 
la which consists of .the countries Q f Sweden, Norway and Denmark, 
though each country issues her own currency the silver and the gold 
and copper and the state money of paper goes in each others country 
without question. The unit of value is the crown (or Krone) which 
is worth about 26 cents and that is divided up into the one hundred 
parts called Ore with the usual small eopper and silver coinage. 

Stockholm is a tine progressive c ity oft 350,000 inhabitants, and still 
growing steadily, building going on all the time. It has many 
factories of all kinds. The streets are well kept. The town is some- 
what hilly strictly level spots being few. It is often dubbed the 
Venice of the North on account of the numerous waterways and is- 
lands but does not have any Of the canals like Venice. Tiny flat 
boats propelled by steam run through the various waters to carry 
passengers around to the islands and various landing places. Tele- 
phones are tound on the various street corners enclosed in a small 



159 

lattice work which for two cents you. can talk any place in the dis- 
trict. The telephone service is very cheap here and in a high state 
of perfection, far ahead of the United States. In Stockholm there is 
a telephone for every 6 persons. The rates are very low, from 50 
cents to one dollar a month for a phone- 
Besides the city itself there are many surrounding points of 
beauty and interest reached mostly by boats. The Quaint costumes 
are rarely seen outside of the waitresses in the Beergardens and the 
aura-its. The D.jurgarden and Skansen is well worth a visit part 
being the Zoological Garden and the other a beautiful park with 
the life of the country from the time of dark ages all carefully de- 
picted by huts, camps, colonies, etcmaking a fine exhibition of the 
progress and growth of civilization from the earliest time. The Bio- 
iosioal museum here being the only one of its kind in the world. 
For three} months in the summer it never gets real dark, at eleven 
o'clock in the evening in June it is light enough so you c an see to 
read a paper. I found very few petple who could speak English here 
much to mv surprise, and it was even difficult to make them under- 
stand the sign language. The railway fares arc peculiar, the longer 
the distance traveled She less proportionate rate of fare, twelve hun- 
dred miles costing you but ten dollars third class with a single extra 
charge of fifty cents for express trains. . 

A few of the other places of interest all well worth a. visit h 
the Roval Palace. National Museum, Riksmuseum and several minor 
ones Ml have a nominal charge from ten cents io a quarter oi a 
dollars for admission. I happened to witness several thrilling accidents 
on the water in one day. One a woman attempted to committ sui- 
cide by jumping into the rapid current right near the palace and after 
drifting some little distance was saved by a rapid moving police boa,. 
Just before that in the afternoon one of the little ferry boats ran 
down a motor boat and nearly cut it in two, and sank it, but tne 
plucky fellow in it, held on to the tie rope of the motor boat until res- 
cued, to save it from being lost, though he nearly lost his life m 
doing it Another time a motor boat coming down the swift current, 
also near the palace, got crosswise in it and upset, and two men and a 
woman were thrown in the water but they were rescued by the po- 
lice boats, that are always handy for emergencies of this kind. 



o, — 0- 



16ft 



THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN. 

I left Stockholm at 9.15 P. M. taking a sleeper to Christiana- a runs 
of about 500 miles arriving about eleven the next day. The town is 
rather a sleepy old place of about 80,000 population does not seem to 
he improving and like the rest of the Norway living off the tourists. 
The natives it seems all leave the country that can, to come to Amer- 
ica, there being over four million Norwegians in America at the pres- 
ent time, and only about two million and a half in Norway. The Uni- 
versity here is rather a famous one and occupies a good many build- 
ings. There are a coutple of museums of the usual order but noth- 
ing of large interest in them except the exhibits of the dress, fishing 
and hunting implements of the Northmen and some of the imple- 
ments etc., of the early Yikings. 

The one exhibit that interested me most of all was one of the 
old "Viking ships that had been lately unearthed and restored in 
part, and was on exhibition. The custom with them was when some- 
body of importance died, to bury them in one of the ships and on the 
land, digging a large hols and covering the vessel over completely 
with earth for a mound. This one on view was evidently one of the 
royal family there were so many things of value found with i ; t and 
the ship was so large namely seventy feet long, and sixteen feet 
wide, with places for thirty oars. It had happened to be buried in 
a clay and for that reason was preserved for all these centuries the 
time of the ship being estimated at about 800 A. D. It is all the more 
interesting when it is known undoubtedly that America was first vis 
ited by these roving Norsemen in some of these ships about 1000 A. D> 

English speaking people are found here and everywhere else in 
Norway in great numbers and no trouble was had getting along at all 
on that account, even at every little railroad station and on the 
trains they all seem to know the language. It is because there are 
so many Americans and English travel in that" country during the 
summer months, and much shipping [between Norwegian and Eng- 
the ports, makes a knowledge of the language somewhat compulsory, 
I stopped at the Grand Hotel but found it a poor one and inclined to 
gouge. The next time I used the Hotel Scandinavie a little nearer- 
the depot and found it much better.. 

There being so little of interest in Christiana I did not tarry 
long but left for Trondjhem whicfr is straight north, about four o'- 
clock in the afternoon, a ride of 500 miles. At Hamar one hundred 
miles from Christians we transferred to a littfe narrow guage railroao 
the guage of which I dont think was over two and a half feet. The 
stars were very diminutive, in the s-leepers of the train, there was* & 




The Viking Ship at Christiana, Norway 




The Meriden Column at Hammerfest, Norway 



161 

narrow seat for one only on either side of the centre isle, and the 
latter were made up into single berths that gave you no room to 
turn over, but having become used to sleeping on narrow berths I 
managed to get a good nights rest, though it was not dark at midnight, 
and the sun rose at two o'clock in the morning we having gone north 
so rapidly. The country through which the railroad ran was mostly 
hilly, somewhat picturesque, but only partially used and many abandon 
ed farms were noticed. There was some lumber operations going on 
there, being a good deal of standing timber, but of a stunted growth, 
the logs being small. 

I arrived in Trondjhem the next Thursday the sixteenth of June 
at seven o'clock, left the train immediately and started to see the 
place. The town is progressing, ami being the largest town in the 
world that high north is of some interest, for the great amount of 
shipping there, with three lines of railroad, a large industral college 
just building, and a fine old cathedral, a magnificient specimen of 
architecture being all one material, a grey stone and handsomely carv- 
ed. There is the ruin of an old fort on a hill overlooking the town 
and a visit to the great Lerfossen Falls about seven miles from the 
town with their large power plants are all of interest. There are a 
couple of small museums of slight interest but one day spent in the 
town if you are busy covers it all. 

I soon hunted the wharf to find what sort of a boat I was going 
to make my home in for the next week, and found the Kong Harold 
a v LU y nice staunch up to date little craft, with good accommodations 
and a very pleasant, affable and obliging crew of officers and men 
'The name of the ship was much easier to pronounce than the name 
of the line to which the ship belonged it was (set your teeth) "Det 
Nordi-nfjeldske Dampskibseiskab" a nice pleasant mild one to go to 
bed dreaming about. 

The boat sailed at ten P. M., in the evening while the sun was 
still high in the heavens and a large crowd was down to see us off, ft 
being) the first trip of the season for her and there being many local 
people on this trip, for all of the berths were not engaged like iti was 
for the later trips in the summer. The farther we got north it became 
rather cold as the weather after we crossed the Arctic Circle was 
sharp and damp, with occasional rains and fog, and I soon felt ft 
with only summer clothing, and no overcoat, the trip having being 
planned sort of unexpectedly, and after I had packed all my trunks 
and shipped them to Hamburg. The most of the passengers were 
Norwegians, used to the weather and having heavy Wraps, did not 
mind it, but the few Americans and English on board did, so I final- 
ly went to the Captain and asked him to warm up one room we could 
go to toget the chill off and he did so. I heretofore had been going 
in alongside the smoke stack and standing against it to get warm. 

I had a forward stateroom large enough for four, but there was 
only two of us in it, so that it was finewith plenty of room to spread 
your baggage out. All the berths on the boat are lowers, there be- 
ing none at all having uppers which made all the rooms rather pLeas 
ant. Dr. Martin P. Rindlaub, Jr., of Fargo, was my lucky drawing 
for a roommate a very genial, companionable fellow and we got a- 
iong v ery nicely together. On Friday at noon we passed Torghattan 



162 

an island on which is a high mountain peak with an enormous nat- 
ural tunnel right through the centre of it. We did not land this 
time but did so coming back after a climb got up inside and climbed 
through to the other side of it. No explanation can be had of the or- 
gin of it. At six thirty Hesmando (or Horseman) Island was passed 
so named from it looking at a distance like a man on horseback and 
at this point we crossed the Arctic Circle. About eight o'clock we turn- 
ed into a fjord to visit the Svartisen Glacier one of the largest in. 
the World in extent, being thirty five miles long and from ten to fif- 
teen wide. It isan enormous bodyof snow and ice. We landed and 
took a climb over part of it but it began to rain so we hurried baen 
to the ship, but did not get there before we all had gotten a pretty 
good dulcking. 

Even here in this wild place with not a habitation in sight we 
found the native with his post cards for sale, as wtell as some other 
small trinkets of the country. The next day at the table we found a 
pretty sailors ribbon at oup plates with the name of the boat on it 
and also a very pretty scarf pins for the men and brooch pins for the 
ladies, enameled with the initials of the line. The Captain, B. Arnet 
by name, was a fine old fellow a typical Norseman, as we could pict- 
ure him in the days of the Vikings, and genial and good natured to a 
fault, doing everything that could be wished to please his passengers. 
It had begun to get cold after we left the Arctic Circle and the ther- 
mometer stood 38 degrees all day. The day before while passing 
through some of the narrow channels we were told to get some let- 
ters or cards ready and they would be put in a bottle and mailed by 
being thrown off the ship, and a boat would come along and collect 
them, we did so and they arrived at their destinations all right. 

All day long we were passing pretty pieces of scenery consisting 
of islands, mountains, fjords, etc., particularly the Lofeten Isles. A- 
bout seven o'clock we landed at Tromso where the boat stayed for a 
few hours Which gave us an opportunity to get off and observe a 
very prosperous little town, with much small shipping principally in 
the fishing industries. Large quantities of salmon were dried and 
cured for the market, they were hung on frames and sun cured and 
covered an acre of ground. We saw here the first Lapps, a small, 
dirty, half ignorant race most with eye diseases, they had trinkets for 
sale at pretty nearly any price you wished to pay. Leaving about ten 
we ran all night (or rather day if the light is taken into considera- 
tion) and early next morning arrived at the village of Hammerfest, 
the farthest north town in the world It is a village located on a well 
sheltered bay and contains about two thousand inhabitants. Fishing 
and tourists seem to be the chief industries here. The long three 
months night of winter they have here they just hibernate as it 
were, seeing nobody from the outside world, for nearly five months, 
as everything is frozen up during that time. 

A visit was made to the Meriden column, which is a bronze col- 
umn on a pyramid of stone with a ball or globe on top in bronze, and 
with the world outlined on it. It was located there by the Norwegian an 
Swedish governments as an established place from which measure- 
ments of time and distance can be taken. We left Hammerfest a 
bout noon and m the af*ernoon passed close to what it called the 



iJird Rock. K is- a proinolory of rock that when first seen looks 
white, and on closer inspection is found to be covered so close with 
birds that it is- given that appearance-. When we drew up real close 
I tie captain had a gun fired and for a few minutes you could not 
see the sky so thick was the cloud of birds that flew from it. 

We arrived at North Cape in the evening at six o'clock and ai- 
l.'r steaming ar'oftind for a little wnile finally went into a hay back 
of the headland and were landed for a climb of about one thousand 
feet up a very steep mountain to view the midnight sun, a sort of a 
path zigzaged back and forth upward with ropes planted to act as 
hand rails to climb and keep from railing and after a strenous climb 
we arrived at the top and a walk of about half a mile came to the 
top of the promotory where you nould see off for many miles. A 
little building is erected (here for shelter, and a couple of fellows 
come from across country and have some post cards (of course) and 
Irinkeis and champagne for sale. We wanted hot coffee more than 
chaanpajne and the shelter f the building felt, good, as a piercing 
cold gale was blowing. A monument bis also been erected here in 
honor of the visit of the German Emperor a couple years before, and 
the name of his yacht HohenzoIIern was painted high on the cliff by 
a couple of daring sailors. As it was near twelve o'clock when wie 
arrived it was light as day. but the sky was covered with clouds, and 
we were lamenting our fate that we would not see the midnight sun 
from the North Gape that so many had made the journey to see, but 
about 12.30 we were rewarded for our patience and travel by a break 
for only a few minutes in the clouds, and we saw the sun lo our 
great joy. 

We sailed from the North Gape about two in the morning. Those 
who remained on the boat during oujr trip to the top of the moun- 
tain went fishing and caught many fine salmon of which that bay a- 
bounds. 'The Government has granted a temporary post office dur- 
ing the summer at the North Cape so that cards can be mailed from 
the North Gape. It is the northern-most point of continental land in 
the world being located 71 .11' degrees North which is about the 
same latitude as the upper part of Greenland. 

We arrived at Lyngenseidt about six in the evening of the 20th. 
H is located on the pretty Lyngen fjord with its magnificent scenery, 
and we landed to visit the Lapp encampment that is located near 
there during the summer months with generally a very large herd of 
reindeer, but these we missed as they had not arrived as yet from 
Sweden, on account of the high waters and we saw only a couple of 
families of the Lapps living in their cone shaped huts made of the 
branches of trees and covered with sod and mud. 

Leaving here we passed Tromso a^ain early the next morning and 
sailing past the beautiful Raftsund mountain and its bay and toward 
evening went into the pretty but majestic Troldfjord. This cleft in 
the rocks was at one place but about fifty feet wide and our boat of 
thirty went in beween the mountains whose both sides rose straight 
up for about one thousand feet so that a loosened stone could conn 1 
down and hit the ship. The Captain said the water was hundreds of 
feet deep showing what a great split in the rock this was. After going 
into a small valley where some pretty waterfalls were seen, and lots 



164 

ffl mow,, the sliip was backed carefully around and got oust safely 

On Wednesday the 22nd we ag;ain reached Torghattan and this 
feime landed and climbed it. That evening at the dinner table I had 
at the suggestion of Mr. Robert Miller, agent of the line, gotten up sev- 
eral fake Marconi telegrams, the reading of which made some amuse 
ment all having answers attached and he turned a joke on me by read 
ing one onme. That evening none went to bed early an\d the weather 
being mild and the sun bright,, kept us until late on deck. 'This also 
being the lastnight on board Mr. Miller requested me to make the 
address at the Captain's dinner, though there were so many Norwe- 
gians on board, they nearly all understood English; so I did it in about 
a five minute talk, thanking the Qaptain' on behalf of the whole par- 
ty for his always genial companionship and the looking after the 
welfare of. his passengers and several things along those lines. Short 
talks were made by some of the others and the Captain. 

As the boat had had no certificates of crossing the Arctic Circle 
and nothing had been done in the way of making a celebration about 
it, I made the suggestion that something] should be done and at the re- 
quest of Miller, drew up a small design and certificate which was 
translated into Norwegian and duplicate copies made on a hectograph. 
We gave all the party sea names and made up some doggerel on each 
fitting the name and the one named, and that evening late the com- 
pany were assembled in the dining room, the Captain read out the 
name and presented the certificateWhich he had duly attested and seal 
ed; the doggerel, was read with the calling of the names creating con- 
siderable fun and amusement. We ailso had games on the deck of var- 
ious sorts, Capt. Arnet joining in tue fun and really leading it. Out- 
side of the cold we had a very pleasant and agreeable trip and all 
enjoyed it very much. 

We arrived at Trondjhem the ne.-d morning at seven and imme- 
diately took the train arriving at Christiana at 11 P. M., where I stay- 
ed for the night, and the next morning Friday the 24th I took the 
train for Copenhagen via Goteburg and Helsingborg, arriving at mid- 
night, at Copenhagen after a fine and interesting ride,, crossing two 
ferries during the trip. 




Hagenbeck's Arctic Exhibit at Hamburg 




Interior Marken, Holland Home Showing Beds in Wall with Children's 

Lower Down 



165 



CHAPITER XXVI. 
COPENHAGEN to LOlNDON via HOLLAND and PARIS. 

I was very much interested in Copenhagen and walked the city all 
day. I visited the fine Thorwaldsen Museum containing so many fir, e 
masterpieces by that brilliant sculptor as well as many valuable paint 
ifigs and other sculpture. It is a very prettily laid out city, and is 
clean and progressive and has an animated aspect to the tourist, and 
. • riah in many institutions of learning and science. There are 
several churches of fine architects ral beauty, and several valuable 
'-Hi. iions i n museums; but the Roseniyurg Castle, a family museum 
of the Oldenburg dynasty and is a remarkably picturesque building 
of the Elizabethan stylo, in filled inside with a rich collection of 
tries, furniture, jewels, plate and pictures and relics of all kinds 
Of that time and was to me the point of greatest interest, in the city. 

In the evening I visited the Tivoli, a fine concert garden and 
Coney Island as it were. It was still light until after ten o'clock 
here so that you could use a lot of time in seeing the oity. The mon- 
ey of Denmark as I said before, was the same as Norway and Swe- 
den. I left the next morning for Hamburg' on the ten thirty train 
and arrived there at 8;30 in the evening after another fine ride Gross- 
ing twto long ferries as before. This is a sturdy up to date Ger- 
man city and very interesting to travel about. The things that in- 
terested me most here was the famous Hagenback Animal Garden a 
large piace built up into natural scenery for animals. For instance 
the lions were seemingly out in the open walking around without the 
sight of any obstruction to keep them from coming to you, their 
den having a high rocky background inside of which were the inside 
dens or shelters. The real separation from the public was an un- 
seen ditch over which it was said they were afraid to try and leap, 
the sides being of unequal height but it gave you the shivers to 
have them out in the open and so close. One other striking thing 
of the many in this interesting park was what was called the North- 
land Panorama; the seals and walruses were below, right above where 
it looked as though they could come right over and get their natural 
food, the seals, were about fifteen fine specimens of the Polar bear, 
but there was also a deep unseen ditch between them and the seals, 
and further up the rocky panorama were a herd of reindeer, also 
out of harms way from the bear, but could not be seen. 

Thewhole ptace had the largest lot of fine specimens of the animal 
life as could be seen anywhere, and in these surroundings, was well 



f8$ 

worth a visit from, a long distance. There was afeo attached 1&. the 
park a wi'd west Indian show, seemed funny Lo see Indians in 
Europe. They gave wild west performances several times daily. The 
days stay in Hamburg was not so pleasant as it was raining most of the 
tirae, but I had to make use of the timeanyhow. 

I left Hamburg at three o'clock for Amtersdam in HoLland pass- 
ing through Osnabruck where I had to change oars, it was the day 
after the wrecking of the Zeppelin airship there, by a wind storm on 
a lull, it could be seen from the car windows. Arrived at Am- 
sterdam at 10;OO P. Mi The next morning as it was raining I rent- 
ed an umbrella and went over a good deal of the business portion o$ 
the city. Always having had an inclination to see some of the north. 
country of Holland, where the people with their quaint costumes and 
customs i.ome from, about ten o'clock I purchased a ticket for a trip 
to the Isle of Marken and the dead cities of the Zuyderzee. The ride 
included trips on a steam boat, motorboat. sailing boat, and house 
boat on the canal, as well as steam and electric trams* quite a variety 
of means of travel for one day. 

A guide was furnished and the total cost of the days traveling 
Was but three Guilders ($1.20). The towns visited are Nieuwen/Jam r 
Buiksloot, one of the oldest villages of Waterland, Broek, with its 
interesting old church and cheese factories and Monnikendam with its 
famous old belfry and clock. Here we Left the tram and took a motor 
boat for the ride across the Zuyder Zee to the Isle of Marken, it was 
very foggy and choppy and even that short ride made some uncom- 
fortable. Marken one of the most picturesque places left in the world' 
with the quaint houses hundreds of years old, with their beds look- 
ing like a cupboard in the wiall, up high for the older people and lit- 
tle cubby holes in under for the children and babies. The dress of 
the men with their peculiar woolen shirts and large baggy trousers, 
and wooden shoes and the women With their hair chopped short and 
covered with lace caps, their short tight waists and very large baggy 
skirts, wooden sabots and their peculiar gait made it all a picturesque 
sight, just like you, see in so manypamtingjs of Holland life. The 
children, you could not tell the boys from the girls until well grown, 
but some of the young girls had those prety bright healthy, high col 
ored, faces seen in many an artists sketch of that interesting country. 
Leaving Marken a few of the party risked a sail boat for the ride 
to Vollendam while some would notbeing too badly scared by the rough 
choppy sea. We had a great sail though sometimes the gunwhale 
was nearly under, but the expertness with which the fellow handled 
that large clumsy boat was wonderful, taking it right through a small 
entrance in the breakwater under full sail, and bringing it right up 
to the wharf with hardly a shock. At certain times the Island of 
Marken is wholly covered with' water, a high north wind and an in- 
coming tide raising the sea so that the people are often marooned m 
their houses for a couple of days, and sometimes on the roofs, the 
down stairs being afloat, this happens once or twice a year. They are 
all fishermen and many a life is lost througih their going out to sea 
in the open boats and getting caught in a storm. 

Vollendam is also a picturesque place, the little hotel there hav- 
ing many artist boarders nearly all the time, the walls of the house 
were covered with sketches given to the genial proprietor and his 



167 

family. The village is built on both sides of a huge dyke that keeps 
the sea from the land, which is a few feet lower and from which, the 
seepage and rain water is pumped out by windmills that stud the 
country so much. From Vollendam we took a v ery tiny house boat 
that a man pulled along, sometimes assisted by a sail, the small canal 
about eight feet wide, to the old village of Edam from where most 
of the famous cheese of that name comes, the canal is about three miles 
long and it took a little less than an hour to make the trip. The 
canals are very old as well as all the buildings, it is now one of the 
so called, dead cities of Holland, all the great commerce of former 
days having departed. From here the tram was taken to Monniken- 
dam and then retrace our ride to Amsterdam where we arrived about 
five o'clock well pleased with that picturesque little journey to anoth- 
er world as it seemed. 

On my arrival in Amsterdam the guide we had, had a brother 
who was a diamond cutter and he ,yave me a letter to him, and with 
directions I finally found the place and was very much interested in 
that work, they seem to be very expert in picking out the right places 
for the many cuts they have to make, and knowing the stones in the 
rough , they look to me like ordinary pebbles. It is a very tedious 
process. The roulgh stone is embodied in a soft metal, that has been 
heated to form a grip for the stone it is then fastened to an arm which 
allows the stone to rest on a rapidly revolving disc, on which oil and 
diamond dust are applied, this soongrinds a flat place on the rough 
stone called a facet, there are from thirty to forty facets on a diamond, 
and each time the stone has to be melted from the metal plug, and 
set so as to expose another surface to the wheel. Ome man will, operate 
from three to four discs, watching each carefully, as the least little 
cut too far would ruin the stone and it would have to be done all ovei 
again. They have to split an irregular stone to get something fit to 
cut for a perfectly formed diamond and there again care has to be used 
to get the proper cleavage so the splitting would not ruin it. 

The money of Holland is the Guilder or Florin, being given both 
names, it is divided up into one hundred cents; the Gulder is forty 
cents American money, making two and a half Holland cents equal to 
one cent American. 

Amsterdam is well interspersed with canals on which a great 
deal of freight is carried. It is a prosperous commercial city but 
nothing of great interest except the variety of leanings of the build- 
ings. The city being built on piles they often sink and one house will 
lean out over the street several feet and the next lean baek thus giv- 
ing an odd appearance to the street lines. 

Left at 9 the next morning for Brussels arriving at one o'clock and 
immediately went out to the World's Exposition that was being held 
there and I practically covered; ail of it by eight o'clock in the even- 
ing. It was much smaller than any of our American World's Fairs 
we have he(d, and the really only thing excelled in were the many fine 
display of women's dresses etc. The usual midway had some very good 
things. As I had been out to theBattlefield of Waterloo ten years 
before and had seen some of the principal buildings and galleries, I 
hunted up the Wirz gallery containing the works of that well known 
painter of the horrid that is about all you can say as nearly every pic- 



168 

ture gave you the shivers somethin g on the nature of Dante's Inferno. 
His depicture of expression of horror, and .kindred feelings were ex- 
ceptionally fine. The Animal part of the National; Museum was very 
good as well as the fossil exhibit. 

The main street of Brussels at night was very finely lighted and 
made a very pretty sight. The Palais de Justice is one of the finest 
buildings in the world. Everybody was on the big make on account of 
the Exposition. I left at noon for Paris arriving there at five. The 
customs at the French (border were very strict, and I saw them handle 
some peoples baggage pretty roughly. They are very watchful on to- 
bacco, perfumes, matches and liquors one is only allowed ten cigars. 
I saw them take one man's stuff and dump on the scales like a lot 
of ashes, cigars, tobacco, cigarettes all in one mess and charged him 
nearly four dollars duty and the whole lot was not worth more than 
than one dollar and fifty cents. Forty cents a match is the duty if 
you don't declare what you have and you are only allowed a broken 
box at that. 

The cigars and tobacco of the French manufacture are abomnia- 
ble and of course you pay a small fortune for a good American cigar. 
The best and cheapest cigars are found in Holland were good ones 
can be gotten for from one to threje cents each, and it is the only 
place in Europe where you can get them reasonable. There is lots to 
interest one in Paris in the life and many other things. I stayed a 
couple of days, went to some places I had been before and also some 
new ones walking around considerably and using the American Express 
rubber-neck wagon. A list of the points of interest would take up 
too much room, there are so many and can be gotten from any guide 
book. Tbe French unit of money is the franc worth about twenty 
cents, which is divided up into one hundred parts called centimes 
with the usual metal coinage. The Belgian money is also the same 
as France with the usual copper, nieikel and silver small coinage, but 
the nickel pieces were different from all other places, in that they 
had holes through the centre and in that way one could tell the 
same sized nickel and silver coins apart at once by the feel, which 
I thought a very good idea and could be well copied by the United 
States. My rough opinion was that Paris was living on its reputation 
and tourists catering entirely to them in every way. 

I left Paris on an express train for London vi a the Dover Calais 
route having traveled all the others before. Left Paris at ten o'clock 
arriving at London at five. We hada quick and interesting ride all 
through France, and took the boatat Calais which is a small side wheel 
er and then out across ways the channel makes it somewhat rough in 
nearly any kind of weather. A few were bothered, but this was an 
unusually calm day so most escaped by staying on deck, though a few 
was very glad to see the chalk cliffs on England hove in sight. The 
tide here has a rise and fall of about twenty feet, making a great 
variation in the landing places at the wharves. 



169 



CHAPTER XXYII. 
AROUND GREAT BRITAIN and HOME. 

London is good old London, intending at all times, and I will say 
but little about it; spent two days there before igping to Scotland, and 
about a week after returning from Ireland, enjoying every minute of 
it in the long walks, except when my feet played out. On Monday 
July the fourth I bought a ticket at Cooks or rather a bunch of tick- 
ets that took one, from London to Edinboro, Glasgow, Belfast and to 
the Giant's Causeway, down to Dublin across to Chester and Liver- 
pool and back to London for $24.80, a distance of about fifteen hundred 
miles. I left London on the night of the fourth at 9.30 renting a 
pillow at the station for sixpence (12 cts) and caught a compartment 
and stretched out and rested pretty well to Edinboro where we arrived 
a J seven the next morning, the pillow is just left on the train. 

I consider Edinboro one of the finest places to visit in Europe so 
much of interest it seemed to me and so muchvariety and very pict- 
uresque in every way. I also went out to the Forth Bridge on an 
auto, they have auto busses now. instead of six horse tallyho's, and 
make the trip much faster, around trip of about fifteen miles for a 
shilling. This bridge is a wonder of the world, nearly two miles long, 
and high in the air are steel tower piers that reach up into the sky 
nearly three hundred feet. The Castle where Mary Queen of Scots was 
confined at the one end of the old Edinboro with the surroundings on 
top of the hill, and there are interesting points all the way down from 
this hill along the ridge clear to the other end, where rests Holy 
rood palace the home of Mary, with the place partly preserved, and 
other parts in ruins, but containing many relics. 

Edinboro is a lively busy place and is clean and not so mercenary 
as is Glasgow. Having a letter of introduction from my friend Wat- 
kins of Hongkong 32 degree Mason to John Forest the Grand Secretary 
of the whole order in Scotland. I presented it and met a very esti- 
mable gentleman, lunched at the University Club with him. I had in- 
tended making the round trip through the Trossachs and Stirling Cas- 
tle to Glasgow, but by the poor service at the Hotel Carlton, missed 
my call and missed the train, so went direct to Glasgow, It is only 
one hours ride from Edinboro to Glasgow amd a few hours in Glas- 
gow is all that is necessary as there is little of interest except the 
shipbuilding and the commerce, and the principal part of the latter 
is the trying to extract shillings from your pockets. The things of in- 
terest are the Municipally owned privileges of all sorts which practi- 
cally pay all the taxes of the town and are run well at low rates. 

Having enough of Glasgow in a few hours, I left at 4 o'clock to 
Stranrear where you take the boat to Larne. the port for Belfast, a- 



170 

cross the North Channel of the Irish Sea. Though we were in the o- 
pen sea only about an hour and a half it was very rough, and nearly 
all the passengers were under the weather though it bothered me 
none whatever. The waves would strike the side of the boat and come 
clear up over it, and it had a twisting pitching motion that was a ter- 
ror to the weak ones. It is about an hours ride from Larne to Bel- 
fast by train, arrived at ten in the evening. 

Belfast is a greai city of industry, the enormous shipyards, the 
linen mills, and many other factories, employ a large number of 
people. It is typically Irish everywhere and there is nothing of in- 
terest except the industries. It is not a pretty town like Edinboro, and 
oeing level makes no pretty pictures I left the next morning for a 
seventy mile ride to Port Rush, the nearest railroad point to the 
Giant's Causeway which is about eight miles from Port Rush, and 
that distance had to be formerly done in the famous Irish jaunting 
ear the prince of back breakers, but now thank goodness, there is a 
nice little electric railway with good service. The Post office for 
the Giant's Causeway was Rush's Mills which interested me somewhat 
and is especially renowned for the fine Whiskey distillery it has there 
said to be the best in Ireland. I did not inquire to find if the pro- 
prietors were relatives. 

vThe scenery along the coast here is very beautiful the pictur- 
esque rock formation being of interest and the causeway itself which 
has to be walked over a distance, round trip from three miles to six 
if you wish to go all over it. The curious rock formation is as 
pictured, only the pillar effect is not as evenly made as the pict- 
ures seem to show it. It is evidently of volcanic origin and the hexa- 
gonal pillars were made and crystallized likely by the extreme pressure 
from the cooling of the lava. The pillar effect abounds along the 
coast at plaees for several miles. Iconsidered the journey worth while. 
I arrived back at Belfast at six and left at ten for Dublin arriving there 
at five in the morning. Dublin does not have much to interest the 
old traveler, so one does not stay long, and going down to Kingston, 
the port for Dublin, about five mile down took the boat for a ride of 
sixty miles to Holyhead to Wales. The ride was a fine one across 
the Irish sea, and the railroad ride through North Wales across the 
famous tubular bridge along the pretty Welsh coast was well worth the 
whole trip alone. I arrived in Chester at two in the afternoon and 
started out to visit this, the real living old city of England, where it 
is as it was four hundred years ago with the second story sidewalks, 
the old city walls just as intact as they were w!hen the several battles 
were fought outside its walls in the sixteenth century. The old arch- 
itecture still prevails and the many fine ruins all made it well worth 
the little time spent there, and I would advise by all means, every- 
body going to England to visit Chester. 

It is only a few miles from Liverpool to which I departed the 
next morning and where I stayed a few hours, walking over the town 
but the interesting things there is the magnificent dock system the 
finest in the world, and can be seen best by taking a round trip 
ticket on the elevated railroad that runs along the system for the whole 
distance. In the Mersey were the many big liners lying, and hundreds 
of large steamers were in drydocks along the wharf getting 



171 

their hulls scraped and- painted and cargo loaded and anlloaffed! at the 
same time^ 

Liverpool being purely a commercial 1 city has a museum and aa 
Art Gallery that are very good, butthere is- nothing mo?e of cna.1 in- 
terest. I left at two for London arriving at six o'clock, and Venting 
a room, took my time going around London* to wait for fine sail- 
ing of the Kaiser Augusta Victoria on the fifteenth of July, and real- 
ly to tell the truth getting anxious for it too. I met a good many of 
the Cleveland people during my trip around London and renewed ac- 
quaintances that had been broken for a few months. Visited all the 
theatres, with the assistance of the credentials of the Dramatic Mir- 
ror of New York, of which 1 have heen the correspondent so long. I 
walked miles and miles daily and enjoyed it, visited" one old tavern 
that was said to have been there as a tavern for six hundred years*. 
I also visited the Japan British Exposition out at Shepherd's Bush, 
but it was not so interesting to meas it might have been had I no is, 
just came from Japan, but it brought back many recollections with the 
familiar scenes etc. 

The underground system in London is the best in the world, is 
well handled and you can go nearlyanyplace. The bus system is still 
as congested as ever and slow. Hanson taxi's are reasonable an«? 
take you nearly anyplace quickly. 

The money of Great Britain is nearly as bad as that of Turkey. 
The unit is the pound worth about $4.85 divided into 20 shillings whieh 
generally goes for a quarter in American money and that is divided 
into 12 pennies or pence, worth t-'^o eents each, a penny being two 
cents of our money. There are large copper pieces larger than opi- 
oid two cent pieces were, and it does not take much to load you up, 
as everybody expects the tip but the penny will do for the most of 
them. They have the funny fashion of saying thank you when fchey 
ask you the question or answer it. For instance one would say 
"How much is that, thank you". You ask the policeman where some 
place is and he would say "Down three blocks and turn to your right' 
thank you"; and by the way the English bobby is the king of them 
all. He seems to know everything and is obliging and polite. But 
to @»o back to the money with the "tuppence Sir" and the 'Thrippeneo 
and the 'saxpence' and the two and halfpenny "a bob sir"' a v arf 
crown" and many others I have practially forgotten puts you at sea 
worse than crossing the channel. Then the various pieces are many 
and nearly every piece named different, many looking alike from the 
different coinage,; bewilders one for some little time, a florin is 2 
shillings while a half crown is two and a half shillings, and very near- 
ly same size and only those names on the pieces. 

The morning of the fifteenth dawned and made my heart beat 
faster, and getting a cab went around after my sister Mrs. E. H. B. 
Callaway, who had arrived in London a few days before from a trip 
through Europe, after leaving the Cleveland at Naples, and drove gay- 
ly away to Waterloo Station to take the nine o'clock train for South- 
ampton where we took the steamer for home. On the platform wait- 
ing for the boat train were many of the Cleveianders and much hand- 
shaking was indulged in. 

We arrived at Southampton about 1 o'clock and shortly after took 



172 

the tender and went out to Kaiserin Agusta Victoria homeward bound 
after six months of a strenuous life. The vessel was much larger 
than the Cleveland being 720 feet long and was one that brought Mr. 
Roosevelt home in the trip before this one when there were also 160 
of the Cleveland Globe trotters on it. Being acquainted with so 
many of the passengers in advance, of the Cleveland people returning 
there being 72 of the Cleveland tourists on board, made it much more 
pleasant and the most of us obtaining tables in one corner of the 
dining room it was a sort of a reunion. 

As the Captain, Mr. Ruser, was very obliging and offering to 
do anything he could to make our trip pleasant, I had notices printed 
calling a meeting of the Cleveland people and nearly all turned up, 
Prof. Trueblood was selected chairman and we held three different 
sociable meetings a sort of a Travellers Club, in which the thanks of 
all were due principally to our worthy Professor, for the recitations, 
and stories told by him. 

I had at my table besides my sister and myself Mr. and Mrs. John 
Dnrris of Huntingdon, Pa., and Mr. and Mrs. Hamilton Humes of Jer- 
sey Shore, Pa. On Monday night the eighteenth we had a dance on 
deck which all enjoyed very much. Outside of our meetings, Bridge 
and the Auction pools in the smoking room put in the evenings, and 
the run seemed short after our three months on the Cleveland, the 
daily runs were from 425 to 445 miles per day. We arrived in New 
York bay early in the morning and was interested in watching the 
steerage get through the quarantine. I forgot to mention several of 
the Cleveland stewards were on the ship and seemed glad to see us as 
also was our second officer Herr Blume, who Was the second officer 
of the Kaiserin. The steerage had some wags among them and they 
got up an improvised band that drew coins from the first class passen- 
gers above and much fun was had, seeing the scrambling for coins by 
the children, until a stop had to be put to it by the officers as they 
were hurting themselves. 

The worry and thought uppermost in everybodys mind was the cus- 
toms and what would be done with them. I had filled my blanks that 
were give me out with as much as they would hold and the rest 
miscellaneous.making a total of about $85.00 (you are allowed $100.00 
but did not put in some of the cheap suits bought in the warm climates, 
after considerable trouble I got my baggage together on the pier, the 
steward having taken one piece to the wrong place. I was lucky in 
happening to draw a genial inspector and about five minutes was all 
it took to go through my four pieces and I was soon on my way rejoic- 
ing, thoughsome others seemed to be having auite a time the way 
their things were being thrown around the wharf. 

We were a little slow getting into our dock as we had to wait for 
the Cleveland to come out and turn down the river, on her trip to 
Europe. Of course there was much waving from us, and cries of 
Banzai seeming to bring hats and handkerchiefs into motion, though 
the Cleveland was some distance away. The Goddess of Liberty look- 
ed like a very fine lady and made our hearts beat some. It was not 
quite so bad as one fellow I met in Venice who was having all kinds 
of trouble and heartily sick of Europe and was making a bee line for 
the States though he had only been over a couple of weeks. He said: 
"my but wont that dear old Statue of Liberty look good to me, I could 



173 

just giveher a g<ood hug and a kiss" a pretty big job. New, York was 
sweltering and I soon got away from there to Philadelphia and home 
after being away for 190 days and 1 certainly had traveled some. I 
figure it up at something over foriy thousand miles. And finally 1 
would be glad to take it all over, same crowd, ship and all, the lit- 
tle discomforts that went with it are forgotten, nothing remains but 
the thoughts you wish to remember and the good friendships that were 
made and wont soon be forgotten. 



174 

THE RYME. OF TJHERUSHING EIGS WE RODE, 
By Albert Murdoch. 

Twas on the good ship Cleveand, 
We certainly were whirled 
From Frisco's Bay to John Bull's Isle, 
We sailed aroujnd the world, 

From North and South, from East and West,* 
From nearly every state, 
We rushed by boat, we rushed by train, 
To reach the Golden Gate. 

Into the great mysterious East,, 
We sailed for many a day; 

Long dreary days they were to some, 

Who fed the fishes on the way. 

With whirling feelings and wistful gaze,,, 
They looked into the deep; 
Then hurriedly they stole below 1 , 
Saying they needed sleep. 

After what seemed a year or more, 
We reached Hawaiian' Isles, 
Those faces that were blanched with woe, 
Were now wreathed into smiles. 

But my story long delayed, 

Of rigs we rode each place; 

I now must tell, for each rig helped,. 

In our mad and rushing race. 

Our first, in Honolulu Fair, 
To Pali we did reel, 
To Walkiki, and Diamond Head* 
In an automobile. 

Now, some had weary days of woe. 
In that lonely ocean run; 
Others had days of kee n delight,. 
Of sunshins and of fun. 

But all Were up that morning fine,. 
When first Japan we saw; 
From Fuji's base we whirled away,. 
Each in a jinrikisha. 

Then in Hong Kong, great England's pride* 

Sedate and stiff and fair; 

We made our calls on friends we knew, 

In a stately sedan chair. 

In Uncle Sam's Manila town, 
We docked one sunny, sultry <?ay; 
And were hustled off by kith and kin* 
In carromate and calesa. 

-rom the "Wild man of Borneo-', 
We found it hard to part, 
And ere we did, some rode with glee,. 
In his famous bullock cart. 

In Batavia and Buitenzorg, 

Though only for a block or so; j, 



175 

We climbed with our unseemingly haste, 
Into a dos-a-dos. 

To another proud and lordly town, 
We did with awe approach; 
In English Singapore, with haste, 
We rushed into a hacKney coach. 

Then on to Burma, to fair Kan,goon, 
We still kept up our hurry; 
To see the elephant and Shwe Dagon, 
We rushed into a gherry. 

Again we must our manners mend. 
Though not in silk and gioria. 
For in Calci^tta's regal streets 
We rode in a Victoria. 

On a high Himalayan ridge, 
To make it safe and handy, 
For those who would not ride a horse 
Was a coffin fashioned dan<jy. 

The Maharaja of Benares, 

So proud and so gallant; 
Gave us his royal leave to ride, 
Upon his elephant. 

We crossed the burning plains of Hindus 
In Clark's fast train de luxe, 
And passed through many a famous scene. 
We have read of in our books. 

In fair Bombay so rich and proud, 

t.xui many an English home; 

We tried to quell our whirl ng haste. 
And settle in a brougham. 

Ov'r Egypt's hot and burning sands, 
Mid screams of human monkeys. 
We rode from Pyramids to Sphinx, 
On camels and on donkeys. 

Queenly Naples smiled on us. 
Sweetly singing Good-a-day," 
"Come quickly to my shops to buy. 
In my new washed vettura." 

In Gibraltar, grim and strong. 
We stopped one balmy day, 
And rode around the sights to see, 
In an old Spanish shay. 

In London town, mid smoke and fog, 
A cabby us did nab; 
And rush pell-men to our hotel, 
In his best handsome cab. 

Then in many an ocean steamer fast 
The greyhounds of the sea, 
We'll hurry home with all their speed, 
Our loved ones there to see. 

In North and South, East and West, 
From Old New York to many a State, 
WeMl ru£h in fastest Pullman trains. 
To our homes we love the best. 



176 



THE CHARGE OF THE ONE HUNDRED. 



When we, Canton would see, 

Hold Pioneers to be, 

Heard we with doubtful glee, 

Forward the one hundred! 

At. four o'clock we woke, 

From Morpheus' chains, we broke, 

From tender on to boat, 

Marched the one hundred. 

Up through the mist so gray, 
Longing for break of day, 
Chanting) a doleful lay, 
Rode the one hundred, 
"Weak hearts grew cold with dread, 
isir-ong men shook their head 
But where our good guide led, 
Followed the one hundred. 

Up past the tiger isle, 
"Wearing in heroic style 
One sickly, ghastly smile, 
Sailed the one hundred. 
Their's not to reason why, 
Their' s not to make reply, 
Their's but to go and die 
Noble one hundred. 

Close to the wharf they drew, 
Over, the rope they threw, 
Upward petitions flew, 
Prayers of the one hundred. 
Into the face of foe, 
Onto the streets they go, 
Fearinpi that blood will flow, 
Moved the one hundred. 

Into the sedan chair, 
Following the long, black hair, 
Clark having paid the fare, 
Rode the one hundred. 
Chinese to the right of them, 
Chinese to the left of them, 
Chinese all eying them, 
Went the one hundred. 

Over the slippery stones, 
Midst clang of growling tones, 
Anticipating broken bones, 
Dashed the one hundred. 
Into the narrow srteet, 
Daring the frowns they meet, 
Way offering no retreat, 
Rode the one hundred. 



Eyes set with rigid stare, 
Not looking anywhere, 
"Set seeing sabres glare, 
Went the one hundred. 
Up to the city wall, 
Into the genii's hall, 
Past Women's feet so small, 
Nobie one hundred. 

Back from the city's dead, 
Scarce hearing what was said, 
Content at being led, 
Not all the one hundredg. 
Ten of the gallant crew, 
Those cruel tyrants slew, 
Into the streams they threw, 
Some of the one hundred. 

When at the close of day. 
Slowly wenaing their way, 
Far from their corps astray, 
Came ten of the one hundred. 
Too late to catch the boat, 
Chanting a solem note, 
Restored from the deadly moat, 
Brave ten of the hundred. 

O, fortune good and kind, 
Another boat they find. 
Leaving the hosts behind, 
Rush ten of the hundred. 
Fate robbed of glory fair, 
Gave hope for deep despair, 
Slew there the dread night-mare, 
For ten of the hundred. 

So, on the Cleveland's deck, 
Saved from a dreadful wreck, 
Restored limb and neck, 
Stood the one hundred. 
Now, they, the story tell, 
How into the jawis of Hell, 
Intrepidly and well, 
Rode the one hundred. 



177 



PERSONALS. 

Dr. William C. Richardson of Tampa, Florida, was a delightful talker at the 
Traveler's Club meeting's being a humorist as well as entertaining. 

Mr. F.J . Howell of Hamilton, Ontario Can., and W. E. Jones of Chicago, 
the 33rd degree Masons on the tour, the latter holding his patent from the Su- 
preme Council of Mexico, signed by Pres. Diaz. 

M r - E. C. Brown was quite a talentedamatuer in the photographic line ob- 
taining many fine views of the subjects that he turned his camera toward with 
so much care. He is a prominent pump ru&nvfacturer of Rochester, N. Y. 

Mr. W. J. Dobson of Calgary, Canada familiarly known as "Calgary" v. a : 
quite c.n assistant to the ladies in the/moto line, and in other ways. He did 
not make a good start but later acquired more proficiency in the former art. 

"Jack" Lederer of Balto., whoalways had a jolly greeting and a jolly 
time, had a few serious moments when he was left with the party of nine la- 
dies at Canton. His large shadow was a minus quantity durinp the time of 
the ceremonies of crossing the Equator. 

M,rs. Antoinette F. Beiger of Portland, Ore., gave a very pleasant and inter- 
esting talk, and showed many of the curios she had obtained in Japan, 
a previous visit before our arrival in that interesting country, and gave m: 
pointers that were of help. Mr. Frizzellat the same time a'.Ko gave a short 
talk of his former experiences in the sr„me country. 

Miss Marjorie Hubbard of Hartford Conn., one of the belies of the cruise 
has changed her last name to Hawley since coming home and still resides in 
Hartford. 

Miss Maude Miller of Salt Lake City has also taken unto herself a better- 
half and now her last name is Taylor and they are living in San Francisco 

Mr. Charles D. Clark of Peoria, 111., has been lecturing on the tour, around 
through Illinois to a o^odly extent, pleasing large audiences. 

Mr. Lafayette Hanchett of Salt Lake city is the general Manager or" t . 
Samuel vN'ewhouse mining properties comprising several famous mines. 

Judge Bartlett Tripp of South Dakota was a former Minister to Austria un- 
der Cleveland. He was a fluent talker. 

Prof. Thomas Trueblood of the University of Michigan, who is professor 
of Elocution and Oratory there, often pleased the tourists with his many ex- 
cellent recitations of stories and plays. 

Miss Adele M. Parchen was posessed of a very fine voice, and added great- 
ly to the entertainment of the cruisers by her beautiful singing. 

The many popular young belles on the vessel offtimes wrought havoc v. it' 
the hearts of some of the young men at various ports at which we stopped, sev- 
eral times giving them some narrow escapes from being carried off with us. 

Mrs. William H. King of Rockford, II., . was a very entertaining talker and 
greatly interested as an amatuer pneu grapher. She gave several interesting 
talks at the Travellers Club meetings. 

Mi Paul S. Junkin of Creston, Iowa, wjrote a series of letters to his 
home papers descriptive of what he saw, which was afterwards published in 



178 

book form. They were well written and give good descriptions of those ob- 
jects of interest, and of the impressions conveyed to his mind by many 
things seen and met with during the journey. 

Mr. L. A. Sherman who has held several offices under Uncle Sam, was 
one of the poets of the cruise, of whom there were several, He could 
not get over his curiosity the day the equator was crossed, but had to see 
the fun that was going on, and thereby received a very good ducking. 

Mr. T. A. Snider of Cincinnati, Ohio, is the well known "Snider Catsup" 
milionaire. 

The old adage that matches were made to heaven may be all right, but there 
were a good many tried to be made on the Cleveland, the future success of 
which as a Whole is still unknown. 

Mr. C. W. Burgess of San Francisco, was a Commissioner from the state 
of California in the interests of the Panama Exhibition to be held there in 

Prof. G. H. Perkins is a well known geologist and holds the chair in that 
science in the University of Vermont. He was very much interested as an 
amatuer photographer and gave some good talks to the camera club. 

Dr. William F. King, who even at his advanced age enjoyed the journey 
very much, is the oldest College President in the Uniteu States in point of ser 
vicehaving been President of Cornell Cdllege, Iowa, for more than forty years. 

Dr. G. A. Van Wagenan of Newark, w bo gave several instructive talks to 
the CameraClub and is quite an expert amatuer, is the head Medical Director 
of the large Mutual Benefit Life insurance Co., of Newark, N. J. 

Dr. Edwin H. VanPatten of Dayton, Wash., was a good instructor in the 
Camera Club as well as a /apod talker at the Travellers Club meeting. 

Mr. Chas. Koster of New York, wasQuite a clever cartoonist exhibiting 
considerable art in the line. He is a prominent decorator of that City and 
on the trip was a commissioner from New York in the interest of the proposed 
1913 World's Fair. 

Mr. Lyman H. Bagg of New York, is somethingof a writer, much of his 
work being written in the bicycling magazines of old, under the non de plume 
of "Karl Kron." 

Mrs. Elizabeth H. B. Callaway was the necromancer of the tour. • Her abil- 
ity at telling fortunes with cards and reading the palm delighting; many of 
the younger ladies, and the middle aged widowers. 

Mrs. Sarah L. Dorn, the one passenger who was on the Eastward voyage 
and liked it so well, turned right around and went back on the Westward Cruise 
and seemed to enjoy it as well if not more, than the first time. 

Mr. Harold H. Herschberger formerly of Peoria who accompanied his aged 
Uncle andAunt, Mir. and Mrs. Thos. Petherbridge is now a resident of Minne- 
apolis. His ability as a stenographer and typewriter was of great assistance 
to many on the ship. 

Mrs. William J. Mooney who lost her husband on, and who was one of 
the surviving passengers of the ill fated Republic, has again taken a husband 
by the name of Mr. Dewfttt C. Frazier, and is residing at Spring Lake Beach, 
New Jersey. 

Mr. Hart Whitmore of La Porte, Ind who was both deaf and dumb, was un- 
usually bright and good natured, and thoroughly enjoyed the trip despite 
these disadvantages. 

Mr. James Carlton Young the famous bibliophile of Minneapolis was very 
active, and enjoyed seeing everything His main hobby is the collecting of 
autographed works and manuscripts of well known writers, he posesses the lar- 
gest library of the kind in the world. 

Mr. Milton McCrea of Detroit, Mich., is one of the owners of the former 
Scripps McCrea News Bureau, now the United Press Company. 

Mr. Charles D. Clark of Peoria, 111 who took a prominent part in doings on 
the ship is a well known wholesale Hardware merchant of his home town. 

Hon. William G. Frizzell of Dayton, Ohio is a lawyer and ex-member of 
the legislature of Ohio. He had writtena couple of books before the one of this 
cruise on his travels. 



179 

Rev. John W. Phillips of Binghampton . Nlisa pastor of a church i n that city 
and was one of the most delightful speakiers on the cruise. 

Mr. John T. Withers of Jersey City N - J->who delivered the interesting illus- 
trated lecture on Trees is a well known landscape architect, and has favored 
many of the cruisers since returning home with illustrated lectures of the 
tour and on the "City Beautiful.'' 

Rev. Thos. Uzzell of Denver, Col. who died since returning home, and who 
is sincerely mourned by all, was a force ful and interesting talker, and always 
drew large audiences. 

Mr. James Mellon of Pittsburg, Pa., almost entirely recovered his health dur- 
ing the tour and became a very strenuous amatuer photographer. 

B. S. McLure of Wheeling, W. Va., was the wag of the vessel, hardly a 
day passing that he did not spring something new in the joke or trick line. 

Mrs. Ella Knowles Haskell of Butte.Mont., was the first woman attorney in 
that state. She has passed to the great beyond since returning home. 



NOTES. 

The rate of speed of the Jap trainsis somewhat limited, as the Japs like 
to get asmuch for their money as possible and they objected very much to 
paying excess fare on faster trains, because they said it should be the other 
way, a less fare as it took less time to make the distance. 

There are only 6800 foreigners in the whole of Japan. Yokohoma ond Kobe 
containing all but eight hundred of those while the population of the Island 
numbers fifty-one million. 

The reason the Japanese get so much out of the land and use it for so 
long, they put back on the earth what they take from it, while in ouf coun- 
try we rob the land to pollute the rivers and lakes and pay a heavy tribute in 
typhoid fever victims in support of our theory and practice. We have four ty- 
phoid fever victims to Japan's one for the same ratio of population, so that 
we have lots to learn from the Japs in working with nature instead of rob- 
bing her. Instead of sending missionaries to Japan to show them how to live 
we will soon have to import missionaries from there to teach us how to hang 
on and live. 

The Jap ricksha boy in some respects is somewhat of an improvement on 
the horse. As one traveler said "there are many cases on record of this 'horse 
looking up his master taking him home and putting him to bed." You don't 
(have to steer him, tell him where to go and he goes with a vengeance some- 
times. Where would you, find a horse that looks over his shoulder and calls 
out to you the various points of interest as you pass. 

In Canton I heard of one record where the executioner cut off the heads 
of fourteen Chinese in exactly one and a half minutes. For quickness of dis- 
patch I think this is about record. The Chinese newspapers make a mention of 
this execution and the whole thing occupied about two and one-half inches of 
space. In Xew York, most of the time, one execution would occupy half of a 
page. I like the Chinese method of publicity much better. It cost 11 cents a 
head for the Chinese execution., and needed no doctors to feel their pulse to 
see if they were dead. 

It is said that the Philipinos have about 465 fiesta days all over the Islands, 
and only 365 days to do it in, so that it generally keeps them pretty busy work- 
ing overtime. 

The Shwe Dagon Pagoda is being covered with Gold plates which are made 
of English Sovereigns, that are hammered on an anvils into squares about four 
by four inches making a square foot cost about forty-three dollars in gold, 
and it is calculated it will cost about five millions to cover the whole struct- 
ure. It is said that it is not an uncommon sight to see a pilgrim who has jour- 
neyed hundred of miles with not fifty cents worth of clothes on him pull out 
from them, from two to three hundred nupees to pay for gold to cover it. 



180 

Hirst's is the one place for curios in Rangoon, and it seems to be the 
only place on the eastern side of the earth where there is one price, and no 
selling on Sunday. He is a fine specimen of an old Englishman and has 
built up his business until he has become famous by square dealing and a 
t onscience. 

The Cedars of Lebanon are very closely guarded and there are only a- 
bou.t two hundred left of tnose famous trees which one time covered the side 
of the Syrian mountains, There were justly celebrated for being so tall and beau- 
tiful and so far superior to any other trees of Palestine. The wood is rather 
soft and of lanoe grain with a delightful Oder of cedar. They are called by 
the Arabs the "Tree of God". Some of the trees in the grove are fifteen hun- 
dred years old, about one hundred feet high and fifty feet in circumference. 
They resemble somewhat the majestic oak of this country more than any of 
the cedar family. 

The Pool of Bethesda, is located near the Greek Catholic Church of 
St. Anne in Jerusalem, and under the protection of the French; the story of 
Christ at the Pool, is related in sixty- two languages, posted in frames around 
the Chapel. 

The pilgrimages to Jerusalem are made in large parties often numbering 
from five to eight hundred drawn from different parts of Europe, often at one 
time all from one locality. They are taken care of by different hospices that 
are there under the auspices of the various countries of Europe. 

The committee in charge of raising a fund for a memorial tablet to be 
erected by the Cleveland tourists to thememory of Rev. Thos. Uzzell have got 
ten together a sum nearly sufficient forthe purpose. 

The reunion held in Newi York on Dec. 8,was a fine success, abouit nine- 
ty beuv.i present, and the letters and talks were very much enjoyed, it was 
unanimously voted to make it an annual affair and a committee was named with 
Mr. W. J. a ale as Secretary to plan forsimilar reunions every year, to be 
held in .November or December. 

Through the efforts of Mr. Charles D. Clark a reunion was held in Chica- 
go on March 2, at which twenty-four Clevelander's were present. It was al- 
so a success, and is planned to have themannually. There would have been 
more present, had a longer notice been given, but the time was rather short, 
for many to make the necessary arrangements. 

The fallowing resolutions were adopted at the last Travellers Club meeting 
held on the Cleveland, which the experience of the tourists had shown without a 
doubt something was necessary to be done to make a citizen of the U. S. not 
ashamed of their country on the open seas. 

TO THE SENATE AND HOUSE OP REPRESENTATIVES OF THE UNITED 
STATES OF AMERICA, WASHINGTON D. C. 

WHEREAS, The undersigned committee, representing the 750 American tour- 
ists on the Clark's 1910 Westward Cruise Around the World, deeply deplore the 
absence of American vessels on the high seas during the entire cruise, 
which conditions we greatly regret on account of the large and growing com- 
mercial interests of our manufacturers and merchants in all parts of theworld, 
therefore, be it 

RESOLVED, That we unamimously recommend and petition Congress to de- 
vise some means by which this unfortunate condition of affairs may be reme- 
died and that a representation of American ships in all foreign waters, com- 
mensurate with oujt mercantile and commercial interests, may be fhe result of 
your legislation. 

C. J. A. Ericson, Iowa. 
F. H. Wellcome, Minn. 
C. W. Kaley, Nebraska. 
W. D. Steele, Missouri. 
, Henry J. Stephens, Colorado. 

Edwin O. Eshelby, Ohio. 
Charles D. Clark, 111. i 

Committee. 



181 



ROSTER OF D. A. R. CHAPTER. 

Membership of the Association of the Daughters of the American dev- 
olution. Clark's 1910 Cruise Around the world. Honorary officers: Mrs. James 
R. Mellon, Ex-Vice-Pres. Gen. Mrs. Harriet Gould Geffries. Hon. State Regent 
of Georgia. 

ACTING OFFICERS. 

Regent, Mrs. James D. Penn. 1st Vice Regent Mrs. Geo. McDuffee, 2nd 
Vice Regent, Mrs. Clinton C. MoNich als. Rec. Sec. Annie H. Patteson. 
Cor. Sec. Mrs. Sanford Gardner, Treas. Mrs. B. F. Martin, Historian, Mrs. 
Frank Kellogg. 



Mrs. Emma Coryell Ayers, 

Mrs. Mary Slocum Butler Ayers, 

Mrs. W. H. Blee, 

Mrs. Sarah R. Boher, 

Mrs. Elizabeth H. B. Callaway, 

Mrs. Clara M. Sherman Childs, 

Mrs. Effie C. Currier, 

Mrs. Ellen P. Crumb, 

Mrs. John Clement Cheney, 

Mrs. Frank C. Clark, 

Mrs. Caroline C. Choate, 

Mrs. Sarah E. Fisher, 

Mrs. Ellen Hammond Gladwjin, 

Miss Ida V. Goodali, 

Mrs. Frances E. Herring, 

Miss Ella Knowies Haskell, 

Mrs. Sarah D. Howard, 

Mrs. Charles E. xiussey, 

Mrs. Charles H. Koster, 

Mjiss Lizzie Moulton Kneeland, 

M|iss Mary Lawton, 

Mrs. Agnes M. Lowrle, 



MEMBERS. 

Mrs. Warren D. Maxey, 
Mrs. Lonise D. Miller, 
Mrs. William H. Moseley, 
Mrs. Lottie E. Morris, 
Mrs. Nora E. Miller, 
Mrs. Thomas P. Nelson, 
Mrs. Clara M. O'Neil, 
Miss Ellen Parker, 
Mrs. Emma Parker, 
Miss Sue W. Poullain, 
Miss Mary E. Root, 
Mrs. Henry B. Rodgers, 
Mrs. Estella C. Sherman, 
Miss Cathleen Sherman, 
Mrs. John M. Schaupp, 
Mrs. Edwin Terry, 
Miss Anna Twiggs Taylor, 
Miss Susan A. Wentworth, 
Miss Anna Wallace, 
Miss Mary E. Wilcox, 
Mrs. W. H. Whyte. 
Mrs. William T. Yale. 



HONORARY MEMBERS. 

Society of the Cincinnati, 
Col. Edward R. Rodgers, William D. St eele, Alden Freeman, S. R., S. A. R 

Sons of the American Revolution. 

Capt. I. M. Andrews, Geo. T. Bush, William W. Reilley. 



NECROLOGY. 



The following names of the members of the Westward Cruise have made 
their last tour to the Great Beyond from whose bourne no travellers ever re- 
turn. 



John W. Good, John H. Elliot, Sen. Chas. J. Ericson, Mr. Charles M. Bur- 
nett, Mrs Ella K. Haskell, Mrs. R. H. E. Sage, Mr. E. M. Holbrook, Mrs. J. B. 
Malarkey, Mrs. R. W. Swan, Miss MaryE. Wilcox, Rev. Thos. Uzzell. 



182 



Draft of resolutions on death of Noble John Good, it also being list of the 
members of the Ancient Order Nobles of the Miystic Shrine on board the S. 
S. Cleveland. 

Off Bombay, April 22nd, 1910. 

We, the members of the Ancient Order Nobles of the Mystic Shrine, 
on board the S. S. Cleveland on the Westward trip of Clark's Cruise Around 
the world, in meeting assembled do hereby unanimously resolve that — 

WHEREAS, Almighty God, in his Divine Providence, has removed from us 
our beloved Noble John W. Good, of Kaba Temple, Davenport, la., there 
fore be it, 

RESOLVED, That we extend to his family and his brother nobles of 
Kaba Temple our heartfelt sympathy in their great bereavement that has 
fallen on them. 



NAME 

W. H. iReilly, Pres. 
Fred H. Ward, 
C. W. Burgess, 
Albert D. Parchen, 
Thos. A. Uzzle, 
M. B. Rosenbaum, 
S. G. A. Brown, 
Thomas Brown, 
Jos, L. Carman, 
J. T. Ashworth, 
F. M. Lee, 
C. H. Koster, 
W. V. Rice, 
W. E. Sapp, 
Chas. Morris, 
H. Ml. Parchen, 
Wm, A. Jones, 
C. J. Hood, 
A. O. White, 
Chas. W. Kaley, 
A. H. Spicer, 
Othello A. Fay, 
David B. Watson, 
C. T. Bridgeman, 
Frank C. Clark, 
Tkos. Graham, 
W. T. Davies, 
Herman H. Wiendieck, 
E. D. Hammond, 
Ira D. Smith, 
Hamilton B. Humes, 
R. J. R. Aden, 
Henry K. Werner, 
Tho*. P. Nelson, 
John K. Crosswell, 
fid win H. Van Patten, 
Raphael Herman, 
Theron H. Huckins, 
Clayton H. Case, 
Win. A. Nelson, 
W. F. Poweil, 
Geo. Woiters, 
Harry J. Aden, 
Wm. McBride, 
E. V. Chapman, 
Herbert C. Hinds, 
J. W. Phillips, 



TEMPLE. 

Ismalia 

Aleppo 

Islam 

Algeria 

El Jebel 

Acca 

Zembo 

Moolah 

Afifi 

Zagazig 

Kerak 

Mecca 

El Kalah 

Medinah 

Zagazig 

Algeria 

Medinah 

Kerak 

Saladin 

Sesostris 

Palestine 

Aleppo 

Syiia 

El Khurafeh. 

Mecca 

Almas 

Ahniik 

Isiam 

El Kalah 

Morocco 

Ireni 

Islam 

Syria 

Mohammed 

Orrr-ar 

El Katif 

Moslem 

Bactash. 

Sphinx 

Pyramid 

Jaffa 

Islam 

Jslam 

Khartum 

r siam 

Cyprus 

Oriental. 



GEO. T. BUSH, Jaffa, Sec. 



Bellefonte, Pa. 



183 



NAMES AND ADDRESSES 

OF 
MEMBERS OF THE CRUISE. 



Those marked with an * were members of the Clark's Cruise Camera Club. 

Capt. Remmer, J. R. Aden, San Fran- *Miss Mareta V. Black, Elgin, 111. 

cisco, Cal. Mrs. Franc E. Blackmer, Albert i^ea, 

Mr. H. J. Aden, San Francisco, Cal. Minnesota. 

Mr. Charles Ahrens, Louisville, Ky. Miss Myrta Blaine, Sheldrake, N. Y. 
Capt. J. M. Andrews, New Yark. Mr. and Mrs. W. H. Blee, Springfield, 

Mr. J. T. Ashworth, Des Moines, Iowa. Ohio. 

Mr. C. H. ashworth, Des Moines, Iowa. Mr. and Mrs. J. R. Boait, Dayton, Ohio. 
Mrs. Emma L. C. Ayres. Bound Brook, Mr. Howard S. BonsaH, Denver, Colo. 

New Jersey. Mr. and Mrs. John E. Boher, Shippens- 

Mrs. E. B. Ayers, Wilkesbarre, Penn- burg". Pa. 

sylvania. * Mr. E. C. Brown, Rochester, N. Y. 

Mrs. Louis Bradford, Omaha, Neb. 
Mr. Robert Bradford, Omaha, Neb. 
Mr. Lyman A. Bagg, New lork. C]yde E _ Brent0 n, Dai- 

Mr. and Mrs. Ira J. Baker, Washington. -^ Centre Iowa 

Mrs. Emma L. Baird, Kansas City, Mo. A delyn Brickley, San Francisco. 

Mr. Albert M. Baldwin, Cooperstown, ^ Q p Bri dgeman, Flint, Michigan. 

North Dakota. , M - Alice M. Brooks, Ben Lomond, 

* Miss Mary Cordelia Barrett, Sacra- - California. 

mento, Cal. M g _ Q A Brown, Ship- 

* Mr. and Mrs. W. S. Bartlett, Los 

Angers, Cal. M( , Thorrjas Brown, St. Louis, Mo. 

Miss Bartlett, Los Angeles, Cal. ^ rg Cbarles T Brus h, Xew York. 

Mr. Gordon Bartlett, Los Angeles, Cal — Anna c Brugh> Keyj York 
Dr. and Mrs. Francis S. Bascom, Salt t ^ Carl A BUg . gej B uriington, N. D. 

Dake City, Utah. Mr an<J Mrs ' c ^ Burgess, San Fran- 

Marter F. S. Bascoom, Jr., Salt La^.e ' ciscQ( Cal 

City, Utah. ^ rr g Bur gess, Magnolia, Va. 

Mrs. Anna A. Becker, St. Louis, Mo. y ^ -waiter Burkett, Philadelphia, pa. 
Mrs. Antionette F. Beiger, Portland, - - g R Burton> Cincinnati, Ohio. 

Oregon. * M; . George T. Bush, Bellefonte, Pa. 

* Mrs. Nellie Knowiton Bell, Berkeley, 

California. _.,„ 

Miss Marjorie Bell, Kansas City, Mo. Mis. Elizabeth H. B. Calloway, Be.,e- 
Mr. A. Bentley, Toledo, Ohio. fonte, Pa. 

Mr and Mrs. J. Berwin, Boston, Mass. Mrs. S. P. Calloway, La Grange, Ga. 
Dr.* C. F. Bingaman, Pittsburg. Pa. Mr. and Mrs. W. E. Campbell, Kansas 
Miss Marion E. Bingaman, Pittsburg. City, Mo. 

Mrs. E. L. Bierbower, Omaha, Neb. * Mr. and Mrs. J. L. Carman, Tacoma. 

* Mi^s ' Margaret E. BiggS, Pittsburg. Mr. Joseph L. Carman, Jr., Tacoma. 
Mrs. Harriet E. Biggs, "Pittsburg, Pa. Mrs. Florence R. Carpenter, philadel- 
Mrs. C E. Bigeiow, Chicago, 111. Phia, Pa. 

* Miss Louise H. Billings, Boston, Mass. Mrs. John F. Carter, Fort Dodge, la. 
Rev Geo. H. Bird, Chicago, 111. * Mr. C. H. Case, Hartford. Conn. 

* Mrs. Iona S. Bickerton, Portland, Ore. Mr. and Mrs. Walter S. Cash, New 
Mr. and Mrs. Willis L. Black, G^i", 111. Yor'A. 

Mr. Lyman F. Black, Elgin, 111. * Mr. E. K. Chapman, Roxbury, Mass. 



184 

iJ£ 8 muJ*?*!^ Chapman, Denver. * Mr. W. J. Dobson, Calgary, Alberta. 

Mrs. Edith L Charlton. Denver. * Miss R. Drake, Portland, Ore. 

Mr. Charles S. Chase, Detroit, Mich. * Mr. F. Drake, Portland Ore 
Mr. and Mrs. John C. Cheney, Fort Miss Cassie Du B ois, Tioga Centre 
Dodge, Iowa. New York> 

* Mr W. A. ChiHd, Hamilton, Ontario. Mrs. Jane B. Du v ai, New York. 
Mr. Hannibal Choate, Winona, Minn. Miss E. P. Dye, Pittsburg Pa 
Miss Caroline Choate, Winona, Minn. 

Miss Clancey, Tacoma, wash. 

Mr. and Mrs. Charles D Clark Mrs> W - H - Eastwood, Binghamton, 
Peoria, nj. New York 

* Miss Marie V. Clark, Peoria, 111. Mr - and Mrs - E - W. Edwards, Cincin- 
Mr. Richard F. Clark, Peoria, ill. nati > ° hio - 

M|lss Maude H. Cleveland, Walpole, M!t '• John F - Elliott, Cincinnati, Ohio. 

Mass. ' Miss Catherine Englehardt, Oakland, Cal. 

Mr. Walter H. Cleveland, Walpole. Mrs * Alfred Eoff, Boise, Idaho. 

Mrs. William G. Cooke, Brooklyn. ' Senator Charles J. A. Ericson, Boone, 

* Miss Helen F. Cole, sa n Francisco. Iowa. 

Mrs. John F. Cole, San Francisco. Mr - and Mrs - Edwin O. Es,helby, Cin- 

Miss Nell H. Cole, San Francisco, cinnati, Ohio. 

Mrs. A. A. Cole, Washington, D.' C. Miss IsaDel Sara Eshelby, Cincinnati. 
Mrs. Louise O. Coolidge, Norwalk. Mr - James Eshelby, Cincinnati. 

Conn. ' Mrs. Emma G- Eustace, Rockford, 111. 

Mrs. Minerva H. Cooper, Waliterton, * Miss Evelyn Evans, Lansdale, Pa. 

Ontaiio. ' Mr - a nd Mrs. Floyd H. Evans, St. Paul. 

* Mr. A. E. Crane, Kalamazoo, Mich. 

* Miss Daisy B. Crandall, Chicago, jjl. M r. O. A. Fay, Athol, Mass 

Mr. and Mrs. Thomas Crary, Han- M r. and Mrs. Samuel F. Fenton, Salt 
cock, N. Y. Lake City> utah> 

Mr. George K. Croker, St Thomas. * Mrs . H , E# Ficke> D a v enport, Iowa. 

,_. ° n tario. Miss Johanna pi cke> Davenport, Iowa. 

Miss Elizabeth K, Crawford, Cincin- Mrs. Sarah B. Fisher, Binohamton, 
nati, Ohio. New York _ 

Dr. and Mrs. B. H. Griley, Dallas Cen- * Mr . E- c> Fowell, New York. 

tre, Iowa. Miss Lena Potter F 0rS ythe, Lincoln, 

* Mr. J. K. Crosswell, Sumter, S. C. Illinois. 

Mrs William A . Croysdale, Kansas * Miss Ett ' ie Fow i e r, New York, 

City, Mo. * Mr> G- A< Franklin, San Antonio. 

Mr. and Mrs. D. S. Crumb, St. -Louis, Mr . Alden Freeman, East Orange, N. J. 

* Mr. and Mrs. Warren T. Currier, Mr> and Mrs _ G> H> Fre nch, North At- 

Boston, Mass. tleboro, Mass 

Mr. William E. Curry, Winchester, Ky. Mi&s Ruth A. French, North Attleboro. 
Mr. C. F. Cutts, Carson City, Ne v . Hon. William G. Fri z ell, Dayton, Ohio. 
Mrs. Estelle G. Cujnnea, Cleveland, Ohio. 

* Miss Edith S. Cunnea, Cleveland, O. 

Mr. Jeremiah W. Curtis, New York. Mr - Charles Gahen, Los Angeles, cal. 

Mrs. Sanford Gardner, Augusta, Ga. 
Mr. and Mrs. G- W. Garrels, St. -Louis. 
Miss Henrietta E. Gerken, phiiadel- 
Mrs. Margaret Dangberg, Mlnden, JMe v . phia, Pa. 

Miss Grace Dangberg, Minden, Nev. Mrs. Jennie Christ, M. D., Ames, iowa. 

Mrs. Mattie D. Darrow, l^a Porte, Ind. * Mr. and Mrs. J. R. GUbreath, Man- 
Miss Clara I, Darr, M. D., Portland, Ore dan, North Dakota. 
Miss Katherine K. Dasheil, Washington, * Mr. Sidney M. Gladwin, Hartford, 
Miss Nellie E. Dasheil, Washington, D. C. Conn. 
Mr. and Mrs. William T. Davies, JUo s Mrs. Ellen H. Gladwin, M. D. Hartford. 

Angeles, California. Conn. 

Mrs. Frances E. De Long, TJtica, N. Y. Miss Ida V. Goodall, New York. 
Mr. and Mrs. S. C. Deaner, Woodland, Mr. and Mrs. John W. Good, Moline. 

Calif. Mr. Harry C. Good, Moline, 111. 

Mrs. Sarah L. Dorn, Cincinnati, Ohio. Miss Mary L. Goodnough, Binghamton. 
Mr. and Mrs. John D. Dorris, Hunt- Mr. S. W. Goodwin, New York. 

ingdon, Pa. Mrs. William F. Goodwin, Rochester, 

Mr. and Mrs. J. T. Donneilan, Salt New York. 

Lake City, Utah. Mr. and Mrs. Edward D. Graff, 

* Mr. W. H. Donnelly, Calgary, Alherta. Worthington, pa. 



2£r. and Mrs. Thomas Graham, Wash- Mis. IK J. S. Hodgson; Chicago,, ffltL 
ington, D. C. Mr. o*.. R. Hight, M'crris, I1L. 

Mr. and Mrs. Adam Graham, Cle-yfi- Mrs. Sarah L. H©ag„ BinghamtOK,, K". T.. 
land. Ohio.. Dr. and Mrs* W.. H, Hood,, Reno' Nev 

Miss Kffie J. Graham, Cleveland, Ohio. Dr. and Mrs,, a. J.. Hood,. Adriwjw Mfcfe- 

*Mr. Jim A. Grant, Minneapolis, Minn,. Mrs.. James Hcgle, Salt Lake City. 

Mrs. Amelia Graves, Cleveland, Ohio. Mr. and. Mrs, Charles H,. Hog\en s I 

* Miss Kva Gray, Columbus. 0W0. ton, Ohio. 

Mrs. Henry W. Gray,, Philadelphia,. Mrs, Susie A.. Hoteappie.,, sch-sriKiafiy.. 

* Miss Marie Louise Gray, Philadelphia, Mr,, and Mrs_ E_ ML Hclbroak, Chicle.. 

* Miss Katharine L. Gregg, peoria, 111.. * Mrs, Therse Horst, Day.en.pcrt, Kxwa„ 
Mr. and Mrs. W, D. Gregory,, M'inne- Mr. H. A. Hcsussr, ..Lincoln,, m . 

apolis, Minn. Mts^ Sarah B,. Howard,, Msalone,. EL. T .. 

Mr. Lawrence S, Gregory, Mmne-Mr. and. Mas. EchvarA D.. Howard. 

apolis. Minn. BU#$alai n, Y. 

Rev. Geo, h. Greenfield,. S' T- D,. Elko,.* ^x. and . Mra '' sT. JL Etowreffl, jaraotifc 
Mrs. Greenfield,, Elkt> ( Nev. ario. 

Miss Frank L. Grippea, Spokane,. y v . Henry H. H«Kt, KalamacC"., Xici . 

* MS'SS Marjorie Hubbard,. \v„ SS&stiil 



Mr. A. C. Hahn,. "Vernon, Texas, 

Mrs. Alice F. Haliaday, Buffalo,. 2?, Y 



Dr. and Mrs.. TJaeiron:. IL. Stuck Jiis, 



TiltoP AT "FT 

* Mrs. M. J. Haire, Fort Dodge, Iowa. , r ^ w " ,t, ~,~.4. ™ 
*Miss Sarah E. Hall, Honolulu T . H . "^ ' "* ^~ J ^ mato » «" 
Mr. Levi L. Hall, Lowell, Mass. w J f rseT . "JV*' - M 
Mrs. Wilhelmina HaUea Chicago. ?f' *£«* ** 2?^^?^ ' 
Miss Kate Hamerschlag, >New, York. Jf" W '*" a Jf »*»* ^?^S 2 

* Dr. and Mrs. E. D, Hammond, Wtj! 8 - S^*** ^ ^ E£ 

Lake City, Utah. **■ **** "« Haa«X, BS»0* 

Mr. Reinhold Hansen,. TVester-Uhr. 

stedt, Germany. Dr. H. A. Ijaais,. Kb®****, !$»*- 

* Mr. and Mrs. Lafayette Hanchett, Mr,. WSUiaia. K 3.'.t:cl',!, iH''£'U\ 

Salt Lake City, 
Miss Helen F. Hanchett, gait Lake „_ «. 

City Mrs. Harufet StotlcB 

Miss Olive I. Harris, EPSton,. Mass. . C-a " M ^. _ 

* Miss Hazel M. Hartman, Coopers- *«. Btoiaa 3ML £«&&** Tx^La.-.T-. 

town, N. D. ' il,e « N - T " 

Mrs. Ella Knowaes H askel>. Butte, Hon. ^ I3ss . »*<** m Sent*** Sasewe:... 
Mr. W. Jones Hatches, Augusta, Ga... Tills,, N„ Y.. 

Mr. Weldon H. Hateher, Augusta, Ga, ^ r - *"«* • l '^™>. ^**** »« 
Mr. Lucien V, Hatcher, Augusta, Qa,. New jsere-e*,-. 

Mr. Milton Birke Hatcher, Agusta Ga. * ^ 5s5 3ya '^ A - "J?* 3 * 5B9 

Mr. Lawience Hawiey, Berlin, Wis.. * Mr - Wfil&aa A. J, ret, C**«ges U. 

Mr. w. M. JiVyner, Dayton, Ohio, *«*» ^ lULa ^ ■- ^ fflas - te3 > ^ te ^.. 

Dr. Lola L. Plays, Moline, 111. * MIs» Corn«l*a Jon«s» I ■. ^" 

Mrs. Mary ft Hazelton, San Jose, Cat. ^ L L - Jo ^ a ' ^ 

* Mrs Vtedfcrldk W, Herring, Waser-Mr, and' Mrs. Eao* SL JaonifcS 

town, K. Y. " oa " ■"■«- 

Mr. Theodore S. Kelb, York, Pi, 

Mr. Julius C, Helb, York, Pa, * jj^. g» -^ i'iie^r, Itetf CTcti'?;, 3SBBS\. 

Mrs. WiLliam D. Heebner, Lansdare, j^ 1SieQd6»r« ;s;.itstte ie r, CMfeSBj^, 
Miss Grace Heebner, Lonsdale, Pa.. air _ jiYito Kaxstte, 8h«*«a^aa^ Wis., 

Mr. and Mrs. Lewis J.. Heintz, Buffalo, Mrg; -, F ffi aiz^, JSTew ITesl'r. 
Mr. Raphael Harman, Detroit, Mich. jj^g H*n?iefcta Ei» JRaatffflwaisi, 
Miss Elizabeth Herriott, Oakland. ituibus Obi&a. 

Mr. Harold H» Herschber,ger> Minneap— Mrg ' ae o..' T.. Ke.i)«; ^ra :i»p-*„, * ' 

olis, Minn. 1&>g [ Ea tii»S*e K«eBea; QSntibgu 

Mrs, Carl I, Heydirick,. Franklin, J», Mrs jrjank KeHfiee*. BfiBW ISaiSr- 
Mr. James F. Higgins, Athal, Mass. * Miss 22arv F. ES0«^g; iSBeaa 

Miss Ida Leigh Hilton, Sav&n n &h, G^m^s H' E. K«^':i:, KaesaSsv, W 
Re v . Herbert C. Hinds, Ph.D, Sch- Mfeg ^ MBerta K«Besv. HWW EB»WB3Bt 

enectady, N. Y. Ctou ,. 

Mrs. Hinds, Schenectady, N. Y - . Mrs ivaiter SL K330er„ Zteyraav OB£te. 

Mr. Clarence P, Hippely, Bellevrae, jjj^ jBaa^t 15. K*3a*3a, ^« r «- T«*. 

Pennsylvania, » ^^^ Wia&st 3L 3K33Ki. 3B»&aaES. SflL 



Master Wi'liam King, Rockford, 111. Rc v. James H. McCarthy, Holly, x. Y. 

Mr. William F. King, Mt. Vernon, la. Mr. Fred M. McGonigal, Cleveland, O. 

* Mrs. Lizzie Moulton Kneejand, Olii- Mv. and Mrs. George McDujffee Roeh- 

cago, 111. ester, X. II. 

* Mr. and Mrs. George Proctor Knott, Miss Lida McKeighan, Omaha, Neb. 

Springfield, Mass. Mr. B. S. McLure, wheeling, W. va. 

Mass Rose Konop, state Centre, ia. Miss Elenor McLure, Wheeling, w. Va. 

Mr. and Mrs. Charles H. KOster, Mr. and Mrs. James R. Mellon, Pitts- 

Brooklyn, N. Y. burg, Pa. 

Mrs. Frank J. Kuhnmuench, Mill- Mr - and Mrs. Chris Merlau, Roches- 

waukee, Wis. ter, x. Y. 

Mrs. Louise O. Miller, Franklin, pa. 

, ,„. „ T T „ T Mrs. Xora B. Miller, Dadeville, Ala. 

r -.f n f ^ rs - Wllham H - Lane ' West * Mr. and Mrs. Edward D. Miller, gait 
M-dford Mass. Lake c - t 

Mr. and Mrs. Douglas J. Landers, * Migs Maud A< Mmer> ^ Lafce city> 

Springfield, Mo. Mr _ apd Mrs _ E _ F> Michael, La poire, 

Miss Mary Lawton, Washington. lml 

Mr. and Mrs. Harold Lamb, Union, Misg Kathryn Michael, La Porte, tod. 

Point, Ga. : , ^ is; . E; enor m. Moorehead, Zanes- 

Mrs. Jessie M. Lamb, Cohoes, X. Y. viUe ohio 

Mrs. Thomas Langford, Eureka, Cal. Mrs _ D ' fcW itt'c. Tanyer, Spring Lake 

* Mr Thomas L. Langford, Eureka, cal. Beacl N> j (Nee M ooney.) 
Miss Marie C. Larson, Oak Park, HI. Mr _ John B Mooney Lan g don N . D . 
Miss S. R. Lawton, XeW York. Mrs William H _ Mose iey, Xew Haven, 

* Mr. and Mrs. Frank Moore Lee, Reno. Conn 

* Miss Marjorie Lee, Reno, Xe v . j^ Pannie c Moffatt, Rockford, 111. 
Mr. Jehu E. Lederer, Baltimore, Mi Misg EIizabeth A . Moon, Bin ghamton, 
Mrs. Sol W. Levi, Cincinnati, Ohio. Xew Yu 

Miss Julia Levy, Kansas City, Mo. Miss Carrie' ' E. Moon, Binghamton. 

Dr. ami Mrs. John A. L«w 1S> Reno. Dr H w< Mo0re> Santa B arbara, Cal. 

Dr. Blwiu-,1 G. Link, Rochester, X. Y. Mr> and Mrg _ c j Morgan# Cleveland. 
Mr and Mrs. CwrJimtft Linkroum, Mrg LotUe E _ M o rris , Binghamton. 

Hackenssac*, is. J. Mr Charles Morris, Dallas Centre, 

Mr. Lrtmund G. Linton, Worthington, i wa 

Pennsylvania. * Miss Edith M- Moulton, San Fran- 

Miss Alice W. Litton, St. .Louis, Mo. cisco Calif 

* Mr. and Mrs. Fred E. Lo v elle, Mil- Mr _ and ' Mrs _ Albert Murdoch) Boston. 

waukee, Wis. * Mdsg Kat i iarme Murdoch, Pittsburg. 

Mr. and Mrs. Frank J. LOrd, Denver. Katharine Murray, Ellensburg, 

Miss Mary C. Long, Philadelphia, Pa. Wash 

Mrs. Agnes M. Lowrie, Bloomington, 111. 
Mr. D. M. Lyle, Glen Elder, Kans. 

Mrs. John B. Xeil, Columbus, Ohio. 

Mrs. J. Martyn Xeifert, Old Fort Com- 

* Mr. and Mrs. Charles J. B. Malarkey, fort Va _ 

Portland, Ore. * Mr _ ' and Mrs. Thomas P. Nelson, 

Mr. G. H. E. Manning, Nashua, X. H. Teoria, 111. 

Mrs. B. F. Martin, Columbus, Ohio. Ml . William A Xelson, Ansonia, Conn. 

Mr. and Mrs. Charles M. M'athews, M ,. & _ Rose NeU nert, Los Angeles. 

Xew Haven, Conn. Mr and Mrs Clinton C. Xichols, Wil- 

M.v. and Mrs. W. G. Maxey, Oshkosh, mington, Ohio. 

Wis- Mr. and Mrs. Guy Xorman, and Maid, 

Mr. Alva Mayne, Livingston, Mont. ' xewiport R. I. 

Mr. and Mrs. William McBride, Win- MJSri Hope xorman, Xewport, BR. I. 

nipeg, Man. Mr. and Mis. F. O. Xorton, Reno. 

Mrs. William R. McKey, Brookline, „ M[r TQm B Norton> New Orleans. 

Mass. 
Mrs. Lillian McCormick, Danville, pa. 

Mr Henry MfcKay, M'orden, Man. Miss Clara F. Olds, Tacoma, Wash. 

Dr. W H. Myers, U. S. A. Wash. D. C, Mr. J. L. Oliver, palisades, Cal. 
Mr. and Mrs. Milton A. McRae, Detroit, Mr. and Mrs F. L. Olmstead, San 

Mich Mateo, Calif. 

Miss Helen Victoria, McRae, Detroit. Miss L v ely n T. Olmstead, San Mat e o. 
Miss Marie Evelyn McRae, Detroit. Mr. and Mrs. C H. O'Neil, Mllwau- 
MVs. A. H. McAnulty, H a gerstow n , Md. kee, Wis. 



187 

Mrs. Leander L. Ormsby, Boise, Idaho, *Mr. Frantz F. Puterbaugh, Chicago. 

* Miss Margaret Ormsby, Boise, Idaho. 

Mr Jared H. Orr. Michigan City. Ind. m « _ , ■ 

SSk Tl. Osborne, Jr., La Porte, ind. Mr " Geor « e ^ Q ua *e. Cleveland, Ohio. 
Mrs. F. L. Oswald, Salt Lake City. 

Miss Hazel E Oswald, Salt Lake City. Mr. Philip w. Raber, Chicago, IU. 

* Dr. Preston Rambo, Marietta, Ga. 

Miss Elia Parker, Princeton, 111. ?P S M * ry M E " *£?«• * enti * l *> N - Y - 

Miss ISmma Parker, Princeton, 111. ^ nSe^lo * Raym ° nd ' 

Dr. and Mrs. F. J. Patera, Chicago j ' ' Buffalo, N. Y 

Miss Laura E. Patterson, Philadelphia. Mr D Redwo ' od Magnolla ^a. 

* Miss Jenme M. Payne, Flint Mich , Mr and M A Khoades, 
Mr. and Mrs. Henry M. Parchen, ^^ Wash 

„• Vx*?' ™ °£ u „ , ™„ * * Dr - and Mrs - William C. Richardson, 

Miss Adele M. Parchen, Helena, Mont. Tampa Fla 

* !£• A ^ e ff ?• ^ ar u Che ^ H ! 1 , ena ' ^° nt - * Dr. John Riordon, East Rutherford, 

* Miss Edith L ParKs, Brookline, Mass. ' ' 

Mrs. Sarah L. Patterson, Denver, Col. Mr /^ M * s Windsor V. Rice, Salt 
Rev. Chas. G. Patterson, San Ansel- Lake Citv Utah 

.. m ?,'r.^ a1 ' . ™. ^ . Master Gordon Rice, Salt Lake o-.y. 

Mrs. William Patterson, Ottawa, Ont. Misg Isabelle Ri galt Lakfi ct 

Mr. Frank H. Patterson, New York. Migg Mar uerite E lRice Salt Lake 

Miss Anne H. Patterson, New York. oit 

Mrs. Anna D. Patrick, Los Angeles. M ' g Richardson Chicago. 

Mr. K. H. Paul, Dallas Centre, iowa. Mrg Katherine Rieck ' elmanf cincin- 

Miss Viola Pearce, Marquette, Mich. na( .. 0h . Q 

Mr. and Mrs. L. Peake, Rockford ill. ^ ^ Kieckle Cincinnati. 

Mrs. William E Pearl, New York. , Miss M ROD inson, Springfield, 

Miss -Klsie Pearl, New York. Illinois 

Mr. and Mrs. Joseph C. Peers, Rock- Kdward R L0 ckPort , 

ford ' lih New York 

Prof, and Mrs. H. M. Perkins, Dela- M; . ( , eorge A Robbins> CMcag0i m> 

wlare, Ohio. M Margaret Emery Robinson, Chi- 

* Prof. G. H. Perkins, Ph.D. Burling- ° •" 

,. cago, in. 

ton, vi. M Henry B. Rogers, New Canaan, 

Mrs. Seely Perry, Rockford, 111. * 

Miss Lucretia G. Perry, Bingnamton , . „ r n " , _ ,, t> «*„.--,, A nri n n 
„..__,,, Mr. and Mrs. R. M. Rodgers, Adrian, 

New York. 

- Mr. and Mrs. Frank Pearson, urn- Rohlfing, M. D. Colorado 

capo, IU. " °' 

^ iSS xx An xf ^T ^ t 011 -^, h Mr. Frederick L. RohlfW, Colorado 

Mr. H. N. Peck, Detroit, Mich. ^ o' 

Mrs. James G. Penn, Danville, Va. Ul J*« Col °- _..-.„ _„, „,. „., 

Mr. Geo. W. Percy, Rochester. <N. Y. ^^TnvTfi^^rS'-? 
Mr. andMrs. Thomas Petherbridge, Pe. **• Fred M. Rood Rochester, NY 

.... ' Mrs. George W. Roosevelt, Washing- 

oria, 111. ° 

Dr Marv E. Phelps, Canon City, Colo. ton ' D - C. 

Kev. John W. Phillips, D. D., Bingham- M.- and Mrs. George D. Roper, Rock- 

ton N Y ford - in - 

Mr. Thomas 'l. Philips, Wlncnester, Mr and Mrs. E. G. Robichaux, Thibo- 

TCentuckv daux ' La - 

- Miss Elizabeth G. Pom e ro y , los * Miss Edith Robinson, Louisville. Ky. 

Angeles Cal Mr - an<1 Mrs - Arch M * Robmson - ■ Lou - 

MF - Set Cauf ^ E - P ° St ' U ° S A " Maste^AlfS Robichaux. Thibodaux. 

* Miss Carrie A. Post, Los Angeles. Mrs. M. A Robinson. Mobile Ala. 

* Mr. and Mrs. w. F. Powell, Clearfield, Miss Kate E. Robinson Mobile. Ala 

Pennsylvania c °l- F - K - bobbins. Wellington, Kans.- 

reun^ivau . Morton B Rosenbaum, 

Mr. and Mrs. W. F. Porter, La porte. "• ana mr f- ^ orlon a. ■*■ 
Miss Emma R. Porter, La Porte, ind. Richmond va p .. nnd 

Miss Sue W. Poullain, Augusta, Ga. * Miss Irma B^ Rosenb a Richmond 

* Mr. and Mrs. L. M. PrPnce. Cincin- * Miss Mary Elizabeth Root. Benning- 

Mrs n Anna h Gray Purcell, Chicago. Mrs! °Wiu!am ^'J^cL^T^ 

Mrs. W. Puterbaugh, Chicago. 111. Mr. Howard L. Rust, T aco m a, Wash. 



WOm KEjsnspSESt HStajftiJ, .eh'at&aaE'OOga. sillon, Ohio. 

* jSBEiss. j£ifsato" JUL .Satterlee*. Tacoma. Mr. T. A- Snider„ Cincinnati, .Qlii<j„ 
Mitfflaar .tfjes&ar CL iSsifcerle^, 2Jaesma. Mr. and Mrs. JE. B. Solomon, Dayto^, 
MdJi. M.. iSL. mEL sSajse, vC&iea»!C|j„ JUL 'Ohio. 

iKs-„ aao£ iMks. MjUiazsL Mi <S%ag, >Wy&- * Mr. g. K. Solomon, .Atlanta, Ga. 

xa^4 i5-Ji. -Mr. and Mrs. Louis E. Spratlen, Den- 

Bfe. iiraM JLK. &£. M.. -Scbame^, JOallas - ,yer„ Col©. 

CSesiBte^, igassa. Mrs. Margaret A. Spalding, Sioux City, 

JWSsi utSaiocge .&anae£fea^, „S.t. .i^ouis. .Mo. Iowa. 

Mils iifej^ii-Qta Jsk&aefi&er,,, .St. Jjauis s Mo..MLss Sarah jee. Spalsfourry, .Santa Cruz, 
iMLsa iLtaiiiis, jE. .S^naef^er, JJayton, CaL 

dSMffl. Mr. William Speide\, SPringdale, Pa. 

fflSaai Jwstx Jschbeper* JPfikis?, Hi. .Miss Helena E. Spraker, Brooklyn. 

mfifit «iCaffiSiffl&to, J-^nise -Sciaa^er; JSing- • Mies -Nellie Spears, Lansdale, Pa. . 

itoimtKin, iflt 3B- Dr. A. _H. vSplcer, Westerly, .a. I. 

* SSte. *L ««. jSeiatoeaaB^, X»s Angeles. Mr. an ci Mrs. James D. Spalding, .Sioux 
Jakes. Owaflsiiaa ^fclossfceizj. -Sit. i^onis. City, Iowa. 

.Sfc. iK, JiSdWBauBfi «SScbffl&£]4, Winnipeg. Miss Elizabeth Stevenson, Pittsfourg. 
Ssfc swl ilfcfcs. J:. iSatuuffli oCi*o^:<«. Mr. and Mrs. .A. H. S.tange, Merrily 

-L,'.'.£li jjSchiMii^, ■Claijoa.gq, III. Wisconsin. 

fie ^Kfiffi JfE. jS«4«sj«i £5We%gq, Hi. Mr. Charles F. Stanton, .New .London, 

* M M. -Sshauaa, -Fact JEJa4 a g i e* 'Conn. 

ji'iocss. * Mr. and Mrs. William JD, Steele, Se- 

-■' Weu 423smjm J.. &:.&t% : .Barker skurg,. dalia, Mo. 

■ : mzgijkfa. .Master William £>.. Steele, Jr,, Sedalia. 

Mz asm Mris. ^Macsis AcJzw&fc^her,, CM- Miss Florence E. Steffey, Philadelphia. 

p :_.•«, -iU, Mr., and Mrs. Henry J.. Stephens, Den- 

Wk,i $&®bB2ila S^tawusijfc jaasfcous. Mass. .yer, Colo. 

awia JfcMi. JL &■ dSca££, .Portland,,, Ore. * Mr. Harold H, Stephens, Bender, 
'Me.. m&& Ms&„ msul -A. -S.ch8t4„ Salt Mtejfca. C. N. Stephens, St. L<ouis, M». 

<£££S, OffiaJft .Mrs. William Shaw Stewart, Philadel- 

Btea, JL, i&, aBfesafcmwaas, iL<Rffl .AKg«?,iea. jihia. Pa. 

i&itec. '&saesk. Si .Si&'mam:,, &r£ XXadge, la.* Miss jjcrothy NewMrk Stewart, phil- 
mc mM JfeS. JdL -E. SBa^ffie!:,,, x»ayten., adelphia,, pa. 

(QuaMt .Me. .and Mrs. C. Z. Stodder, Boston, Mass 

fife, >£m&Wii}& 5L. SPa-% -F'Mt .cadaster,, j^^ j_ w amer gturdevant, Cragsmoor, 

Msmt i'actn Mew York. 

ms&. Cte&as a .SStos&ffica^ ^saasNion Midi. Mr ^ aEd M r£. Edward X>. Stakes, 
'■" Mr.. M. J&Mm, J&tsaJifiaq, H<?3«h£OED. M'ch Mt> Holly, K. J. 
Afcs:. 42a»aa M. £&&nai&a-£ibii(Ui, Castle- BeK _ Erancis Sullivan, M. R., Alhion, 

jtwaa^, pt. .Mew| E"orkL 

a^i^j US&Eiaieaaa -A.. Skonu, 'Casiietoii. j^^ ^33^^ Sutherland, IvEontreal^ Que. 
pi,-r_ tok, iC, -Sfcuj^., .MiKSeap^ii^. -Minn. Mr. and Mrs. Jalua J. Svohoda, Chica- 
afc >L~tei3:a6sK BlU2sariJi, ;) ^4baSJmi»e, piiila- ^ aL 

.i^iiipia^,, 33a. ©r. .and Mrs. .Sosooe Wesley Swan, 

SZz. wn£ Ms*. £k. JSu S&iexm&Q, Bfxst JE£u- wrorchester Mass. 

fflRct;, jKSri^ Mc. .Artter H. Symons, Mew York. 

Msas ^' a ^ W- «S%isaBS^, Saas 5^a«iGtsoa. 
BSE. aaasi afeE. K X^. ^i©^, " EraweE. 
i!iCr^ JSssHBlfi iias* JKWflK. "™^ ^ aiat - ISss ;Sle ila Tate. Tate, <3a. 

©law^tei . * Miss BUzabetli Delano Tailman, Fair- 

Bfc. X .iSto.i£ Safiftfr. D^trtSai £ms®„, CA 2 have n, Mass. 

»■ DJr. SaaraiBali & ^cfceaAaicgeB. ^utner- m ^ ^^^ Twiggs ^aylar, Augusta, G&. 

i!'..j.-«', JK. X Mrs. Edwin Terry, Brooklyn, N. Y. 

■c, a«oia«ate :E. .fifc=««, fflW«biwB«oa» ^^ ^.^ Temp j, eriB . K a, n sas City, Mc*. 

35ss«? r«?^iL. ^ * Mrs Littom Thomas, Knaxville, Tenn. 

* B6&. Jja a ■£xagt8n r SEat^sjsr®, 2?a. Mr Ben ThU(l6nL( Minneapolis, Minn. 
Mrs, AJi.ai. X. JfflBaSt8%, ffiasLespS-15^ Ohio.. :MEr .^ ^ Thoratan# MinneapeMs, Minn. 
Be. JsaA i'Kr^ ite-wML SSL Smaust*, J3es ^ CharJes w ^ Thomps0 a, New York. 

MaciiSffiS I®J«*. * Mr. Lawrence E. Tripp, .Salt Lake 

Mc. .^>t JSUBHS. ix!* EL a«W*sr. Massil- ^^ m ^ 

■km, &rsm. Or, ,. an , a Mrs. :E. A. TripP, Salt Lake 

• 21E« paMffi A. ^aydec, aBMBUion w. ^^^ ^ d Mr& charies T . re maln, »f 

Mia aaat Mirs.. -Ctortes «. Sn?te, -Mas- .j^ &w \ Yor j c , 



* Prof, and Mrs. Thomas C. Trueblood, 

.Ann Arbor, Mich. 

Judge and Mrs. Bartlett Tripp, yank- 
ton, S. D. 

Mrs. Clementine L. Trorlicht, St. 

Louis, Mo. 

* Miss Lillie Trorlicht, St. Louis, Mo. 

* Miss Clementine Trorlicht, St. Louis. 
Mr. E. P. Twohy, Spokane, Wash. 

* Mrs. Harriet D. Tupper, Lestershire, 

New York. 

Dr. and Mrs. Harlan P. UsticK, Boise, 

Idaho. 
Mrs. Jessie H. Utsey, Mexico City, 

Mexico. 

* Rev. Thomas A. Uzzell, Denver, Colo. 

* Dr. and Mrs. G. A Van Wagenen, 
Newark, N. J. 

* Dr. and Mrs. Edwin H. Van Patten, 

Dayton, Wash. 

* Mr. and Mrs. E. Villars, Carthage, 

New York. 

Mrs. Guy B. Waite, Whitestone, L. L 
Miss Gladys d&. Waite, Whitestone, L. I. 
Mrs. C. L. Watermann, New York. 
Miss Mary E. Wait, Evanston, IU. 
Dr. J. E. Walker. Hornell, N. Y. 
Mr. John H. Waddeli, Santa Cru z , Cal. 

* Miss Annie Wallace, Rochester, N. H. 
Mr. and Mrs. Emil A waltenberger, 

Louisville, Ky. 
Miss Mita Waltenberger, Louisville. 
Mr. Fred H. Ward, Portsmouth, N. H. 

* Miss Florence M. Ward, Portsmouth. 
Mrs. Mary E^* Ware, White Castle, L.a. 
Mr. David B. Watson, Pittsburg, Pa. 
Mrs. Philomena Wehag-e, Cincinnati, O. 
Miss Frarices Wehage, Cincinnati, Ohio. 
Miss Marie F. Webb, Mobile, Ala. 

Mr S. A. Weber, RocKyiUe Centre, 
Long Island. 

Mr. F. I. Webster, Turners Falls, Mass. 

Miss Margaret G. Weed, Jacksonville, 
Florida. 

Mr. W. E. Weed, Cincinnati, Ohio. 

Miss Sarah Weed, Flushing, L. I. 

Mr. and Mrs. F. H. Wellcome, Minne- 
apolis, Minn. 

* Miss Su>san A. Wentworth, Boston. 
Mr. Louis A. Weisse, Sheboygan 

Falls, Wis. 



Mr. Henry K. Werner, Allegheny, pa. 
Mrs. Pauline K. West, Binghamton, 
New York. 

* Mr. Alonzo A. West, Maiden, Mass. 

* Mr. and Mrs. William Webb Wheeler, 

St. Joseph, Mo. 
Mr. R. H. White, Mt. Sterling, Ky. 
Mr. and Mrs. W. H. Whyte, New York. 

* Mr. and Mrs. Amos O. White, Fre- 

mont, Mich.- 
*Mr. Hart W. Whitmore, La Porte, Ind. 
Miss Mary E. Wilcox, PainesviHe, Ohio. 
Mr. and Mrs. D. D. Williams, Boise, 

Idaho. 
Mrs. Charles W. Wildings Malone, 

New York. 

* Mr. and Mrs. W. H. Willey, Los 

Angeles, Calif. 

Mr. Dana Wiley, Los Angeles, Calif. 

Mrs. William H. Wilkinson, Bingham- 
ton, New York. 

Mi. and Mrs. G. A. Wilson, Chautau- 
qua, New York. 

Mr. T. J. Wisecarver, Pittsburg, pa. 

* Mr. Jno. T. Withers, Jersey City, N. J. 

* Mr. and Mrs. Herman H. Wiendieck, 

Reo. Bluff, Calif. 
Mr. William A. Williams. Lockport, 

New York. 
Mr. and Mrs. N. B. Winfrey, Kansas 

City Mo. 
Mr. and Mrs. George Wolters, San, 

Francisco, Calif. 
Miss Meta A Wolters, San Francisco. 

* Miss Juliane Wolters, San Francisco. 
Dr. Ruth M. Wood, Los Angeles. 

Mr. and Mrs. Henry F. Woodruff, Ames, 

Iowa. 
Mr. Warren O. Woodward, Norwalk, 

Conn. 
Mr. and Mrs. William T. Yale, 

Jamaica, N. Y. 

* Mr. and Mrs. F. S. Yale, Jamaica. 
Miss Polly Burr Young, Liberty, N. Y. 
Miss Louise P. Young, Liberty, N. Y. 
Mrs. J. H. Younger, Santa Cru z , Calif. 
James Carlton Young; L. H. D. F. R. 

G. S., Minneapolis, Minn. 
Mrs. Young, Minneapolis, Minn. 

Mr. Edward Zeisz, Covington, Ky. 



190 



A summary by states 
homes of the tourists, on 

Ohio 

Xew York 

Pennsylvania 

Missouri 

Utah 

Colorado 

Minnesota 

Nevada 

Connecticut 

Ne-v Jersey 

Indiana 

Oregon 

Virginia 

Ontario, Can., 

Louisiana, 

Rhode island 

Alabama 

V ermont 

Tennesee 

Maryland 

Alberta, Can. 

South Carolina 

Quebec, Can. 

Germany 



and 

the 
63 
97 
51 
31 
30 

21 
16 

15 

12 

11 

10 



countries 
Cruise. 



SUMMARY. 
snows the diversified nature of the 



Illinois 

California 

Massachusetts 

Iowa 

Michigan 

Georgia 

Washington 

Wisconsin 

Kentucky 

New Hampshire 

Washington, D. C. 

Idaho 

North Dakota 

Montana 

Nebraska 

West Virginia 

Manitoba, Can. 

Florida 

Kansas 

South Dakota 

Texas 

Honolulu, T. H. 

Mexico 



74 
55 
36 
32 
23 

17 

16 

13 

11 

11 
9 

I 
7 
6 
5 
5 
4 
3 
2 
2 











Reprint from New York Dramatic Mirror of January 8, 1910 




GEORGE TOME BUSH 



George Tome Bush, pic- 
tured above, was born Sept. 
24, 1867, in Bellefonte, Pa.. 
his present home. His father 
was Daniel Bush, prominent 
attorney, politician and real 
estate man. George Tome 
received his education at pri- 
vate schools in different 
places, finally going to 
Swarthmore College and fin- 
ishing up in a special chemis- 
try course at the Pennsylva- 
nia State College, class of '87. 
He had to drop his chemical 
education by reason of the 
death of his father and take 
charge of the estate at home, 
which he has been doing ever 
since. Mr. Bush took a great 
deal of interest in athletics, playing on the football teams for 
many years, both while in and after leaving college, and has 
since showed his continued interest by refereeing football games 
and officiating at many athletic contests of many kinds. He 
is one of the official referees of the Intercollegiate Football 
Association. He is a thirty-second degree Mason and a Knight 
Templar, being a member of the Grand Commandery of Penn- 
sylvania, having held several minor offices in that body. He 
is also a life member of the Sons of the Revolution, and was 
National Delegate of the League of American Wheelmen for 
twenty years, a member of the Nobles of the Mystic Shrine, a 
member of the American Philatelic Society, correspondent for 
many years of the leading city dailies, and has held numerous 
offices in many other societies and organizations. Mr. Bush 
has traveled considerably over the United States and Canada, 
and also toured through Europe, and at present is on a tour 
around the world, expecting to be gone about six months. He 
is now representing The Dramatic Mirror for the twenty-first 
year, having first qualified as correspondent in 1890. He is a 
keen dramatic critic, analyzing both the plays and the players, 
and criticises plays for the local papers. 



ocr ?f jpn 



MAP OF A TOUR OF THE WORLD 



mm 



*££av 




&NFRANCIXD 
x LOS *Jt 
\NOELEfr 



Made by George T. Bush, Bellefonte, Pa., beginning January 15, and ending July 25, 1910. Three months were 
on the "Cleveland" from San Francisco to Cairo, Egypt. 



One copy del. to Cat. Div. 



OCT 21 l»l|'*1 



